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Comments
Steve
1. Top motor mount replaced.
2. Auto transmission serviced.
3. Spark plug wires replaced.
4. Fuel filter replaced.
I had proof of all but the motor mount, so I replaced the motor mount and decided to keep the car. It now has 59K and runs great.
The transmission filter is a spin on filter located under the air box in left front section of the engine compartment. I suggest useing Saturn filter and Saturn auto trans fluid.
I also think it is a good idea to replace the fuel filter because if it is restricted it can confuse the computer controlled transmission and shift at the wrong time.
He said since I do my own maintenance they could not check it out with the service department.
I thought 5K was a good price, so I didn't mind the silly stuff. We just didn't like the L enough to trade.
Even though they did not ask about service, it is possible the appraiser check'd out your service record by entering the VIN in the service computer.
thanks
Brake fluid flush, plug wires, PCV valve, timing belt? I don't see any reference to these in the owners manual. Would it be wise to service any of these items?
A bit of high noise level when driving (not at idle). What is 'motor mount' issue? What are symptoms - and ballpark cost to repair? Any issue if you just continue driving on a (degraded) motor mount?
Saw reference to 'red' vs. 'green' coolant. I have red. Is it really true I can't have coolant flushed and replaced with (green) or any other quality coolant? Thought I seen a reference along this line in earlier post. But I had never before heard of not being able to mix - especially if you flushed system prior. Insight?
Thanks for you help folks.
Always serviced by Saturn. Alternator replaced 10k/10 months ago; brakes 15k ago; original everything else.
My mechanic checked and said:
Exhaust system rust, will need replacement but not yet...$300?
<50% tire tread, recommends new rubber all around for winter...$250?
Oil pan leak (actually just "collecting" on pan, not really leaking)...gasket $200?...gasket+pan $350?
PS pump weak...showed "moisture", heard a little noise...when it goes $350?
Original struts...weak...noise on bumps...$700-800?
Original clutch, grabs at end, when it goes $600-800?
Engine good, compartment clean, no leaks.
This seems a low enough price that I could pop for rubber and do the exhaust when it goes and still be just under private party value.
Little worried about the oil pan "leak"
Figure the struts are non-issue since ride was not objectionable in the least. Ditto the clutch since pedal movement was OK, and she shifted fine.
Anyone and everyone, opinions most appreciated!This will be a 3rd car, maybe doing 8-12k a year, and I wouldn't mind having it around for 2-1/2 years for when my son starts driving.
Thanks!
1. transmission quill bearing.
2. intake manifold coolant leak.
3. clutch failed at 42 k.
4. battery went dead (AC Delco battery) at 3 years and leaked acid ruining cables.
5. electrical short that kept the lights on.
The first two years of ownership went well and then the car needed all of the above repairs. After each repair, I was hoping to ride out a year or two without trouble, however, things just kept breaking. Prior to the Saturn, I had owned a 1993 Chevy S-10 pickup for 6 years without having to repair anything. I wanted to stay with GM vehicles (a type of economic patriotism), however, after the fifth repair I finally traded the vehicle in towards a Toyota truck. Has anyone else had similar experiences with this vehicle?
I made that mistake before. I replaced the transmission on a 87 Taurus for $1800, then within two months I noticed a antifreeze leak from the cylinder head gasket and the Air conditioner quit again. That's when I traded for the 96 Saturn I have now. They gave me $1700 for the Taurus.
In my opinion, for someone who can't afford to take a chance on a used car, It's hard to beat the Korean cars with the security of the 5Yr-60K bumper to bumper and 10Yr-100K drive train warranty for less than $200 a month.
But PLEASE ... one can not even use the word reliable in the same sentence at "Jeep Grand Cherokee." That vehicle is one of the most unreliable vehicles possible to buy. Check Consumer Reports or ANY other organization that does reliability surveys/estimates.
If you have some sort of reverse reliability power, then just as you had problems with your Saturn (generally a 4 or 5 star reliability rating) then your Jeep should be one of the most reliable cars ever.
Sorry.
I changed the spark plugs, wires and both iginition coils. I have also recently put on a new converter and oxygen sensor. The light still comes on when going downhill.
Thanks for any clues.
I started looking at Saturns because they have a lot in them for the money and they do not cost as much as used Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans/Mazdas.
I have seen SL1s and SL2s with 4-Whl ABS/Air/Cruise/Pwr Windows&Locks/AM/FM/Cassette/4-spd Auto for around $6,000-$8,000. Comparable Japanese models aforementioned are in the $12,000-$16,000 range, so the savings is obvious.
My only concern is, after reading many of the posts in the Saturn forums, is that I will not see the same "bullet-proof" quality and reliability in a Saturn that i have gotten from my Corolla (see my post cheetah222 "Toyota Corolla" Oct 9, 2003 10:57am)
My question to all of you, in all honesty, can I reasonably expect a good quality car that I can get 250,000 or more miles out of if I go with a Saturn?
Do any of you have, or know someone who does have, a Saturn with over 200k miles on it?
I am just warning anyone who is buyin a used Saturn 5 speed-replaceing the clutch is EXPENSIVE. Mine had problems and was replaced under warranty along with the master cylinder. It woould have cost over $1200 to if I had to have paid for it. My sisters 97 SC1 needs a new clutch after 110K and she is facing the same price.
Just be careful with those high mileage 5 speeds. If it is shifting very stiffly clutch replacement is not far down the road...
Somewhere I read that it is an 8 hour job, 90/hr x 8 = $720 just for labor. I remember my dad had the clutch replaced in a Volvo around 1978 and that was $220 at the dealer, and he had a cow about paying that much. With inflation of about 3.5X since then it, maybe thats about right.
Depends on the design.
FYI...this was the first belt I had ever changed.
Looking for info on a roof rack for the car. ie is the factory rack a good one? Are there cheaper roof racks that can be used??
Will appreciate any help/suggestions.