Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

mt700a1 · September 2005

Water in the ignition coil?
M

jess7 · September 2005

Also have a 2000 prism that doesn't run well when first started. Have had it tested by a mechanic, but no solutions found. He did find that the problem stops when the engine heats up to a certain point. Anyone else have any ideas?

mt700a1 · September 2005

Coolant temperature sensor (NOT thermostat) senses the engine temperature through the coolant temp. Engine temp info is used to adjust the gas/air mixture. This is basically an electronic choke and if it is not working properly it can produce the symtom you described.
M

playa69 · September 2005

we've got a 95 goe prizm. the cooling fan is running non stop, even when the engine is cool. weve changed the cooling fan switch an' the temp sensor. any ideas? also, the idle is screwed up, it loses a couple hundred rpms then goes back up.

oldsarge1 · September 2005

I recently purchased a 94 Geo Prizm 5 speed stick, specifically to tow behind our motorhome. I am about 98% sure I can do it without any problems. But, I'd like someone who has an owner's manual to check and see if I have to stop every so often and start and run the engine for 15 minutes, as recommended on other cars. If anyone has an owner's manual for sale, I am definitely interested. I posted this same question on the RV Net.com forum, and received no responses. Just installed a Blue Ox baseplate on it. Surprisingly it went fairly well, without too much difficulties. It bolts into the "tiedowns" on the front of the frame.

chemgirl1681 · September 2005

I have the same model and had a similar problem for the past year. The problem started with a rough idle and eventually progressed to hesitation when starting from a stop and eventually stalling when trying to start from a stop. I did have cylinder misfire codes at least once a week as well. To make a long story short, I finally brought it to a toyota dealership and they diagnosed the problem as a bad mass airflow sensor and replaced it (~$325). I got the car back this morning and the car seems great, the engine idles wonderfully, nice and quiet and is very peppy when you step on the gas. I'm hoping that it stays this way and it might give your mechanic a clue to help you with your problem!

eric26 · September 2005

My brother's 95 geo transmission bit the dust with 80k original miles. Transmission shop says $2500. I located a used trans for $500. Can this be done by somewhat decent do-it-yourselfers? His trans is a 3-speed automatic, can a 4-speed automatic be installed or does it need to be a 3-speed?

Thanks

oldsarge1 · September 2005

Just talked to the Chev dealer, and they gave me the toll free number of Helms Inc. 1-800-782-4356. Ordered an Owner's Manual for the 94 Geo Prizm. $20.00 + shipping and handling.

playa69 · September 2005

u could do it urself, it's easy, if u've done it before. it's time consuming so do it on a weekend. a 4speed should work, but i don't know bout the wiring

iwantws6 · September 2005

I should've listend to Prizoner,
The car was very good for the first month or so, then overnight the exhaust got loud. Turns out the car needs a manifold and resonator pipe ($500 for those) I hear Prizm exhausts are short lived but it was out of the blue. The battery and e-brake lights come on at random, but they seem to be working fine. The car does run very well though and tranny is smooth (A 3 sd auto sucks, but it was always like that) The car went through a spell where it would randomly not start unless i gently touched the positive terminal, but when i would wiggle it hard the car would never shut off.. it hasnt done this in a few months though. Overall a good car.. I'll sell it for a couple hundred.

froggy1966 · October 2005

Last friday my geo prism started making a clicking noise when you accelerate. Then it's also sluggish and doesn't want to and the clicking gets louder as you push the gas pedal down. We've checked the distributer(fine) ignition cables(fine) I just replaced the coolant temp sensor ( that was a pain) replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires(fine) plenty of radiator fluid. We also noticed the engine got hot when only driven around the block. I have 4 guys trying to help since I really need this car working due to work. But we're all getting frustrated due to can't figure out what's wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

mt700a1 · October 2005

Coolant temp sensor sends signals to the fuel injector, I believe. And maybe to the temp gauge on the dash also.

Actual cooling is regulated by a mechanical device called thermostat. I never replaced one on Prizm so I am not sure exactly where it is, but if you carefully trace the path of the radiator hoses, you will find it.

I hope the "clicking sound" does not imply internal damages to the engine due to overheating... Thermostat should be less than $20, but excessive overheating can ruin the engine. Blown head gasket also results in overheating, but for $20 you should replace the thermostat and see what happens.

Good Luck,
M

deadprizm · October 2005

OK, this vehicle ran flawlessly for 120000 miles then went to start it and no go. No spark, no fuel. Took the fuel line off and cranked, nothing. Checked for spark, nothing. Did the no fuel cause no spark or did the no spark cause no fuel? Where does one start. And... is the oil pressure switch involved in this or is that just after it is already running??? 4cyl, auto! HELP!!!!

froggy1966 · October 2005

Well we replaced the coolant temp sensor, replaced the radiator, replaced the fuel injector, resealed the valve cover etc been replacing parts all week. Still clicking. Even had a friend check it who works on cars and still can't figure it out.

mt700a1 · October 2005

No spark and no fuel sounds like too much of a coincidence. One will not cause the other. Oil pressure cannot be measured unless the engine is running already I think...
I would start by checking all fuses. There may be some under hood as well. If you have a wiring diagram or just a fuse layout, look for a fuse that is shared by the affected components. It will be helpful to know what else is not working, such as radio, headlight, etc. 99 is too new to have a serious problem so I am thinking this is a fuse issue.
M

mt700a1 · October 2005

Your car has a thermostat AND a coolant temp sensor. They perform different functions. A malfunctioning thermostat can cause overheating. When a car overheats it can make knocking noise and of course it would not run right in general. I am not sure if your car makes noise only when abnormally hot.

0. Has the thermostat been replaced?
1. Does the car still overheat?
2. Does the clicking noise occur at all times?
3. Did you check for cracks in the exhause manifold? (this can cause ticking or clicking noise as well as loud exhaust noise in general)

This is not very likely but has anyone checked the valve adjusters? They are hydraulic type and when they fail they cause ticking noise.
M

froggy1966 · October 2005

actually thermostat has been replaced too...the car isn't hot when it's clicking. Can turn it on and press on the gas and clicks and the more you push on the gas the louder it clicks. If you go into reverse it dies..go into drive and move it dies.

the exhaust is brand new and so is the transmission. Car was working great til a week ago. When you try to drive you can push your foot down on the gas and it doesn't want to accelerate. A friend makes custom parts for cars and works in a auto supply company and works on cars and he's been replacing parts left and right...the codes said fuel injector (#1) been replaced and still doesn't want to work. :mad:

mt700a1 · October 2005

I am puzzled.

Did you put gas in the car right before the problems started? If the gas station let the fuel level in their tank to too low, bad stuff could come out of the pump. It is unlikely but still a possibility.

Has the timing been checked? If the timing belt is loose and the belt skipped the teeth, the car won't run right. Symptoms of wrong timing would be loss of power and overheating. I would definitely check the timing if you haven't done so yet.

M

mt700a1 · October 2005

My previous comment refers to the valve timing, in which the timing belt plays a major role.

Ignition timing is timing for the spark plugs to fire, and it is not related to valve timing at all. It too can go out of adjustment, and "tuneup" service usually includes ignition timing check. You should have it checked as well.

Let me know how it goes.
M

gprior · October 2005

Hi,
I have a Fiat Punto 1.2 8Valve and it has a similar problem.
It will overheat within about 15 mins of starting, but just before light comes on, it will make a clicking sound with the throttle, and the more throttle i give it, the louder it gets. If i'm off the throttle, then go on it, i hear a fast click a few times, then it stops a bit, like a slipping, clicking, hard to describe on here.
I am getting a new thermostat fitted, so leaving it at that for now but i'll let you know what happens. Mine only does it when it's getting hot though.
Hopefully this should solve problem, no hot air through vents, thats why we think it's the thermostat... or the water pump?

dukeblu · October 2005

I'm thinking about buying a 2001/2002 Prizm but only want one with the 4 speed automatic. How do you visually tell the difference between the two. I'm assuming that very few sellers will have the original window sticker. Is the option code listed on the door as witrh other Chevys?

Wish they were still making this car new. 40 MPG in a automatic Prizm beats the hell out of a smaller less powerful Aveo that can only manage 35MPG

mt700a1 · October 2005

Check coolant level often. It you have to keep adding antifreeze in the radiator, you have a leak somewhere. If the coolant disappears but you see no external leaks, blown head gasket is a possibility.
Thermostat failure is fairly common so let's hope that solves the problem.

If it doesn't solve the problem, check ignition timing with a timing light. Check if the timing belt is tight. Clogged (internally or externally) radiator is another possibility. You can squeeze a radiator hose in your hand and see if the coolant is flowing once the engine warms up. Hoses should get hot as the engine gets hot, if the water pump is indeed circulating the coolant (be careful doing this). If the coolant is circulating, water pump should be ok.
Good Luck.
M

mt700a1 · October 2005

The 4th gear on 4spd model is overdrive. There is a little push button switch on the side of the shifter. Dashboard should have an indicator that comes on when the overdrive is off. That's usually that way it's set up, although I am not exactly sure on 2001/2 models.

Toyota Corolla is still in production and it is almost identical to the Prizm, except that the Corolla has gone through a model change since the last generation of Prizm/Corolla co-production. My GF has a 05 Corolla, and it is much quieter and more comfortable than my 94 Prizm.

The new bargain is going to be Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe. They are much more spacious than the Corolla and very good on gas. I expect the Vibe to depreciate in value much faster than the Matrix, and it will be just as reliable as the Matrix.

M

vandrennan1 · October 2005

My prizm has been using about a quart of oil a week. I could not figure out where the oil was going. There were no signs of oil leakage under the car and no smoke from the tailpipe. The car was running a little warm so I flushed the radiator and saw there was oil in the water. Also there is thick black greasy film on passenger side of car, front tire and outer front door panel. What is causing this? I have asked several people and they don't know. If it was a blown head gasket, wouldn't the water be in the oil instead of the oil in the water? I am a single female and have to do my own repairs. I rely on this car to support myself and would greatly appreciate any advise I can get. Also, I took the thermostat out and the car doesn't run on the hot side any more. I figure that the oil in the water had clogged up the thermostat. If anyone knows what may be causing this, please let me know. :confuse:

mt700a1 · November 2005

Oil leaking into the cooling system "overfills" the cooling system, and the coolant is overflowing from the coolant reservoir. But the coolant is contaminated with oil, so the tire well and door get coated with grease. Does this sound like a possible senario? How much oil did you find in the cooling system when you flushed it?

I would not assume that you need a new head gasket.
Some cars have engine oil cooler inside the cooling system. One possible location for this device is near the intake manifold. This takes hot oil from the engine to the coolant (in separate a tube of course) for cooling of engine oil. There may be a heat exchanger (should look llike mini-radiator within the cooling system) bathed in coolant, and if there is a leak, oil will end up leaking into the radiator.

I read somewhere that oil pressure in this oil cooler is typically higher than the coolant pressure, hence oil leaking into the coolant, not the other way around.

M

froggy1966 · November 2005

Update..after a new radiator, new fuel injectors, new temp sensor, new spark plugs and spark plugs wires and checking the compression which was real low on some of them I threw in the towel and traded it in for a 2002 Ford Focus SE. Hey the car did me good til the final stretch and with 185,000 was ready to be put to rest. So thanks for the suggestions you did give in a timely and helpful manner.

But hey shocked the guys when I got the book out and replaced some of the parts myself lol

ruddneck · November 2005

I've been dealing with the PO171 "Left Bank Lean" problem since May on my 2000 Prism (94K miles). I've had sealant added around the manifold, replaced the O2 sensors, replaced the gas cap, had the dealer clean the system (including the MAF allegedly), used premium gas with Lucas injector treatment, all to no avail--the check engine light will go off (or I'll turn it off via the fuse) then come back again (always 171, though I did get a PO300 "Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire" once--I appreciated the variety).

It's an annoyance, really, since the only symptom other than the light is a hestitation sometimes when accelarating from a stop (I'm extra cautious about pulling into traffic now!).

Out of solutions other than having the fuel filter replaced, which I imagine would be expensive as heck given its location, I'm wondering whether the PO171 problem may be related to another issue I had at the beginning of the summer, namely my A/C refusing to cool. I added more refrigerant without any luck, then replaced the filter/orifice, which was completely clogged, and refilled with coolant. Both times the car cooled for a day, then stopped. I have an ultraviolet light to pick up the dye in the coolant, but I can't detect any leaks.

I'm out of ideas, so I'm wondering whether ya'll might think there's a connection, however unlikely, between the PO171 issue and the failure of the A/C to cool. Or, if you have more suggestions on how to remedy either, I'd welcome them!

Thanks!

mdfloyd · November 2005

I have a 92 Geo Prizm with 144000 miles. Runs fine except that it's taken to not starting when the temperature reaches 30 or below. I've had the starter and alternator and ignition replaced and it has a new battery. I don't want to put in a lot of money on this car since it's 13-years-old but I would like to get through the coming winter.

Anybody else have a problem like this?

florus · December 2005

Hi I have the same problem with my prism 93 cooling fan is running with the switch on,did u fix the problem?if yes,how,can u help me?thank you.

ruddneck · December 2005

Update: I took the car back to a dealership where I was told to expect to leave it for several days while the mechanics drove it until the check engine light came back on. Because the Prizm computer is so small, they said, the best diagnostic info is obtained as soon as the light goes on.

However, I heard back from the dealer an hour or two after I dropped the car off. As with other folks' experience with this problem, it was the mass air flow sensor. Parts and labor and a new sensor cost me $352.99 overall. Pricey, but the car runs like new now, and even the A/C seems to cool quicker (though I reckon I have to wait till summer to test that out fully!).

staci1 · December 2005

Yeah, so i have a 92 Geo Prizm also and recently the temperatures here have reached the low 30s and now i cant even turn my ignition. the key goes in but will not budge. i do not know why and am very frustrated. is this similar to your problem at all. we need some answers!

chedle · December 2005

We have a '93 Geo Prizm...same problem! When the weather is cold, it may start or not. Battery is fine. All connections are tight. Sometimes a clicking noise when it is trying to turn over, sometimes nothing. However it will kick over fine when connected to another car for a "jump". This problem has started only now, with the coming of the cold temperatures. Anybody with any ideas??

shawnvw · December 2005

I had some repairs done to my 1998 Prizm LSi yesterday, and I told them that the panel under the shift lever -- the one that reads "PRND2L" -- doesn't light up any more. The repair guy said that after opening it up, he couldn't find place to PUT a light bulb. I'm sure I remember being able to see the shifter setting in the dark before.

Am I wrong? Or will my repairman have to remove the entire shifter cover to replace the bulb?

Shawn

catfish172 · December 2005

Brief history: I was returning home from a short trip ~25 miles. I let off the accelerator to turn right into my subdivision and the engine died. :confuse: It restarted and ran rough until i parked it in my driveway 2 blocks from where it died. Since then it stalls at traffic stops and depending how it stalls: either restarts immediately if it just dies or takes a minute or two if it sputters, seems to diesel, run backward and back flow through intake. Sometimes rough on acceleration sometimes smooth. When rough sometimes gentle pumping would let it catch and become smooth.

Parts replaced so far:

O2 sensor - no change in symptoms

Fuel Filter - no change in symptoms

Fuel Pump and pressure regulator - better for awhile but symptoms returned a week later.

Drove to Nascar race in Atlanta ~350 miles one way. It went smooth on the interstate and highways with no problems as long as I didn't have to stop for a traffic light or stop sign. Only died twice on the way and twice on the way back. Averaged 35 M.P.G. for the trip.

Timing Belt and alternator belt not for symptoms but wanted it done anyway - ran great that evening even through mechanics test drive but when I went to test drive it the symptoms returned. Next morning it wouldn't start at all. When checked found plenty of spark but no pulse at fuel injectors. :sick:

ECU - (obtained at reasonable price from eBay with warranty) Finally got it to start but symptoms remain. Next morning no start again. Found code retrieval info and got code from ECU that read normal (steady flash).

Throttle Position Sensor (changed but not adjusted to specs as we couldn't find pin outs to follow adjustment procedure)- Drove to parts store where it "acted up" on the way to and on the return trip. Checked ECU for code and retrieved code 31 .

M.A.P. Sensor - Finally got it to start again but accelleration again produces different results. Sometimes it is smooth. Sometimes it chokes, dies, diesels and hard to restart. Sometimes dies right away on accelleration and easy to restart. Next morning no start again. :mad: ECU returns no code .

This is where I am at after 7 months of chasing my tail and my Mechanic is just pulling his hair out now. Any ideas out there????? This is my only car and now has me stranded until I get this solved. The no starting just started since the weather turned cold. I only paid $600 US for the car when I bought it in April, 2005, now I'm at ~$760 in parts and labor since July. I'm willing to put a little more change into it since the gas mileage is so good on it though.

bobbip · December 2005

My heater will not work. I've checked the fuses, wiring, etc. but cannot find the problem. I have 3 children riding in this car with me and it's about 12 degrees in the morning when we leave with no heat!! I am on a limited income so I cannot afford to take my car to a mechanic. Someone please help me!!! P.S. I bought this car in May for $600. I have spent already $1500 to fix all kinds of problems (replaced the entire brake system etc.) so I am now broke AND freezing!!!

mt700a1 · December 2005

I feel your pain... what year is the car?
Few simple items to check:

Coolant level & condition- Do you have enough? If you or the previous owner kept adding water to the radiator, it may not circulate well through the heater core when it is partially frozen.

Temp gauge-is the engine really warming up? See if the temp gauge needle goes up to where it normally does in warmer months. If the thermostat is stuck open, your car may never reach the operating temp. Then the heater would not work. Bad for engine too. Symptoms: the car takes very long time to warm up. In stop and go traffic the temp gauge needle creeps up, but in constant highway speed it begins to cool all the way to where you started in the morning. If this is the case and if you can be EXTREMELY CAREFUL, you might try blocking 1/2 of the radiator with a piece of cardboard. This an emergency measure, and it will work on the highway, but could lead to severe overheating in stop and go traffic. I have used this method before but I kept very close eye on the temp gauge and replaced the thremostat as soon as possible. A couple of times I had to stop and pull the cardboard out to prevent overheating in stop and go traffic.

Heater control knob-if it is broken and/or slipping, it may not be moving the actual temp control lever.

There are space-heater like devices that you can plug into the cigrette lighter. You can get one at any auto parts store. At 600 watts it is not strong, but might serve as a hand warmer. This is obviously a temporary measure, because the alternator has to work hard to supply that kind of output. But if you are really frezing and can't fix the problem right away... Make sure you don't kill the battery with it. It is worse to get stuck with a dead battery when it's 12 degrees out.
Good luck

mt700a1 · December 2005

I'll assume that you know for sure that the battery is in good shape. If the car starts every time it is jumped but not on its own, I suspect the battery cable. Probably the negative cable, corroded or otherwise damaged. You connect the red jumper cable to the positive battery terminal but the black goes on the engine block. If this works every time, then the problem is either battery itself or the cable that cannot carry large enough current to start the car. It takes larger current to turn over the engine when cold, and battery is weaker when cold. If you have a bad cable problems still could be temperature dependent.

If you checked the battery, battery cables, and cable connections (both battery side and car side), the next stop is the starter itself. Starter solenoid can fail, starter itself can fail in such a way that it requires larger current to turn over the engine.

gregory3 · January 2006

I have a 1996 Geo Prizm Lsi (manual) and recently I have been having issues with the heat. I lose heat when idling. I get no heat after warming the car up, but I do get heat when driving. The temperature gauge reads in the middle where it normally does, however I did notice once that when idling (and losing heat), it would rise briefly and then drop again (also sounds as if a fan came on to.
Any ideas what the issue could be?
Thanks

mt700a1 · January 2006

Check the blower (fan motor for heat/ac, NOT the radiator fan) operation. If the fan is not running, the only time you get heated air through the vent is when the car is in motion and wind is forcing air through the vent. Fan speed selector switch typically uses resistors to control fan speed, and they fail from time to time. Or it could be the blower motor itself. Check the fuse box first.

If the problem is not fan related check the standard items like coolant level and thrmostat operation. If the thermostat is partially stuck you might see overheating in warmer weather. It could also keep the coolant from flowing into the heater core at low water pump pressuer at low rpm.

My prime suspect is the fuse for the fan.

Good luck.
M

louji · January 2006

My 1990 Geo Prizm makes an absurd noise every time I hit 35 mph. Now I can't even go beyond 45 mph. The car seems to have power whenever I hit the gas. I've changed oil and filter but that didn't help. This car was fine until I drove it to NYC for the holidays. I cannot stand the weird noise and I'm thinking of donating this car but I need it for a few more months. Will somebody please help me with this problem

?

mt700a1 · January 2006

What does it sound like? Does it run ok before it warms up? Did you run out of oil or coolant before it started making that noise? How does it run under 35mph? Is it automatic or stick? If automatic, does it shift properly?

louji · January 2006

Thanks for replying. It sounds like grinding /growling, like something is blocking the gas to flow beyond 45mph. It's wicked loud. I think it did run out of oil when I got home. The car is still running ok under 35mph. I checked the coolant tank. It sort of full but the white tank has about 1/4 on it and it doesn't change. It's automatic and it does shift properly. I'm draining the coolant tank tomorrow and changing all the spark plugs. I have only used the car for about 50/100 miles since we changed the oil and today it's empty. This car has about 139,000 miles and it was running fine until I travelled for about 400 miles. How can you tell if the timing belt is still ok?

mt700a1 · January 2006

I don't think there is a good way to tell if the timing belt is ok. If it is in one piece with no frayed edges it is doing the job for the moment. It should be replaced every 60000 miles, regardless how it looks. More important is the timing itself. Have someone check the timing with proper equipment. But check the following items first.

How low does the oil get? In 100 miles, does it burn 1 quart or more? If so, you should also see black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. If this is the case it is likely that something happened to the piston rings. Have a mechanic check the compresstion in each cylinder. I don't know how much a ring job should cost. But whatever it is, it will not be worthwhile unless you are absolutely sure that low oil level did not cause other internal damages.

OR the car is leaking oil in the driveway...Easy to check.

OR the oil is leaking into the cooling system. Take the radiator cap off (when cold) and see if the coolant comes up all the way to the cap. When you drain the coolant make sure it is nice and green with no oil mixed in it. If you find oil in coolant...head gasket is blown and you probably don't want to spend the money to repair that.

Don't change anything expensive...just yet. Spark plugs did not cause this problem, but they might be dirty if the engine is burning oil.

I am sorry to have to suggest this but I suspect that the oil level was allowed to go too low, and bearings and piston rings got burnt up, hence the awful noise. You may have timing belt issues as well, but that cannot cause the engine to burn oil. Noticeable change in oil level in 100 miles is not good. Are you sure?

louji · January 2006

The radiator cap has Brownish color. If the head gasket is blown. I really don't want to spend to much money on this car.
Thanks so much...

fred3 · January 2006

I've got a 1995 Geo Prizm LSi, with only 40,000 miles on it. Runs great, and have had minimal issues. Recently, my wife had a minor parking-lot fender bender, where the car was hit in the front, on the right hand side. There's some damage to the front bumper, the front headlight was pushed a little out of place, and the hood is a bit out of shape. We were quoted $2,000 to fix, about half of which is for the hood.

I would assume that the bumper and headlight must be fixed, as potential safety issues on the car, but what abut the hood? Is there a safety issue with the hood, or is it purely aesthetic?

mt700a1 · January 2006

I'd say it's cosmetic if these conditions are met:

1. The hood does not block driver's view.
2. The hood is not damaged in such a way that it catches a lot of wind at high speed. If it does, the hood release latch is the only thing that's keeping it from flying off the car. The latch itself may have been damaged by the impact, so you should inspect it very carefully.

A used hood from a junkyard should be available at a fraction of the quoted cost ($1000). You might want to look into that option.
M

oolieiv · January 2006

I was using an inverter in the cigarette lighter of my 99 prism . Suddenly, it stopped powering the inverter. Then when I tried a cell phone charger in it, that didn't get any power either. I checked the fuse and it looks to be fine. I was just wondering what else I might be able to do in order to fix the problem.

mt700a1 · January 2006

If you are sure that the fuse is ok, the problem is probably the ligher socket itself. Remove the plastic panel around it (it might just pop out or you may need a screw driver) and it should be easy to remove the socket. It is simple enough so you can either try to fix it or buy a new one.

Make sure you disconnect the battery's negative (-) terminal before attempting to remove the part, unless you want to see some sparks!

If you see burnt wires or connections it means you were drawing too much power from the lighter. It will happen again if you plug in a high wattage appliance into the inverter. Remember never to substitute a larger fuse to prevent a blown fuse. Always use the correct amp fuse designed for the part. You would rather have blown fuses than burnt wire somewhere in the circuit, or worse yet the car catching on fire!!!
Good luck.
M

asafonov · January 2006

I would like to equip my "spare" 96 Geo Prizm with a roof rack to turn it into an extra-light-duty "truck" capable of, say, carrying a door or two from a hardware store. Would appreciate answers to the questions:

1. Is it even reasonable to use a roof rack to transport 100 lb or so on such a small car?

2. If it is ok: what brand/model of racks is recommended?

3. How to find what is compatible with my vehicle? I did some googling for fit lists but the results are unconclusive.

TIA,

jchallenger · February 2006

I don't know if this will be helpful at all, but we transported a freezer on the roof of our 97 prizm with no problems.

Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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