Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

hammersley · January 2002

Check engine light on our '95 Villager 55k miles is on, but not all the time. If I take it out on the freeway at 70-75 for a few minutes, it goes out. Back to surface streets, CEL back on. Engine running as smooth as it ever has, passing emissions test with flying colors. I suspect an errant sensor somewhere. Any ideas?

Cheers!
Paul

dhoff · January 2002

There is a set or electrical resistors that controls the fan speed. It's either part of the switch, or a separate resistor pack associated with the switch. One or more of the resistors are burned out, with the result that the fan only works at full speed.

The fix is either to repalace the resistor pack or the switch. If you can locate a reputable independent mechanic they should be able to fix it pretty easily. I don't know how much it would cost though. If you call your dealer's service department, they sould be able to tell you what the parts and labor cost for the fix.

Hope this helps.

Dave

grammy1 · January 2002

Thanks for the information regarding our 99 Quest fan problem. We will call the service dept. tomorrow and find out the cost for the fix.

nickt · January 2002

I have a 96 GXE with 72K miles and the check engine light just came on. It seems to run just fine. Do I really need to have the dealer check it out?
Any suggestions?

mgr4 · January 2002

My 95 villager with 69,000 miles, has a similar problem, except my light comes on when I get on the freeway at 70-75 miles per hour. The minute I reduce speed at my exit ramp it goes off. Car runs perfect the whole time. This has been going on for about two months. I hate to take it in to the dealer since the car is running very well. Any ideas.

cduong · January 2002

Try to open and then close gas tank cap... That could do the trick... good luck

hammersley · January 2002

If the gas cap is left off for any length of time while the engine is running, the OBD will think it's a fuel pressure/delivery problem, and trigger a CEL. Other than using the scanner to read & reset the CEL, the only way to clear the memory is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This may also reset the engine computer, which means driveability problems until it relearns combustion/altitude/fuel parameters.

mgr4: I'm letting mine run til the next scheduled service stop, or something different happens (my wife nagging me about it may qualify)!

Cheers!
Paul

kuljinder · January 2002

I have a 1994 Nissan Quest and my question is that I was installing a JVC 12 Disc CD
Changer with a FM Modulator, well I hooked everything up and when the time came to test everything, my radio/tape didn't turn on. I checked all the wires, and all the fuses. Then when I took out all the wires and put them back, the clock turned on for about less than 1 second then turned off again. I checked everything again and the same thing happened

I would very much appreciate if someone can help me with my problem..

Thanks

esp63 · January 2002

About a month ago, I mentioned(nissan quest thread)that my brake fluid level had inexplicably gone down and that my front brakes were chattering. Well, I just had the front pads replaced and rotors turned. At 32k miles, this is the earliest that I've ever had to perform such operations on any vehicle that I've owned but I'm willing to accept that the brakes work hard to slow such a considerable load. However, I discovered something a little more disturbing about my rear brakes. The rear brake cylinder had been leaking and was likely the cause for my needing to top-off the reservior. I'm beginning to think that the vehicle is going to become a nightmare just about the time the mfg. warranty expires. I also had one power lock actuator replaced and am going back to replace more- the actuators were making a grinding sound when the locks were toggled. I'm also noticing a consistent chirping sound during up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th under moderate acceleration.

At first, we had some minor fit and finish issues and thought nothing of it. But now, we have some mileage on the vehicle and it seems to be aging pre-maturely. My '93 Villager had one issue(manifold bolts) in the 6 years that I owned it. I expected the next generation to be an improvment, not a step back. We'll see...

stever · January 2002

I had actuator problems for a while with my '99 GXE, but they have calmed down, and haven't chattered for many months now (actually haven't thought about them for a long time until I read your post).

I do think I need to clean the throttle body....

These updates are nice to see, warts and all - anyone else have anything to report?

Steve
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revka · January 2002

in the main Nissan Quest discussion, and thought it would also be appreciated here:

These are problems I've experienced so far with my 99 SE Quest:

-Noisy brake booster replaced twice: 12k, 25k. Noticed the creaking earlier on. Dealer claims noise is normal, but replaced it with my persuasion. Noise improved on second repair. Despite noise, brakes have always worked fine.
-Vibration/rattles under the dash fixed at 29k. Was there for quite a while, but waited till it was more obvious.
-Middle row window latch replaced because of clicking noise. There is a tsb out on this.
-Noisy Blower Motor replaced at 33k. Dealer said they could not hear noise, but went ahead and replaced it.
-Power door switch replaced at 33k. Door was periodically locking itself. There is also a tsb on this.
-Knock sensor replaced at 33k. Btw, this malfunction will only be noticed via the computer consult. It will not trigger the check engine light. Not a bad idea to check this out before the 36k/36m warranty expires.

Persisting problems at 33.6k: occasional vibration heard from right dash or door. Occasional rough idle. Hope this is helpful. I'll keep you posted on anything else that occurs.

Revka
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dsittler · January 2002

I recently purchased a '93 Quest. It is very clean inside and out. However, I am having problems with the A/T shifting late. When it does shift it shifts harder than normal. Has anyone had similar experience with same year? Any ideas on what the problem is? I have had it checked by three different sources and they don't seem to agree on what the problem is?

hammersley · January 2002

First thing I'd do is service the tranny... a fluid & filter change can go a long way to curing problems such as that... unless you know it's been less than 30k miles since it was last done, it would be worth the 60 or so bucks, IMO.

Cheers!
Paul

dhoff · January 2002

It is possible your problem is due to a bad throttle position sensor.

You might want to take a look through the archives of the VillagerQuest mailing list. I have seen similar problems addressed there.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

As Paul mentions, it's not a bad idea to have your transmission fluid & filter changed anyway, as preventative mainenance.

Dave

uniquehandle · January 2002

I have a '94 Quest which exhibited the same problem (very hard shifts from 1st to 2nd), before it decided a few weeks later to just leave it in 1st at any speed. The problem was a faulty Transmission Control Unit (TCU) - a burnt connector wire was the obvious symptom.

After replacing the TCU, it ran another few weeks before the same wire burnt in the replacement unit. Clearly, there's something awry in the Electrical system, but I don't know what.

rickroz · January 2002

I make sure I get mine changed every 20-25k miles. The first time I had this service done at the dealer, the service rep said it was a good idea to do this because the transmission in the Quest has no filter. Has anyone heard this??

gasguzz · January 2002

2k1 VillSport. Per the service manual, "The transaxle does not does not contain a conventional fluid filter. The filter cannot be changed without removing the valve body. Changing of the filter is not a regular maintenance item."
So I am about to have a "factory" mechanic dismantle a normally functioning tranny just to change the filter. And with just a fluid change, I'm doing that myself.

revka · January 2002

You know, this is something I've been wondering about myself. In my 99 Quest owners' manual, it doesn't really state when to replace, accept for in "note 1" where it says: "if you're towing, using a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) fluid at every 30,000 miles or 24 months.

Otherwise it just says "i" inspect... all the way through.... I asked a mechanic I know, and he suggested I have this done at 60k since I don't tow anything. I've seen other suggestions online to have this changed as high as 100k. Seem a little high to me.

Now my own Nissan service advisor suggests every 30k, but then they are in the businesss of earning your hard earned dollars. Not to mention he does state that a 30k tranny change is NOT required for fulfilling any lease requirements. If I decide to purchase my lease, I'll probably changed the tranny fluid shortly there after... or no later than 45k just to be safe. ;-)

Anyway, my 2 cents.

Revka
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gasguzz · January 2002

"So I am about to have a "factory" mechanic dismantle a normally functioning tranny just to change the filter."
Correction: I am NOT about to... (above).
It still is a mechanical tranny and fluid is cheap at 30k intervals, so I will be doing that maint (especially since I own the van - cheap insurance).

wg45678 · February 2002

dsittler -- Some of the '93s (like mine that has the trailer towing package) came with dual mode (economy/power) tranmission programming. Might check the obvious and make sure the tranmission is not set in 'power' mode. It does delay the shifts and make the shifts feel more abrupt. The switch is in the pod to the right of the steering wheel.

I change the transmission fluid/filter every 30k, manual or automatic transmission (and I don't do trailer towing). Just noticed a few months ago, after paying for it all these years, that the transmission pan has a drain plug on the bottom. Never had a car with a drain plug before; always paid to have it changed because I didn't want to be cleaning tranny oil off my driveway...

mjeong · February 2002

HI ALL, I'M THINKING ABOUT USING A SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL ON MY 2000 VILLAGER. I'VE BEEN GOING OVER THE INFO FOR MOBIL 1, REDLINE & AMSOIL AND OF COURSE THEY ALL PROMOTE THEIR PRODUCTS, BUT I WANT TO KNOW REAL LIFE EXPERIENCES BEFORE MOVING FORWARD. IF YOU HAVE ANY FEEDBACK, IT WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS....

etudes · February 2002

Hi Folks,
We recently purchased a 96 Quest GXE with 54,000 miles on it. We've been pretty happy with it so far (just over a month) though we've had some relatively minor electrical bugs. The rear audio controls work sporadicly at best and I was considering pulling them out and replacing them with the cupholder that sits in the same cut out. (don't really need the kids messing with the volume anyway!) I'm wondering if I can just disconnect the controls or if there may need to be some additional re-wiring would be required to take those controls out of the loop. Thanks to all who keep the posts coming. Very helpful to a new owner like myself. Tim

etudes · February 2002

Hi all,
I thought maybe someone out there has had some experience with this one: Is it normal to get some tap-tap-tap-tap (kind of like lifter noise) for a few seconds during extremely cold mornings. Our 96 has 54,000 miles on it and I use 10-30 oil. I get the same sound on my Pathfinder but it has 187,000 miles so it doesn't surprise me there. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks! Tim

stever · February 2002

Hi etudes - it's rather quiet around here on the weekend. Maybe when folks get back to "work" on Monday you'll get some responses.

Mjeong, the Synthetic motor oil discussion may have some answers for you.

Steve
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revka · February 2002

I started using Castrol Syntec, available through my Nissan dealer, when my van got to 3k miles. Recently I switched to Mobile One. I've heard it's better than Castrol, plus I'm able to purchase it at Costco for $21 per box (6 quarts). Of course you only need 4 1/2 quarts per oil change.

I still have my dealer put it in. I purchase an Nissan Oil filter from him for around 9 bucks then pay him and additional 5 dollars to change the oil/filter for me. So with oil included, my total costs come to around $33.

Btw, if you're going to use an aftermarket oil filter, I've been told to make sure it's not a cheap one. I was told that the Nissan oil filters have this special valve in them to prevents all the oil from draining out of the engine overnight. (I'm sure this is also available in other brands as well.) This supposedly helps prevent a cold start up in the morning... therefore reducing engine wear.

My 99 SE Quest has only 34k miles on it, so I honestly can't account for the difference. However, it does give me a little peace of mind. Also, some people feel more comfortable extending the oil changes to 7.5k, as opposed to 3.7k, when using synthetic. Hope this is helpful. ;-)

Revka
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cnack · February 2002

I just bought a 2001 Quest SE from Carmax last month with 12,000 miles on it. (Black/silver two-tone, tinted window and the alloy wheels make it the coolest van in town!) A few days after bringing it home, my wife and I noticed a "rickety" sound in the cabin while driving it. It almost sounds like the sliding door insulation sticking and unsticking as the doors vibrate in the door frames. We are first time minivan owners and not sure if it should ride like this. Has anybody heard this in their Quest? Is this normal?

stever · February 2002

Sounds like a tough one and rattling doors doesn't ring a bell for me. Some have experienced problems with the rear windows popping open or a faulty latch, so check them closely. Anyone else?

Steve
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mteubner · February 2002

I hate to keep beating this subject, but after reading about all of the problems Villager owners have had with their exhaust studs breaking, I chickened out and had mine done on my 1993 Villager with 77K miles on it. We plan to keep the van for several more years. As far as I know, none of the studs were broken, but it was cheaper to have it done now than fixing broken studs later. I had to buy the studs, locking nuts and gaskets at the Nissan dealer since my Mercury dealer would have had to order the parts. Two of the studs broke off when my mechanic tried to get them out and he drilled and tapped them. On the other 10 studs, he had to weld the old nut to the stud so he'd have something to get a socket on.

corsicachevy · February 2002

Cnack - I own a 2001 Quest SE that has developed a very similar rattle. This is the only problem the vehicle has developed in 13,500 miles.

I'm taking it in tomorrow for its scheduled servicing and will have the mechanic take a look at the passenger side sliding door. As was mentioned by our host, I think the rear window latches are loose.

cnack · February 2002

Thanks for the good word fellas. I don't think it is the rear window latches, but I'll check them anyway to be sure. Again, it sounds like the door and door frame insulation sticking and unsticking together...like driving across blacktop on a hot sunny day and you can hear your tires sticking to the surface. We have to turn the radio up a bit to drown it out. I'm concerned that the doors may not be shutting tight enough or not sitting in the door frames snugly. I may bring it up next time I have it at the Nissan dealer for service.

corsicachevy · February 2002

cnack - I'm familiar with the noise you referenced. I believe that noise is what many of us call Quest/Villager "character". These vehicles have always had their share of creaks and rattles, which are sometimes annoying, but never detract from the Villager/Quest's overall durability.

I think you are correct. Here is my theory. The sound you are hearing is coming from the front doors and is a result of minor body flex. A more modern design would likely not suffer from these somewhat annoying squeaks and rattles. But who are we to complain - these vans are durable and offer the most bang-for-the-buck in the minivan market (will, they did until the Sedona came along).

cnack · February 2002

Thanks corsicachevy for putting words to my thoughts. Minor body flex is probably what is causing this phenomena...I guess what I wondering is whether anybody else has this rickety sound and whether they were able to do anything about it. From the tone of your last message and Steve's thoughts, it sounds like this is just part of owning a Quest. You're right, the Quest is the most bang-for-the-buck with features. I suppose that is what keeps me from being more upset about the cabin noise.

stever · February 2002

My '99 has a few occasional rattles, but I attribute them to the empty Diet Coke cans rolling around and the spinner tire iron bungied to one side of the van.

Steve
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cookie22 · February 2002

I solved this annoying noise by spraying the rubber moldings with "Wurth's" Rubber care. Do not use silocone sprays. My son is a paint and body man at one of our car dealerships and this is what he uses for that problem. It sure worked on our "99" Villager.

faruqim · February 2002

cookie22, could you please explain how did you remove the rubber molding. I have the same kind of noise in my SE '01.

cookie22 · February 2002

the rubber moldings. I just held the can close to the moldings and sprayed them.

craicoit · February 2002

I am considering a purchase of a 1995 Quest with 50,000 miles. the cost is 7900. I have read with interest the manifold bolt issues, and the fuel pump and related problems. Is there a way to see if the bolts will be an issue on the particular car? What other considerations should I have. For owners of the 1995 Quest, would you do it again and why or why not Thanks very much.

rickroz · February 2002

I started using Valvoline synthetic 5-30 oil in my 1999 Quest when it had about 5000 miles on it. Its at 52,000 now. I change the oil between 4 & 5k miles. I don't notice any difference between syn and regular oil, the price difference is not too bad. Napa sells it for $4.19/qt, I buy 5 qts. every 4th oil change and use a of quarter of the 5th bottle to fill the filter before I screw it on, then just put in the 4 qts.
I have been using the Napa gold and silver filters, I have heard they are pretty good.

sopman · February 2002

I have a '99 Quest with 40,000 and use castrol oil 5w-30 and fram filters. I change the oil every 4500 to 5500 miles. Did the same with my corolla and got 180,000 miles out it. If you change it that often, it probably doesn't matter what you use.

andersonp · February 2002

Craicoit,
I own a 1995 Nissan Quest XE and love it. I have 102000 miles on it. It still drives like it did when I first purchased it. I haven't experienced any major mechanical problems since day one. This week, I will be putting it in the shop to have some deserved maintenance completed: CV Boot replacement, new fan belts, timing belt, tranny flush, and possible water pump if necessary. All of this is to be completed by a trusted Nissan Dealership who has completed all the maintenance on the Quest. I have been quoted a price of $850 for parts and labor.

If you decide to purchase one, have it inspected. You will be pleased with your decision.

gasguzz · February 2002

2k1 VillSport.
I'm with sopman. Change by time, every 6 months with bosch filter. Just got a case over xmas of valvoline dino. With rebate = .49cents per quart (big diff over full-syn cost).

klin · February 2002

Thanks for all the postings here - very useful!

Have anyone encountered radiator problem for your Quest?

I have a 96 Quest. Recently it has gone through several major repairs, fuel pump, etc.. Now the dealer has suggested me to replace the radiator!

Every item costs > $500! I am wondering if Nissan makes good and reliable vehicles.

Your experience is appreciated.

sopman · February 2002

Hey Gasguzz,
Great price on the oil. I caught Castrol on sale and with rebate for .69 cents about three years ago. Bought 8 cases. Getting low now. Been looking for some more sales. Don't care what brand.

wg45678 · February 2002

FYI. Have 93 Quest XE (with trailer towing package and 2 Row radiator) Had have my radiator replaced at about 90k miles because it had developed a significant leak. Learn, to my local mechanics dismay that -- surprise -- Nissan has discontined the heavy duty two row radiator and superseded the part # with a single row. Mechanic couldn't get a dual row from Nissan, Ford (Villager equivalent) or from any other parts houses.

$500 seems a bit high; think I paid less using for it installed.

wg45678 · February 2002

Any one else experiencing problems with the engine mounts or door locks? I've just had to put in my second full set of mounts in 90k miles (first set died under warranty). Never had so frequent a replacement. 1st set broke; the second set collapsed (guess fluid insert died or something).

Also, any problems with the door locks? It appears both front door locks are worn out in my 93 Quest (95k miles). Passenger door started binding up (can't unlock if from outside with the key) at about 50k miles; now the driver's door sticks (can't unlock with the key or from inside). I've lubed everything in sight to no avail; dealer quoted me $120 for the new lock (should say latch) mechanism plus labor. (Checked -- it's not hte power door lock motors binding, The plastic pieces of the lock it self appear worn out).

rickroz · February 2002

I complained to the dealer about the brake pedal being too soft and spongey on my '99 SE. They said they checked it out and I got the "they all do that" line. This was about 15 to 17k miles. Fast forward to ~49k miles and I am getting the front brakes done again, first set of pads lasted 32k miles.My mechanic told me the rear wheel brake cylinders were starting to leak, but it could go a little longer before I need to replace them.
So a few months and 3k miles and I finally get them replaced. My soft pedal is gone!! I cannot believe how nice and firm the pedal is. If anyone has what they believe is too soft a pedal, have the rear wheel cylinders checked.

triglia · February 2002

Does anyone know where I can find out more re: the silent warranty for the 95 Quest? I called Nissan and they can find no information about this.This is the 84month/100k warranty.

klin · February 2002

Hello,

I have had a 60K service for the Quest.

Right after the service, the coolant level was at MAX. Five days later, the coolant level is now in between MAX and MIN.

Should I be concerned there is a major leak? Or the coolant is now in the radiator? I was told by the dealer that my radiator has (minor) leak.

Thanks for your advice.
KK

charles15 · February 2002

One of my door locks on my 99 Quest(50k)is chattering when I hit the central locking system with the fob. If anyone has experience with this, am I about to have a locking problem? Had a similar problem fixed once just before the 36k warranty ran out but will not get it done until necessary when it is on my nickel.

esp63 · February 2002

My '99 Quest(33k) is 1/5 of the way through a complete change-out of the door actuators. They've been making a grinding sound for the past 4k miles. I told the dealer that all of them were doing this and, of course, he replaced the driver's door unit. The sound has become sporadic but, at various times in the past month, has been heard from each of the other 4 units. I had the van in about 4 weeks ago to have the other doors done, but the dealer needed to order the parts. Of course, he didn't order one for the lift-gate. So no I'm waiting him to get that unit as well. 3 trips(optimistically viewing the next one as the last one) to iron out a very specific and correctable complaint- that's about par for Nissan. I've lived in 2 states and had the same sloppy service experiences everywhere I've gone. I had a leaky rear brake cylinder replaced(under warranty) when I had the brakes serviced last month. Now I have a mysterious chirp coinciding with each transmission upshift(most common going from 3rd to 4th). I can't believe the lack of reliability with this vehicle. I had a '94 Villager that required nothing but routine maintenance and a manifold bolt fix. And I thought that fix was a big deal... I'm beginning to think that I should either get an extended warranty or sell the darn thing.

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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