Buick LeSabre

davco · July 2005

Seems the problem with these dash buttons only working when they want to is not a vacume problem, but is centered on the unit in the dash itself...
or directly behind it...

...I had disconnected a large round twist off connector that sits directly above the main abs brake unit, had forgot to take off the neg. battery cable, (don't ask) and the dash ABS light stays on and I don't think the ABS is activating... Any suggestions?

davco · July 2005

Buick has two types of dashboard heater controls. Mine is the "manual" type. Would the "automatic" type work in my car ? Ebay has one for $20...

tigercat21 · July 2005

Check for a blown fuse in main fuse box...abs has its own fuse.

imidazol97 · July 2005

Hope you've fixed your problem by now.

But if you haven't, the voltage of a battery should be 12.6 volts. That's 6.1 volts for each of the six cells in a Pb acid battery. You may have a problem battery or a badly calibrated meter.

carrielsy19 · July 2005

I finally did get my problem fixed! I am soooo happy but frustrated at the same time.
It appears that I was fortunate enough not to have only purchased 1 bad brand new battery but 2 bad brand new batteries. I kept testing my battery with my volt meter and everytime the car was turned off the battery died instantly!
This was the second battery that I had put in since around March of this year this battery was to replace the original I bought in March. So I took my car to a place that specializes in just batteries and he told me I had a couple of dead cells and marked them off so I could return my battery once again. I then bought a battery from him and he replaced the bolts because the place where I had the other battery put in well it appears that they badly stripped them! Its been since about June 23 and I have not had any problems at all I am still monitoring the voltage on my battery and it is staying charged! Hopefully you will figure out what your problem is. Every place I have been to has commented on the shape of my car and my mechanic said they have excellent engines and will go on forever I like you did not want to part with my car.
My problem was the same I would boost it and it would run for a day or so then it was getting to the point where every time I turned off my car I would need to boost it!! I

Good luck with your car! Hopefully you will get it going before spending alot of money on things that you do not need to fix like I did.

scapagliata · July 2005

My dad owns a 1998 Buick Lesabre with 58,000 miles on it. Last nite as they were leaving my home, they got into the car and it wouldn't start. Tried jump starting. No luck. The key turns, all the lights, bells and whistles indicate all is normal.. however, when the ignition is completely engaged, not a sound. He removed the starter and took it to the dealer and it checked out fine. Any suggestions???

imidazol97 · July 2005

I assume the Security light didn't stay on after the key is turned to "on." IF it did that means the resistor chip isn't being read in the key. You get all the lights but when you turn the key, nothing happens inthe way of cranking.

It's happened to me a couple of times with a dirty resistor contact. Scrape it, pencil eraser is good for cleaning. But you have towait 3 or 4 minutes until the computer for the key resets; once you turn the key 3 times with a bad read from the resistor it turns off the ability to start the car for 3 minutes.

There is a possibility it's the ignition switch not connecting to the start mode wire. That's on top of the steering column just above the brake pedal. Then there's the small computer that reads the key chip; I think it's buried inside the instrument panel behind the speedometer so that it's not easily bypassed. I'd start with the easiest first. Connections at starter, bad starter, etc.

scapagliata · July 2005

Tried the eraser on the key. No luck. The security light continually flashes with the key on. I think he's going to have it towed to a dealer tomorrow. We also tried the extra key by the way, and it didn't work either. Thanks for your input. I'll let u know the outcome.

doedoe · July 2005

1992 LeSabre has loud knocking sound when idling. When I excelerate and drive over 25 mph the sound goes away. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? Thanks for you input.

x90071 · July 2005

The panel that covers the windows and mirror knobs is shedding its black paint
where can i get a new panel?

ilnole · July 2005

well group hers is my problem i have a 1997 buick lesabre i added a cd player and a single subwoofer and my abs light has been coming on often the abs light comes on the cd player goes off then starts right back up, then tonight on my way home the abs light cut on and i continued driving like normal then the spedometer went nuts then the battery voltage light came on, i drove a lil bit more and all the lights went out and the car was fine anybody know what the hell is going on?

davco · July 2005

I wish I knew... These LeSabre's seem to have poor wiring designs. And minds of their own...

swimberley · July 2005

I got locked out of my car so a friend used a slim jim to try to open the doors. It never worked. Now the key will not unlock the front doors, the lock buttons on the inside will not unlock them either. I cannot lock the car and I have to either crawl through the window or get in from the back seat! Does anyone know what could have happened? Someone suggested that the anti theft system may have something to do with it and that I need to have the car's computer reset.
Please help.

dave65 · July 2005

i think my abs light in my 94 lesabre is burnt out cause it doesn't come on when i turn the key. do i just pull out the speedo to get at it to replace?

dave65 · July 2005

i think the abs light on my 94 lesabre is burnt out cause it doesn't come on when i turn the key. what is the fastest way to change the bulb? just pull out speedo?

mlm4 · July 2005

Using the slim jim may have bent or jammed the rod that connects the lock to the manual switch on the door panel. Best bet is to pull off the interior door panel and take a look.

swimberley · July 2005

How do I get the door panel off with the door shut? I can only find two screws - one of them takes off the panel where the handle is and the other only removes the panel over the arm rest - there is nothing behind it.

ryanfiala81 · August 2005

For the past few months, I've noticed an increasingly strong smell of coolant coming from the hood of my '97 LeSabre, and in cold, damp weather an occasional bit of steam coming out of the grille. My reservoir was recently empy; I refilled it a few weeks ago and it's almost all the way down again. There don't appear to be any leaks, nor do I believe that I'm burning any coolant during combustion (as the smell and occasional steam are coming from under the hood. The heater core does not appear to be the issue, as the smell hasn't reached the cabin except on rare occasions. Has anyone experienced similar problems on their Buicks? Are there any frequent failures in the cooling system that I should be aware of? Thanks.

imidazol97 · August 2005

You don't mention the mileage on the car. It could be coming from a leaking hose, leaking radiator, water pump, or the seals around the air intake plastic upper manifold, or around the lower metal manifold seals. You need to open the hood when the car has built up heat and pressure and is showing moisture coming up and do a quick check to see if you can find any color trails or liquid coolant somewhere.

Do you see any drips on the ground when you park the car after it's hot? That might show you it's under the radiator or the water pump area.

imidazol97 · August 2005

If you believe the problem is electrical, it may be the ground connection at the left side kick panel beside the parking brake. I never found it, but it gets moisture and age and can cause strange problems with things like air and power door locks etc.
My 1993 had that. I never followed up to clean and tighten the grounds because I traded the car before it started doing it enough. It would go to air conditioning defrost default and the power door locks wouldn't work for a few minutes.

There also is a ground under the carpet between the door sill and the driver's seat. It would be about where your fingers hang straight down while you're sitting in the seat. You can feel the plastic cover above the connects that may also be related to some dash operations.

gene123 · August 2005

Does traction control on front wheel drive vehicles give as much help on snow or wet surfaces as limited slip differentials on rear wheel drive cars?

imidazol97 · August 2005

Yes. It's better. The slipping wheel is slowed by the brake. Your other wheel is pulling and it controls the direction. With limited slip rear differential the rears both were locked and the slippage tended to make the rear go whichever way it wanted to go sometimes at the detriment of direction you wanted to go. I quickly learned long ago never to let up or accelerate during a curve on a snowy or icy road. The rear wheel both slip some and bam you're gone sideways in the rear.

gene123 · August 2005

Hey, thanks a lot. I was torn between the Buick Le Sabre, which has front wheel drive, as do most cars now, and the Cadillac STS with RWD with the limited-slip diferential option. I have always driven rear wheel drive cars, and didn't like the idea of FWD. But, with traction control, I guess FWD will be OK. My main objection to FWD was the anticipated need to replace the CV joint covers frequently to prevent undue wear and tear if water and debris got to the joint, at quite an expense. Or, I can hope my 1976 Le Sabre lasts until Buick makes a RWD. Bummer.

gene123 · August 2005

imidazol97 · August 2005

I have had Buicks since 1981 model with CV joints and have never had a cover split or leak out the oil. I've never had a CV failure. 1989 Century had 150K, 93 LeSabre had 150K, 98 LeSabre has 130 K. I'm in Ohio; hot in summer, cold in winter. Never split.

You probably won't either unless you go off-roading or have lots of road debris where you drive.

gene123 · August 2005

Thanks for the info on the CV joint covers. That eliminates the big concern I had after seeing the prices to replace the covers posted at car repair shops. I guess I was getting gray hairs for nothing. I really want to get a new Le Sabre, because I like the roominess and the gear shift on the steering column. Guess I can go shopping now. I really appreciate your feedback.

bozie · October 2005

Have a 2000 Buick Lasabre with passinger side rear window off track. Need step by step info. guiding me through removing the panel to get to the problem. Dealer want's $250.00 to make repair. The motor runs, sounds good. Thanks , Bozie

mlm4 · October 2005

This is a common problem. I had to replace the window regulator on my Bonneville, same as LeSabre. I don't think your window is "off track". The motor drives a cable that is attached to the regulator with a plastic clip which is prone to breaking. Even though it is just a simple clip it is not serviceable, the entire regulator must be replaced and unfortunately that assembly also includes the motor.
I bought a new regulator and replaced it myself. The door panel is attached with a series of fasteners around the edge and a couple in the middle. Start by prying the panel out from the bottom and work around the edges. When the clips are free lift the panel up to free the top edge from the door. On the right rear door there should only be one electrical connector (for the power window switch) to disconnect. Under the panel is a moisture barrier glued to the door which needs to be carefully peeled away (don't tear it). There are a couple of clamps that attach the glass to the regulator. Close the window and tape it to the frame so when the clamps are loosened the window stays in place. Unclamp the glass and remove the regulator mounting bolts. The regulator is hard to get out through the opening but it I found the new regulator has the motor attached at a different angle which makes it easier to get in than the old one was to get out. See my message on the Bonneville problems board #1242 mlm4, "Pontiac Bonneville Owners: Problems & Solutions" #1242, 24 Dec 2003 6:39 pm

bozie · November 2005

RE:mlm4 Bozie thanks for advice rear window La Sabre. I put in 3 full days of labor with help from a friend and my wife searching for replacement at salvage yards and no luck there because of too new of model. As you said the cable had pulled through the plastic fastener on the end that doesn't require a spring. The cable had some damage on the take up reel because of being run some while off groove. Not finding a replacement at salvage yard's I proceeded to price GM dealer's (Look Out) $305:00 to $340:00 not including tax and various they do it prices in between, Glass replacement shop's etc. Well anyway as my profile say's I think, I like a challenge and boy did I have one here. The idea was to save the cost of a new one at approxmently $350.00 or more. So here's what I done. Where the cable had broken through the plastic, I placed a small piece of metal in the slot where the cable usually rested and then proceeded to stretch the cable with my wife's help, back in on top of metal.(Half a day's work) That completed the repair. But by golly it worked. The rest of the story is my mistakes. Like placing it back in the door cavity with the motor on wrong side. Not plugging motor up to electric, and making sure the glass was in the channel guide. So I figure I put in $800.00 worth of labor in 3-day's to save $350.00 or more. Thank's again, MLM4, I appreciate your help, Bozie

ryanfiala81 · November 2005

My LeSabre has been making a grinding noise that we've effectively traced to the A/C compressor pulley by removing the serpentine belt. It was obvious even before, as metal shavings were readily visible on the pulley. As I have a friend who knows his bearings and has access to any bearing I may need, my question is as follows:

Does anyone know if the pulley - and possibly the clutch if necessary - can be removed from the A/C compressor pulley, so that I would not have to replace the whole $250 compressor?

Auto parts stores have already told me that they only carry the complete compressor; however, the pulley itself appears to be in good condition - it's just this bearing that is going bad. If anyone has ANY ideas for saving me a lot of money, or can refer me to the proper forum for posting this problem, I'd would very much appreciate it.

raikins · November 2005

:confuse: Just joined the forum, actually on behalf of my parents who just bought a 2005 LeSabre with very low miles. I'm looking for any hints/warnings about known problems & complaints. I've read much of the posts on previous years' issues. Have they been fixed for 2005?

Thanks!
-Ron

kay9 · November 2005

Hello,

Some cowardly kids smashed my rear side and back windows. It's going to cost me at least $250 to fix them so I'm trying to do stuff by myself. I started with the rear side window yesterday in bone-chill weather; managed to completely remove the door panel from the steel frame. However inserting the glass from the top is becoming a nightmare; what else do I need to remove? I'm thinking I might have to remove the pillar btn the side frames. Any assistance will be appreciated. Thanks

kay9 · November 2005

To replace the back side glass, the B pillar and quarter glass have to be removed.

njsurfboat · December 2005

I noticed the 04 lesabre on the short list of autos to avoid buying used in the new CR buying guide. Any ideas why? The reliability chart looked routine.

kauffenberg · December 2005

Headlamps and parking lights won't turn off, either by timing device after exiting car or with manual switches on dash. Mechanic says its the twilight sentinel, but why don't the manual switches work?

We take out fuses to keep the battery from discharging, but this is going to get old.....

Any ideas?

daryll44 · December 2005

Just curious...is the 2005 LeSabre (the end) built on the same platform/chassis as the "original FWD" LeSabre in mode year 1986? I realize they've at least made updates over the years, but I am wondering if it's still essentially the same car underneath.

buickgirl · December 2005

I have now had everyone of my windows to quit working correctly. I got the motor/regulator replaced on the front passenger side for a cost of $350. I had the rear windows to get out of track, so we rigged them where they will not go down. Now my driver's window is giving me trouble. What is wrong? Have others had the same problem? It seems that a recall should be in order. I hardly had ever put down my back windows, and do not have kids etc. to abuse them.:mad:

wingnut8 · December 2005

We have a 2000 and I had to replace the drivers side cost about $75 at advance auto. It was harder to take the door panel off then to change the motor.

imidazol97 · December 2005

You are saying that your motor went out and you were able to replace it? I thought the regulator and motor were one piece.

wingnut8 · December 2005

Yes it's all one piece $54.99 at advance auto.

jh1977 · December 2005

2005 is the last model year of the Buick LeSabre. I currently owned a LeSabre and its a very nice automobile. Its a shame GM did not invest more into the LeSabre to keep it competitive with the new Avalon, 300 and Charger full size sedans. The LeSabre was the best-selling full size car for many years and was manufactured for more than 45 years by Buick. Good-Bye LeSabre.

daryll44 · December 2005

I guess you could argue that GM did exactly what you said...but calls it "LUCERNE".

imidazol97 · December 2005

The new Avalon is not a car aimed at the LeSabre market IMO. It was meant to hit people more interested in believing they had a high performance car speedwise.

The 300 is not competition in our area. Buyers of 300 from Chrysler usually were already Chrysler buyers and a few others were attracted to the "odd" design.

The Charger looks smaller than the full-size LeSabre was/is.

I just see the LeSabre as quality, dependable transportation for 6 adults with a durable, strong motor that holds more power in the LeSabre application than most realized until they drove one for a while. LeSabre was not flashy--it had become the Camry and Accord while they bloated to something different.

I believe a lot of LeSabre buyers will have LaCrosses and low priced Lucernes. The lower-priced Lucerne has run-of-the-mill struts and suspensions and tuning in the body. These saved cost along with the 3800 motor. This will appeal to the LeSabre buyers. The V8 Lucerne will attract some of the Lexus - Avalon buyers who don't want the Avalon problems.

A V6 in Lucerne would have given too much similarity to the motors and cars. They would have had to ditch the 3800 which would probably cost a lot of UAW paid for no work time and they probably wouldn't be able to phase down the production at the 3800 build location without advance notice and agreement from the UAW.

I haven't driven a Lucerne. The dealer had 3 in but two were sold and were just being shown in the showroom since they hadn't been picked up by the owners. I suspect the 3800 will be more than adequate for many drivers' wants; me included. Probably most are previous LeSabre owners who don't drive aggressively.

Driver's I've seen in Lucernes look a lot younger than they used to!!! A black CSX (CXS) with chrome wheels and the Northstar makes a good-looking car.

jh1977 · December 2005

Thank you for responding to my message. I just want the Base Lucerne to have at least the same engine power as the LeSabre, its predecessor. If GM can put a 3.9 Liter engine in the Impala with 240 HP they certainly can put the same or similar engine in the Base Lucerne. I thought Buick was more upscale than Chey, with more powerful engines and luxury especially in their large sedans, whether base or more luxury models. For us old timers, remember back in the 1970s, 1980s when Buick had the Lesabre and the Electra 225 (Duce and a Quarter). Those were the good old days for Buick.

daryll44 · December 2005

I learned how to drive on a 1976 "last of the really big" Duce-and-a-Quarter (Electra 225)s. Dad bought it in the fall of '75. I remember when they came out with the 1977 Duce (as well as Deville and '98) and was shocked to see this new car next to a '77 Regal and realize that the new car was the "flagship" Duce. The "mid-sized" Regal/Cutlass was the same size! In the end the 1977-1984 Duce/98/Deville was a great car, but the 1985 kiddie-car FWD big GM drives were the beginning of the end for GM. LeSabre came in 1986 and I guess the final 2005 LeSabre was a pretty decent vehicle, but I miss the old RWD ones "last gasp" Roadmaster.

dandbhood · December 2005

I had a similar problem. The cables on the drivers side broke and had to be replaced. Then the cable on one of the back windows broke and had to be replaced, then the other back window cable started making a racket and had to be replaced. I had the dealer check on the remaining window cable and they said it was alright. All this happened after the warranty ran out but I had complained to Buick Motor Div. of GM and the dealership picked up the cost. You might want to get in touch with Buick and see if they can't help you out with this problem that shouldn't be occurring in the first place. Good luck.

bap1 · January 2006

Have 2000 Lesabre. Turned key this morning and there was a delay before car started. Car started rough but is idling fine. During the delay I heard vacuum noise coming from behind dash display. Vacuum noise also occurs when car is turned off. No service lights are on and DIC indicates everything is normal. Explanation?

hagrawal · January 2006

I need to replace the head lights in my 2003 Le Sabre Limited with brighter lights. Any halogen or HID or other suggestions will be appreciated.

odie6l · February 2006

I have an 05 Lesabre Custom, love everything about the car, except the wind noise coming from both from door/window areas. I bought some foam weather stripping to isolate the problem. To me it seems the window noise is coming from the window area, where it rests against the felt/rubber at the top of window. Someone told me there is a way the dealer can tighten/tilt the windows inward, so they rest tighter against the seal? Does anyone know if a window can be adjusted more inward or made to fit tighter? Or better yet, any other suggestions? Thanks!

mlm4 · February 2006

I know from my experience of replacing two power window regulators in my Bonneville (which I believe uses the same window parts) that the glass can be adjusted forwards and backwards (I don't think inward, though). The glass rests in two rubber clamps that are part of the regulator. It is possible that the back of the glass is too high (or the front too low) so it is not sealing well when closed. You should be able to inspect from the outside to see if there is a gap between the glass and the weatherstrip.

To adjust it the inner door panel needs to be removed, then the water seal needs to be carefully peeled away so you can get at the two access holes for the clamps. With the window closed, loosen the two clamp screws using a socket wrench. Lower the window carefully just a bit. If the window is stuck in the weather seal you might need to push it down to break it loose. Then with the engine running for maximum electrical power, fully raise the window to seat it. Tighten the clamps to 9 N-m.

If that's not the case and the glass needs to come inward I would check to make sure the three window regulator bolts are fully tightened. If the top one is loose maybe the whole assembly could tip the glass outward. Also try lowering the window a little and trying to rock the glass in and out to see if there is any play. Good luck

Buick LeSabre

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