Buick Park Avenue

jashaw11 · June 2005

Hey color. I have a 91 park avenue and I have found the same thing. I was reading an article from car and driver when my car was new and they said that the suspension was EXTRA soft from the factory which caused excessive body roll and lots of tire squealing in long corners which I have noticed. I have looked around for replacement parts to stiffen up my suspension and have found nothing. If I can I would like to change to standard suspension parts and rip the entire DynaRide system out. Did you find any information on the subject? are there compatible parts out there in the world? If so please help me out

mickey10 · June 2005

Hello,
I've just recently aquired a 2000 Park Avenue,and while it is a very nice car,I found that while at low speeds(3-10mph)when the brake is applied it makes a very loud whine.Mind you it isn't a squeel but more like a dull groan.Anyone else ever have this problem-and yes it vibrates at 70 plus mph.

Any help appreciated.
Mickey Mullins

PAman · June 2005

Bartzy,

If the crank angle sensor is bad, it would die completly or not start one time, then start fine the next.

Your problem sounds like a clogged fuel filter, tired fuel pump about to fail or clogged fuel injectors. The items need to be serviced in that order.

The fuel filter is pretty self-explanatory. If you can't remember the last time it was changed, change it. Also, put some gas treatment in your tank that specifically is designed to 'dry' the gas, meaning absorb the water and allow it to pass through the filter. Many new filters are made with a material that, if exposed to water, will clog and not let the gas pass through.

As for the pump, you may need to get the pressure checked against the factory spec; if it is not within 80% or so of the factory specifications, the pump is wearing out. The tank will need to be dropped in order to replace it. ONLY USE AN AC-DELCO PUMP!!!

As for the fuel injectors, find a shop that will sell you a can of BG 44K and put it in the gas tank. It is used by professional shops to clean injectors and excess valve deposits. If you can't find a shop, go to www.bgfindashop.com and type in your ZIP code.

Good luck!

Joe

johnh5 · June 2005

I drive 100 miles to work and back each day. Lately, every other week (usually on Friday) I get into this car to drive home (50 miles), turn the key, and it is dead: no crank, no accessories, no nothing. If I fiddle with the cables then electric power may return: it starts. If I find neutral with the shifter, power may return: it starts. The radio memory has cleared though. So far, I have replaced the battery (this car has gone through 3 batteries and has 24K miles on it). I had cables cleaned and checked. The dealer says it throws no diagnostic sense codes. The dealer also says that until the failure occurs for them they can do nothing. Of course, when the dealer has it it starts every time. What is up with this car?

fredvh · June 2005

Have they checked the transmission lock? The car should not start unless it is in Park.

buicks5 · July 2005

Ensure the cabin filter is not clogged. It is in three sections in a compartment above the accel pedal.

buicks5 · July 2005

Double check with dealer if that car has the intake manifold coolant problem.

buicks5 · July 2005

Yeah...hosed design. Later years did not require removing engine mounts.

buicks5 · July 2005

Ensure that the oil filler plug on the front of the charger is pulled and the charger oil level is full (at bottom of threads). Takes a special synthetic oil. Have that oil replaced, if you buy the car. Is to be checked every 30k miles.

buicks5 · July 2005

Brake pedal arm contacts the break light switch, when the brake is applied. However, if the switch is mis-positioned i.e. out of adjustment, the pedal arm can contact that switch all the time and it will constantly disengage the cruise. Have the break light switch adjusted or possibly replaced.

buicks5 · July 2005

Double check on the Enmunds TMV site for a value- very accurate. Only known issue was that the garage door opener will not work with "rolling code" garage door openers. Didn't go to rolling code until 2000 MY. Also, GM 3800 had major problem with bad intake manifolds leaking coolant into the oil at about 125k miles, until 2000, BUT THE ULTRA with Supercharger should not or did not have that cheap manifold. Double check with service tech at a dealer, to verify that.

I have a 2000 and they are great cars...quit, fast, but get steady 28 mpg at 75mph. Can be sensitive to out of balance tires.

buicks5 · July 2005

get Michelins...

buicks5 · July 2005

Use Mobil 1 synthetic AND their Mobil 1 oil filter, which is 10-20 microns filtration, not the std 30 micron. Change the filter at 5k and 10k miles, replacing lost oil in the filter. Do full oil change at 15k. Use their 10w-30 oil or the new 7.5k rated oil. Other brands of 10-20 micron rate filters also ok...Bosch, etc. This is per a lube engineer at Mobil I talked to. I do this on all my Buicks...last Roadmaster wagon used about a 1/2 quart at 5k miles, with 235k miles on it. Sold to niece, still running like a top.

I am on third 3800 engine...highest miles was 175k (totaled when rearended) and used no oil between changes. Water pump went at 90 and 170k, but timing chain still in good shape! 3800's are bullet proof IMHO.

lilapple · July 2005

i have a 95 park avenue and it smells as if it has gasoline in the oil. what would cause this?

adery · July 2005

99 Park Avenue Ultra - Brakes

I bought my Park Avenue Ultra new in 1999. I have had to put brakes on the Park Avenue 7 times since I have owned the auto.
I have done a complete brake system, which included rotors, calipers, pads, drums, etc. in 3 of the 7.
Every 10-12k miles I am replacing the pads and need a complete brake job in every 20-30K miles.
I have written GM and they have denied any knowledge of braking system problems (isn't that just like a car company). They have offered me a $1,000 incentive to trade in my PA for a new buick. I have very low mileage on my vehicle and am reluctant to trade it in.
Has anyone else had these types of problems?

dtestworkin · July 2005

I have a 97 PA and the fuel guage would go wacky when it was anything other than full or empty, the problem was that the arm on the sender became loose from years of going up and down and the contacts would not touch the resistor and register a proper reading to cure this all i had to do was use vise grips and tighten the arm on the shaft , not sure what year PA you have but I was able to get my fuelpump/sender out through the access in the trunk hope you can do the same!!

alston28 · August 2005

My wife is making me replace my 1987 PA (144K). Now that Buick has discontinued the PA, what are PA drivers turning to? Thanks.

bobput · August 2005

How about LOW mileage used

How about LOW mileage used PA's??? Here there are lots of Buicks driven just 5-8k ayear by Sr citizens who give up driving !!! I'm looking for the perfect 2000-02 now for my wife-esp if it !has Stabilitrack ? Anyone have experience with that options effectiveness ??

oldnslow · August 2005

I ran my '93 to 190k using Mobil I 10-30 at 3k intervals. The only repairs ever required to the car were front struts , brakes, and an alternator at 105k. After reading through all the expensive problems with Infiniti and Lexus, I am now shopping for a low-mileage '96. I truly regret selling the '93, it is still serving its new owner faithfully at 260k. Only my old '79 Chevy pickup approaches the service life of the Park.

laforge · August 2005

how did you fix this problem same thing wrong with my pa

ambereyes · September 2005

For the past few months there is this cranking noise

(from the passenger front wheel) while making right turns (different from squeel of breaks for instance). when i lightly apply the breaks...it goes away and the noise appears only when going speeds over 15-20mph.

i have been to two different mechanics neither fixed the problem. one replaced the wheel bearing and didnt even hear the noise to begin with. my baby still makes the noise...i have inspected the cv joint, it is not cracked. the driver side front tire does show significant wear...all other tires are great. perhaps that is a clue?

i love my car and i want it in top condition. please help me! :confuse:

pacman_57 · October 2005

Does anybody have any experience with excessive brake squeal and the brake calipers rattling on the pins?
I have a '97 PA Ultra with touring suspension and 70,000 mi.
Back at 60,000 mi. I replaced the brake pads and have had nothing but squeals and rattles since. Twice in the last 10000 miles I've taken it all apart and semared smeared the back of the pads with anti squeal lube with only temporary releif of the squealing and nothing seems to help the caliper rattle.
I can rock the calipers by hand even after torquing the pins to spec.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

ary707 · October 2005

Hi everyone, i just bought my PA and I love it.
Problem: Whenever i press the brakes to hard there is annoying squeaking sound coming form the front left side. It changes pitch too.
Does anyone know what the problem might be. I would appreciate it very much if somebody could help me out.

Thank you

ejanus · October 2005

Here here! I am also 36 and at 6' 8" , there are very few options out there.
I just retired my 95 Crown Vic (207k miles!) to upgrade to the 2000 PA Ultra and love it!

Although the Vic did have more head room for me. Anybody know if it possible to get the seat slid back farther on the track to give me an extra inch or two of leg room?

ejanus · October 2005

Howdy all - some quick questions:

On using Premium Fuel: I drive 75 miles one-way to work. Manual says
you don't necessarily need premium fuel if the engine doesn't knock.
I don't notice any knock with 87 octane and I can get 30-31 mpg
on flat portions of highway with the cruise on. My question is: Is long-term
use of premium "better" for the 3800/Supercharged engine? I'm guessing
it matters not given my almost exclusive highway use of my Ultra.

I've noticed a whine when I accelerate under certain conditions. Often,
after turning off the cruise as I get into town. Anyone know what this is?

I reviewed a bunch of messages here and my Ultra also seems to make
a groaning sound when I turn the wheel hard (not too bad, but I've noticed
then I go to park the car in my office lot, it will groan a little as I make that
90 degree turn)

FINALLY, I have an infant and was wondering if the 2000 PA comes with the new car seat anchors, I don't remember finding this when I looked. Are they located only on one side in the back? Anyone know?

Thanks!

alston28 · October 2005

Not currently. But I bought a new 1987 PA when I was 33, and I still have it.

imidazol97 · October 2005

>new car seat anchors

Out 03 LeSabre has them. They are on the front edge of the rear shelf.

>groaning

Check for the strut cushions slipping erratically giving the moaning. My service manager had me hold my hand on the spring while he turned the front wheels smoothly from side to side. You could feel the cushion or bearing for the top of the strut give causing a twang sound. One slipping in smaller jerks could cause a moaning because the spring and suspension tended to resonate with the vibration.

juice1 · October 2005

Hello, first off, let me say congratts on the new purchase. I own a 1997 Park Ave Ultra and I love it. To answer your first question about the type of fuel to use.. you must use premium. Gas mpg has nothing to do with it. You are using a Supercharged engine that requires certain things. I'm sure you probably already know this but the supercharger forces air into your engine giving it boost. When it does this it requires the fuel to burn hotter and faster. If you only put 87 octane gas in it the fuel cannot burn hot enough or fast enough. This will lead to a bent valve, which believe me you don't want. You must run premium gas in this engine especially if you are driving a long distance to work. Once you are on the highway, it puts alot more stain on the engine to pass a car which in turn leads to you activating the booster. For you next question about the whine under acceleration. This could be your torque converter that resides in your transmission. PA torque converters are known to be noisy. You will be able to tell if the noise increases as your rpm increase and then drops as soon as your transmission shifts gears. If it is really noisy it could possibly be your supercharger differential. The differentials main purpose is to allow your tires to spin at different speeds under hard acceleration. If you or the previous owner has been hard on the car it is possible that the differential has been damaged. If you ever end up having your tranny rebuilt, ask the mechanic if the differential plate was blue or black. If it is blue its from spinning tires too much which in turn burnt the metal. If it is black, it is because of a defect and the fluid wasn't getting to it properly. To answer your question about the growl sound when you make 90 degree turns, this is totally normal. You are just straining the power steering pump. When you are in a parking lot you aren't spinning the pump very fast, this means that the pump isn't creating alot of pressure, giving you that growl sound when you turn the wheel. No need to worry its normal.

vehicle · November 2005

vehicle seems to be starting out in third gear.replaced speed sensor and module.fluid is good no debris in pan.
no codes.

pwteam · November 2005

I have a 97 PA with about 88K miles on it, I am very happy with it. Recently I found my battery dead and was able to have it jump started. The problem is while trying to start it the fuel gauge kept going crazy and somehow got stuck under the nub that it rests on. I have to keep track of how many miles I'm driving now to make sure I don't run out of gas. Also after the battery was replaced the check tires warning came on. I checked them and even put in some air, but it still comes on each time I start up. My dealer says he can fix the fuel gage for $125, anyone have any idea how I can fix it myself? :sick:

bawlmerc · November 2005

Remove the instrument panel cluster and rotate the cluster in your hands upside down. You will see the needle move, rotate till the needle is on the proper side of the pin.

woodntear · December 2005

My '98 PA came back front some front end work with the gas gauge needle rotated full clockwise so that it rested against the back side of the stop peg. After reading several posts on this site I sucessfully tried the following "quick fix": Using a hobby pin drill vise, hand drill a small hole over the gas gauge needle's center. Slip a paper clip or finer wire through the hole and rotate the needle into the upper part of the gauge area. Turn on the ignition. The needle should move to
"Empty" and then to its correct position.
It worked for me!

bshort2792 · December 2005

Hi everyone - Looking for a little help. My Park Avenue won't start. I turn the key - and it does try - but it just won't start. I end up running the battery down trying. Sometimes after I try to start it and then turn the key off - if gives me a really funny coughing sound. Any help would be appreciated.

dennygreen714 · December 2005

I had a similar problem with another car and the fuel injection was plugged. There should be a valve to release the pressure and normally this will allow it to start. Causes seem to be a tank of bad gasoline.

dennygreen714 · December 2005

Mine does this and it is in the control module. Seems to require a "reboot" at times.

dennygreen714 · December 2005

Did you find the problem???

wallst20 · December 2005

I have a 1995 and a 2001 Buick Park Avenue. Both have very low miles for the year model. I have noticed that they both tend to wander quite a bit. I have had both aligned and new tires, front ends checked etc. I recently drove a 2003 and found that one as true as an arrow. Any ideas or comments? Did Buick have a handling/steering problem over this 5-6 year period? Thanks!

sierraplane · January 2006

My 98 PA had the same fuel gauge problem. Thanks for your suggestion. I used a scratch awl to start the hole and then a very small pin drill and was able to move the needle which then worked properly. Thanks again!!

majordon · January 2006

I have a 99 that is doing the same things as you describe, did you ever find out what was wrong and how to fix it?

Thank you,

Don

kmosier · January 2006

Hi~ I have a 95 PA with about 115k miles and have been getting a whining noise when I start up the car. Sounds like its coming from the alternator / belt area. Whines at idle and highway speeds but more noticeable while idling or neighborhood driving at low speeds. Did seems to be intermittently but now pretty much constant. Any suggestions as to what this may be would be helpful.

imidazol97 · January 2006

IIRC some alternators had a whine. There was a TSB to do something to change them. I think my 93 had a whine I just lived with it--radio it's called. I usually had it on. The thing lost a diode at 70K mi about. 98 LeSabre has 130 on original alternator.

Do you have a gauge? Does it seem to be charging at the right voltage. Do you notice any difference when starting the car like the battery doesn't seem fully charged; the starter just doesn't hit with the same zap it used to have.

The whine could mean it's lost a diode. You might take it off and get it checked at the Auto places that run a free test in hopes you'll buy a replacement. I recommend Advance Auto because they have AC remanufacturer alternators if you do need one.

smitty52 · February 2006

I also have the 2000 Ultra. I have never heard any noises when using regular gas but i have had an idiot light come on, on two occassions. Both time i had to have the dealer reset it. Since then, i pretty much stick to premium.

chrisptown · February 2006

I am looking @ a '02 Ultra @ a Buick dealer. He is saying the ultra does not require premium fuel. Can anyone outhere give me the straight story is prem. fuel req. for the PA ultra??

calvin5 · March 2006

I have a 2000 park ave that jerks when you drive at 45 - 50 mph, you can even see about a 200 rpm jump on the tach. Have taken it everywhere and tried about everything but can't seem to find the problem. there is no code showing when hooked to scanner. Have changed plugs, wires fuel pressure diapham, seliniod pressure switchs in trany new torque converter, etc. and it still does the same thing. going broke, need help.

stlplyr · March 2006

The Gas Gauge needle on my 98 Buick Park Avenue has slipped past the pin, and is lodged to the left of the pin, how can I get at it to bend the pin inwards so this cannot happen again. Thank You! Al Udeen

imidazol97 · March 2006

I have read of this happening in another forum. Some drill very small holes through theplastic in strategic place so they can use a wire maybe a paperclip shaped to move the needle back where it belongs. They say it works fine after that.

wagon1966 · March 2006

yes i to had this problem, my transmission was banging into gear at about 45mph. i took it to the dealer and they found that the springs on the 1-2 and 3-4 overdrive vavle ports in the tranny were getting residue and not allowing the tranny fluid to bypass unrestricted for smooth shifting.they cleaned these vavle out on the vavle body of the transmission,they can do this without dropping the tansmission do not be fooled.i have a 1999 p/a also they added lucas transmission additive hope this helps,aamco wanted to do a complete rebuild.......

Karen_S · March 2006

A reporter in Southern California is looking to interview a retiree who has been very loyal to the Buick brand over the years, right up to the present. Please send an e-mail to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, March 22, 2006 containing your daytime contact information and a few words about the topic of interest.

Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

ingo1 · March 2006

My 2000 PA Ultra with 68000 miles started skipping. My dealer says I need new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. He quoted a fee of $400 for the plugs and wires installed. I realize that new plugs and wires may cost more than the $35 I paid when I was young, but $400 seems excessive. Am I being ripped off by the dealer?

mwills · March 2006

Maybe this will help. I had a '72 leSabre and an '85 PA with slight clinking noises that I could hear when driving past a hard wall such as road dividers or close buildings. The center decals in my wheel covers were held on by spring clips and were loose due to wear. They rattled as the wheel turned, and the noise was sometimes more noticeable when turning the steering wheel. If you have a wheel cover with a center decal, check this out. Good luck.

Buick Park Avenue

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