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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My non-OEM front pads squeal too; usually it quits after warming up. Are yours Nissan brake pads?

    The rotting hose is another issue that I've seen pop up now and then. Cheap fix if you know what to look for.

    Steve
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  • michaellowreymichaellowrey Member Posts: 5
    I am having a odd problem. I bought a New 2001 quest SE and had the dealer install a nissan classII tow hitch. recently I tried to use it and found no power is in the hitch wiring. I followed it back and it is not connected to anything. The deal order a part and I brought it in today. This part will not hook up to my wiring and the dealer is being told by nissan that my Van has a special handling package that they do not recomend towing with so the factory does not wire for a tow hitch.

    The broucher has no mention of this and list the hitch as an option. and the manufacture sticker from my van mentions noght about an optional handling pakage and list 3500 max towing capacity....Just wanted to know if anyone else has run into anything like this? I plan on call my lawyer if they can't get this resolved...Mike
  • jcorkjcork Member Posts: 3
    No, they are not Nissan pads. I try not to buy anything from the dealer. I got them at Autozone, they are lifetime warranteed. I don't know if they are semi metallic or not, but I don't think they are.

    The new rotor also came from Autozone. I took great care to clean the rotor surface during installation with new pads. I think within 1000 miles, it was warped again. One thing I did not do was torque the wheel bolts. I have a calibrated elbow and it never crossed my mind. After reading here, I think that may be my problem as I have alloy wheels.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, I went to the dealer specifically to get OEM pads, because a Nissan tech in MD (and a former TH host) said that they were worth the extra $$$ (no squealing).

    Naturally the dealer was out of parts that day and substituted an unknown aftermarket pad without informing me beforehand. And they squeal.

    I'm gonna squeal when I take it in for my 60k checkup :-)

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    There is nothing I know of that would prohibit towing with your van. It might just be that dealer doesn't know how the wiring hooks up on the SE. The trailer wiring harness is different than the GLE. A call to Nissan customer service may be in order here. There should be a number in the owner's manual.

    I know there is a connector inside the right rear plastic trim panel on mine (inside the cargo area) that looks like it may be the connector used for trailer wiring. You may want to have them pull this panel and look.

    Regardless, wiring for trailer lights is not rocket science. If your dealer can't figure it out, you might want to take it to a place that installs hitches. They will have much more experience with this, and should be able to figure it out.

    Dave
  • wg45678wg45678 Member Posts: 55
    If you got Autozone pads -- and they're squealing, I'd get them out as soon as possible. I made the mistake of buying the previous set from Autozone. When they started squealing, it turned out the reason was the passenger side outside pad had disintegrated and the metal backing plate was rubbing on the rotor.

    My father-in-law had the same problem with a set of Autozone pads, on a Chrysler minivan, same wheel and pad. I'd guess they can't take heat.

    Currently I've Cardon pads (and new calipers as well since the van has 95k miles on it), and they don't squeal at all. Two different samples, two different cars, same problem. I'll never buy their brandname pads again.
  • gdavid1gdavid1 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone here figured out a good way to change the regular air filter (not cabin filter) on their Quest? Seems like it's pretty difficult to get in there.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think the trick is to make sure you unlatch all the clamps. There's a couple along the bottom that are hard to find. (4 clamps total, iirc). Then spread the filter box apart enough to get the new filter seated snugly before you clamp it back together.

    This seems to work ok on my '99 GXE and I suspect the earlier and later models are similar.

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    It also helps to remove one end of the rubber boot that connects the air box to the throttle body. Just unscrew the hose clamp at one end, and pull off the boot. This allows you to spread apart the air box halves much easier. Disconnect the end at the throttle body, and take the opportunity to check for gunk inside, and clean it out if necessary.

    Dave
  • michaellowreymichaellowrey Member Posts: 5
    We have been looking in that area on the drivers side near the tailgate. The Manufacture had a tow hitch cable wired for the deal to pull down and place in the hitch. But if you follow the cable up the other end is behind the panel you talked about with nothing to plug it into.

    The Dealer is now looking for a 3rd party plug to wire my van as Nissan told them they do not manufacture an adapter for my van due to the handling package(I'm asuming because it's an SE). I have put a call into Nissan and am waiting for thier response....Thanks for the help
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    That doesn't make sense to me. I've got the Vill-Sport which should be equal to the SE, where the "handling package" is simply the suspension/tire-wheel and has nothing to do with at least the tow wiring.
    In fact, the EVTM has a schematic. From what I can comprehend, the trailer wiring/connector mates to the car C363 connector (under the plastic trim?). It then continues to route to the rear DS and connects to a C345 connector (I assume access is from the rear DS louvered panel.
    Weird your dealer isn't knowledgeable on this. Maybe take it to the Linc-Merc shop?
    Good luck.
  • cookie22cookie22 Member Posts: 73
    My Villager goes in the shop in the morning for the second time ( not counting the originals) for sway bar repairs. With only 35000 mi. I'm wondering if any one else is having this problem?? Also while it is in they are replacing the leather seat on the drivers side for exsessive wear.
  • charles15charles15 Member Posts: 57
    I have a 99 Quest with 46K and have done nothing to it except change the oil regularly and brake pads at 30K. I see very few maintenance requirments in the manual - I see nothing on transmission flush and the plugs are good for 100k.

    Recently I received an offer from Royal warranty to give me a pretty comprehensive extended warranty thru 100k for about $900 dollars. Anyone know anything about this company? Do you think an extended warranty is necessary on this vehicle? Seems to have a pretty good record of reliability.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My '99 should hit 60k this year. I'm gonna gamble and not spring for an extended warranty. (I also buy the occasional Powerball ticket, and haven't been lucky there either). Do a board search for "warranty" for other discussions if you want to dig deep. Edmunds also refers buyers to Warrantybynet (linked from the Ownership page).

    btw, check out The Edmunds Maintenance Guide for "Service Schedules & Recalls for Your Car". (5 recalls and 22 TSB's listed for my '99 GXE). It also tells me what I should pay in my area for my 60k check-up and what Nissan recommends should be done.

    Steve
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  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    I'm posting now as another Quest owner, not as a host. Okay? And just want to report that at 32k, the dealer is replacing a knock sensor on my 99 SE Quest. For the last month, I've been experiencing an intermittent rough idle. The dealer had already tried a couple things per tsb, such as cleaning the fuel injectors and the throttle body.

    They were ready to give up on it, because it's quite a minor issue; the vehicle is still running fairly well. But I asked a Nissan mechanic I know to do a more thorough examination. This is when they noticed that knock sensor registered as malfunctioning on the computer consult.

    They've ordered the parts, and are going to replace it next week. Hopefully this is related to the rough idle, and will resolve the issue. I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, has anyone else had a similar problem with either a rough idle or knock sensor malfuntion?

    I should mention that this malfunction did not trigger the check engine light, even though it did register as malfuntioning on the computer consult. I was told by the mechanic that their manual even states that a knock sensor malfunction will not trigger the check engine light. Just thought you oughta know about this, especially since there are no tsb's out on this. Hope this is helpful.

    (formerly pocahontas)

    Revka
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  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Hi..
    i am looking at 2 used villagers and wanted some advice in picking up right one..
    one is 93 LS with 73K miles on it and the other one is 95 GS with 96K miles on it.. is it better to go for newer car or one with less mileage.??? villager owners, any reply is appreciated.. Steve??
    i read here that 93 villager had quite a few recalls on it, also there's a problem of crankshaft breaking, so is it better to go for 95 villager even though it has more miles on it?
  • charles15charles15 Member Posts: 57
    Recently paid a dealer $72 for a set of brake pads plus installation. Is there a comparable pad in the aftermarket that anyone would recommend? Also, who makes the best maintenance and repair manual for the 99Quest that will cover DIY pad replacement?

    Charlie
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    From what I have heard, you are best off using the Nissan brake pads. I have heard of others having stopping and wear problems with other aftermarket manufacturers.

    Dave
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    Instead of tapping from the underdash fusebox, I would rather run a 14ga. wire directly from the battery to the cabin.
    Anybody find an easy way through the firewall (preferably on the driver's side)?
    Thanks.
  • sam7068sam7068 Member Posts: 28
    Steve,

    Why in the world you guys left out Nissan Quest from your 2001 minivan review? Just because its discontinued model doesn't mean it shouldn't get its fair shake!! All the prices were way above the 21K that I paid for my 2001 GXE and yet it has most of the features that others have for way less of the price, along with the best base warranty and good reliability...Even Montana and Mazda were lauded as good minivan yet Quest wasn't even mentioned.....Did you guys got some free vacation or something from the other big boys...I know Honda throws off some lavish party for the media folks and family!!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Guess the Quest is off the radar now that it's going to be replaced in a few months (years?).

    "Editorial employees are required to refuse any offers that could be perceived or interpreted by the giver or create the impression that Edmunds.com's editorial staff is obligated to any company." But they can accept "normal" comps, whatever that is <wink>. Here's the policy:

    Edmunds.com's Journalistic Independence


    So the value of the Quest/Villager will have to be our little secret :-) But if I worked out of the office, maybe I'd drop the occasional box of donuts by the editorial staff now and then like I do with the folks at my local ski hill - those little bribes do work wonders.

    Steve
    Host
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  • mpereslemperesle Member Posts: 2
    Okay, we have a 99 Quest and, I kid you not, we have just had the brakes replaced for I believe it is the tenth time - yes 10th time - in just over two years. We have almost 60K miles on the van but we are only averaging 4,000-6,000 miles out of each set of brakes. We have had several cases opened with Nissan Consumer Affairs. The latest "solution" was to replace the wheel covers with the 1997 version to see if they allowed more air to circulate, thus reducing the heat and brake wear. We are so frustrated - this has added up to more money than we can even count. A couple of the brake jobs have been on Nissan but they won't even repair them under warranty anymore. We had our mechanic replace the brakes a few times and he got metallic brakes, the same used on police cars, and they lasted the longest but he got to the point where he refuses to do the brakes on the van because he says there has to be something wrong with it - he has never seen a car need brakes so frequently. When we first had the problem soon after we got the van, the dealership told us that the "wrong brakes were put on the 1999s and that they had newer brakes to accomodate the 99s". We live in So Calif so we do heavy traffic driving but this is ridiculous! Does anyone have any advice?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We don't drive in heavy traffic, but I've only needed one set of front pads so far and we're right at 58,000 miles on our '99 GXE. Sounds like something is wrong, and sounds like it's a safety issue too.

    Have you replaced the rotors and how many times? Do you brake with your left foot (maybe you ride the brake and don't realize it?).

    I'm not sure what the best way to "escalate" the issue is - maybe a lawyer? Anyone want to throw out some ideas here?

    Steve
    Host
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  • imjghimjgh Member Posts: 1
    i would like some feedback on your thoughts of a 98 gs villager with 28k. i have heard good things about the villagers/quests but with 700 posts on this forum it doesn't allow for quick information(as i need).

    i have been in and out of the market several times in the last year looking for a van, it will be our first. we have two kids, 11 and 4. i would really appreciate any advice you folks have about this van.

    thanks
  • megapowmegapow Member Posts: 1
    Hi. My boyfriend and I just purchased a 1995 Villager a few days ago. Im very pleased with it so far, but of course its only been a few days. My boyfriend took off the plastic black grill on the front of the van to replace a burnt out bulb on the light bar, now he can't get the grill back on. Are there any tricks that anyone has that would make replacing the grill easier. Thanks in advance.

    Megan
  • mpereslemperesle Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response, Steve. Yes, we have changed the rotors, in fact we just did this last brake job last week. I know we have replaced them at least one other time, maybe even twice or more.

    My husband is the only one who drives the van and he drives with his right foot. The dealership has not been able to find anything as I had said in my previous posting but I consider this a safety issue as well which is why our mechanic won't have anything to do with repairing the brakes.

    We have only had to replace the rear brakes once to the 10+ times in the front. We are SO FRUSTRATED at this point. I am going to talk to Nissan Consumer Affairs again tomorrow and see what they say.

    If anyone does have any advice, it would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Sorry to hear of your trouble. We have around 55,000 on our 99 Quest on the original brakes.

    Obviously there is something wrong if you are not riding the brakes. Did the dealer check if the calipers are sticking? I'm surprised you only had to change the rotors once, if the brakes are dragging enough to wear them out in 5000 miles the rotors must get red hot. I'm really surprised they haven't been able to find a problem. The braking system just isn't that complicated.

    And obviously it's a safety issue. Perhaps a complaing to the NHSTA is in order. I hope you are able to get the problem fixed.

    Dave
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    And if your dealer tells you again that they put the "wrong brakes" on your 99, tell him to put in the right ones and have the factory pay for it!

    Dave
  • 2villagerowner2villagerowner Member Posts: 6
    To replace the grill, you need to locate the black plastic snap in tabs, lock them all into the GOR (support piece under the light bar). then line them all up so the square on the clip will fit through the square opening in the plastic grill part. I believe there are 4 snap in tabs total. It will take a few tries to get them all lined up, then rotate the square 45 deg to lock in the grill. Tug on the grill to verify it locked. FYI, the bulbs you paid $6.00 each for, typically last 12-14 months, after two complete sets, I gave up. Unless the light bar is the "coolest" thing about the van, it isn't worth the money and aggravation.
  • wg45678wg45678 Member Posts: 55
    Which brakes have been replaced? Have the rear brakes ever been replaced? If you're wearing all four wheels out I'd suspect a general brake failure if you're not riding the brakes or if something is not interfering with the brake pedal and keeping it depressed. Anyone ever check to see if the brake light switch is misadjusted (and not allowing the brake pedal to go to the top of it's travel)?

    If it's just front brakes, then I'd suspect calipers.

    In either case, the brakes ought to be heating up quite a bit in short travel. Anyone ever check that out? How's your gas mileage? If the brakes are dragging it should be terrible.
  • tomlefebvretomlefebvre Member Posts: 3
    I just had the grill off again to replace 2 bulbs in the light bar on my '94 Villager.

    The grill comes off with a quarter turn either way of the 6 plastic screw slotted head fasteners. Don't push in to hard while doing this, or the fastener will be pushed into the mounting hole, possibly falling in some place.

    When off, take the plastic fasteners out of their locations, and fit them in the grill. On the back side of the grill, there is a channel for the 2 wing locks on each fastener to fit into. Snap them into those rectangle molds. When correctly done, they won't turn, but still allow the 2 wings to flex in.

    When properly positioned, both wing locks will flex in to lock into their mounting holes. With the 6 fasteners in position on the grill, the grill can then be easily put in it's place, with each fastener snapping into place when pushed in.

    When out, I treat the plastic with Armoral Exterior, including the fasteners. It really brings the black color back, and I hope, will make it last forever.

    I like the light bar so much, that the $6/bulb - WalMart is the cheapest I can find, is worth it.
  • tomlefebvretomlefebvre Member Posts: 3
    CBS Evening news did a segment on the dangers of the doors locking on their own.


    The full story is at this site - http://www.cbsnews.com/now/story/0,1597,310231-412,00.shtml


    Michael at CBS wants to know if this happens to you. His e-mail address is - mas@cbsnews.com .

  • mdharrodmdharrod Member Posts: 1
    Thought this might help someone having this same problem. I took my 2000 Nissan Quest back to the dealer twice because the glass in the left hand sliding door would not stay latched. The dealer replaced the latch twice. This did not fix the problem. I called and asked if I could have a new latch to install myself. I installed the new latch and still had the problem. Since I now had two latches, I figured I could try and modify one to see if I could get it to work correctly. Upon further investigation, I realized that the screw holes in the door did not line up with the latch. This was putting a strain on the latch and would not allow it to seat properly. I enlarged the bottom hole on the latch and used two flat washers behind the latch. This re aligned the latch so that it would seat correctly when closed. I closed the door numerous times and it stayed latched.

    I have 36,000 miles on my Quest. The problems I have had with it have all been minor. The throttle started to stick which made for a dangerous situation. The dealer said this was a maintenance problem and was not covered under warranty! That is ridiculous. I cleaned the throttle body myself but imagine how much this is costing people that would not know what a throttle body is! Bad design Nissan. The rotors had to be turned at 20,000 miles. The brakes appear to be a bad design as well. The plastic intake manifold hisses when you are at an idle, another bad design. And the back windows rattle when they are open. It does not get all that great of gas mileage ether. The best I have gotten was 24MPG driving 75 on the highway. My dad has a Chevrolet mini van and he gets 27MPG on the highway with a more powerful engine.
  • faruqim1faruqim1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a weird problem with one of the captain chairs' seatbelt. The seatbelt gets locked in few minutes after you put the straps on. There is no way to get out of this jam except to remove the strap and put it again. Does anybody has any knowledge of this problem?
  • turksteritisturksteritis Member Posts: 95
    I recently bought a used 98 quest with 26,000 miles on it. I get 26.5 mpg. (Canadian) which is about 22 US at 70 mph. Power is adequate & it is comfortable. Only prob so far is rear wiper konked out on me & seems to happen a lot on these. Good van, drives like a car!
  • klinklin Member Posts: 54
    My wife 96 Quest could not start today.

    It was towed to a gas station and we were told it is likely a fuel problem. The tech told us the fuel can't flow from tank to engine (something like that sort). He can't determine specifically what is the problem (fuel pump, fuel line, computer?). We had our fuel hose replaced by the recall in May this year.

    I need your help:
    - should I send the van to dealer for repair?
    - do you have similar problem? Is the problem under warranty
    - how much it may cost to fix the fuel problem.

    Thanks so much
  • charles15charles15 Member Posts: 57
    I have a 99 Quest with brake problems also. I sometimes get a grinding sound and soon after that my pads are shot. Last time in to the dealer I was armed with a TSB from the site listed below:

    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/Index.cfm


    There is a problem with the calipers made by good old FORD Motor Company. I did not request a copy of the TSB but the dealer told me it only says to lubricate the bolts on the calipers to prevent them from hanging up. It does make sense though if you are wearing brakes that they are hanging up against the rotors which basically is like having your foot on the brakes all the time. I only have a few thousand miles on my newest pads so am not sure the problem is fixed. Seems to me the fix would be new calipers which I believe Nissan should provide if this is a defect. Keep the site posted concerning your progress or lack therof. Good luck.

  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    The fuel pump is a known "suspect" in the Quest. Have you noticed it making noise lateley, or any hesitation or missing? Was the fuel level low in the tank? If any of these are the case, it may be the fuel pump.

    You do not necessarily have to take it to the delaer to fix it. A good independent mechanic should be able to fix it. But a good Nissan service department has likely seen problems like this before and should be able to fix it as well.

    The warranty on the Quest (bumper to bumper) is 3 years or 36,000 miles. It seems you are over 3 years, so it will most likely not be covered. But if you take it to the dealer, it won't hurt to ask. All they can do is say no.

    Dave
  • klinklin Member Posts: 54
    David,

    You are correct! It is the fuel pump.
    Cost me > $500 to fix @ the dealer because the gas station where the van was towed too couldn't diagnose/fix the problem.

    I live in Silicon Valley. Can anyone recommend a good independent mechanic in the South Bay?

    Thanks,
    KK
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    I just replaced a '93 Villager with a '99 Estate model. I am very happy with the '99 except for a nagging problem - the headlights seem to go out for no reason. I suspect a wiring problem as I can wiggle the wiring going to the light bulb and the lights will come back on. The two headlights do not go out at the same time, so it seems to be an independent problem with each light. I need to get to the dealer this week before we go out of town for the holidays. Any guidance on what to look for or hearing of any similar experiences would be helpful.

    Thanks
  • cookie22cookie22 Member Posts: 73
    What is the going price for a "99" Vill. Estate? Would like to sell mine. It is really a cream puff with 39000 mi. on it.I have never had any problem with the lights. In fact they are better than the lights on my 95 Cad.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    The Edmunds used vehicle pricing is not too far off. Dealers seem to be pricing them around $19-$20 and selling for less. From what I saw, the market price is around $14 - $16. Depends on location, condition, etc.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    Just a follow-up to my question above regarding intermittent headlights - the dealer diagnosed this as bad headlight sockets. One had actually shown some signs of melting. They were both replaced under warranty. I would advise those with '99 Villagers to check their headlight connectors and have repaired if necessary as I have seen a couple of other people post that they had similar problems.
  • cduongcduong Member Posts: 70
    I have a '94 Villager which I bought it used when it had 18,000 miles.It now has 68,000 miles. I changed front pads, new timing belt and water pump at 60,000. My mechanic also replaced the thermostat since it's next to timing belt and while it's open. Rear brakes have grinding noise as mentioned by lots of you.My main concern is the exhaust manifolds bolts, seems like common problem. My mechanic cheched at 60,000 miles and he told me that no sign of failure (yet). Anybody know anything about the recall ? or where to file a complain ?
    I also have a '87 Camry and it has 160,000 miles. Nothing has been done (yes NOTHING) to it except regular maintenance (timing belts at 80,000 and 150,000... water pump at 150,000, 2 CVJoints at 140,000... oil change every 3000 miles)... You guess which car I am going to buy next...
    Thanks for info about Mercury Villager, especially the manifold bolts problem.
  • wg45678wg45678 Member Posts: 55
    FYI:

    I just had to have two exhaust manifold studs replaced (one on the front and back) and also two collapsed engine mounts replaced. Quest is '93 XE; Mileage is 97,000; car is 9 years old.

    According to the service rep. no TSB or recall on either despite frequent problems with the former. Don't know about other owners, but this is the 2nd time I've had to have engine mounts replaced. I've never had this failing in any other vehicle.
  • sopmansopman Member Posts: 46
    I have a '99 Quest with 38,000, of course 2,000 beyond warrenty, and the speedometer after driving for about 5 minutes goes to zero, then back to the speed I'm traveling, then back to zero and keeps repeating this. It looks like the windshield wiper running sideways. Then after cruising for a constant speed for about 10 minutes it stays at zero. If I stop it starts all over again. Can someone point me in the right direction to fix this...

    Sopman
  • derosaderosa Member Posts: 10
    Has anyone experienced this light. It's related to a emission control problem/malfunction. Own Quest 99SE, 40K.
  • eesmomeesmom Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 98 Villager with 52K miles in July. In general I have been very happy with it. In September it started to make a whining/grinding noise when steering but only when cold. The noise would stop as the engine heated up. Over the course of a week or two the noise became louder and eventually was present almost all the time and got really bad when steering. I took the van back to the dealer (a Chrysler dealer as I purchased a service contract) and they replaced the power steering pump. This took care of the problem initially but after about another 2 months the whining while steering noise returned and just like the last time it is geting progressively worse. I am not experiencing any steering problems. When I had the car in for an oil change in November, I mentioned the noise to the service department. They checked the fluid level and it was full and their response was "a lot of Fords make that noise". Has anyone ever experienced a similar problem? I would sure like to get this fixed for good as it is really annoying!
  • cookie22cookie22 Member Posts: 73
    I have a "99' Villager that does NOT make any noise at all while steering. I find it hard to believe that all fords do that and a Villager isn't really a ford either. Mine has a Nissan motor with a Maxima frame assembled in Ohio in a ford factory.
  • grammy1grammy1 Member Posts: 6
    Our van heater fan is only working on the high speed and we are 3,000 miles over warranty. We do not like the noise but need the warmth. Any suggestions as to the problem would be appreciated. Before we take it for service we would like to have an idea of how much money we may have to put out for the work. Maybe someone else has had the same problem. Thanks
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