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Saturn S-Series

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Comments

  • patricsaintpatricsaint Member Posts: 1
    Started a few weeks back a couple days after an oil change/fall servicing. Coolant warning light came on and stayed on. Occasional minor coolant smell but no leakage in the driveway. Started monitoring the coolant level which was lowering slowly but steadily. Called to set up an appointment and after telling them the symptoms, they advised it might be the intake manifold (gasket) leaking coolant.
    Well, they were right. Just got back from servicing. They did a coolant pressure check, and found it necessary to replace said gasket and also the coolant cap. The whole process took a little less than 2 hours. No bill, still under warranty.
    So I'm just wondering how common this repair has been. Thanks for any thoughts....
  • dennismoddennismod Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 1999 SW-2. The car seams to be idling to fast. When in Drive its at 850 RPM's and in Neutral about 1000 to 1100 RPM's. When shifting from Drive to Neutral the RPM's will go from 850 to 1200 to 1300 briefly and then back to 1000. Is this normal? Any suggestions.
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    There should be a sticker showing the proper idle speed. It may be in the manual as well.
  • sleepy255sleepy255 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 SL2 and yesterday I noticed that when you turn the headlights on the lights on the dashboard and gear shift don't come on anymore. This makes driving at night very difficult. Today they came on twice but didn't stay on very long. I called the Saturn Serice shop and of course they told me to bring it in. Has anyone else ever experienced this and if so how do I fix it. I'd hate to pay a mechanic $200 to replace a fuse or something.

    Please Help
  • dutch4505dutch4505 Member Posts: 15
    Bought a used 2002 SL1 that is still under warranty. 18k miles. The keys I received from the Oldsmobile dealership only work for the ignition and drivers side door. Do not work for the truck or passenger side door.

    The local Saturn dealership has cut new keys from the car code a number of times but the new keys do not work either. The locks may have to be fixed but the Saturn dealership will not cover under warranty. They want to charge 6 hours @ 75/hour plus parts plus tax.

    Has anyone else had warranty problems with saturn??? It was ironic that the service manager was standing under their sign "Number one in JD Power Rating of Customer Service" when she told me that I would have to pay for warranty work. She also gave me an option to continue using the keys as I have been. This however is a real hassle.
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    Are you sure the dash lights are turned up? There should be a way to adjust the brightness. But, that should not affect the gear selector lights. Your car--assuming you have under 36k mi--is under it's bumper to bumper warranty. You should not pay a dime to get it fixed. Good luck.
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    It sounds like you have the valet key for your car and the dealership cut you a new one. I don't see how they could say that the locks are not covered by warranty. You should talk to the dealership's general manager and also to Saturn. I don't see how they could not fix it for you. The good news is that at least you can enter your car and start it up while this is going on!
  • drummersdaddrummersdad Member Posts: 1
    The sunroof on my 98 SL2 refused to close the last few inches. The dealer found a broken PLASTIC track. Cost to repair, after a 15% discount, is $1000 to replace the entire module (motor and tracks). This is outrageous! If anyone out there is considering buying a Saturn, think twice, and if you want the sunroof, better start saving now for the eventual repair bill. The dealer's technician told me his Aunt lost hers after just four years of use! What a piece of junk.
  • townhometownhome Member Posts: 104
    I was so excited to buy my new Saturn SL2, and the buying experience was great. But when the car started breaking down and leaving my wife stranded,I figured I got a lemon. I can understand that machines break, but what I couldn't stand was the dealership. When we went in for maintance, they were great. They always left a rose on the seat when we went to pick it up. But as soon as the car began having problems, they grew rude and unhelpful. Finally, when the car wouldn't accelerate beyond 20 MPH and they told me what the problem was without even opening the hood or driving the car, I gave up. I opened the hood and found two spark plugs covered with oil which was leaking from somewhere. The extended warranty was going to expire in 50 miles, so I drove to the VW dealer across the street and traded it in. I'm not mad about the car breaking, but I am furious with the dealer ( and with Saturn -- they ignored all of my emails, letters, and phone calls.) Don't believe the hype!
  • birdman579birdman579 Member Posts: 151
    townhome: did you try going to a different dealer? My dealer has been nothing short of outstanding in 11 years and 160K miles. They fix every problem the first time and for a very competitive price. There were a few items that required a repair shortly after the warranty was expired so they gave a discount on the repairs. Knock on wood, it looks like my car will easily get to 200K miles. It seems like you got one of the few bad Saturn dealers out there.
  • townhometownhome Member Posts: 104
    It's true that I didn't go to another dealer with my last problem, but in the time I had the car, I visted 3 dealers within the L.A. area, and I wasn't pleased with any of them. They were all fine for maintance, but they were either just "regular" or rude and ugly when it came to fixing any of the many problems I was having. I would say they were all equal to the bad Toyota dealers I have visited with my old truck, but way below the high standards of the two VW dealers I have used for my Jetta. The part that really makes me mad is Saturn Corp. not caring at all about my complaints.
  • lostheartslosthearts Member Posts: 6
    I tried 3 times to get an answer to questions I had about one of the "internet specials" the dealer had on a 95 Saturn sedan and nobody even bothered to reply. So much for Saturn's caring about the customer. Talk about being turned off even before setting foot at the dealership. What gives? I just wanted to know if the car had power windows. Maybe they didn't want to give me the $400 off the already low sale price!
  • jfenec01jfenec01 Member Posts: 1
    I own a sl2 2000 model it is wet on the passenger side of it. water is dripping in from the handle above the door on the passenger side, some one said it could be the drains, what do you think? joe
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
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  • jumpnjoejumpnjoe Member Posts: 34
    I have had a 95 Saturn SL2 for the last 6 years. I've only had rountine maintenance (oil changes etc.) and two mufflers over that time. It was always reliable and a great point A to point B vehicle. Only complaint was that it is too low, not a great feature in deep snow in MA. Just decided it is time for a new car. Now that I can afford it, I'm getting an Accord V6. Nothing against the Saturn experience, it's a solid car, just not very exciting. The Accord has much more get up and go, handles better and has a luxury interior. The Saturn kept me out of the service station for 6 years and without payments for about 4 of them. I did like the plastic door panels, helped to keep the car looking good.
  • kdarmkdarm Member Posts: 4
    I'm looking for a new to me car and have found a good deal on a 98 SL2 loaded with twin cam and automatic transmission. Can anyone tell me their history of gas mileage and problems with this particular model?

    This one has 85000 miles on it. The garage has replaced a valve cover thought to be causing the leaking oil. It has about a 5 inch crack in the back fender panel near the trunk.

    It sounds like a good car, though I'd rather drive a standard, but would like to hear about the mileage first. I drive 58 miles most days and 75 on others.

    Thanks for your input.
  • sm821sm821 Member Posts: 1
    I too have a 98 SC2 and have had to repair the plastic sunroof track twice. Along with that the air conditioning has broke, the water pump, the thermostat, belt, new ignition, and numerous other problems all in the past year. Once I hit 100,000 miles things just started breaking right and left. Currently the transmission is getting stuck in park (automatic) and the key is getting stuck in the ignition. They told me that I need to replace the ignition and a new transmisson which would cost more than the car is worth. The dealerships rip you off with the repair costs and were pretty rude. Im trying to get rid of it to be replaced by a honda accord, and I will never own a saturn again. Beware!
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    Although not exactly the same, I had a 5-speed 2000 SW2 for a while. The SC, SL and SW shared the same 124 hp DOHC engine during the 2000 year, and I assume for 1998. The gas mileage was good (listed 28-37 mpg, measured 40 on about 10 occasions with all highway driving, averaged about 34 with mixed driving). For the 2000 model year, at least 15 % of the vehicles had the intake manifold gasket fail (reasonably cheap $300). The AC Delco battery will unexpectedly fail and leak. I also had some transmission problems (quill bearing). I traded the car in about a year ago. A "good" deal on this vehicle would be < $3,500 if the mileage is under 80,000 and the body is in perfect condition. Otherwise, try for a Geo Prism. You get the reliability of a Toyota Corolla and the undeserved American car type depreciation of a Chevy Cavalier (good if you are going to buy it used).
  • sattoolsattool Member Posts: 1
    For a while now the oil and coolant lights have been flashing. However, no real problem has been found with the car until the other day. Driving down the highway it started knocking. Pulled over and discovered it was short 3 quarts of oil. Oil change just 1000 miles ago. Checked drain plug and its secure. No obvious leaks. However, looking in the coolant reservoir tank I see a sludgy mix of something. Someone told me the head gasket may need to be replaced and may be causing the oil and antifreeze to mix. After one day of driving I still have oil and things seem to be normal, except for the flashing lights. Thoughts?

    On another note, one day i entered the car using jus they key and not the remote. The car went into panic mode as if I had hit the panic button on the remote. Putting the key in the ignition didnt resolve. I had to use the remote to lock the doors to get it to stop. Thoughts?

    thanks.
  • blackpacificblackpacific Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Saturn SW2. Back in November I noticed oil sludge in the coolant side of things, but no coolant on the oil side. I assumed that the head gasket had failed (@ only 72K), so I pulled the head, had it resurfaced, put in a new gasket, used the old bolts, and zipped it back up. I noticed right away that there was now lots of coolant in the oil side of things, and no oil in the coolant. I pulled the head off again, had the head pressure checked, and it was fine. I got in a tiff with the local Saturn dealer about whether I should have used new head bolts. Another engine, a long block, became available, so rather than mess with the original block/head, I dropped the long block in. I zipped it up, ran it, and it began to leak oil profusely. Again, there was lots of coolant in the oil side, no oil in the coolant. The excess oil/coolant was going overboard at a port just below the intake manifold near cylinder #1.

    Here is my question to Saturn home mechanics who might know the answer. Is there any other interface, besides the head gasket plane, where oil and coolant can come together? For example, the intake manifold, a radiator with side oil coolers, etc....I find it hard to believe that I've got another failed head gasket on a totally different motor. This motor came out of a wreck that had only 29K miles on it.
  • alexzevahcalexzevahc Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes the key wont turn unless I jerk the wheel around for a bit, any clue why?. And now bouth key chain remotes arnt working.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    It is not uncommon in any car to have to loosen the steering wheel by pulling on it (not necessarily "jerking it around a bit") before the key will turn.
  • k2reidk2reid Member Posts: 1
    Back in September I had the same thing happen...I noticed I was low on oil and looked around for it and found it in the coolant...2 to 3 weeks prior to that my coolant light had started coming on...

    To make a long story short your cylinder head is likely cracked on one of the cam journals...it is a very common problem for these...
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Member Posts: 36
    This thing does not want to be repaired for 6 days after adjusting idle it behaved--no codes now back to map[ code again--no vac problem according to gauge--could it be connection to engine or connection to brake booster--hear a whoosh noise when applying brake not loud--pedal down :lemon:
  • samircsamirc Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a saturn sc1 2000 model. It has done about 59K miles. Lately it has been giving me trouble starting. The engine starts fine, however as soon as I put it in gear the engine dies. I have to rev real hard, put it in gear and immediately set off. However after driving for sometime it continues to idle(when i stop at lights) without dying. But if i switch off the engine and try restarting it again has trouble starting off. Any ideas as to what the cause is?
  • rayg1rayg1 Member Posts: 1
    hello group I have a 95 saturn sc2 with a nasty noise. i was told it could be a lack of oil pressure at the timing chain tensioner so the tensioner was replaced (and yes it did seem clogged ) everything reassembled and now the noise is as bad if not worse. the vehicle accelerates fine, no lack of power but this noise is very obvious. any suggestions PLEASE. thanks in advance.
  • princesslalaprincesslala Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 1999 SC2 used a few months ago. Over the last week it has started flashing the lights on the dash, oil and coolant? It doens't do it every time and if I turn the car off then back on, the flashing lights stop....I would appreciate any ideas about this... :confuse:
  • soundgardensoundgarden Member Posts: 5
    I have a 97 Saturn SL2 1.9L DOHC. All of the lifters on the exhaust side are shot so I figured I would just order a remanufactured head from Clearwater Cylinder Heads. I received the head yesterday and noticed a problem. The EGR valve sits at a incline degree of 45 were as the EGR valve on the OEM head sits flat but at a 45 degree angle from the head. Is the EGR valve incline angle going to make a difference and create problems? Thanks for any info
  • soundgardensoundgarden Member Posts: 5
    Well Clearwater is taking it back so sending it back and waiting another week!!
  • soundgardensoundgarden Member Posts: 5
    Well I just put my cylinder head on and the car runs but it seems I am burning an excessive amount of fuel. The reason I say this is because if I sit at a stop light or parked for 3-5min with the engine running, the engine acts like it wants to die the longer in idle or when I take off is really sluggish. I am thinking about taking the car to Saturn tomorrow to have them look at it because I have been fooling with this car for about a month and it just seems a problem after a problem keeps appearing. If any ideas thanks again for the info!
  • linzsterlinzster Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Saturn SL2 and it is doing the exact same thing. Have you found out what is causing it? If so, I would really appreciate your help.
  • soundgardensoundgarden Member Posts: 5
    I had this problem and all I had to do was replace the Alternator.
  • evajoesavevajoesav Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Saturn SL. It has started making a loud noise when I put it into reverse. It also does it occasionally when I am driving. We have checked all the mounts and the transmission seems to be fine. Anyone that has any ideas let me know. :confuse:
  • soundgardensoundgarden Member Posts: 5
    I am thinking now my problem is the catalytic converter. I have read some info and read that if clogged causes great performance loss, increased engine temp, and some exhaust smoke/smell. I am having all of these problems so looking into replacing the converter.
  • o2ito2it Member Posts: 2
    I have had the car in the shop numerous times to find out why it dies when making a turn. The car is a 1999 Saturn SL2. It normally does this when the gas tank is not full. Will this show an error code in the computer if there are no error lights such as check engine lit. It doesn't happen all the time. Today, it is around 99 degrees F outside and the gas tank is not full when the problem occured. Any thoughts?
  • o2ito2it Member Posts: 2
    Have more data. The car actually dies when a quick stop or sharp turn is made. All the indication lamps are lit. No error codes show in the computer.
  • moerodmoerod Member Posts: 7
    anyone know how to replace the driver side mirror with the remote manual controls. i don't know how complicated removeing those cables will be and does anyone know if the aftermarket replacement mirrors come with the cables or are those removed from the mirror and re attached. any help please would be great.
  • pstegnerpstegner Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 saturn sl 1 4 dr sedan... single cam engine... i also have a blown head gasket... which apparently is going to be a huge problem to fix... none of my local garages want to touch it, something about it being like a neon, hard to fix or something... other then actually tearring down the engine to get to the gasket, how hard is this going to be? is it even worth it? it was a good car... but should i waste my time? i'd really hate to have to get rid of it and buy another one...
  • drewydrewy Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have my sisters saturn sl2 1992.. it was her engagement car and she wanted to keep it in the family... blah blah

    Anyway... I just gave the car to my good friend and his dad works on cars... well the battery was dead, so we put a new one in.

    After we did that we did an alternator test, (that's when you disconnect the negative cable from the battery to see if the car shuts off) Well the car shut off and his dad said it needed a new alternator. So we went out to Autozone and his dad installed it for us.

    So we did another alternator test and it died again, so obviously it wasn't the alternator and he did all that work for nothing.

    Could someone please answer me this: Do alternator tests not work on Saturns or might there be something else wrong with the car?

    ALSO The engine fan stopped running so we had a toggle switch installed that hooks right up to the fuse box (I believe).

    And there is a remote start installed too..

    I don't know if that would do anything..

    COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT?? :confuse:
  • au94au94 Member Posts: 171
    Hi All:
    What should I expect to pay to have the auto trans rebuilt in a 98 SL1. Step daughter has 115k on hers and its slippping. Hopefully the rebuild is the last resort. Thanks in advance.
  • stevestar99stevestar99 Member Posts: 1
    There&#146;s a great site with service info. Saturnfans.com, but you better not say anything bad about a Saturn. I was at this site looking for a little help with the service codes, when I noticed there was a lot problems related to the cooling system. I made the statement that the electronics that control the cooling fan was a poor design. Well I&#146;ve been pretty much expelled from the site. I &#145;m an electronic tech and I reworked its fan circuit the day I got the car. Many people are having problems with cracked heads, split radiators and cooling fans not coming on. People having problems with their cars is nothing new and can be expected. What floored me were the statements from the Saturn professionals (service managers, service tech, etc) that crack heads and multiple radiator replacement was normal &#147; wear and tear&#148;. Plugs, belts, bearings, and bushings are normal wear and tear, not cracked heads. I pointed out that my 95 SL1 had 210,000 miles on it and I haven&#146;t replaced any of the laundry list of things, which they deem as normal wear and tear. Their response to my trouble free mileage was that it&#146;s a pure coincidence. The same techs that are saying there&#146;s nothing wrong with it are saying it&#146;s a good idea to put the manual fan switch in. I posted my adjustable temp. electronic switch as an alternative to their manual switch and that was the end of me.
    The old pull the neg. battery cable test only work on cars without electronic controllers. (pre-80&#146;s). If you want to check an alternator on a new car, you need a multi-meter (VOM). You can pick-up a cheap one all most anywhere. Put in meter on the volt scale and read the battery with the engine off. It should read around 12 volts (11v-12.5v) When the engine is running and your charging system is working properly, it will read around 14 volts (13.5v-14.5v). Note; new cars with alarms, remote starters, etc., will drain down a battery if the car is not started on a regular basis. If the car battery looses it charge, you got other problems to deal with. Your anti-theft radio will need to be reset with the factory codes and the car&#146;s CPU may need a code reset. Good luck!
  • lorelore Member Posts: 17
    I was stuck with my wife's 2000 SL2, pretty much broke down. Whenever it would rain, the car would do a "chitty chitty bang bang" thing and idle roughly. It still worked, just took longer to warm up and all. We had it in the shop last year and the mechanics fixed it up pretty well. One of the cylinders wasn't firing, and got it fixed.

    Well it was a year and a half later and we run into similar problems. Took it in to another mechanic and there was a hole in the muffler. That and there were 10 errors that showed up on the computer, the engine was mis-firing again it seemed. Well instead of trying to look for what was wrong, and/or it being a possible electrical problem we decided to trade the car in.

    I used to car to get to work for about 4 months, the 4th one having the most problems. I could barely make it up a hill some mornings, it would stall and I would have to restart. The whole transmission was outta wack and I had zero pickup. Sometimes in rush hour the engine would get hot, prob due to the coolent system everyone is talking about. It was just the strangest simptoms, was a TSB out about the computer timing. Basically it would have cost us money to have the dealership or mechanic try to find the problem, let alone how much it wouldve cost to fix it. It was time to let it go.
  • dragonbravodragonbravo Member Posts: 1
    My trans just went out on my '94 SL2. 165,000 miles and this is the first major mechanical breakdown. Is this a great car or what? Maybe I'm just lucky. A transmisson shop had to take a guess at $1700-$2000 for an overhaul because they said they never see any Saturns, "They just don't break." They estimated $500-$650 for a used trany. If they "just don't break" then I'm thinking of throwing a used on it and waiting till the Aura comes out.
  • lady767lady767 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 SC1 and it's been giving me the same problem. It's been idling for 3yrs and each time I take it to the dealer, no can find anything wrong with it. Like you, I can be at a stop light and the idling will start. On October 4, 2005, the gas peddle became stuck! I called :mad: :mad: :mad: the Saturn hot line and was basically told there was nothing they could do since the warranty just went out. I don't know what to do. No seems to have any answers for me.
  • oneduckstwooneduckstwo Member Posts: 34
    Hello everyone. I just bought a single owner used 5-speed 97 SC2 w/78000 mi. in CA for $2500 to replace a 94 Altima which seems to enjoy being in the shop every other month (not the greatest commuter car.) Unfortunately it needs: new serpentine belt, battery, valve cover gasket, and an engine mount. Basically I'm just hoping I got an ok deal as the Altima actually seems a bit more solidly built (especially the shifter which feels a bit like a stick in a bucket of marbles.) Just a bit nervous. Any thoughts? I realize this isn't really the greatest question to post...
  • 2saturnfamily2saturnfamily Member Posts: 1
    Tiny plastic retainer broke holding shift cable to gear selector on my 5 speed SC1. Part looks like maybe $.05, but Saturn wants $205.00 for a set of shift cables (they only come in pairs) that contain that retainer. Instead, I purchased a set of Toyota windshield wiper linkage bushings ($10.68 at Advance) and pressed one through cable and over shifter attachment point. The cable is held on very securely with no trouble shifting.
  • mammellimammelli Member Posts: 1
    My 95 SL2, with 96,000 plus miles on it has been trouble free up until recently with two minor problems (I think). The light sensor that indicates the car is hot goes on. Changed the sensor, so don't guess that's the problem. Checked the water in radiator and it is full. Engine does not reheat, although it does require the fan assistance to cool in idling traffic, as it always did. Also, when I shift into reverse, the engine revs before it slows, causing the car to jolt into reverse. If I shift into neutral first, then wait until the engine slows, I can go to reverse without problems.

    Anyone have any ideas?
  • deadintegradeadintegra Member Posts: 1
    yeah as this reply isn't to the timing belt your friend is having problems with it's indeed about the Acura Integra Electrical problem. I am having the EXACT same problems that you described in your post that i can't seem to E-mail you or reply to on the Acura Forum. I went through the exact same steps and met with the same issues/lack of spark/getting power to the Distributor housing etc... Were you able to get it running and if so PLEASE tell me how so i can do the same. I dont use this car often it's a secondary Vehicle but i'd like to know what you did to get yours fixed, Any Info would be greatly apriciated!
  • pitbullpitbull Member Posts: 20
    OK - First time in the Saturn forum - No time to review 1200-odd messages, so I started another thread that will hopefully help others.

    I find myself in dire financial straits and had to give back a beautiful (& FUN!) Subaru Forester XT.

    I am strongly considering buying a 1995 SW2 (5-spd) from a private party, and need some expert opinions & feedback before I make the final decision.
    The sellers are asking $1800-, but I have negotiated to a tentative $1400- due to a few minor problems, the worst of which is a cracked windshield and some interior trim/cosmetic things.

    It has 249,000 miles, and was last purchased by a mechanic (I'm told) as a gift to his parents-in-law.

    It has recently had a "full tuneup", a new clutch, a new battery, and wears nearly new tires.
    It drives quite nicely, brakes strong & firm (with a slight pulse in the pedal), steers & rides solid with decent suspension damping, and the clutch does feel like new (they say "about 100 miles" - seems accurate).
    I've noticed some sort of liquid adhesive/sealant around the valve cover gasket area, and the coolant is nearly black, and the brake fluid is dark.
    The oil is beautiful and looks & smells new.
    It started up excellent from dead cold (hadn't been started for several weeks) on a 45-degree day.
    I noticed no smoke whatsoever from the tailpipe, and in fact the exhaust smells perfect (not rich, no oil odor), although it does give a noticeable strumming/throbbing harmonic in the cabin at idle.
    From what I could see, everything on the undercarriage looks very good, but I could'nt really get a good look at the front/middle of the exhaust system.
    I'm told the A/C & Cruise work, although I didn't actually test those things (yet).
    There is no stereo whatsoever, and the driver's door speaker is nonexistant.
    There is no sunroof, and no ABS.

    For good measure, I decided to check CarFax ("1 free check"); Well the Free findings were just enough to show that there are 18 reports on this vehicle.

    I had noticed a couple dents/wrinkles at the very front of the hood, and it doesn't close snugly - a slight rattling when closed.
    So, I'm a little concerned that it may have had a fairly significant front end impact, although I checked the innner panels of the engine bay and the strut towers and found nothing at all.

    My questions:
    Could I get any & all experienced (similar vintage SW2 / S Series) feedback about this car from all of you?
    Any areas of concern?
    Does it sound like $1400- is a fair & appropriate price?
    My gut instinct and test drive tell me it's not a :lemon: , but I really have no experience with Saturns, so I'm turning to the experts.

    Does anyone have any clues as to what CarFax's 18 Reports could be?

    Would someone be able to run a complete CarFax (or similar VIN check) for me?
    My budget is very strained, and I could use a bit of help here.
    I'd be very grateful for the favor.
    The VIN is:
    1G8ZJ8275SZ297918

    Thanks in advance for all of your help! :confuse:
    ps - I'm set to buy it tomorrow, late morning.
  • oneduckstwooneduckstwo Member Posts: 34
    i think you're in the clear...
    5 owner car. possible mileage record screwup on paperwork but mileage should be correct.
    i have a 97 saturn sc-2 that i got w/ 78000 mi. for $2500 but had to pay another $500 in repairs, etc. I'm not sure what to tell you re: Saturns as this is my first but i guess it's ok. i must admit it does feel cheap...but i guess it was! hope it lasts like some of the ones people post about here. good luck!
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