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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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Comments

  • iwantws6iwantws6 Member Posts: 26
    Nova/Prizm engines have a drain cock on the side of the engine block, near the oil filter. This should be opened to aid in draining the cooling system completely. If for some reason the radiator drain cock can't be used, you can loosen and remove the lower radiator hose at its joint to the radiator.
    If the lower hose is to be used as the drain, loosen the clamp on the hose and slide it back so it's out of the way. Gently break the grip of the hose on its fitting by twisting or prying with a suitable tool. Do not exert too much force or you will damage the radiator fitting. As the hose loosens, you can expect a gush of fluid to come out — be ready.Remove the hose end from the radiator and direct the hose into the drain pan. You now have fluid running from both the hose and the radiator.
    WARNING
    Housepets and small animals are attracted to the odor and taste of engine coolant (antifreeze). It is a highly poisonous mixture of chemicals; special care must be taken to protect open containers and spillage.

    When the system stops draining, close both draincocks.
    In a bucket or similar large container, mix a 50/50 solution of antifreeze and water. Using a funnel, fill the radiator with this solution. Allow time for the fluid to run through the hoses and into the engine.
    Fill the radiator to just below the neck. With the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it idle; this will circulate the coolant and begin to eliminate air in the system. Top up the radiator as the level drops.
    When the level is reasonably stable, shut the engine off, and replace the radiator cap. Fill the expansion tank to a level halfway between the LOW and FULL lines and cap the expansion tank.
    Drive the car for 10 or 15 minutes; the temperature gauge should be fully within the normal operating range. It is helpful to set the heater to its hottest setting while driving — this circulates the coolant throughout the entire system and helps eliminate air bubbles.
    After the engine has cooled (2-3 hours), check the level in the radiator and the expansion tank, topping up as necessary.
  • rlindemanrlindeman Member Posts: 3
    Car doesn't run well when first started. If you hit the gas, it sputters like it's going to stall. If you let it run for a few minutes, it seems to run fine. Hooked up a code reader and found Engine code P0304, cylinder 4 misfire. Already replaced the spark plugs, didn't help. Should I replace the ignition coils next? Anything else to look for? :sick:
  • ufrichufrich Member Posts: 1
    There seems to be hesitation when accelerating and I lose speed going up tall bridges. It is a 95 Prizm with 230k miles and I have still been getting 33 - 35 mpg, but have seen a slight decrease in mpg since this problem started. Someone said put injector cleaner in the gas, another said change the fuel filter. Any help would be great.
  • prizonerprizoner Member Posts: 1
    no. unless it was a one owner w/extensive ie: complete maintenance history or you are an excellent mechanic, run.
    your original question really doesn't give enough specific info on car condition. btw how was the test drive?
  • mscarcluelessmscarclueless Member Posts: 1
    hey guys!
    I own my mother's '94 geo prizm. she has 85,500 miles and I want to keep her going. I have no clue about cars I mean I just learned about the dip stick thingy the other day. Don't laugh. Someone please educate me I want to keep this car for another year or so if its possible. I do alot of highway driving by the way. I need to know what type of oil to keep in the car. I do get the oil changed often. how often should i change the fluids in my car? what fluids need to be changed? and with what kind of fluids? I just need to know the deal on my ride. thanks alot guys and you can stop laughing now...hehehe
  • geodrivergeodriver Member Posts: 1
    I was just wondering if anyone knew which years engines were interchangeable with the 1996 geo prism 1.6 liter. It has a lot of miles on it and the engine needs to be replaced, but I really love this car for the gas mileage, reliability, and most of all the turning radius. I found a guy who said he has a motor from a '90 being used for parts with 80,000 miles on it that he could put in as a replacement for a nice price. I've been looking around online and it seems to me that there are some differences. I haven't found anything searching this forum either. I've replaced things on my car myself before but I have no experience with something of this magnitude.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • crw7crw7 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Prizm. The day after I bought it, the "check engine" light came on for no apparent reason. The dealer said the fault code indicated an evap leak. They couldn't find anything, so they reset it and 1 week later, it came on again, also showing evap leak. This time they checked eveyrthing more thoroughly and tightened up all hoses, fittings, etc. One week later it was on again, so they looked and loked, got tech support from somewhere else and replaced a solenoid. Another week went by and now it's on again for a 4th time. I'm taking it back this Monday who knows what they'll come up with...

    It seems to drive fine, at least I haven't noticed anything that feels wrong in the little over a month that I've had it. But that light keeps coming on. And yes, I always tighten up the gas cap. And never fill up when the car's running. And if it was the O2 sensor (another frequent comment) wouldn't they have figured that out by now?

    Any guesses?
  • crw7crw7 Member Posts: 5
    OK, another question related to my Prizm, or Prizms in general. I've heard people comment that while the 4 speed automatics are good, the 3 speeds aren't. Other than the obvious difference in the transmissions, what is the big difference?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Why don't you cross-post this in our "Check Engine" light discussion and see what those folks think.

    As for the 3-speed vs. 4-speed, the 4-speed will get better mileage. Perhaps others here have other thoughts on the subject.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Also, the 4 speeds are quieter on the highway - reliability are the same. They are both Toyota.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    I bought a used 3-speed 2002 Prizm in April 05 because it was such a deal ($6750 for LSI with 25K, from a local rural Dodge dealer, excellent condition, local owner). I have an 86 mile commute round-trip and the 17-18mpg in my v-8 Chevy Silverado was hurting me at the gas pump. My understanding is that the 3-speed simply lacks the overdrive. You can easily tell which a car has by the presence or absence of the button on the driver side of the shifter. The 4 speed should run quieter on the highway as its running at lower rpms and will get better fuel economy. My 3-speed runs about 3000rpm at 60mph. I've put 6000+ miles on it in the 15 weeks I've owned it and my fuel economy has run from 31.0 to 37.4 mpg (for 34 years of driving, I've kept a small notebook in the car and recorded every fill-up, oil change, maintenance etc.). Its been in the 90's here and I am noticing an air-conditioning penalty of 2 to 3 mpg that I don't see with my v-8. I drive mostly on the highway and the 4-speed (I would have preferred the 5-speed!) would have been a better choice but this example was just too good of a deal to pass up. While its noisy on the highway, I do a lot of coasting when I see a light turn red in the distance. The 3-speed is excellent for this as it has more engine braking than an overdrive equipped car. I rarely touch the brakes. As I never drive it over 62, I'm the slowest car on the rural highways and try to take alternate slower "twisty" routes, which are always more fun with small, slow cars. Of course, in the city, there would be no need for overdrive, and the 3-speed would be fine. My intention is to drive it for 4 years and then use it to teach my now 12&1/2 year old daughter to drive - I think its an excellent car for teaching a new driver.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    Bought a 2002 Prizm LSI used that was missing its remotes. I bought a new GM remote for 98-02 Prizm cheap on eBay but without programming instructions. I prefer to program it myself - anybody have any instructions?
  • notyou2notyou2 Member Posts: 35
    I know this may not be the answer to your problem, but, I had the very exact same thing going wrong with my Pontiac, and finally, my brother, who is a GM mechanic said, just replace the gas cap. The whole gas system has some kind of vacuum thingy and if the gas cap does not seal correctly, the vacuum thingy comes on, etc.... Could be the same thing for you, and real cheap to fix, it fixed mine.....never had another code like that for the rest of the time I owned the car....
  • crw7crw7 Member Posts: 5
    I wish it was that simple. I'm not ruling that out completely, but then again, the dealer is doing all this troubleshooting for free and I'd hope that they would be smart enough to check something like that first rather than waste parts and labor hunting for another solution.
  • notyou2notyou2 Member Posts: 35
    Go get the gas cap, drive around for a while, then if it isn't that, all you have lost is about $5.00. But, you may just solve the problem too. We went through the same thing for about 6 months, then I called my brother, who lives 1100 miles from me, he told me get a gas cap, viola, fixed.....made the dealership mechanics down here scratch their heads.....doesn't hurt to try.....good luck...
  • phicougphicoug Member Posts: 3
    I've used a 1 gallon can of mineral spirits during an oil change, but I don't run the engine, I disconnect the spark plugs and crank the engine a few times to circulate the solvent. You'll be impressed with how clean your oil is after trying this. I also might try kerosene next time.
  • phicougphicoug Member Posts: 3
    I've had a heck of a time with the belts on my 94 prizm. There is interference between the alternator and AC belts. I had to modify my alternator bracket moving the alternator toward the right fender by 3/8 of an inch to alleviate the condition. In addition the belts that the auto parts stores have in their systems just don't fit, even when all components are loosened to their most slack positions. I know what you're thinking, but it is a 94 prizm with a 1.6L engine, I can't see any modifications other than mine, and I believe I'm only the second owner.

    As to the starter, it sounds like the starter is slowly failing, replace it before it quits perminately.
  • phicougphicoug Member Posts: 3
    Most importantly confirm that the timing belt was replaced at 60K miles. If the belt goes the engine is shot. other than that there is a recommended maintenance schedule in your owners manual. I recommend new plugs and cap and roter every 60K when you change the timing belt. You'll want to replace the transaxle oil at 100K -If it's a manual (I think that's what it says in the manual) and at 85K you might be looking at a new clutch. Have the coolant flushed--again back to the manual for recommended service intervals.
  • geomurphygeomurphy Member Posts: 1
    1990 Geo Prism LSi Hatchback. 1.6L, auto-transmission, only 68,500 mi. The brake pedal on this car has gone (nearly) to the floor 4 or 5 times in the past year. It then slowly recovers over the next few minutes regardless of how much you pump the brakes. Happens so infrequently but understandably family is afraid to drive the car. Need help to diagnose this problem!

    Last Fall it happened to my daughter twice (parking lot both times) and I didn't believe it until it happened to me on the road. No fluid loss can be found by me or a brake mechanic.

    Had the master cylinder replaced last October at a brake shop for lack of anything better to try. We thought perhaps fluid was getting past the seals somehow.

    Brakes worked without incident through the winter and into May. Failed on me one day in May exiting expressway after 10 mile run. Brakes gradually recovered over the next few minutes as I went to a store. Left store, drove same distance on expressway -- no problem. Left second stop, and drove same distance again on expressway -- no problem. One month later, on a winding road, slightly down hill, 40 mph, pedal went to floor on my daughter and she barely stopped in time to avoid rear-ending the car in front. Continued on home. Brakes recovered as usual in a few minutes. I have driven it 10 times since, over 200 mi and no problem.

    How can the brake peddle go nearly to the floor with no fluid loss, and SLOWLY recover. Pumping does seem to not help bring it back. Seems more like it just takes some time -- like 10-15 minutes.
  • lilredriderlilredrider Member Posts: 2
    Greetings!
    I too recently had to change my alternator belt on a '96 GEO Prizm [1.8L engine] and also had a devil of a time getting it on. As you said, even with all of the adjusters loosened as much as I could and keep the parts still on the engine it still wouldn't quite make it. It had taken me a while to find that there was more than one adjuster on the alternator that had to be loosened. Between myself and my dad we managed to get the belt on without 'adjusting' the bracket, but it wasn't easy. Had to have one of us prying down onthe bracket while the other worked the belt on [new multi-channel type not good old v-belt type]. All told it took about 3 days from the time I got the new belt form the parts store until the car was running again. Don't know about '94 but probably the same as '96 in that it was made possible to change but would make you take it to the dealer after the first time or make you give up and take it to them in frustration. :mad:
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    This is a non-interference engine (as are most Toyotas) so the engine is fine if the belt breaks. Unless the previous owner was poor at driving a stick, the clutch should be fine.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    Have a couple of stone chips on edge of hood & would like to touch-up with correct silver metallic paint. Anybody know where to find the paint code on this car (02 LSI)?
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    Found it! Codes sticker attached to underside of trunk lid.
  • achim59achim59 Member Posts: 3
    Hi@all
    my Geo 162000 miles got a problem
    It won't start in the morning, cranks fine i suspect a faulty Fuel pump relay but i don't have a repair manual and i can't find that darn thing
    I thing if you turn the key to *ignition* your Fuel pump should kick on for a few sec. to pressurize the system, or not?
    Mine kicks only on when i turn the key to the *start-position*
    have to krank engine for about 5 min. Then you'll hear 1 or 2 cylinder firing. wait a little try again , after about 10 min it limps on 2 cyl and the 3rd one kick in!
    Another 2-3 min and car starts.
    After that car runs fine, with no stalling or other probs. All day long!
    Sits then @ work for 8 Hours and just starts right up!
    But next morning ( over night in the Garage) same problem *grrrrr*
    changed fuel pump , coil pack, coolant temp sensor plugs, whole distributor, fuel filter...and.....aehem that's it!
    aby ideas besides Fuel pump relay or EFI-relay???
    a very sad prizm owner! :cry:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might also want to check out our "No Start" Problems discussion. Hope we can help.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    I can't remember exactly what it is now but there is a "choke" or an EFI equivalent of it that gives the engine a richer mixture when it is stone cold. Once the car is warm it will start without it, but it takes a rich mixture to start it in the morning. So the temp sensor (may be a different one from the coolant temp sensor) could be bad, or the engine computer could be bad. You should test the fulel pump relay just in case. Since the pump had already been replaced I trust that the pump itself is in working order.
    For a quick remedy, buy a can of starting fluid and spray it into the air filter. I bet it will make it easier to start.
    M
  • mccoy5129mccoy5129 Member Posts: 1
    Michael, I have a 93 Geo Prism. I just drained the radiator about two months ago. I had the same plastic drain plug you described. It was located at the bottom left hand side of the radiator. It was also shaped like a plus sign which
    allowed me to turn it by hand to remove and reinstall. If it is indeed stuck (may have been reinstalled on an angle) you may have to use the pliers to turn it. You may want to try and find a replacement part before doing so.

    Hope this helps!
  • sapphirekatsapphirekat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 5 speed 1998 Prizm. I did a dumb thing the last time I went to the gas station. I forgot to put the gas cap on my car after re fueling. I planned to replace it the next day, but you know life happens, it was off for about 10-12 days :blush: My question is, when you say drive around for a while, how long is a little while. Also, will the light go on when the muffler starts to go. The muffler has never been replaced. I feel an ever so slightly vibration under my feet when driving. My muffler also no longer repels my hand when I place it over the tail pipe. When I took it in to Midas to replace it the service manager said, my muffler had no holes in it and was not loud. There is not difference in gas mileage. "Why would I want to replace a perfectly good muffler," said the manager. That was in February. I never had that kind of trouble with Midas before I moved here. Any suggestions? What should my next step if you were me :confuse: Thanks
  • jaw52489jaw52489 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: I purchased my 99 Prizm a couple of weeks or so ago and can't figure out if it is a 3 or a 4-speed automatic. Is there a place on the engine or somewhere I can look to see? Or is there any other way to find out?
  • recycledsingerrecycledsinger Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Geo Prizm. 162,000 miles. Car starts...but when pushing on the gas it hesitates and chokes, then revs up. When driving it lurches forward some and loses power even on straight aways....going up hill is a real challenge. When pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, the passing gear doesn't engage, but you smell gas. Any suggestions?

    Also looking for a hood, any ideas for a cheap replacement as this is just a work car. :confuse: :sick:
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Does it have a small button on the gear selector below the lock-out button? If it does not, then 3 speed.
  • jaw52489jaw52489 Member Posts: 2
    no it does not, was the overdrive not available for 3-speed and standard on all 4-speeds?
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    See my message #890. I have the same transmission as you do. The 4-speed is the same tranny as the 3-speed on Prizms and Corollas with the addition of the 4th gear which some call "overdrive". The button on the driver's side of the shifter is to lock out this overdrive for steep hills, etc. Most of the used Prizms and Corollas I looked at were 3-speeds. I don't know if this is representative of the general population of Prizms/Corollas or just the ones for sale. Had I bought new, I would have gotten a 4 speed auto or 5 speed manual, but I bought this one used with a 3 speed because it was a good deal otherwise. If your driving is mostly city or short distance, it doesn't matter, but the 4 or 5 speed would be better on the highway (for fuel economy and engine noise).
  • dxpiandxpian Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 Geo Prizm LSi, and it's a real nice car, everything's working fine, except the cruise control's acting a little weird. You know how normally when you set a speed and wanna cancel it, you can either hit cancel or simply step on the break paddle, correct? Well, when I wanna slow down after I cruise for a little while and step on the break, there's this little clicking sound going on when I hit the break. It's just this one click that's it, does that sound normal to you guys? Or something's going wrong? :confuse:
    I'd really appreciate your help!
    --David
  • zoominghomzoominghom Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Geo Prizm with 234,000 miles, 5 speed. You are probably wondering why I would complain about anything on this car but I want to keep it for one more year and need some guidance. I have a cracked manifold. I have changed manifolds three times since purchasing this car and want to know if it is time to give the car a fond farewell or fix it. Other than the cracked manifold and a few shakes and rattles (not sure why it is happening), all is well with my little honey. Please give me your best car advise.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    Cracked exhaust manifold is a known problem with these cars. I had one with a cracked manifold for years and the car ran a bit loud but otherwise fine. Don't worry about it unless there are no other symptoms like overheating or emissions test failure.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    Has any of you tried to fit a newer OEM stereo for Prizm (w/CD) into an older car? Will it work? I have a 94 Prizm and want to know if a CD player from 98 or other years would fit.
    Thanks
  • iupui95iupui95 Member Posts: 2
    How can I tell if I have an Lsi or regular version Prizm?

    VIN #?

    Thanks.
  • iupui95iupui95 Member Posts: 2
    on your prizm?

    If yes, opinions?

    Thanks.
  • prizmcoasterprizmcoaster Member Posts: 14
    Will the Prizm ever return?
    What about 2008? That would be new Corolla time.

    PC
  • dougleeknowlesdougleeknowles Member Posts: 5
    Our '93 Prizm w/ 164K recently started stalling out suddenly and repeatedly during my wife's commute. Suddenly, as in, bang, it's dead. Repeatedly, as in 6 times in a three-mile commute. When it dies, it will start up again with a few cranks. Sometimes, if it stalls when moving, it will start up again if I let the clutch out, and then put it in again, which seems very odd.

    I put in a new air filter, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap + rotor, and it seemed to be fine. She drove it to her sister's house three hours away, with no trouble. This morning, during the commute, it's stalling again.

    I'm guessing it's fuel pump-related, maybe electricity to the fuel pump, because it's either running beautifully, or it's dead. And I'm getting close to the limits of my mechanical abilities.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    This may sound dumb but did you check the battery cables carefully? If the radio and all other electrical equipment quit also when the car stalls it is possible that the battery has a loose connection which fails intermittently. Another thing is the gas cap. If the tank does not vent properly it may create negative pressure inside. This pressure will make it difficult for the fuel pump to pump gas out of it. When your car stalls you might want to loosen the gas cap and see what happens. If you hear the air get sucked into the gas tank with "whoosh" sound you know the tank is not venting. Fuel pump is definitely a suspect but I'd check for chaper solutions first.
  • dougleeknowlesdougleeknowles Member Posts: 5
    I definitely get the sucking sound when removing the gas cap for a fill-up. I'll try loosening up on it, but I'm pretty sure that when the car stalls, all the electrical stuff goes out with it. I haven't had it happen while driving at night yet, tho, so I'm not positive. I'll try working the battery cables around tonite.

    Thanks for the suggestions.
  • seasideheightsseasideheights Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 prizm & the exhaust manifold needs to be replaced.

    Is that a do it yourself job?

    It appears it involves taking the heat shield off, unscrewing the old one, putting the new one in with a new manifold gasket, screwing it back in, then screwing the heat shield back on.

    It doesn't even look like you need to jack up the car to do it.

    Is it something I could do right in the driveway?
  • buelmcbuelmc Member Posts: 1
    1995 Geo Prizm 126,000 miles on it (Just broke in) Every Morning regardless of the outside tempature I have to almost totally depress the gas pedal and then play with it to get it to run. After it is warmed up it runs fine. Acts like it has a Bubble in it. I had the heat sensor replaced last week. Fuel Filter? If so where is that located, Gas Cap? Acts almost like it is vapor locking until it gets warm
  • chadichadi Member Posts: 1
    does a 93-97 corolla front bomper fit on a 93-97 prizm...i like the design of the corolla one better...and i am wondering if all the bolts and screws line up...and if the dimensions are the same...
  • nitenite Member Posts: 1
    my wifes 98 prizm the horn dosent wok... i found the wire up by the steering wheel and when i ground the wire the horn works so i am assuming the problem is the horn button... the question i have how do i take the air bag off with out doing any damage to it so i can get to the horn button...thanks in advance

    Danny
  • crw7crw7 Member Posts: 5
    It should say LSI on the car somewhere, I would think. The Geo's I've seen have "Prizm" on one side of the rear, and "LSI" on the opposite corner. The Chevy's say "Prizm LSI" together.
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    If airbag removal is required to get to the horn switch, you shouldn't attempt it at home. It is probably the most complicated interior equipment in your car, and it takes many hours by professionals to do it right. Shops charge hundreds for the work, and sometimes leave the airbag disconnected to save hours of labor without telling you. You want your airbag to be as reliable as it can be, so pick a reputable shop for the work. I haven't checked my repair manual yet but you should check yours and see if there is a way to get to the horn switch without removing the airbag. You can do your brakes and minor engine work, but airbag is a different beast I am told.
    M
  • lasalplasalp Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, im looking into buying a 93 geo prism. But its not running real well at this point.It does belong to a family member, he bought it 2 weeks ago and the car ran fine, 70 on the freeway with no problem at all. Now he decides to wash the car with the hood up and the car not running and now the car is all messed up.. He replaced spark plugs,wires cap and still the same, They hooked something up to it(sorry im not very car intelligent) and they found that the 4th plug was not working or was working very little.. It seems like the car is not really getting enough gas either..misses badley and stalls also...any suggestions?
    sandy
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