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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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Comments

  • imadad2imadad2 Member Posts: 79
    I just had a 2000 Prizm "check engine" light problem. I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and the problem was solved. The mechanic I talked to stated that he checks the mass air flow sensor first before anything else and 90% of the time, that is what it is. Good luck.
  • coleynacoleyna Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 geo prizm question....the knobs for the climate control broke off.so a friend brought me some misc knobs to put on there.they kept falling off.so another friend thought it would be a good idea to super glue them on.not a good idea.the knobs were froze.upon turning them they busted off with the male part stuck into the knob.will i have to buy a whole other climate control or can this be fixed? thank you
  • coleynacoleyna Member Posts: 3
    ok i am reposting this ....because i probably did it wrong the first time.
    I have a 1997 geo prizm question....the knobs for the climate control broke off.so a friend brought me some misc knobs to put on there.they kept falling off.so another friend thought it would be a good idea to super glue them on.not a good idea.the knobs were froze.upon turning them they busted off with the male part stuck into the knob.the fan is stuck on med-low. will i have to buy a whole other climate control or can this be fixed? thank you
    Colette
  • dougleeknowlesdougleeknowles Member Posts: 5
    I recently replaced my 1993 Prizm with 160k miles with a 2001 Prizm with 60k miles, which I bought for $6000. It's the base model, though it does have the 4-speed automatic. I'm wondering if anyone else finds the last generation Prizm to be noisier, particularly clunks from bumps in the road. The new car is a perfect replacement for the old Prizm--a commuting appliance, boring but dirt cheap to own--except for the noise.

    I checked the spare in the trunk, and made sure it was tightly secured, as well as the jack, but whenever I go over a moderate-sized bump in the road, it seems noisier than the old car. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the back end of the car.

    In looking in the trunk, I noticed that there seems to be very little sound barrier between the trunk and the passenger compartment. I was wondering if it would make sense to bolster the barrier between trunk and passenger compartment with some kind of sound-deadening material. The first thing that came to mind was my wife's old yoga mat.

    Any ideas?
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    The noise you described sounds like a bad strut (suspension component). If it makes a loud clunk only when going over a pothole or sharp speed bumps, you should suspect the struts.
  • dougleeknowlesdougleeknowles Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the suggestion. Is there a way I could visually check for a strut problem without having the car on a lift?
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    I don't know of a way to test this for sure...
    Put the car on a jack, and try to push up the suspected wheel. Some say if you can lift the wheel up by hand, the suspension mount is worn. Can someone verify this?

    What you can do easily is to make sure that it is not the jack or spare tire in the trunk that is making the clunking sound over bumps.

    You could go for a test drive with a mechanic and see what he says. If a full replacement of strut assembly is recommended, you can call around and see if anyone will replace only the worn part.

    Good luck.
  • jetmonkey84jetmonkey84 Member Posts: 2
    No u don't have to r/r climate control, use industrial strength adhesive remover to unstick climate control linkage, clean surface, then re-attach, with stronger adhesive, such as appriate type of Epoxy.Find Epoxy at Auto part store., If ur initial attempt fails to remove adhesive, because the glue has leaked into climate control linkage lever slot, remove dashboard and center console, to axcess climate control mechanism, take it apart, use adhesive remover on stuck or sticky parts, then wash off any adhesive remover with water, then dry, then reassemble ur unit minus the knob then put dashboard and center console back together...good luck.... :)
  • coleynacoleyna Member Posts: 3
    Thank You for your reply(answer).Sounds like I'm gonna need alot of luck.
  • cf_pcf_p Member Posts: 1
    In a Prizm (2000) with no ABS, does the ABS gauge light serve any function, and should it light up when the ignition key is turned (or ever)? IOW, does this light test anything at all about the condition of ordinary brakes?

    Thanks!
  • scarygirlscarygirl Member Posts: 1
    One word: ignition. The whole thing is likely to go out at any second. That's what mine did. Just last week. I had the exact same problem as your daughter. Until recently, I thought it was me! I HIGHLY suggest that she get rid of this car now while she's ahead!

    Within the last year and a half I've spent $3600 due to one break down after the other. That doesn't include all the other repairs that it needs that I can't afford. At about 120,000 miles, this car turns to mush. So what it has a toyota engine, it just isn't worth it. If you fix this I guarantee you have a host of other problems just around the corner. If you have't already. This car is a sinking ship.

    While I'm all for paid off cars, this is riduculous. I so wish I had traded it six months ago.
  • usa2usa2 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 1996 Geo Prizm LSI with tan leather "faced" seats. It just turned 104K miles.. great car without any mechanical issues.

    I have had this commuter car ever since 11,000 miles but now need to repair or replace the side bolster of the driver side leather seat because of wear (and a tear).

    Does any one know a site that I can find a replacement leather (not cloth/cover) seat or a shop that repairs/re-upholsters leather seats?

    Thank you very much. Good forum...

    Joe :)
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    This is an old topic in the archives, but it may have some information useful for you.

    Maintaining Leather Maintenance/repair
  • rep5858rep5858 Member Posts: 45
    I have a 95 prizm with the 1.6 and 3 speed auto. When the car accelerates, decelerates and rides at highway speed there is a loud dull roar coming from engine area.I had new tires put on and new exhaust system, still noise there. Mechanic said it is the noise of the air induction coming through the duct system. I insulated this area and the firewall. Still hear the noise plain as dayy the engine .
    Does anyone know where this noise is REALLY coming from???Are there any solutions to solve this obtrusive noise. ?
    Thanks in advance
    rick
  • plevesqueplevesque Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Geo Prizm with 225,000 miles on it and I love it. It's hardly ever given me a problem. However, just yesterday my retractable driver-side seat belt went on me. I pulled it out to buckle my belt, heard a funny crunching sound from the mechanism, and realized that the belt wasn't retracting anymore. I have twisted it and turned it to try and get it to retract, but nothing works.

    I have priced replacement belts on the Internet and it looks like I can get something for $80 to $90 dollars. None of the Internet sites,however, give any hint whatsoever about removing the door post trim to get at the old seat belt mechanism. And I'm not finding anything helpful using Internet searches either. Is there anyone out there who can give me some tips on how to remove the trim without damaging it? I'm also a bit confused about how one gets at the upper anchor for the shoulder part of the belt. (It's attached to an adjustable post somehow, but for the life of me I can't see how to unattach it.) Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    Exact same thing happened to my car. Weird crunching noise and the belt does not retract...

    I ordered a replacement online ($80) so I'll post the result when I get the part.

    The plastic cover on the door post just comes off when you gently pull on it.

    The loop on the anchor for the shoulder part-if you look carefully you'll see that the anchor part can be popped open with a flat head screw driver. Once it is opened, you'll see a 14mm bolt (the same size as the lower anchor bolt) you have to remove and the thing comes off.

    M
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    Hey I hope this is not too late.
    I bet the noise is coming from the exhaust manifold. When you open the hood, you will see a big cast iron manifold located at the front of the engine, covered with a heat shield. (The part that burns your hand when you try to remove/install the oil filter!) The manifold cracks often on these cars, and exhaust gas that would otherwise exit through the muffler can leak a little bit, causing a loud noise upon acceleration and deceleration. The part is available at Advance Auto Parts for around $150 I think. You might be able to spot a crack in it without removing it.
    M
  • sunyvelsunyvel Member Posts: 2
    Hi ppl,
    I have bought a geo prizm 97 model, 1.6L. It is so far running well. I was going to change the spark plug, when i ended up with some issues.

    According to Haynes manual, the gap is 0.031.
    According to automoile spare shops like, orielly, walmart etc, the gap is 0.042 for a 97Prizm and 0.032 for a 97 corolla.

    I am not sure which one is correct. Can someone help me here?

    If the walmart gaps are correct, then how come corolla and prizm have different settings if they are the same?

    Thank you
  • imadad2imadad2 Member Posts: 79
    Some plugs have a different gap than what the manufacturer instructs. Check with the auto parts store to see if that is the case. If not, your owners manual should have gap information in it. If that fails, I would go with the gap on the Haynes manual. That is the standard for the automotive industry. Unless the folks at the stores looked up the information on a computer, I would not believe their gap information. Good luck.
  • sunyvelsunyvel Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply. I bought the same NGK plugs specified in the manual (both user's and the haynes). the user'd manual does not does not have info about the gaps. the haynes manual shows 0.031. but the auto store computer shows 0.042 for prizm and 0.032 for corolla.
    My doubt here is whether the auto store database is wrong. This is because, if corolla and prizm are the same then they should have the same gaps. and 0.032for corolla is close to 0.031 from haynes.

    So I am a bit confused. :confuse:
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    My 2cents: If the car is running properly, there is little need to worry about the plugs. Modern engines burn clean and unless the plugs are fouled, melted, or badly worn, I see no need to replace them. If you are getting the right performance and mpg from the car, don't worry about it. If the plugs are indeed bad, in addition to changing them, you will need to address the root cause of the plug failure.
    I would presume the dealer has the correct info regarding the gap.
    M
  • trouble4trouble4 Member Posts: 2
    I have an engine with the numbers 4A 8802927. Can anyone tell me what the &*^&^% it is? It's in a 1990 Geo Prism if that's any help...
  • dougleeknowlesdougleeknowles Member Posts: 5
    It's the beloved Toyota 4A. Here's a Wikipedia entry:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#4A
  • trouble4trouble4 Member Posts: 2
    Thank You... You have no idea how many headaches this thing has caused. It's been a really great first car for my son but tuning it without the proper specs is a nightmare!
  • phild_masonphild_mason Member Posts: 99
    I am looking at picking up a '98 Prizm for my daughter to use as a school car. Any advice from anyone regarding typical trouble spots to look at?

    It is an LSI with 104k. Very clean. The front door auto locks don't work, not too big a deal. It also will need brakes and perhaps rotors, but that looks like a decent diy job.

    thanks for your thoughts.
  • zws284zws284 Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same car - '98 Prizm with just about 105k miles on it. It's been a great car. I've only had two minor things go wrong (both in the last 10k miles or so):

    -Heating/AC Fan went out (this was an easy repair - fix
    of a resistor). Just check if the fan works at all
    speeds - mine gradually went from not working at hi-
    speed to eventually not at low speed either.

    -Radio dying (more major of a fix - the amplifier
    completely died). Pretty easy to tell if this doesn't
    work.

    Good luck with the car, I'm hoping to get at least 150k out of mine.
  • gjabour74gjabour74 Member Posts: 3
    Got a 92 Prizm, 178K, Throttle wants to stay open at about half position. When the throttle is opened to wide open throttle, it will not release/decelerate; throttle cable seems to be ok. Replaced TPS ( throttle position switch) Not the problem, Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    $80 seatbelt replacement turned out to be a "universal fit", although the search engine with the year model and make returned that part. Be careful with those. I see them on ebay too, but if you examine the picture carefully, you'll know it won't fit. Also, if the same part can be used for many different cars like GMC trucks and corollas, that's a dead giveaway--there is no way those two vehicles would have the same seatbelt.

    Dealer part costs about $150. I will start calling junk yards around my area.
  • sexysamsexysam Member Posts: 1
    please help my 94 prizm, i need to listen to my cd's without having to install an after market radio. can i use a corolla radio or not because i might have one.
  • thacherthacher Member Posts: 15
    So is the GSI another term for the BASE model?
  • karndtkarndt Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 prizm power steering squeals bad when first starting the engine. once reved up it goes away until it sits for awhile. has new belt, puleys good, flushed the system no help. would it be pump or rack?
  • jewelady29jewelady29 Member Posts: 1
    I need to know if a 1992 transmission is interchangable with a 1995? thank you
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
    The fuel door lever on a 1997 Prizm will not open the fuel door when applied, is there a way of opening the fuel door without damaging it? Thanks for any help.

    Dan
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
    Found the problem, pulled up on the fuel door lever while manually opening the fuel door, found broken door spring, door would not pop open on it's own, will replace with a new spring. I'm glad it was not anything serious.

    Dan :)
  • atlasoffatlasoff Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the alternator in my 93 Prizm and managed to blow the 100 amp Alternator fuse. As most fuses in the fuse box just come out with ease like little plugs, the Alternator fuse DOES NOT. In fact, I broke off part of the fuse trying to get it out. It's within a set of 3 fuses that I would guess are all high amp fuses, so do I need to take out the set of 3 differently? (maybe the entire block?) This is making me nuts. Anyone who can shed some light on this part of the engine fuse box would be my hero!!!

    Thanks!!!

    Julie
  • joebert2joebert2 Member Posts: 3
    Hey, I have a 96 Geo prism and my fuel door spring broke also..been having to put my wallet underneath the pull lever under the seat while pressing the left side of the door..where did you get the spring?Thanks!I also had a door handle break on me as well..i found one of those..just need a door spring for the fuel tank :confuse:
  • 95prizm95prizm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Prizm whose ignition key will not turn past the ACC position (stereo will start). I've tried two different keys, one of which was the original Geo key, that will not start the car but will open doors and the trunk. I have been noticing the key has been hard to turn in the past few weeks and last night it wouldn't budge. I tried lock de-icer, WD40, a rubber mallot without success. I looked in my Haynes manual and think it is the key lock cylinder. Any thoughts? Could this be the ignition switch - but I haven't had any electrical problems to date.

    Besides oil changes and brake replacement, I haven't done too much work. It seems like the hardest part to this job would be removing the steering wheel. Any advice would be great. Thanks.
  • dpernudpernu Member Posts: 1
    Julie,

    I just ran into the same problem this evening. Was anyone able to shed any light on it for you?

    Dennis
  • atlasoffatlasoff Member Posts: 2
    Dennis,

    No one here was able to help, BUT, we figured it out. And the whole set up seems rather evil, like "they" don't wan't you to figure it out.

    Prefirst, unattach the battery! (That's how I got into this whole mess!.. :) )

    First, you'll have to unscrew the screws that literally attach the whole fusebox to the car because you're going to need to get at the bottom of the box. Once that's done, you'll be able to pull the box up a little, although the wires running into the box will still prevent comfortable movement.

    Second, take hold of the nested box that contains the block of high amp fuses from the bottom, squeeze the sides with one hand, while you push the block of fuses from the top. The high-amp block should sink from the surface of the main fuse box. If it doesn't sink for you, you can stick two screwdrivers into those little slots on both sides of the high-amp block and squeeze the box that way (we did it that way first because we had no idea what was going on, but that didn't seem like the official way to do it).

    Third, assuming you've been successful with step two, you'll see that you've got some heavy duty wires running into this little high-amp unit that you've separated from the main fuse box. We did not figure out a way to officially get the bottom cover off of the high-amp box. We stuck a little screwdriver into the seams and at the same time put pressure on the plastic (it's thin, and somewhat flexible). We were able to get it off, but maybe you'll have better luck figuring out the "official" non-mickey-mouse way.

    Fourth, once you've had success getting that little bottom cover off of the high-amp box, you'll see that you just have to unscrew the screws that secure the wires through the 100-amp alternator fuse, replace the fuse, and reverse the steps.

    After reconnecting the battery, you will finished a journey that seems to be totally undocumented, even in the official shop manual for the Prizm. What a pain!

    Let me know how it goes.

    Julie
  • 95prizm95prizm Member Posts: 2
    I switched out the lock in what should have been about 10 minutes. All that is required is removing the lower dash panel (disconnect battery), turn the key to ACC, and poke a small screwdriver onto the release button. It pulls right out. Beware of replacement locks though, as two that were ordered from Advanced Auto Parts did not work, while the Autozone variety was much higher quality and functioned correctly. Test drive the lock before bringing it home to avoid a week of delay in shipping. No need to remove the steering wheel, as some manuals suggest.
  • brhildabrhilda Member Posts: 1
    Hi: I have always owned geo prizms. There is nothing like them. But right now we bought one for $400.00 dollars and put maybe another $500.00 into it and still have one problem. it was hit in the front by the front tire on the right side. We have put all new tires (goodyear tire paws) all new brakes all new struts all new wheel bearins and all new axles and still there is a minor shake in the right front tire is where i believe it is.
    Any suggestions? I asked my husband if after it was lined up if the tire could need to be re balanced and he says no. so i thought i would come here to see if i could get any other suggestions because he has had enough of it but i want it fixed. it shakes for a reason. and the car is in good shape for what we paid for it.
    Thanks for your help :( :confuse:
  • atdonleyatdonley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Prizm as well and have the same problem. It hesitates and sputters when first started every day and again after it sit for a couple of hours. Have you found any thing that has fixed this problem. I have changed the Fuel pump and screen, cleaned the MAP sensor, changed plugs, had the intake and cylinders flushed to remove carbon and nothing has changed it. I have read the the caytalitic converter can also cause this problem as well as the emissions canister. I am getting a little tired of changing parts one at a time. Please if you have found something that works could you pass it along.
  • lle672lle672 Member Posts: 6
    My 1993 Geo Prizm almost ran out of gas the other day and ever since it hasnt run right. It almost seems like it is only running on 3 cylinders and then my check engine light came on. Inside my car now has a strong smell of gas.I checked the light and it gave me a code 25. What could this be? Im at a loss here. :mad: Please help!
  • jcjimenezljcjimenezl Member Posts: 1
    Actually, I ran into the same problem about the different gaps. I called NGK tech support and they told me I should use the gap stated in the manual as they get their information from third parties and sometimes they are wrong.

    The 1997 Geo Prizm manual on page 6-65 under "Replacement Parts" states that the gap should be 0.031 inch (0.8mm)

    I will use 0.031 spark plug gap instead of what the auto parts says.

    I have the manual on PDF format if anyone is interested.
  • coach2779coach2779 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever get the starting proble fixed. If so whiat did you do I have the Same problem with my 1991 Geo Prizm
  • bud1123bud1123 Member Posts: 1
    On my 2002 Prizm el stripo, (My Wife bought it I didn't)seemed to operate and drive OK,but several months ago it began a rattly noise in drive and at idle. It kept getting worse, so 10 days ago I took it to the local Chevrolet dealer. Several hours later they called and said that the air conditioning compressor was bad and needed replaced. I wasn't having any trouble with cooling but in order to get rid of the noise I authorized the repair. My wife drove the car home and didn't say anything about any noise. I drove the car several days later and found that the same noise still persisted. The dealer had replaced the compressor with a rebuilt compressor. The total bill was $753.00 and change. I took it back to the dealer and complained and the service writer turned me over to the mechanic who serviced the car. He said that the original compressor was bad internally but that all the compressor's sound like this. The car was bought used and didn't sound like that at that time. Anybody out there had the same problem? Advise :mad: :mad: :cry: :sick:
  • ruddneckruddneck Member Posts: 23
    I had the same problem, but it really was the compressor--it wasn't cooling, the car would leak refrigerant as quickly as I could put it in, and changing the filter made no difference. I also had that same horrible rattle.

    I had a brand new compressor put in (on the recommendation of the service manager who said the quality of rebuilt ones these days was very erratic) and the problem was solved. It did, however, set me back $892. But on those sweltering humid Southern summer days, it seems money well spent (or at least that's how I rationalize the expense).
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    I have a 2000 Chevy Prizm with about 110,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on a few months ago and our mechanic said it was the Catalytic Converter.
    I waited several months, and then had it replaced, but the check engine light came on again, and the mechanic said that an O2 sensor needed replacing, so he did that as well.
    Well, 45 miles later, the check engine light came on again. I took the car in, and the mechanic said he was getting a "RUnning Lean" code.....but that he checked everything on the car, and nothing seemed to be wrong. So he reset the switch, turning the light off, and told me to drive it again to see if the light would come on again.
    Exactly 45 miles later (again) the light came on.
    Now I'm $900.00 in the hole, and my SMOG check is due immediately, for registration (lucky me). And I will have to take it back for him to do a deeper search.....but I would really appreciate any advice on this scenario...and what the potential problem might be.

    Thank you
  • elmo1945elmo1945 Member Posts: 4
    I'd love a copy of that manual. Could you send it to:
    leeaooa@nycap.rr.com

    Thanks,Lee
  • elmo1945elmo1945 Member Posts: 4
    Anyone know how to turn off the check engine light on a 1997 geo prism.
    Thanks, Lee
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