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If the lower hose is to be used as the drain, loosen the clamp on the hose and slide it back so it's out of the way. Gently break the grip of the hose on its fitting by twisting or prying with a suitable tool. Do not exert too much force or you will damage the radiator fitting. As the hose loosens, you can expect a gush of fluid to come out — be ready.Remove the hose end from the radiator and direct the hose into the drain pan. You now have fluid running from both the hose and the radiator.
WARNING
Housepets and small animals are attracted to the odor and taste of engine coolant (antifreeze). It is a highly poisonous mixture of chemicals; special care must be taken to protect open containers and spillage.
When the system stops draining, close both draincocks.
In a bucket or similar large container, mix a 50/50 solution of antifreeze and water. Using a funnel, fill the radiator with this solution. Allow time for the fluid to run through the hoses and into the engine.
Fill the radiator to just below the neck. With the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it idle; this will circulate the coolant and begin to eliminate air in the system. Top up the radiator as the level drops.
When the level is reasonably stable, shut the engine off, and replace the radiator cap. Fill the expansion tank to a level halfway between the LOW and FULL lines and cap the expansion tank.
Drive the car for 10 or 15 minutes; the temperature gauge should be fully within the normal operating range. It is helpful to set the heater to its hottest setting while driving — this circulates the coolant throughout the entire system and helps eliminate air bubbles.
After the engine has cooled (2-3 hours), check the level in the radiator and the expansion tank, topping up as necessary.
your original question really doesn't give enough specific info on car condition. btw how was the test drive?
I own my mother's '94 geo prizm. she has 85,500 miles and I want to keep her going. I have no clue about cars I mean I just learned about the dip stick thingy the other day. Don't laugh. Someone please educate me I want to keep this car for another year or so if its possible. I do alot of highway driving by the way. I need to know what type of oil to keep in the car. I do get the oil changed often. how often should i change the fluids in my car? what fluids need to be changed? and with what kind of fluids? I just need to know the deal on my ride. thanks alot guys and you can stop laughing now...hehehe
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
It seems to drive fine, at least I haven't noticed anything that feels wrong in the little over a month that I've had it. But that light keeps coming on. And yes, I always tighten up the gas cap. And never fill up when the car's running. And if it was the O2 sensor (another frequent comment) wouldn't they have figured that out by now?
Any guesses?
As for the 3-speed vs. 4-speed, the 4-speed will get better mileage. Perhaps others here have other thoughts on the subject.
As to the starter, it sounds like the starter is slowly failing, replace it before it quits perminately.
Last Fall it happened to my daughter twice (parking lot both times) and I didn't believe it until it happened to me on the road. No fluid loss can be found by me or a brake mechanic.
Had the master cylinder replaced last October at a brake shop for lack of anything better to try. We thought perhaps fluid was getting past the seals somehow.
Brakes worked without incident through the winter and into May. Failed on me one day in May exiting expressway after 10 mile run. Brakes gradually recovered over the next few minutes as I went to a store. Left store, drove same distance on expressway -- no problem. Left second stop, and drove same distance again on expressway -- no problem. One month later, on a winding road, slightly down hill, 40 mph, pedal went to floor on my daughter and she barely stopped in time to avoid rear-ending the car in front. Continued on home. Brakes recovered as usual in a few minutes. I have driven it 10 times since, over 200 mi and no problem.
How can the brake peddle go nearly to the floor with no fluid loss, and SLOWLY recover. Pumping does seem to not help bring it back. Seems more like it just takes some time -- like 10-15 minutes.
I too recently had to change my alternator belt on a '96 GEO Prizm [1.8L engine] and also had a devil of a time getting it on. As you said, even with all of the adjusters loosened as much as I could and keep the parts still on the engine it still wouldn't quite make it. It had taken me a while to find that there was more than one adjuster on the alternator that had to be loosened. Between myself and my dad we managed to get the belt on without 'adjusting' the bracket, but it wasn't easy. Had to have one of us prying down onthe bracket while the other worked the belt on [new multi-channel type not good old v-belt type]. All told it took about 3 days from the time I got the new belt form the parts store until the car was running again. Don't know about '94 but probably the same as '96 in that it was made possible to change but would make you take it to the dealer after the first time or make you give up and take it to them in frustration. :mad:
my Geo 162000 miles got a problem
It won't start in the morning, cranks fine i suspect a faulty Fuel pump relay but i don't have a repair manual and i can't find that darn thing
I thing if you turn the key to *ignition* your Fuel pump should kick on for a few sec. to pressurize the system, or not?
Mine kicks only on when i turn the key to the *start-position*
have to krank engine for about 5 min. Then you'll hear 1 or 2 cylinder firing. wait a little try again , after about 10 min it limps on 2 cyl and the 3rd one kick in!
Another 2-3 min and car starts.
After that car runs fine, with no stalling or other probs. All day long!
Sits then @ work for 8 Hours and just starts right up!
But next morning ( over night in the Garage) same problem *grrrrr*
changed fuel pump , coil pack, coolant temp sensor plugs, whole distributor, fuel filter...and.....aehem that's it!
aby ideas besides Fuel pump relay or EFI-relay???
a very sad prizm owner!
For a quick remedy, buy a can of starting fluid and spray it into the air filter. I bet it will make it easier to start.
M
allowed me to turn it by hand to remove and reinstall. If it is indeed stuck (may have been reinstalled on an angle) you may have to use the pliers to turn it. You may want to try and find a replacement part before doing so.
Hope this helps!
Also looking for a hood, any ideas for a cheap replacement as this is just a work car. :confuse: :sick:
I'd really appreciate your help!
--David
Thanks
VIN #?
Thanks.
If yes, opinions?
Thanks.
What about 2008? That would be new Corolla time.
PC
I put in a new air filter, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap + rotor, and it seemed to be fine. She drove it to her sister's house three hours away, with no trouble. This morning, during the commute, it's stalling again.
I'm guessing it's fuel pump-related, maybe electricity to the fuel pump, because it's either running beautifully, or it's dead. And I'm getting close to the limits of my mechanical abilities.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Is that a do it yourself job?
It appears it involves taking the heat shield off, unscrewing the old one, putting the new one in with a new manifold gasket, screwing it back in, then screwing the heat shield back on.
It doesn't even look like you need to jack up the car to do it.
Is it something I could do right in the driveway?
Danny
M
sandy