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Comments
I even pushed it down and stayed for a time,- no change again. Or do you press this button in combination with any of the shift selections i.e D, L, 2 etc.? Another related question....Is it possible or is it not damaging to the transmission to change the shift, say from D to L while the vehicle is in motion at a high speed? Do the 90 Prizms have a 4 speed auto transmission at all?
Thanks for any help....
Thanks for any help....
If you have had this done, I have no idea. Putting new tires on eliminated my problem. Any one else have any ideas?
Thanks for any suggestions forwarded here.
My light was on, but I got 37 mpg (98 Prizm) so I took it there. They diagnosed, replaced the catalytic converter in 30-45 min., charged $200 (including tax and all fees), and that was the end of it. The light has never come back on since.
It is usually the catalytic converter in the Prizm in that situation if it is high miles and nothing seems to be wrong. A dealer tends to charge double, triple, or more for the work since they don't weld all day long like muffler shops.
CC's are designed to wear out eventually.
PC
If it is under warranty, take it to the dealer.
These covertors usually last 100,000 miles I think but that is just an estimate. The original in my Prizm went 130,000. Some go the life of the car.
If you bought a 2001, it might have been owned by someone who KNEW they weren't keeping it long-term and put cheap gas in it. They may have also not maintained the car well.
There is almost NO chance that the tires are causing the problem if you ask me.
Good luck.
I'd also appreciate any more input on people successfully fixing this or how much it cost to have it fixed.
PC
Keep it wet!
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/comparison/articles/43900/page011
Now I have 139,500 miles, so I hope it lasts.
Electrical problems have been my main gripe with this little supercar. The cig lighter is trash and little lights are out everywhere on the dash, AC display, etc.
How can I be too mad when I can still get 37 MPG on the highway in car with almost 140,000 miles.
PC
By the way- thanks SO much for the tip on the blower motor resistor. Under $30.00 and I fixed it myself!
Surprisingly with the 5 speed manual this prizm keeps up with or is a tiny bit quicker than the past cars (given the past cars were all automatics). I've put on 93,000 mi and the only thing I've had to change is the oil. This car is super reliable even starting it up in 0 degree weather when its been sitting for 3 days is no problem. The Toyota 1.8 liter motor is pretty strong, and is underrated. Granted it comes nowhere near being a race car it keeps up with what you'd be surprised.
I have put on an arospeed exhaust system and cut the cat off (it's not to loud and sounds like a crotch rocket) rebuilt the trans and put in a short shifter, got some konig rims, dunlop tires and dropped the front end 4 inches, which makes it corner pretty well. The thing I like most about this car is that its really light and picks up quickly in 1st and 2nd gear, then 3rd is alright, I know talking about this car like its a race car and modifying it sounds foolish but its really fun car to drive and thats what counts the most besides reliability which is what the car is designed for and also getting groceries which the car is a 10 out of 10 stars.
Surprisingly this car is great in the snow, I haven't gotton stuck yet this year and have driven through some pretty deep snow, I just wish I could cheaply convert it into all wheel drive like the subaru's. With only 120 hp this car is suprisingly quick, until you hit 4th gear, I don't race people because that would make me feel like an idiot in a prizm.
Overall with all the ragging the engine has takin' (I said I don't race people, but when I get on a side street, I'll put it to the floor)
the motor in this car seems indestructible and runs forever.
I didn't like my grand am gt, It felt super heavy and took about 100 lbs of pressure on the brakes to stop fast.
I didn't like the probe gt for the automatic electronic trans, that couldn't last 60,000 mi without having to be replaced, and the extemely cheap plastic interior that rattled more than my teeth in negative degree weather, the ball bearings went out at about 30,000 mi, and like all fords rust began quickly. The good thing about it was that it felt real light and was really good in the snow.
I can't really say anything bad about the ss s10, except on the highway it was a slug trying to pass, since the trans was was designed for all torque in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. I had about 115,000 mi on the v6 vortech and was still able to make it break loose in second with an automatic and pathfinder winter tires. That vortech motor is great never leaked anything.
I live in Boston, MA and I've owned a 1999 Prizm since March of 2004. I bought the car with 96,000 miles on it and today, broke 113,000 miles (I am a college student attending a University where 6 months I am in class and 6 months I work a full time job in my career field, so I drive a lot for work).
Funny I came across this post today: my driver's side door has been doing the same thing, and I was late to work this morning because I could not enter or exit my car. When it's cold, it refuses to latch or open. If the door is locked, turning the key to unlock it does no good either- it appears as if the key will break before the door opens!
Has anyone else heard of this problem, or a resolution? There has to be a better way to get around this than climbing in the car through the passenger side.
Need basic, economical, reliable car fast. Considering Prism.
Have seen several at 90-100+ miles in Texas. Most $4,000-$5,000.
How many miles can Prisms get without causing too many engine and other problems?
Can't afford many repairs.
Seriously considering one 2000 Prism LSI (dealership) has 88,500 miles for $4,350 with some noises underneath and a couple of dents.
Another, Prism LSI at dealership (1998) has 101,000 miles, 5 speed manual, peeling paint, leak in trunk for $3,500.
Open to other makes as well. Is this car better concerning reliability than an older Buick Century or Regal ?
The Check Engine Light is on and I want to know whether I need a Code Scanner to get the code since I know 95 Toyota does not need a scanner. A scanner is only required for model after 1996.
Anyone has any idea?
Thanks.
Having the same problem here. I started having this problem yesterday when I discovered that the battery was dead - hopefully due to build-up around the terminals because I replaced the alternator, starter and battery just last year! At this point I am charging the battery and will try the over ride you mentioned if the shifting out of park problem still exists when I get the car started again.
Do you have to take anything apart to get to the over ride button or is it accessable as is? Thanks!
I just bought my 97 prizm...and the instrument panel light went out...it's not the fuse...it doesn't affect the warning gages just the lighting on the speedometer, odometer, gas gage, temp and heater lights. It dimmed and brightened (like an alternator thing) but it was isolated to the pane. Has anyone had this problem? Lamp or Wiring? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
A Starving Student
You can check for yourself at http://www.advanceautoparts.com/. Click on Shop Online and follow the instructions to look up the part numbers.
Cheers