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Buick Park Avenue

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Comments

  • garcia61879garcia61879 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 94 buick pa and my radio constantly changes stations and my ac and heater go from 60 to 90 then back and forth all the time can anyone tell me what i cn do to fix this :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    My very first check would be the ground buss bar that's under the door frame plastic at the bottom of the A pillar. It's a bundle of wires with a bar that corrodes if lots of moisture stays present. Since you have two problems I'd begin with that.

    Well maybe I'd check the positive cable on the battery for corrosion between the two separate positive cables that are both clamped to one post. Separate them and check for corrosion. Check the ground wire while you're there.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 97ultra97ultra Member Posts: 14
    Could be a problem with the wiring harness that connects the steering wheel buttons to the components in the dash. One of the big things both the stereo tuner and the heater temperature controls have in common is that both are connected to the steering wheel buttons, so check that wiring carefully for kinks, worn insulation, etc. and for proper button function (no shorts), etc.

    Be careful around the airbag when you're messing around with wiring under there, though.
  • 64ss64ss Member Posts: 1
    can someone tell me how to replace my leaking side cover gasket on my 1995 buick park ave?
  • xman3xman3 Member Posts: 3
    For what its worth, 97 park ave door handle was repaired by supergluing broken tab back to body and then drilling and taping with 4-40 screw--has lasted about 6 months
  • das1000medas1000me Member Posts: 4
    Good afternoon. I have a 1999 Buick PA with about 135,000 miles on it. For some time now my "Service Engine Soon" light has been on. My car, without much notice, will shut off whenever I stop at red lights, stop signs or slow down to turn corners. I took it to AZ and they put a little monitor beneath my dash board. It read "MAS" (Massive Airflow Sensor I believe). I bought the sensor, had it installed and the "Service ..." light went off - but only for about 1 week. Last Sunday, the second week since the light has been off, while driving to a store about 1.5 miles away all was fine. When I left the store, however, a block away my car seemed like it was gasping for air (more like choaking) and cut off. After four attempts to restart it (when I turned the key in the ignition, I would hear it come on but it would not stay on), I finally got it going. It has not gone off since that time, but now I need inspection and I know it won't pass because of that darn light. Also, I've had the car for about four years and it has had a tune-up maybe once during that time. Needless to say, I want it fixed for safety reasons, too! Thanks!
  • maxamus1maxamus1 Member Posts: 1
    Will the outer door handle from 98 buick LaSaber work.
  • raina2raina2 Member Posts: 2
    hey, was wondering if anyone knows if I can use a 93' Regal engine in my 91' Park Avenue. Some things are different but if I can I make it work will the electrical and such be compatable with my car? What other engines can I use?
  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Member Posts: 41
    just pur. a '02 PA has exact same problem on pass. fr. door. did you resolve your problem, if so how. thanks. 10/7/09.
  • dano32dano32 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1991 park ave. a few weeks ago it wouldn't start due to no spark. i ended up replacing the module and it woked fine for a couple of weeks before dying while moving when my daughter was driving it. i again i didn't have spark and didn't think it was the module again, and the coil pack wasn't arcing out like they do , so i replaced the cam and crank sensors....nothing. I got a used module off a car with a bad tranny so i knew it worked. the car started and ran for about ten seconds before dying and not starting again. is my module getting fried? is it possible my coil pack is shorting internally and damaging my module? i hate to go buy a coil pack and 100$ module to test my theory. is there anyway to test the module and coil pack???

    thanks,

    guy who should've spent more on his daughters school car!!
  • bowleebowlee Member Posts: 5
    1998 Buick Park Avenue Driver Side Door Handle Replacement

    A tip broke off an arm like protrusion on the back of my door handle - supergluing did no good as I was able to easily snap it off again. A replacement handle was $93 at my dealer (ouch). I replaced it in about 2 hours, working slow and carefully - all is well now.

    Put window up. Remove the inner door panel by removing 3 screws total. Two are located in the arm rest (below the little plastic panel that can be removed using a flat blade screw driver – it needs to be bent up slightly), and the other screw is located behind the door light (use flat blade screw driver to pop out the light). Lift the panel up and a number of clips behind the panel will release as you lift the panel up. Disconnect the wire harness.

    There is a black vinyl covering stuck with some kind of black putty to the inner door below the panel. It can be pulled away enough to access the door handle area without removing it completely. I had to pull it off the top two black plastic fasteners and left side, but was able to leave the right side and bottom still stuck on.

    Unclip the lock latch rod (bottom black clip), remove the two bolts holding the handle – the left side bolt is a little trickier to get at and you’ll need a small 10mm wrench to get at it. The right bolt is easily accessible. The handle will now partially pop out. You now need to unhook the upper latch rod (black clip). The handle will now come out.
    Don’t worry if you drop one of the bolts in the door – you can easily reach a thin arm down to the bottom of the door!

    Take the key lock out and put it into your new handle and follow these steps backwards to put your door back together.">
  • brian1998brian1998 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Park Avenue and I replaced my rear shocks. How can i tell if my load leveling compressor is working? Also is it possible to upgrade the rear deck speakers if they have a amplifier. Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    On my H-bodies I own the compressor runs for about 3-5 seconds after the key is on for 30-40 seconds.

    Turn your key on and go stand beside the rear or the car. You'll hear the compressor run to adjust the pressure in the shocks.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 99ultra99ultra Member Posts: 1
    First to check your load leveling system toss a bunch of heavy crap in the trunk, you should hear the compressor kick on and see the rear end raise up.

    Second the rear speakers, I replaced my rear decks with pioneer speakers from cruthfield, you will need to get some adaptive stuff at the local parts store to make the conections. I did not do anything else and the upgrade is well worth it.
  • bowleebowlee Member Posts: 5
    THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! My 98 PA has had this fuel gauge issue for a few years and I've been reluctant to drill a hole in the plastic - the magnet trick worked like a charm!!! If it happens again, I'll know what to do. By the way, the dealership said it would be about $1000 to put in a new instrument panel to fix the problem. My PA looks as good as new now.
  • harpguyharpguy Member Posts: 2
    My Park Ave will not shift from 2nd to third. Bought used. OD has never shifted properly
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,638
    hey guys. I picked up a 2000 Park Ave Ultra on December 12, so I figured I should drop by in here and say hi! Previous car was a 2000 Intrepid, bought brand-new, that ran fine, but alas, was totaled when someone pulled a hit-and-run on it in a restaurant parking lot.

    Here's a pic of the new beast...
    image

    It had around 56,300 miles on it when I bought it, although I've only put about 260 on it since I've had it. It was previously owned by a 65 year old lady who bought it new, and traded on a 2010 LaCrosse CXS. Hopefully it'll last a long, long time!
  • jay321jay321 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks so much for the "magnet" method to fix this. I just fixed my father in law's 1998 Park Avenue that had a fuel needle and temperature needle stuck below the stop peg. You just saved me a lot of time. I was able to rotate the fuel needle with a magnet in about 20 seconds, the temperature gauge was a little trickier but with some patience, it took about 10 minutes to nudge the needle counterclockwise. A great trick!
  • harpguyharpguy Member Posts: 2
    95 Park avenue will not shift from second to third or OD. Would changing filter help or is it shot ?
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Hey guys:

    I used a 8" long drill bit I got 15 years ago at Wright Hardware in Costa Mesa
    CA so I also made it 1/8" drill size ,I like the plug idea I might use it.. My hole is so
    small that it only the size of paper clip. If my gas gets under 1/4 tank it does
    the same thing over and over again so I keep the paper clip in the junk box between
    the seats. Has anyone had to replace or repair the cup holder yet? Has anyone
    got the oil pressure read out un working? 99 Park Ultra
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >Has anyone got the oil pressure read out un working?

    What does the oil pressure do? A common failure of the sender is to peg the unit or give a readout of 120 psi on the DIC. The sender screws in above the oil filter on the normally aspirated 3800s.
    You might do troubleshooting by removing the wire or wires at the sender.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Wow, I just started experiencing the vibration ,The car original tires were Goodyear.
    What type size are you using ? At the moment I have a mishmash of 3 different
    brands. I thought it might be the shocks. I will try the Michelin's..
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Been there done that and replaced the switch no help. I have been told it more than likely at DIC or instrument panel short. Next time I see a 99 junker maybe I will
    grab the entire panel. Now that I have visited this great forum I now how to remove it!
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    # 3 happened to me too. I also went into the door and found the broken pot metal
    finger the actuates the rod that interfaces with the door latch. In my process the
    latch lock male part in the door. I simply drilled a small hole into the pot metal
    of the outside door handle and screwed a brass screw I had in my junk can. Used
    Electrical tape to make the lever the right outside demension. Mechanically that
    metal finger broke because the door latch was dying . The Door Latch is manufactured
    with two parts sandwiched together the actuator helt together by 2" rivets. The Actuator can be bought at auto-zone for 19.00. You can drill out the rivets than
    attach the actuator by 2" threaded stove bolts and nuts 1/8". Plug in the plugs
    and attach the lock done. In my case the actuator the ELECTRICAL part died
    the door latch was fine. I do not like to paint and match because the diamond
    white triple coat is a bear to get right.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    I just hold my remote ,point it toward the homelink press the buttom front garage door
    1 middle for gate and rear for garage door two. Hit the reset button on DIC and it is done. If you wish I can scan the original owners manual for you.
  • bpafriendbpafriend Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how to resest the Tire Pressure Monitoring System? I had a flat that I fixed a week ago. All the tires are at 32 psi and the system is still telling me that "tire pressure is low". I tried to hit the reset button to the left of the steering wheel but it does nothing! I bought the car in June of 09 with 122,000 miles on it and it did not come with a manual. Any help would be great, thanks in advance. P.S. shortly after buying the car I had to have the ckp sensor replaced. And because of the GREAT advice here knew exactly what was wrong. Thanks guys.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited February 2010
    When the driver information center is showing the tire pressure, push the reset button and hold for about 5 seconds. It should reset that way.

    Sign up at http://www.gm.com/gmownercenter/gm/ and you can read the owner manual on there. I tried to download one but haven't been successful.

    After you register your vehicle, which you can do without VIN number, just make year etc., it has a little text area to let you download a pdf of the owner manual.

    The manual is free. Do not pay for it anywhere.

    You can send an email address to my email and I'll send the downloaded manual to you. Click on my user name at top of this post and read my profile; the email is at the end.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 97ultra97ultra Member Posts: 14
    The tire pressure monitoring system uses the ABS wheel speed sensors to tell if one wheel is starting to spin faster than the others (which would occur if the tire pressure gets low). As a result, I believe you're supposed to reset it when the car is moving in a straight line, i.e. on the highway, so the computer can get the baseline data from the wheel sensors. With the tire pressure monitoring message displayed, hold down the reset button until it resets.
  • 2collies2collies Member Posts: 13
    I just purchased a 99 park avenue and there is a noice in the dash that sounds like someone is pumping up a blood pressure monitor. It will do it for about a minute and then stop. Any ideas about this problem?
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    My guess is you're hearing the electric actuators that move the doors inside the heater box.

    Turn the heater to OFF. Then turn the key to OFF.

    Turn key to ON, and see if the noise occurs after waiting several seconds.

    Then turn the heater to ON and see if the noise occurs then.

    You might have an actuator that's not working right or a gear is stripped or slipping inside. If the air direction choices work right and the temps adjust correctly, everything is probably okay.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 2collies2collies Member Posts: 13
    I have seen different ways to remprogram a fob for my 99 park avenue on here. Before I try another, I was wondering if anyone had any luck by jumping pins 4&8 method.
    I have an old fob from a 2000 impala that has the same FCC ID# on the back of the one that currently works for my park avenue. Am I correct in assuming it will work for the park avenue also?
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Check the other number to see if they are the same. On mine it's GM/UTA which must be the manufacturer of that FOB.

    If your Impala unit doesn't match, search on EBAY for the GM/UTA number and see what matches you get from sellers.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bawlmercbawlmerc Member Posts: 17
    Charged the battery on my 2000 Park Ave. then switched the charger to start mode. Car started fine after cranking over for 20 seconds. Now the radio does not work. Any thoughts?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Check the fuses, which you've probably already done.

    It might have gotten a spike with the charged battery and the charger both cranking the motor.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bawlmercbawlmerc Member Posts: 17
    Looked into my owners manual and can not find which fuse is for the radio. before I start taking things apart I would like to be certain of which fuse and type to replace. TIA. :sick:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited March 2010
    In the fuse block under the rear seat, #11 and #17 are both radio related.

    If you know how to use a voltmeter/ohmmeter, the best thing is to pull the fuse and test for continuity with the tester.

    Note that in that block, #16, 21, 23, 24 are spares. So you might be able to switch your fuses with a new one in the spare slot.

    The second fuse block is under the passenger side dash. Take off the hush panel with a few screws under the dash. There are 4 spare fuses there BUT NONE of the fuses appear by the label to be radio related.

    I don't see any that seem to be radio related under the hood in that fuse block.

    I notice on page 3-31 of your owners manual it says, "If your battery loses power for any
    reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret code
    before it will operate."

    Does the radio show "LOC"?

    do you find a 3 or 4 digit code number in the papers in the glovebox?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bheritagebheritage Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    On both front seats the front and rear lift adjustments don't work because the gears have been stripped. Does anyone know where I can get replacement motor/gear boxes without buying the seat track.

    Also my car has a TWO pin connector on the oil pressure sensor, I have not been able to find another. Every one I see has 3 pins.
    BTY the service manual only shows the 3 pin connectors.
  • monique4monique4 Member Posts: 2
  • monique4monique4 Member Posts: 2
    my a/c only blows on right side. Replaced condensor and added fresh freon. Also can't find leak.
  • sslandysslandy Member Posts: 5
    My son has a 2000 Park Ave as his first car. I was trying to get the cigarette lighter to work in case Santa brings him a GPS. I pulled the rear seat and the a lot of the fuses are missing. The spares are gone as well as all the cigarette lighters. Does anyone know what size fuse goes in slot numbers 8, 22, 26 and 27? I have the manual but I can't find it in there. Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    The covers for the fuse blocks have a diagram and the word labels for each by number give the amp rating for each fuse. I looked on my 03 leSabre--related chassis. As far as the missing fuses, I believe that's common in mine. This body was related to the Avalon and Riviera, IIRC, as well as the STS, leSabre. There may have been common uses among those so the empties are there.

    I checked the glove box manual for your car and the amps are not listed in there. If I recall there are cigar lights in the rear doors on those? But my lighter and aux outlet are in the dash and the fuses are under the hood for mine.

    My car has 20 amp for the cigar lighter and the auxiliary power. Also, one or both of those have the ability to be plugged in adjacent by one notch which makes them stay on permanently rather than turning off with the key or the delayed power control. I.e., there are three plugs, and the fuse can be in A&B, or B&C.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • glibritzglibritz Member Posts: 4
    I own an 98 Buick A Ultra. The mechanic I purchased it from told me that I could use Plus grade gasoline, but that using regular will cause the car to ping or knock. So I just listened to him and intermix both plus and premium grade gases.
  • ibanezisgodibanezisgod Member Posts: 4
    1994 buick park avenue fully loaded.

    okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.
  • parkaveproblemparkaveproblem Member Posts: 5
    have you tried the mas airflow sensor? Had the same problem with mine and that fixed it. The way to check it is to simply unplug it and start the car. It will instantly run better if that's whats wrong. It is located on the drivers side in the back of the engine. Good luck
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited June 2011
    1, The odd actions of some of the dash components makes me wonder about the grounding. On leSabres up to 99, there were ground buss connections bundled into the wiring under the plastic door sill and carpet at the front of the door opening next to the A-pillar. I believe they are on both sides. This corrodes for some people. It's covered with wrapping tape. Clean the connections, coat with dielectric or something to protect and reinstall.

    Some people could hit that area with their heel and change the connection in the ground buss due to the corrosion. You might see if that affects it.

    Are you in an area with lots of rain or snow so that moisture (slush with salt) gets dripped there as your feet come into the car over the years?

    image

    2. The weak power when it won't start that causes relays to not work sounds like connections at the battery or grounds under the hood area. The battery has double or multiple positive cables. Pull those apart and look at the lead spacer in between for corrosion. Those are available new for replacement. Also cut back into the copper cable and pull the plastic back tosee if the cable has been corroded by battery acid and is partly eaten up.
    Check the lower ends of the positive cable at the starter. You might want to remove ground wire from battery first to prevent arc overs if you remove and retighten connections.

    3. The starter might not be making connection. Locate the starter housing under the front of the motor. Have someone tap on it with a hammer while you turn the key to crank, especially when the VATS system appears to not be allowing engine crank.

    Does the security light flash on and off after you try the key 3 times and it fails to crank? That's the VATS system. When you insert key and turn to ON, there should be a short flash of the security light as the TDM reads the code resistance to match to the original the first time it was started at the factory. does the light stay on meaning a mismatch? Or does the light go off after turning the key until the third try to crank?

    4. 1994 and 1995 models in leSabre have the most failures and anomalous problems due to the computers. If someone has one you can switch with yours, that would be good. I've read a lot of posts where people chased problems that would come and go giving all kinds of symptoms and codes at times. Then they find the computer replacement fixed it.

    They are relatively cheap for replacement. I believe you transfer your chip from the old one to the new one. But you are getting other symptoms than just codes or poor running at times or dying. I think you have other problems or combinations, especially since the car has sat for a time.

    The Park Avenue and leSabre were so similar they were combined into the same factory service manual for 1993 and I assume up to 1995 when they changed to the newer, Riviera/Aurora body and chassis derived automobile.

    Good luck.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • pilot24pilot24 Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the solution to resolve the service stability service light ?
  • pilot24pilot24 Member Posts: 2
    Did you get a resolution to the Service Stability System problem?
  • randoldjrandoldj Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Buick Park Avenue. Recently, it has started to make a humming noise that increases in pitch with an increase in road speed. It is noticeable at all speeds above 10MPH. I have used a laser thermometer on all of the hubs and there is no real difference in hub temperature after a long drive. The front hubs run a little hotter than the rear ones, but side-to-side, the temperature readings are consistent. I have tried the swerve test, with no difference in sound by swerving left or right. I have jacked up the car and shook all 4 of the wheels and found no noticeable play in any particular wheel. I actually magnetically attached a small video camera to each of the fenders and made videos of each of the tires in motion and there were no audible or visual differences in the videos. The car has 132,000 miles on it. I have had each of front wheel bearings replaced since I have owned the car. The left one was replaced about 4 years ago and the right one 2 years ago. NAPA parts each time. I have never replaced the rear wheel bearings. I put new tires on the car about 2 months ago but did not notice the noise then. The traction light and the ABS light have been on since April but I have yet to investigate this issue. Any help in diagnosis would be appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Tell us about the tires you put on. Brand, tread type, speed rating, and mileage guarantee. I wonder if your tires are a higher speed rating than original and make a noise with harder rubber. That will be possibly true with higher mileage tires. Or just a coarse tread pattern...

    Have you checked air pressure and set it to the door jamb recommendation to test?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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