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I know it's probably not related, but a few years back I had an econoline van that was rear-ended by a distracted driver on his cell phone, I didn't notice at the time, but my bolts that kept the drive shaft aligned had been knocked out of alignment, for some reason the van drove without any noticable problems for about 9000 miles. Then it died while my wife was driving it and AAA towed it back to our driveway.
You could start it up and it would run, but placing it into reverse or a drive gear stalled it every time, even though the van had surpassed the waranty, I took it to a Ford dealer just to verify the torque converter being bad, I even paid a local welder $50 to cut it open so I could see what made it fail, more than half the pressure plate springs were shattered and the spring "chunks" were acting like an abrasive slurry rubbing off the friction plates.
Since I don't know if you have an Auto trans, I'm just guessing a transmission problem and since I can't hear what sound it makes when it stalls, I can't determine what is going on at the time your engine stalls.
THANK YOU!
I changed out the T-stat today, and checked to see if the fan would come on during idle. The car never really got up to temp, so I turn on the AC while in the driveway and then all of a sudden the temp started to climb.
I plan to change out the fan motor and the AC relay switch to rule those out.
Could something else be wrong with the AC that would cause it to cut in and out and also contribute to the temp to rise too high?
Thanks
Christopher
For the first 5 years all I had to replace was the reverse light switch (twice) about $40 for both and I had to replace the muffler clamp $15. This past year the car cost me the most. Most of it was normal wear n tear items (ty rod ends, ball joints and front wheel bearings.) The only engine work I had done was the intake gasket. $27 part and $300 in labor. By far this car has been one of the best I've owned. My other 2 best was an 82 Ford Escort and a 94 Ford ranger. This Saturn has gotten me 43 mpg and I average 39mpg even at 109000. I haven't had to deal with the dealership except for buying the muffler clamp from them cuz the after market items didn't fit.
No complaints from me.
Do you know there is a manual override for the motor next to each headlight. You have to unplug the cable & there's something to twist until it's fully raised.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=richpin06a&view=videos
Next is boot check for that joint to see if it is leaking CV lube.
Next replace worn CV joint. "Costly"?
Thanks
thanks mike r. michigan :mad:
help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:
michael rossbach
metal model maker at saturn for 16 years, madison heights, mi
link title
Any ideas? or comments?
Greg
Going to the dealer for this, might be the best bet - despite higher cost, they're on the hook for the repair and have their brand's reputation to consider. Oh, yes....Get it done before Saturn goes bankrupt!!!
and see youtube or other video and see there a lot of saturn making more dans 200k mile and still running good
if yes, the service key may light on to tell a malfunction in ABS sensor
if not, take it to saturn dealer and make it scan
I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and it sounds like I am experiencing the same sounds you describe in your posting. Could you tell me what the problem ended up being and waht the fix was.
Thanks
Brian
Before doing major work suggest removing cam cover again and checking head bolts for proper torque in correct sequence (middle bolts first for instance).
As any engine gets older the headbolts should be retorqued to proper readings on torque wrench. Gaskets on some engines shrink with age like "old people".
Dave
-jeff
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY