Buick Park Avenue

imidazol97 · April 2008

The grinding sound may be the ABS/Traction system applying the brake and releasing quickly. It may be doing that even though there's no slipping at that wheel like in a quick start. That may be why it was slowing the car down. For instance in rapid acceleration if the left front slips the brake on the left front is applied to to keep power going to the right front until the left front gets traction.

I saw a post where someone applied dielectric grease to the connections at the sensors on the hubs and reconnected them to reseal them on the fronts and that stopped the service stability system message.

fatguyinaz · April 2008

It's a grind like metal to metal. The 1st thought I had when I heard it was a vehicle that had NO front brake disc left and it was metal on metal. Of course this isn't what it is since we've had all the brakes replaced, calipers reworked, etc.

This only happens intermittently. Picture yourself driving along and everything is fine. Then you must make a right turn up ahead so you start to slow down. You apply the brakes (still all is fine) and once you start the turn to the right the grinding sound starts. Normally, when you release the brake during the right turn the sound and vibration will stop. It was just this last time it happened it did not stop when I released the brake. It even continued to hold when I pressed on the gas. My 1st reaction was to jerk the wheel slightly to the left then back again to the right and it released.

Road surface is smooth, dry, consistent (not loose).

Strange part is it doesn't always happen. I would say it's about 2 times out of 50 it will happen when I start a turn to the right while braking.

The sensor that was replaced was a steering sensor. Least that is what I was told by the Buick repair shop.

A person mentioned the wheel bearing so I have written this down on my list of suspects for the mechanic. It's very difficult to change to a different Buick mechanic. We are in the middle of nowhere, USA and this is the only Buick mechanic service around for 100's of miles.

I would like to thank you for your information. I will continue to watch and hope for more replies with more information. The more the better.

imidazol97 · April 2008

From listening, I'd check the connections at the wheel sensors. Pack them with dieelectric grease. Flex the wires to see if there's a break in the wiring that goes to the wheel sensors?

The wheel bearings in the hub could be a problem. But defective wheel bearings give a snow tire like buzz that grows louder and becomes easier to feel through the chassis. And they self destruct as they become worse with driving.

The sensor they replaced is on the steering column and tells the computer where the steering wheel is in its travel so that the computer knows if you are steering in a turn and that the car's not reacting and the VSC tries to apply single brakes in a manner to help turn the car based on what the steering input is requesting.

There are other sensors involved in telling the computer what the car is doing. There is a sensor on the rear package shelf that senses what the car is doing with regard to inertia, for example.

This sounds frustrating. The factors are: it happens when turning to the right; it reacts to flexing/moving the chassis parts left and right; it happens only when braking.

The connectors to the wheel speed sensors are flexed along with the wiring when turning. Does it happen turning to the left?

The streering wheel position sensor also is giving inputs during that time and is being moved when you move the wheel left and right.

The wheel bearing is also being changed in position during the turn and is taking forces differently than normal.

The brake pads and caliper and rotor are involved because you're braking along with the ABS/traction control system. A loose/worn wheel bearing could be letting the rotor and hub move relative to the wheel speed sensor. There's an air gap size that's needed there. If it become greater than it should be the sensor would lose its ability to read correct the wheel speed. It could be thinking the wheel ir turning faster than it should and apply that one brake to slow down the wheel--just like if it were slipping on ice.

I'm not an expert on these systems and I've read a lot of people on forums working on problems, but not quite like yours. Sometimes replacement wheel bearings have been a problem. New isn't always right. Stick with name quality brand if a wheel bearing is indicated.

If you work on your own car, I'd jack up the wheel and move the wheel 3 and 9 o'clock and see if you get looseness and do the same at 12 and 6. Don't move the steering links when you're testing and don't count the ball joint movement that may occur when jacked up. Then do the same on the left side. If there's a difference in amount, then I'd start thinking wheel bearing.

fatguyinaz · April 2008

Thank you for all the information. We are taking the car into the shop today to see if they can find the problem. I have printed all the information given to me from this forum and a couple of other forums. Hopefully they will figure it out with all this help.

lnaylor · April 2008

I have waited four years for people to start posting somewhere about this problem. My symptoms are the same and the car has been in the shop 6 times for it the latest time just last week (not fixed)

replaced hubs
replace ABS control twice
replace computer once

unable to reproduce systems 3 times even though the car once went home with the mechanic over 100 miles away

if anyone has an answer please email me it or for my phone number to tell me it and I will pay for the answer. I only have 3000 miles left on my warranty and want to fix it once and for all

jereo · May 2008

It"s NOT the car----it's the TIRES
I too had a vibration on my 99PA. Had the Goodyears removed and replaced with Michelins--------over 35000 miles ago and no problems.

smallbites · May 2008

Maybe one of you great folks can help. ABS light on, code reads left rear. Replaced assembly in left rear, light still on. (was able to return assembly

). Now looking for short in connections. Any idea where wire connects to ABS system, or for that matter, where ABS system is? I havn't crawled around yet and was hoping for a short cut. Thanks

russellburke · May 2008

All:
I am purchasing a 03-05 Park Ave Ultra and would like any comments, concerns current owners have with their Ultra's Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

bah23 · June 2008

I have a "bearing sounding" noise when engine is under load (e.g. A/C) at 1,100 - 1,200 rpm only. I've had the A/C compressor replaced and the alternator replaced but still hear the noise (although noise less intense since alternator replaced). So, after about $1,500 worth of repairs, I'm still hearing this noise.

Reputable autoshop (0 complaints on BBB last 3 years) doing work. Took it back after alternator was replaced and had owner and mechanic listen to the noise. All agree noise still present but less intense. Mechanic noticed a brace behind supercharger and alternator was missing and said that probably caused the bearings in the alternator and a/c compressor to fail due to excessive torque and I should have the brace replaced.

Any thoughts on my situation?

Thanks in advance

russellburke · June 2008

Howdy bah23:
The Supercharger (SC) coupler is your probable cause for the noise. The fine minds in GM engineering decided to run Eaton SC's on many models for a 40 HP boost. The 97-05's had a redeigned front snout with an oil capacity of 8 oz's compared to the old design (90-96) of 4 oz. Right around 75K miles, the forward gears / coupler will start to chirp and chatter under a minor load. This area of the SC runs extremely hot and the sump oil is the only cooling available inside the SC. The inner gear surfaces start to deteriate, the metallic fillings from the gears immerse / float in the oil, and lubrication properties diminish and the chatter and noise increases. The car will not skip or lose power and it will still move on down the road rather quickly! If the SC oil hasn't been changed out once or twice, during normal maintenance, the noise / chatter from the coupler will increase in tone. GM service manuals don't mention changing the SC oil at 40K or any mileage!! I own a 97 Ultra with 130K and R&R'd the SC back at 115K. The supplier for the SC is here in Edmond OK and is by far a premier overhaul shop for Eaton, Paxton and a bunch of other blowers and turbo's for the OEM and hot rod markets. Check out P S E Superchargers. 758 Enterprise Dr Edmond, OK 73013. (405) 844-2773 ... 900 N Santa Fe Ave Edmond, OK 73003-4337. (405) 341-2900 ..I located them thru a Buick owners web forum. The owner gave me a shop tour and I purchased a rebuilt / replacement unit ($500 with core) and changed it out a few months back. I worked for Buick, AMC / Jeep back in the 70'-80's while in college and still do a lot of my own maintenance keeping the fleet running. Best of luck and keep in touch. RB

gcraig · June 2008

While wiring a trailer my left running light went out on the car and the trailer, (right afer I fixed a poor ground connection for the left light on the trailer). It worked for a minute then went out along with the back left car light. I replaced the car bulb but still it won't work. I checked the fuses under the hood and they seem fine. Is there another fuse box or something I might be missing here?

gcraig · July 2008

I love my '98 PA but there is a problem with the '97 or '96 thru '99 (?) PA's you need to know about. The intake manifolds are made of a composite (plastic type) material that degrades over time with heat from the exhaust that is recycled through it for emissions control. Mine just stopped running one day and when I had it towed in the dealer wanted over $1000 to fix it. I was told i was lucky that the overflowing coolant from the hole in the intake manifold didn't seize my engine and ruin it altogether which is, as they said, "common" for this year. I found a repair on line for $70 or so - a steel tube arrangement that is epoxy glued into the area where the break occurs. I'm an MRB (repair) engineer on Boeing Aircraft and feel the repair is excellent and used it, but nobody would do it for me because it's not "factory" authorized. Anyway, if I buy another PA from this era I would put in the repair right off the bat before I risked the damage possible from a leak. It took me a while since I'm not really a talented mechanic. I cant recall where I bought the repair but if you do a few internet searches you should find it. Good luck!

gcraig · July 2008

I posted this earlier but it must not have made it 'cause I can't find the post now. Sorry if it's a repeat.
I replaced my rotors and brake pads (used high quality ones). Over time vibration is increasing - again. Now its so bad that I'm going to be turning my new rotors to smooth our the ride. Do you think its the calipers ruining the rotors by causing them to overheat? Or, is this a typical design-type error for this vehicle? Or, is it something else? Thanks for any suggestions anyone can give me.

imidazol97 · July 2008

The post was from 2004. The company is APN I believe. It's a popular item for the small fraction of cars from 1996 to 1999 that have the EGR tube deteriorate due to the heat going through it. Dorman also makes a replacement manifold with a replacement EGR metal tube that is placed into the lower intake manifold. It has increased air clearance.

Any shop that does repairs would have put in the manifold for you. A GM store probably wouldn't.

gcraig · July 2008

Oops! I wondered after I sent the post in reply when he had submitted his post! I'm pretty new to this kind of site. Sorry but thanks for the info!

gcraig · July 2008

I have 3 questions.
1) Does anyone know where I can get an ashtray from the front dash of a 98 P.A.? I bought one yers ago and it's broken again (the latch has snapped off. color is unimportant as I can rebuild it but cost is important and I'm looking for a used one from a wrecking yard. Thanks.
2) My windows are giving me some trouble. The back left one will not roll down all the time. Once in a while it works, then it stops working for months. Luckily it is always in the up position when it stops functioning.
Also, my passenger side front window rolls dosn fine some times but then it won't roll down all the way when the weather is rainy. It stops about 3/4" fromt he top and will go back up but seems stuck or jammed up somehow.
3) My driver's side door latch broke inside somewhere. It just went "Click" and it seems that the mechanism has failed inside the door since the handle flips up easily but doesn't engage the latch.

Thanks for help with any of these three items.

dafraq · July 2008

Hello, I am considering buying a PA Ultra with 52,000 miles on it. I am not familiar with Buicks and I would like to know if there are any service issues I should be aware of. What I do know is that the fuel gauge does not work. It appears to have gone clockwise and is resting below the needle under the E. The A/C does not work. I feel like these are minor issues but are they repairable? Are these typically good cars?

Thank you,

David

imidazol97 · July 2008

The gas gauge needles are fixable. People have removed dash cover and lifted the needle over the post. Some drill a small hole in the plastic and use a paperclip to lift the needle. Someone else talked about using a magnet to lift it.

97ultra · July 2008

The gas gauge problem is easily fixable. Same thing happened on my '97 Ultra when I disconnected and reconnected the battery one time, and I used a strong magnet to turn the needle and fix it. Just wrap the magnet in a paper towel or Saran wrap so you don't scratch the clear plastic of the instrument panel. I can't remember if you have to have the ignition off or on, but it does matter.

The A/C situation is something you'll want to have someone look at (take it to an A/C shop and have them do a system check and possibly a leak test). If it's just a very slow leak that you can deal with by adding refrigerant and a system-safe leak sealer, it's no big deal (my PA has had a slow leak from the compressor for around a hundred thousand miles now).

If the compressor is shot, though, then you are looking at an expensive repair. The PA uses GM's luxury-car compressor that doesn't cycle on and off like cheaper compressors do; instead, it smoothly varies the piston stroke so that you don't hear and feel the compressor cycling on and off. It's a neat system, but fiendishly complicated and expensive; to replace the compressor, you'd probably be looking at a thousand dollars or more. So definitely have that checked out.

IMO, the Park Avenue Ultra is an awesome car, though. Mine now has 170,000 miles on it, gets 30 mpg at 75 mph on the Interstate and ~20mpg around town, and is DARN quick. And I love the supercharger whine when it's on boost. It's also very comfortable and quiet, has a great sound system, heated seats, and lots of other amenities. I'd buy another used one if I were in the market to do so.

If you do buy it, change the supercharger oil (a lot of owners forget to do so) and the cabin air filters, or have someone do it for you; GM sells the special supercharger oil, and you'll need 2 bottles ($10 each). And I run synthetic engine oil in my engine, because I tend to run it hard.

imidazol97 · July 2008

The compressors range from $194 off-off brand to $328 Delphi and $280 Delco compressor. Of course if compressor broke and spun out parts the expansion valve and dryer need to be replaced and a filter put in before the system is restarted.

At 56000 miles I'd be surprised if the compressor were bad. Most likely freon leak.

Thanks for posting about the magnet use. I recall someone saying the magnet had to be s certain strength...

dafraq · July 2008

Thank you! I fixed the fuel gauge this morning. I am going to check out the a/c tomorrow. I appreciate your quick response. I am totally digging the PA. I spent all morning cleaning it up and it looks amazing--it had sat for 6 months and collected a ton of dirt and dust both inside and out. Now it looks spotless.

Thanks again!

David

dafraq · July 2008

Hey all,

I recharged the A/C today and I got cold air for a few minutes from the passenger side only and only hot air from the driver side. The cold air adjusted in coldness with the passenger slider but again the driver side and the rear vents only blew hot. I then drove it around for a while and no cold air came out any longer. I really would like to purchase this car but not without A/C. Any thoughts on the dual climate control issue and is this a most likely a leak since I managed to get cold air for a few minutes?

Thank you again,

David

imidazol97 · July 2008

The unit is electronic from what I find on that car. There is an actuator motor that controls the door movements and the blend or temperature on the driver and another on the passenger. That has gone out of some Pontiacs that probably have a similar unit to that one used in the last design of the Park AVenue. Finding if the door is being moved requires some upside down time under the dash and button pressing.

The AC giving cold for a time suggests that it has a leak. One common symptom of the 2000+ H Bodies is that low freon leaves the driver side warm and the passengers get air from the cold part of the evaporator.

The unit needs to be put on gauges and a check done.

wwstibich · July 2008

I had a similar problem with my 99 PA, but it was with the heater. The vent door became stuck on the passanger side. So the driver felt the heat but the passanger only felt the cold air from the vent.

I took it to the dealer who said it was a stuck vent door. The would replace the solinoid (or whatever controled the door) for @$250. They already charged me @$75 for the diagnostic (and used it to close the vent door).

I chose to leave it alone. It does come and go very intermittently. And because I usually drive alone it's not a problem for me.

Good luck

97ultra · July 2008

Sounds like the system has a bad leak. If you got cold air for a few minutes, the system was working properly, until the refrigerant leaked back out. You could take it to an A/C shop to see where the refrigerant is leaking (some parts are cheap to replace, some aren't) but it doesn't look like you'll be able to throw a can of R-134 in it and be good for the summer.

BTW, if a '97-'05 Park Ave system is low on refrigerant (but not completely out), the system will often cool only on the passenger side. It has something to do with where the inlet and outlet tubes of the A/C core are located relative to the airstream. I spent quite a while trying to diagnose a faulty air blend door last year, only to find out that my air blend door actuator was perfectly fine and the system was just a little low on refrigerant. Adding more refrigerant restored the system to bilateral functioning. (Note--do NOT do this until you've ruled out a blend door fault, or else you could end up overcharging the system and wrecking the compressor.)

What you may want to do, if you really like the car, is get an estimate from a *quality* A/C shop on how much the system would cost to fix, and then ask the buyer to knock that much off the price. Don't take it to an el cheapo shop, though, as the Park Ave system is more complex than your typical A/C setup.

buickman3 · July 2008

I don't know about questions 1 & 2 but number 3 I know about. I have a 1997 Park and had the same problem with the driver's door. The inside of the door has to be taken apart to reach the problem. As repairs go these days, the entire latch showing outside has to be replaced and has to be painted to match your vehicle. Parts & labor $140. My Buick dealer did the work.

dafraq · July 2008

Hey all,

Thank you for the great advice about my a/c and other questions. The PA is in the shop today. It turns out the condenser was leaking and they are fixing everything for 560.00. The owner is knocking that off the price so tomorrow I will be the proud owner of a 99 PA Ultra.

Thanks again,

David

imidazol97 · July 2008

>condenser was leaking

Thanks for coming back to tell us what you found! Good luck with your new PA.

scoobyfndoo · July 2008

This was common on my last PA as well as the one I own now. I read in the service manual that when the rotors are put on, the have to be checked for lateral runout. They have an extensive installation technique that includes cleaning both mating surfaces and then checking the lateral runout with a dial indicator. The tolerance is .002".....two thousandths of an inch. Smaller than a human hair (or at least mine) which seems to be extremely tight. For such an easy thing to get on and off, I will bet you a million $$$ that NO mechanic at the shop has ever done that. But, if that is what it requires, you could in your own driveway, spend some time and do this. I replaced so many rotors on my last PA that I will probably look into this. I have the tools at home, so it wouldn't be a big deal other than the time.

scoobyfndoo · July 2008

I recently had the dealer get the codes from my PA. It had it's TracOff and ABS lights on. They told me that it was the FL hub, which I then replaced at home. Now the lights still come on, but only after the car is put into Drive/Reverse. I thought at first it was when the car moved, but managed to coast all the way out my driveway without them coming on and then they only came on after I put it into drive. I know the old hub was bad, I checked for the resistance and found none (plus it was leaking) and this new hub doesn't immediately trip the light which the old one would do. Any ideas????

scoobyfndoo · July 2008

Today a garage has looked at it and looked for codes. They saw the LF hub in the history, but no codes are stored now and none are pending. Yet the lights for ABS and TracOff are still lighted. Sometimes from the start, sometimes if I roll but every time I put it into gear. I'm thinking a short somewhere maybe? Is there a fuse anyone knows about that I can pull to reset the BCM? I think that is the module for chassis? Anyone?

smallbites · August 2008

ABS light on. Chased problem to a resistance problem in the cable that runs from the speed sensors in the left rear hub to the main wiring harness. GM wants $250 for part. Anyone solved this problem other than new cable?

wornslick · August 2008

What is the best and cheapest way to get a ignition key made for a 2000 Park Avenue? I hear going to the dealer can be quite expensive. Thanks,

Wornslick

brucgraham · August 2008

My 2003 buick ultra has 103000 miles. I have been experiencing vibration or shimmy problems between 45 and 65 miles per hour. I purchased new quality goodyear tires and had them balanced and rotated three times with no success. They actually rotated the tire on the rim to fine tune the wheel balance I just came back this morning from a 1500 mile road trip to the street rod nats in Louisville. It shimmied the entire trip. Towards the end of the trip it began a more aggressive vibration. Its seems the vibration is in the rear however it is also intermittent, sometimes a slight front end vibration. I have read the comments to the problem. Do you think that there could be a problem with the rear suspension? The car is almost undriveable at mid range speeds. Any more ideas? Thanks

imidazol97 · August 2008

Were they roadforce balanced at a good shop? Here's a link that lets you find who has Hunter Roadforce 9700 balancers in your area.

If it were my money, I'd take the car to an alignment guy who's been in business a long tire and preferably one with a Hunter. He can check for bearing and other part problems. He also can check those Goodyear tires. My bet will the tires #1, and wheel bearing #2, and alignment front and rear #3.

At 103,000 miles you could have a wheel bearing that is loosening and wearing out.

The one tire that's going to be more round under load while rolling and stay round through the life is Michelin. That's probably what came on your PA.

schwenk1 · August 2008

Goodyear tires used to bug me on my 99 and 01 Park Avenues. On the 01 I changed to Michelin Symmentry and got a smooth vibration free ride. On my 03 Park Avenue I had them install Michelin Symmentry tires before I took delivery. Nice smooth riding with them so far (66,000 miles).

Stay away from Goodyear tires.

brucgraham · August 2008

The tires were roadforce balanced three times at a shop, Samaritan Tire MN, with a reputation of doing very good work. Today I took the car to Buick/Pontiac garage where they were kind enough to look at it but wanted to begin with the tires. I assured them the tires were properly roadforce balanced last week for the third time. I took it to the Chev garage and the first thing they did is take the wheel/tire off and checked the balance. Excessive road force on RR, was 39 lbs. It was corrected to 24 lbs. I again had all tires re balanced, this is getting expensive! Enough for the good work at samaritan. It ops tested a little better but still has vibration. Rear bearings appeared to be good. They did find a front wheel beaning with some wobble. They did not have a Delco bearning in stock and the mechanic recommended I use original part rather than a aftermarket part. I am not sure this is the pronblem but I will need to replace it prior to aligment. Tires did not have any noticable problems. Thanks for all the help.

brucgraham · August 2008

I most likely will have to deal with the Goodyears until they wear out! Maybe a aliment and bearning replacement will bring back a smooth ride. Thanks for the info on the Michelins.

imidazol97 · August 2008

> the tires were properly roadforce balanced last week for the third time. I took it to the Chev garage and the first thing they did is take the wheel/tire off and checked the balance. Excessive road force on RR, was 39 lbs. It was corrected to 24 lbs.

The maximum allowable for diagnosis on H-bodies for GM's troubleshooting is something like 18 pounds. My Michelins on the car when new were 12, 11, 9, 7. They did rotate one tire on the rim to reduce the effective roadforce. Those were Symmetry tires. This was in 2003.

My new Harmony tires on the same leSabre now were all under 10 when roadforce balanced at the local good mechnical and tire store at about 10000 miles. I wasn't satisfied with the regular balancing at the local store and went to the nearby store which has the roadforce balancer. I have a sensitive butt for balancing and vibration. I actually was happy with the standard balancing on the Harmonys when new; but when I had them rotated and rebalanced after 7-8000, they weren't nearly as good. Turns out the tech had three of the tires off by .50 ounce based on measurement at the roadforce balance store after 4-5000 miles of driving. Tires don't change that much.

The hint about Michelins comes from GM having trouble with the H and C bodies that were built on the technology of the Riviera and Aurora with the stiff chassis and light moving parts-like A-arms made of alloy. They started replacing tires on troubled cars with Michelins under factory warranty to trouble shoot them. The Cadillac Sevilles and leSabres with 16-inch Celebration wheels shipped with Michelins; some Park Avenues and leSabres had high level Firestones on the 16-inch rims. Standard leSabres used General tires that were very soft and easy rolling.

When the service manager was having the alignment checked on my car at 11,000 miles, he pointed to the other brand of tires they were putting on a Grand Am in the dealership. The roadforce amounts on the balancer were in the 20s on the brand of tire.

The problem is you are trying to balance doughnuts. Does the store who sold you the Goodyears sell Michelins. As them for a trade allowance.

dafraq · August 2008

Hi all,

I was doing some inspecting around the bottom of my doors because the rubber door seal (flashing?) has rusted loose on the driver's side. It appears that the metal screws used to hold the rubber in place have begun to rust out and in turn have rusted the bottoms of the doors. It is not as bad on the passenger side but it is beginning.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does anyone know where I can get new rubber flashing?

What is a tried and true way to stop rust in its tracks?

The car is nearly mint and I want to keep it that way. Love the PA!

Thank you,

David

imidazol97 · August 2008

There was a paint for rust that turns it black. It contains sulfur IIRC and chemically combines with rust and free iron to give a black coating which can then be painted.

You are at the point where you should take off the door panel and take off the water barrier that's caulked to to the door and directs water down to drain holes to go back outside the rubber seal through holes in the bottom of the door. I would expect there's been blocked holes on the bottom of the door that drain the water out.

I'd paint the inside of the bottom of the door with the above mentioned chemical paint and then make sure the drain holes are open and the plastic and caulk feeds the water that gets to the inside of the door (down the window) goes to the holes. The caulk should be new, black sticky stuff on the lower part.

I'd check into the push pin type replacements for the metal screws--Lowes has them in their bolt and screw drawers.

Check this link for a good door picture set.

dafraq · August 2008

Thank you for the info. The picture set is great. If you look on the top picture on page 3, my problem is with the black rubber stripping on the bottom of the doors that runs the length of the car on both sides on the outside. Do you happen to know what that piece is called? Do you think I can get away with just replacing that piece and use the push pin screws after fixing the rust or should I venture into the door panels?

Thanks again,

David

sylsevilsis · August 2008

My Front Left/ Right Door handles broke. I've searched everywhere online as to where I can get replacement parts. But non to avail. Anyone have any recomendations? Iv'e seen Buick Century's door handle and they look similar. By any chance would they fit? :sick:

imidazol97 · August 2008

Inside? Outside handles?

Have you checked Ebay?

Rockauto.com
gmpartsdirect.com

sylsevilsis · August 2008

I have checked ebay,Theres none. The handles are for the outside. Which I think is the most common problem I've read around this forum.

waynezo · September 2008

Haven't visited in awhile. To answer your question about the door handles, NO the Century handle won't work. Neither will the Impala or the Bonneville. The Park Ave mechanism is a different configuration on the back of the handle. They won't interchange. I pulled them all one afternoon in a yard and only the Park Ave. will work.
I've replaced both drivers side handles on mine. I got the first at Rockauto. They no longer list them. I got my rear handle from a salvage yard. You can order them from a GM dealer, but they're wicked expensive.
A tip. Mine broke because the doors were frozen shut. If you pull up too hard and try to force the door open you'll break the arm off on the back side that activates the opener rod. Get a stiff wide blade puttyknife and put it in the groove between the body and door and pry with that when the doors are frozen shut.
I know it's a pain at 6 a.m. and it's zero outside, but it's a lot less time consuming than replacing handles everytime it's cold out.

waynezo · September 2008

Go here for replacement parts for the Park Ave.

http://www.buy-oem-parts.com It's in NJ. Replacement handles are around $50. Have a good one.

gregb183 · October 2008

I just purchas a 1998 Park Ave (Std not Ultra) and notice that there's a "garage button" as well as two other buttons( not sure what these are) in the front center headliner. How do I go about programming it to open my garage door?

imidazol97 · October 2008

Go here

http://www.homelink.com/programming/programming.taf

for programming how to. You need to know the brand of your garage door opener and the other automated things you wish to open. The other buttons can be for interior units that turn on house lights from your car so you don't have to enter a darkened home or to open your automatic gate at the drive up to your estate (I don't have one of those). I just programmed all three for my garage door so I don't have to be careful which one I hit in my LeSabre.

The info should be in your owners manual in the glovebox if it's in there.

mikuh · October 2008

I am trying to help a friend of mine correct a problem caused by a heavy handed machanic that while trying to fix one problem, caused another. When he dropped the steering column, he forgot to unhook the cable clip that connects the cable to the shift indicator gage. He unknowingly broke the plastic arm on the back of the gage and threw out the broken part as he cleaned up the floor mat.

Where can I get another gage or perhaps a photo of the back of the gage so I can fabricate another arm and epoxy it to the remaining plastic hub on the back of the gage? Any help or suggestions will be greatly appriciated.

David

Buick Park Avenue

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