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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • stanvstanv Member Posts: 10
    Ngoh9, Sorry, but I do not know which coil wire. I checked the bill and there is no part number indicated.
  • cremercremer Member Posts: 2
    I'm running 96 villager gs. and considering to replace the thermostat by myself.
    Reason for that is when I stop at the traffic light or at parking while engine is running, warm air doesn't come out. When I'm in driving, everything's OK.
    Could anyone let me know where the thermostat is and how to replace it briefly?
    Very appreciated.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    It's most likely that you are low on coolant, or you have air trapped in the system. Check out Steve Cutchen's website for the procedure for bleeding the cooling system. This should solve your problem.


    http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/vq_faq/index.htm


    Many thanks to Steve for his site.


    Dave

  • cremercremer Member Posts: 2
    I will check the site & try it, Dave and Steve.
  • charles15charles15 Member Posts: 57
    What is the normal price for a replacement pollen filter for a 99 Quest - just the part not installation? Are these dealer only items or is there an aftermarket source?
  • jmulholljmulholl Member Posts: 29
    Where is the fuel switch on a 1995 villager/quest?
    My villager was in an accident and I need to turn the switch back on. Thanks!
  • ngoh9ngoh9 Member Posts: 7
    Cremer, Last month I had same problem after I replaced thermostat myself.Your coolant is low you need to fill in your coolant slowly .Close your cap, run engine for few minutes,and fill it again, repeat same proceedure untill radiator really full.
    The thermostat locate on the lower left ( if you stand in front of the van) of the engine, or you can follow the hose from radiator, thermostat housing is at the end, attached to engine block by 4 screws.
  • cathangercathanger Member Posts: 2
    Just bought one from Carparts.com for about $60. Various quotes from Merc & Nissan dealers ranged as high as $118 and all needed special ordering. It is the Ford Motorcraft brand and looks like it is easily worth $24.95.
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    IIRC (I'm at work, the van's at home) the fuel switch is a little red button located in a cutout on the side kick panel, either in the driver's footwell or the front passenger's footwell. Either way, it's down there somewhere. (How's that for a technical answer?)

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • olsparkeeolsparkee Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 GS that has chronic problems with the electrical system that seem to all be due to the extremely poor switches used in the Villager. Since new, the power/economy switch is stuck in the power position, the passenger window switch works half the time. The wiper only activates the squirter after a lot of fiddling around. I could go on, but I'm looking for any feedback from owners. Is this a common problem area for the Villager? I like the size and manuverability but it is extremely annoying to have to fight the switches. I would like the feedback to be able to judge whether a salvage yard would have parts that were worth installing.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    I have heard the power window switches have been problematic. I don't know if there's an option there other than to replace it. If you can find a low-mileage wreck somewhere, it may be worthwhile to get used parts. You might want to check with your dealer's parts department just to check the price for a new switch.


    I can't speak to the power/economy switch, but I've heard at least one person has had sucess "operating" on the wiper/washer switch. If you have the inclinitation you might want to check out:


    http://web2.iadfw.net/scutchen/vq_faq/index.htm


    There is a section on fixing the wiper switch, complete with photographs. Good luck.


    Dave

  • jmulholljmulholl Member Posts: 29
    My 1995 villager rear ended a truck at about 5-10 mph. Got the body fixed but the car won't start. Reseting the fuel pump cutoff switch did not work. My mechanic is about to start on what could be a very expensive search operation. Does anyone have ideas on where to start? Thanks.
  • pinecrest49pinecrest49 Member Posts: 4
    Anyone know how to adjust the sunroof so it seals tight on a 94' Villager. Also, where is a good place to get the little allen head screws used for the adjustment if the dealer doesn't have them.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Well this is a good old-fashioned mechanic problem. It isn't necessarily a big deal. Sounds like you should find someone else that is a little more open-minded.

    The fuel pump reset switch is a good deduction. After is was reset, did you hear the fuel pump spin up? If you just turn the ignition switch on, but don't crank it over, you can hear it if you listen for it.

    Does the car crank or turn over? If so, you need three things for it to run. Fuel, compression, and spark. Has your mechanic pulled a spark plug to see if there is spark? If so, he should check the timing and fuel pressure. If that's good, is there compression?

    My guess, it's an electrical problem, a wire that got broken or disconnected. A mechanic should be able to find the problem by process of elimination. Don't allow him to just start replacing parts in hop of solving the problem.

    Good luck and let us know what happens.

    Dave
  • cduongcduong Member Posts: 70
    Cremer... I had my '94 Villager and last summer my local mechanic changed the timing belt at 60,000 miles, while at it, he also replaced the thermostat because it's located at the same location. Unless the design changes from '94 to'96, I assume that's where it is. Good luck
  • camplargecamplarge Member Posts: 1
    I love my '95 Villager. Bought in '97 w/ 27K, now has 112K. Only problems are:

    .Rear windshield wiper won't work
    .Windshield wash doesn't work on passenger side
    .Door locks are Satanically possessed
    .Drivers seat is broken on exterior side making controls difficult to access and making driver list slightly to port
    .Exterior door lock on passenger side is non functional
    .Bench seat recline control bar plastic handle has broken off
    Other than that, it's fantastic!
  • ngoh9ngoh9 Member Posts: 7
    My 95 villager power door lock on driver's side door does not pop open, I think it needs lubrication, but I affraid to open the side panel( or don't know how to ), does anyone has this problem before ?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Door locks on Quests/Villagers do have a history of problems.

    Here's a link.

    Steve
    Host
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  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    on my 97 Villager opens the drivers door and the rear hatch.
    It doesn't open the passenger door or the slider? Is this normal? Don't remember reading this in the owners manual; but I could have missed it.

    I have the remote entry and two presses of the unlock button do open all the doors.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    the key to work on my passenger door and slider. Maybe it was not used by the previous owner. Still under warranty, so I'll have it checked out.Could not get the key to work the first few times.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Glad we could help :-)

    Ok, glad you got it working on your own!

    Steve
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  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    you threw me for a loop for a second!

    Went out an tried the locks after posting.They don't open (at least the passenger door doesn't) right away.You have to play with them.

    I know it sounded like a dumb question, and it is kind of baffling why the key doesn't work smoothly.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The switches in the doors are rather notorious for causing problems - actuators failing and power windows not working. Maybe that's related. Let us know what your dealer says.

    Steve
    Host
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  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Anyone here experienced a slow coolant leak with their Quest or Villager? My 99 Quest has been to the dealer several times for an unsolved coolant leak. Originally they thought it was related to the previous knock sensor work they did.

    And they supposedly fixed it at one point, but I brought it back recently because I continued to smell coolant and was also noticing that the coolant level was getting lower. After doing a compression test an not detecting anything... they put dye in the coolant and had me drive the vehicle for a few days so they could see where the coolant was actually leaking to.

    They found coolant leaking underneath the manifold into the valley of the engine. And they're speculating it may be related to the factory installation of one of the cylinder heads.... where a hole was drilled too deep and broke into the cooling system causing this slow leak. At least that was they explanation I got. They actually won't know for sure until they get in there and replace the part.

    The van is the shop now while they've ordered parts. In the meantime, they've put me in a rental car, so at least I have transportation. Wish me luck. I'll report back.

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons
  • collins14collins14 Member Posts: 39
    I have a 96 villager and the only problem I have had with it was a coolant leak at 48000 miles. It was two years ago so I just pulled the paperwork to see what was done. They removed and replaced the throttle body coolant hoses. I also have charges for new molded coolant hose and half inch heater hose. I vaguely remember where the coolant hose attached to a metal piece up by the windshield (sorry i don't remember what it is called) was corroded. My coolant had a slow leak for a while before they figured it out. They replaced the hoses and cleaned out the corrosion- has been fine since.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    The lock problem appears to be solved. They had to lube the key cylinders. Apparently previous owner never used the key, probably used the remote all the time.

    Got to say I'm totally satified with this van!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    No kidding? I never use the key either. Guess I better put some graphite stuff in the locks and play with the keys now and then. Thanks!

    Steve
    Host
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    How are things? We may be down in your neck of the woods soon. I'm looking forward to hitting the beach with my kids.

    Our 99 Quest has had a couple of coolant leaks. When I first got it it had a leak at a fitting on the engine which the delaer fixed. A few month after that, I smelled coolant again and it started to go down. I had to add a little every few weks. I ended up tracing it to a screw-in plug at the passenger side top of the radiator. It was really loose.

    I still have a small leak somewhere, because I can smell coolant when the engine is hot. I can't find this one. The problem is, there are just a boatload of coolant hoses, fittings and connections on a Quest. There are manyf places it could be leaking, and you just can't see a lot of them.

    It's good your mechanic is willing to search it out. I'd be surprised if it's a bad head, but it could happen. It's more likely one of the hidden fittings under the intake manifold.

    Good luck and let us know what happens.

    Dave
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Dhoff- Good to hear from you. They're speculating it's coming from the cylinder head because they've eliminated a lot of other factors. They put florescent dye into the coolant, so they've been able to track pretty closely where the leak is coming from.

    According to their information, a few cylinder heads were manufactured wrong "with holes drilled too deep" in one area causing a small leak from the head's cooling chamber.

    On the other hand, I should also mention that I'm also hearing this all second hand through my service advisor; and have also been told that they won't know for sure until they get in there to replace the head.

    I'll get back to everyone here about this. Especially since it sounds like there might be a few other 99 Quests out there with the same exact problem. The van's is still the shop while they're waiting on parts. Parts were suppose to have been over-nighted, but apparently there is a back order on one of the parts... so it's taken them a couple extra days.

    This whole thing has been a hassle, but I have to say I was impressed with Nissan 800 customer service response once I got them involved. They put me in a rental car and are now talking about giving me an extended warranty on the van. Of course I won't be completely satisfied until they've fixed the problem and I'm back in my van.

    Revka
    Host
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  • turksteritisturksteritis Member Posts: 95
    I just traded off my 98 quest that had a very mysterious coolant leak. It would leak out about 1 litre between oil changes but yet there was not any antifreeze on my driveway or in my oil. i recently traded it on a full size Silverado X-cab 2 wheel drive. Way more power & gas mileage is the same.
  • jr1drjr1dr Member Posts: 5
    My 2000 Quest has an intermitant problem with the radio display. the clock display fades out, then will be OK the next time we start the van. Any suggestions? I checked the battery and it's pumping out 12 volts but the neg terminal had corrosion on it which I removed. the van operates normally otherwise.
  • mdvmdv Member Posts: 9
    Hi jr1dr....I have a 2000 Quest with the same problem exept mine is pretty much gone. If you go back to post #883 in this thread and posts #'s 661 & 683 in the "Nissan Quest" thread, you'll see it's apparently not a totally uncommon thing. As far as my particular situation, I'm just living with it. Mine is out of warranty and Nissan has quoted $1260.00 for a replacement! I didn't even bother to check on repairing it. If I did replace, it would be with an aftermarket which would be a third the price and no doubt better. I did go to the trouble of removing the radio from the dash and started testing for cold solder joints,loose wires,etc. to no avail. So I'm just going to live with it for the time being. In one sense, it kinda keeps you honest as far as adjusting the sound/balance,etc. When you have the display telling you what you "think" sounds right-you now have to adjust it to where it actually "does" sound right-in other words no subjective display lights to make you think you have enough treble/bass/balance/whatever. I've become so accustomed to not having display, I'm not sure I would know what to do with it if I got it back. Good luck.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,441
    My '99 just started with the same problem. The display went away out of the blue. It has come back a few times, but not for long. I actually can live without the radio info, but I miss the clock.

    Of course, it is my wifes car, and it annoys her, but at that price for a head unit, she can stay annoyed.

    I may have to bug a bit, since I haven't broken 30K on it, and they had to replace the radio once because the CD player was acting up.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    I just purchased a low mileage (5214 mi) 2000 Villager Sport from a big Mercury dealership in town. I was suspicious of the low mileage but had subscribed to Carfax prior to purchase but VIN check did not find any irregularities, other than a fleet leased vehicle. 20 days after, no complaints other than that darn engine light popped up after I re-fueled, gas cap re-secured but did not fix it. Dealership will be replacing a fuel vapor canister as soon as they get the part. Question:

    1. Anybody there had the same problem and what was the fix?
    2. Is there a way to verify if a vehicle was returned as a "lemon" by previous owner and re-sold by a dealer? Something that Carfax may not catch and the dealer surely won't disclose ? I just wanted to put my mind at ease due to the incredibly low mileage for a 2000 model.
    3. Car was manufactured in June 2000 and is still under warranty so no worries, YET.

    Don't get me wrong, van rides smooth and has that new look and smell, but honeymoon may be short ?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    One thing you could try is to ask the service manager to pull up the maintenance records when you go back for the fuel canister. That could indicate if the oil was ever changed, for example, or if any work was done (if Carfax indicated a title from one state, and work was done in another, that could raise a flag). You may want to take some donuts with you as a little "bribe" too .

    Chances are though that you got a cream puff - enjoy the ride!

    Steve
    Host
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  • mdvmdv Member Posts: 9
    Hey...I would bug the dealership to death to get them to replace your unit if it were me and it was still under warranty. If Nissan can state the radio costs $1260.00 with a straight face, then by gosh they should back it up with replacement warranty. If a decent aftermarket unit would be $150.00-250.00 and Nissan has the audacity(sp) to command such a high price as they do-push for a new radio and push hard.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    Steve,

    Villager was originally titled in Michigan as fleet vehicle. It was bought by the dealership in Texas April 2002. They bought 2 more Villagers
    from that place, and the other 3 VINs I checked (Villager) in other dealerships in Texas came from the same state/place. I was using the Yahoo classifieds to do my shopping. I'm assuming they bought it from an auction, but Carfax did not show it. Anyway, I'll try your suggestion and see if they can check if any maintenance was done in Michigan. Well, Carfax has a $ 5K guarantee on it so it better be good. Will not bring donuts but will try tacos/taquitos. Thanks!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, usually the "flood" cars come from Texas and don't get sent there, so my guess is that you are in good shape. Makes one curious what the fleet was (wonder if it was in the Ford execs "pool")?

    Sopapillas would work for me too, btw :-)

    Steve
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  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    Stant makes the oem gas cap to Ford specs, which I replaced to a key-locking Stant when home/in-town on our 2k1.
    When we went on a 2200 mile roundtrip last Oct, I used the non-locking oem cap for easier refills through the journey. Once after filling from some 5 gals the CEL turned on. Replaced it with the locking cap and the CEL went off after some 10 miles.
    The CEL has never come on ever since (even with the wife using the oem non-locking cap). I attribute that due to the fact the she always keeps it full (she hauls the 2 kids and never has it below half tank).
    From what I gather from this board and my experience, I deem it to be the fuel/vapor algorithm that sets off the CEL. It's essentially a bug that reads too sensitive. Comparatively, I can set off the CEL purposely by idling my Honda with cap off (but never yet even when I let it go down to 3 gals).
    I told the wife several times in the past to let it go down to some 3 gals so I can verify my hypothesis. She hasn't done that yet (although she only drives short and in-town) - must be that motherly instinct. I'll see if I can back on that project.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,441
    Just talked to the dealer service manager. They would just send it out to a local radio shop for repair, and it will be cheaper to go there myself. Hopefully they can repair it.

    I don't really want to go to an aftermarket unit. Partly for the look (since it will be obvious that it didn't come that way), plus with the stereo upgrade (rear controls, etc.) I doubt too many aftermarket units will work correctly.

    Besides, I'm too cheap to pay for what I would want, so it's better to get the old one fixed.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • mdvmdv Member Posts: 9
    The irony of my/our problem with the radio display has taken another strange twist. After stating a few posts back, I said my unit was essentially "dead" since I haven't seen a display for nearly two minths now. Well, just yesterday it came back on! However it has faded out a couple of times since then, but seems to return after 10 mins or so. And on top of that, when it did go out earlier today and stayed out for 15 mins, I pulled into my garage and figured it was gone for good again. Upon starting the van 2 hours later-bingo-I have display again. Let me know if a local shop in your area can repair this thing. If so, I might try one here in Pensacola. Otherwise this on/off/on display may be entertaining to watch for awhile. I still refuse to buy a Nissan unit, and I feel the same as you-not inclined to an aftermarket radio. Keep me posted about your results.
  • dnuggetdnugget Member Posts: 17
    Thanks for the advice, Gasguzz. Will purchase Stant gas cap and see if it fixes my CEL.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I, too, have the gas cap problem with my 2000 Villager. The dealership turned off the "service engine soon" light for me with a computer, but would not go so far as to concede that I need a new cap. They listed my cause as "driver error." I explained at length and with great plausibility that there was no error made, and that the cap just might be bad. They agreed to consider further my need for a different cap, if the problem occurs again. This was a warranty thing, so I am not out money-- yet.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    My radio also blinked out the other day, but it turned to just be a fuse. Should mention though that when I replaced the fuse up front in the fuse box, the radio still didn't work. I brought it to the dealer, and it turns out there's another fuse behind the radio that had to be replaced.

    Question: to all of you that have had radio problems, I'm curious to know if you have the standard 80 watt radio or the premium 130 watt radio? Mine is the standard radio. Other than a blown fuse, no other problems.... so far that is. ;-)

    Revka
    Host
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  • mdvmdv Member Posts: 9
    I think mine is the standard 80 watt on my Quest. The only reason I'm not totally sure is that I bought it used and not much info was with it, and secondly, when I removed the radio from the dash, there was an open jack in the back labeled "amp" which I assume is for a power amp-i.e., the 130 watt booster. Now that I was gloating a few posts back about my display returning, well...it's gone again! I don't think it is a fuse problem since the radio/CD/tape still work fine. Everything works fine except for the display. I'm still waiting for someone to post who the manufacturer is for the Quest/Villager radio-then maybe a schematic would be helpful.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My manual doesn't mention who the supplier of the radio is but talks about the 10A fuse and the 7.5A fuse and suggests checking the ground too. The trouble-shooter section only talks about "no display and no sound".

    Web searches for "nissan audio supplier" indicate that Clarion supplies most of the radios to Nissan (or did until this March, when Nissan dumped a bunch of Clarion stock it held).

    Crutchfield sells Clarion stuff - maybe one of their techs could help.

    Steve
    Host
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  • gmhillsgmhills Member Posts: 1
    I have to say, I am reading these posts while researching minivans - to buy used! But I am laughing because I have a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus and have a friend with a newer Dodge Stratus with a very similar radio problem and we think it is a ground issue because it seems to be worse when the humidity is up or raining!! So it seems not to be brand specific!! Thought I would share!!
  • apr2002apr2002 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98' Mercury Villager with 74K on it. Lately, I have problem with gas pedal - it sticks at upper position and requires a rather heavy stump to move it. Once moved from the dead point works just fine. Lubrication of spring does not help. Anyone?
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    It is most likely a dirty throttle body. If you want to fix it yourself, get some carburetor cleaner and a rag and clean it out.
  • 3dglasses3dglasses Member Posts: 11
    Hi all,

    I have owned my 95 Villager since 40K (1998). It has been almost perfect since. I now have 81K and the tranny is slamming into 2nd gear. It runs silky smooth except for the 1st to 2nd tranny shift which is very hard. I changed the fluid (full 10 Quart change) with no relief. My wife (the normal driver} says that it has always shifted that hard, but I know that when I last drove it at 75K it was still smooth.

    This van has beet great! I have less tha $250 in repair since I bought it. ( I do my own maint and brakes. A CV joint last month $145, and a CVR valve/hose 2 years ago at $75). I just put a new set of Michelin MX1s on it and is is quieter than ever!

    Also, The van takes about 3-4 seconds to start in the morning. I live in Florida and it is always in the garage. It has been completely tuned up (plugs, wires, distributor) to no avail. Any insight on the tranny or the hard start?

    P.S. My 96 Grand Caravan has been through 2 trannys and numerous other problems with 80K. I am thinking about another used Quest/Villager since this 95 has been such a cream puff. What are your thoughts?

    Scott
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