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It's a 96 with 145K, believe it's a 1.8 liter(it's a LSi). I think the car's general condition qualifies as "fair"based on KBB rating scale. The real good part is it only cost 850 so I don't have a lot to lose.
The most apparent issue is body damage to the left rear door(smashed in, real bad). That's why there's junk yards, but I was wondering if a door from a Corolla would also fit.
The car hasen't been driven much for the last couple of years and looks like it needs the basics, but it's had some maintenance done. It looks like it needs stuff like hoses, trans service(I read that at this cars milage things can happen), battery etc
BTW, the car runs pretty good as is.
As people expereinced with this car, what else as far as routine service would you recommend.
thanks for your input
Then in October I bought another '95 Prizm for my soon-to-be 16 yr. old. It had 191,000 miles on it! Like you, I bought it for $750. It needed a new windshield and I had the oil & trans. fluid changed, new rear struts, put snow tires on it, some hose leaks fixed, new battery, and around $1000 later it was on the road. Runs great. It gets up my driveway in the snow while my 2002 Sable wagon is marooned for the winter. Really came in handy this winter. And these cars are fun to drive - very responsive. (Oh yeah, it does have a power steering fluid leak right now, but I have a feeling that will be easy to fix)
Good luck!
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1. Rack and pinion.
2. Struts.
3. Lower Control Arms.
The estimated cost was around 1000 bucks. is it worth getting it fixed with a uncertified mechanic for 1000 bucks, from a dealer for 2300 bucks or is it worth selling it off and buying a new one?
I have had three of these things and never replaced a rack and pinion or lower contol arms. Unless the rack is leaking or the control arms show serious visible wear I cant believe those are your the problem (My last one had 250,000 hard miles before it retired & my current one has 160,000 hard miles on it). The fact that his guess is that "wild" tells me he does'nt know what is is and may be wasting your money by trying a shotgun approach to fixing it.
most likely (depending on when the vibration occurs) it could be struts, or a bad cv joint (drive axle) or potentially a wheel bearing (but unlikely). For that matter it could simply be bad or out of balance tires (or if you live where it is muddy or snowy mud or snow can pack up on the inside of the wheel and throw the balance off making it vibrate), If it had more miles on it and the vibration only occurred at really high speeds it could be transmission output shaft bearings (but this is probably unlikely).
If you hear a kind of slight clunky noise or feel more viration when turning the wheel it might be a cv joint.Take a look at your front tires for uneven wear patterns. this can indicate a bad strut. If you feel the bumps a little harder than you think you should, or hear clunk when you hit potholes then most likely Struts. (struts will also sometiems leak oil when they are bad) There are a lot of little things as well that can cause vibrations.
Find someone who has a good idea of how to troubleshoot your problem.
I definitely wouldn't spend $1k on speculations. These are pretty good cars. take the time to figure it out. Mechanically this car is an exact twin of a toyota corrola (except for body and trim)and when taken care of can easily exceed 200,000 miles.
I hope this helps.
It might be engine mount/s if you see the engine shaking when it is running.
But like the previous message said, these cars run forever if you do the basic maintenance. When something breaks it is usually easy/cheap to fix.Things do not break easily.
What is the size of automatic transmission drain plug? What is the tool to use for drain&refill service? An allen wrench? Sockets?
Car is 1994 Geo Prizm with 4 speed auto. (158K miles).
I have a 1999 Prism with over 275,000 miles on it, and have never had to replace any of what you've been told.
I'd take it to a reputable mechanic (if any still exist today) to get it checked out.
Either way, I would not spend $2300 to get it fixed... I'd use that money to find a newer used car.
Mine was related to corroded battery poles. Just get a battery post cleaner (wire brush), clean the rust, then add a a few drops of hot watyer+baking soda mix over the rusty part, clean the residue and then tighten the battery cables. I hope it solves your problem too.
1990 Geo Prizm; Vin code6. LSI; 3spd. Auto.
I'm aware that the correct fluid for the differential part of the transaxle is ATF. according to the manufacture. Have you ever heard of people putting in gear oil instead [80W-90]. I've had several mechanics tell me that this an an accepted fluid. I had to have a transaxle installed in my Prizm recently and the installer used gear oil [80W-90] instead of the ATF. for the diff. And he's certain that it's alright.
What do you folks think of this. Thank you for your opinions.
Henry
What kind of oil filter are you using? What grade/weight,brand of oil are you using?
It is easy to change oil and filter on a Geo Prizm/Toyota Corolla. You do not even need jacks,ramps etc. Filter too is easily reachable.
I forgot to get the air filter changed. I will be visiting my mechanic again for that.
Changing oil and filter is easy, But I would like to visit mechanic atleast for this so that it can be like a regular checkup of my car.
As I said the oil filter should be tight, oil plug on the oil pan should be tight enough.These areas are the palces oil leaks usually. Probably they did not tighten the bolt or the filter at the last oil change place.
10W40 is thicker oil, maybe because they thought it needed it since oil loss, but the factory specified 5W30 for these cars in winter, 10W-30 possibly in summer.
Air filter is visible, you can change it yourself in a minute.No need to pay extra for it.If you need the part number I can look it up for you.
How is the car doing now?
Check the PCV (valve) often, and replace if it is not good (when you shake it should rattle, if it does not it is bad).PCV is very much related to oil.
I hope you get a couple of hundred thousand miles out of it unless you want to sell it some day.
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, that is good enough for reprogramming as far as I know.
I hope you get years of reliable service out of your Prizm.
Thanks
Keith
Keith
Keith
myeweb
Does anyone know where I can get the narrower style latch? Or of someone who rebuilds seat belt latches?
Thanks very much. Bob
1990 Prism, VIN code 6; 150,000m.
When I switch it on ignition, [when engine is cold] the cooling and air conditioner [its turned off]
fans come on at the same time. I've tested the temperature switch and it's fine. I've looked at the relays and fuses and they seem fine also. Any ideas?
Thank you,
Henry
I replaced the damaged o2 sensors which cleared all the codes. Car runs great now! Another thing to check depending on the code is the intake manifold gasket. Its metal and can warp which leaves a very tiny amount of air into the intake which gives the car the "lean fuel" code.
Thanks for your response....