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Buick LeSabre

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Comments

  • mariannesammariannesam Member Posts: 21
    Should be under warranty as it sounds like an emissions issue and these usually have longer warranties (check your owners manual or call a GM dealer). If its under warranty, take it to a Buick dealer (if not close, any GM one should handle it).

    Also, once a problem is fixed and not cleared by an external "reader" system, it may take serveral on/off driving cycles for the code/light to clear.
  • mariannesammariannesam Member Posts: 21
    Drive and road test on the highway the Park and see how you like it. If you like it, offer $4500 or something lower especially if you find issues. Let them now about the LeSabre. I would go with the Park since its newer if its in good shape.
  • mariannesammariannesam Member Posts: 21
    When its blowing hot, you should see that the AC compressor is not turning.

    I think its the high pressure AC sensor.

    When its not working, try taping/hitting the switch (ask some mechanic to show you where it is, should be on the AC high pressure line near the compressor). If the compressor comes on, then it the switch.

    The switch is about $70 from dealer and should not be that hard to install. Should not have to drain the freon to change switch.

    This switch is a problem with many GM cars.
  • vincem1948vincem1948 Member Posts: 3
    I've got the extended warranty, but if it is not covered under the warranty, I'd be looking at an expensive diagnostic testing. Received a tip on another forum and it seems to have fixed the problem. I was told to check the filler neck lip where it touches the gas cap and clean any build-up of rust or dirt off it. Found quite a build-up along the upper portion of the filler neck. Took a green scrubbing pad and with a little elbow grease and some 409, I was able to clean it back down to the metal. Put the gas cap back on and started the car and let it run. After about 5 minutes the error code went away and the Service Engine Soon light went off and has not returned. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. (It seems that Firestone uses a different kind of cap that expands out inside the neck, by-passing the filler neck lip.)
  • icnfixxit1icnfixxit1 Member Posts: 1
    my 1998 lesabre parked in garage key off suddenly horn blowing this is fifth time this happened also happened when parked out side obviously neighbors not happy any one know how or why this is ana how to correct it ? thanks foe any help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Is it blowing in the on-off pattern of the security alarm or is it continuous?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ubisumubisum Member Posts: 2
    My 1990 Buick LeSabre, which I have cared for very carefully for lo these many years and which has consequently been running well, barring the occasional but minor glitch, has not been feeling well of late. About 15 to 20 minutes after I start it up from the cold-engine state, it stalls, sometimes hesitating before doing so, or sometimes just cutting out completely. Then, sometimes but not always, after I restart it, it will re-stall within 5 to 10 minutes. After that, it runs fine, at least until the next morning when I again start it up from its cold-engine state. Some days, however, it doesn’t stall at all. The EGR valve was replaced and the problem persisted. The air-intake system was fixed, at least according to my mechanic, and the problem persists. I would like to hear from a Columbo of automotive mechanics, someone who can help me avoid having to blow more money on ineffective solutions, please.
  • scoskescoske Member Posts: 2
    If the horn stays on continuously, then it is likely an issue with the switch that is in the steering wheel above the airbag unit. This is a major design blunder on GM's part. The switch was VERY poorly designed and expands upon getting hot. Usually this happens when the car is sitting out in the sun, but can happen anytime.

    You have a couple of options you can try:
    1) You can take the air bag unit off of the steering when and disable one of the horn switches. Test to see which one is causing the problems with a volt meter. To take the air bag unit off you'll have to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then pull the airbag fuses out of the fuse panel below the driver's side dash. Pull the kick panel off of the drivers side and disconnect the yellow connector (to completely disable the airbag). Use a torx bix to loosen the screws on the back side of the steering wheel. This will release the air bag unit. Once you pull this off, you'll see another yellow connector and and a black connector for you radio controls. There will also be a spring type clip that goes into one of the holes and a longer plastic tube with a spring attached that goes into another hole. If you put a volt meter on these two connections you can test the switches. Once you've found the switch that has a problem just leave that one disconnected. There are two small black plugs. Usually, one of the switches is more sensitive than the other and you can just disable that switch. The horn will only work when you push the steering wheel in the specific location of the switch you did not disable.
    2) You can buy a new airbag unit which will obviously have a new horn switch that should not have problems for the next 5 years.
  • scoskescoske Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like it may be a problem I had a while back with my 88 Chevy van. There is a coil that comes off the crank shaft that sends a signal to the CPU and tells it to send spark when the crank shaft is spinning. The coil on my van went bad, but it was ok while the engine was cold. After 10-20 minutes when the engine was hot the engine would just quit. It would only restart after sitting for an hour or so. I replaced the coil and it ran perfectly again. Check to see if this is a possibility. If your 90 lesabre has a similar coil, then this could definitely be your problem.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    It needs some diagnosis to try to eliminate some of the potential causes.
    Fuel pressure from the 18 year old fuel pump?
    Connection problem at the electronic spark control under the coils?
    Other connection?
    Crankshaft position sensor?
    Camshaft position sensor? (I think this one gives code)

    This car really needs to be hooked up to a Tech II or better device while being started and running to see record what happens when it acts up. It sounds like it's doing it regularly and somewhat predictably.

    Are there any codes when read by a code reader at Advance Auto or Autozone.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ubisumubisum Member Posts: 2
    Keith aka imidazol97 : Thank you for your most relevant response. Every bit of knowledge that allays my ignorance on this matter is most appreciated. The way I figure it, this is a problem that my mechanic, who’s been in the business for about twenty years, has never encountered before. Apparently the combination of a truly knowledgeable mechanic and a really honest one is impossible to find, at least for me. All too many of them tend to see a customer’s automotive ignorance as an opportunity for profit.
  • henderson5henderson5 Member Posts: 1
    The alarm horn and lights will go off on my 1998 randomly and frequently even if the car is not locked. I have tried various methods of locking the car with and without remote, manual and nothing seems to work. Is there any way to deactivate the system? I can't find a seperate fuze. Sometimes the security light on the dash board will be on but most of the times it is not on.
    Thanks for any help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    I suspect the fuel pump more after hearing some callers on repair shows on radio stations through the last months. A Cincy mechanic/owner used to explain how he would hook up a set of pressure gauges for the fuel line and duct tape it to the windshield. Then he would drive the car and watch the pressures if the car acted up. He would use the car for errands for the shop/body shop that he owned and get in some realistic drive time in the car.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • niceride3niceride3 Member Posts: 17
    Might be a stabilizer problem. I had a similar problem with a 97 Regal. Probably a standard platform that these cars are built on.
    Fred
  • xtramilextramile Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Buick Le Sabre Limited's air condition blows cool air but not cold air; it has been recharged but the problem still persist. Does anyone know how ti fix this problem?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Which air system? Manual or automatic air with digital readout. If the latter, is the passenger air also not cold enough?

    Where are you? Is it super humid where you are? Very hot when this is occuring?

    Is this true after driving at 40+ mph on open road for 5-10 minutes?

    You might have an actuator not moving a vane inside the HVAC box all the way to cool and some air is going through the heater core?

    BUT the most likely would be that the freon isn't correctly charged. Was it done by a professional with gauges on the high and low sides of the system? Or was it charged by someone like me with a can of R134a from Walmart with a do-it-yourself gauge on the low side only and brought up to pressure with that backyard system?

    However there have been more than minimum reports of actuators not working correctly. Most common is they quit and dont' move anything at all.

    Curious, does it go full hot when you turn the temp to full hot? Try putting it on 90 for a while if you have the automatic system and then bringing it down to the cool settings at 60.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • xtramilextramile Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response!

    I have the automatic air with digital readout. The passenger side is also not cold enough.

    I'm in Las Vegas,NV where it is very hot and dry.

    I had it recharded at PepBoys.

    I set the temp to 90 and it's work fine; it gets really hot but from 75 to 60 air blows the same. What do u think?
  • tkcoloradotkcolorado Member Posts: 39
    I have a 2000 LeSabre Limited with about 68,000 miles on it. I bought the car about a year and half ago. Our mechanic checked it out from top to bottom and said it would be a great car.

    Now i'm having some trouble with it and not sure what it is. Driving down the highway today at 65mph. Drives fine, until we start to slow down. I notice its missing. Then we get to a stop its VERY noticeable.

    As I push the accelerator it really starts to miss/sputter. I turn the car off in the parking lot and we let it sit for a good 2 hours. Come back and it starts fine, but immediately starts to sputter/miss again. All the way back home on the highway it lacks power and starts to sputter/miss.

    Now when I turn it on it really doesn't want to run smooth. I did notice the other day that the fuel gauge was wrong (when it gets below 1/2 a tank it just goes all over, registers as full, etc.)

    Someone suggested it was a fuel pump. If it is, how is that replaced on this car? This person said they couldn't remember if it was a tank removal job or if this years car had an access panel through the trunk.

    Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    #1. The fuel pump is accessible through a port in the floor of the trunk. The pump can be replaced without replacing the sender (for the fuel gauge).

    #2. The fuel gauge contacts that move when the float goes up and down probably are worn. There is a replacement repair for the mechanically inclined on the internet using some repair parts from a past gauge assembly for another car but related fuel sender. The parts wear.

    #3. I has low mileage for a fuel pump problem unless it was driven a lot with fuel level below a quarter tank so it didn't cool the pump.

    #4. Most likely it's a clogged EGR valve. It can be removed for cleaning fairly easily.

    #5. You can disconnect the EGR valve connector and drive it with that connected to see if it quits doing it. That is temporary only.

    #6. You can try tapping the EGR valve with a screwdriver handle to see if vibration helps the pintel seat closed when it should be such as at idle.

    You might be due for spark plugs (use AC plugs per the book, don't buy the alternates) and new wires (use OEM AC or Belden brands, e.g.). You might have a wire not up to par after 8 years.

    But I really feel you have an EGR that's got scudda crud in it. I would doubt you need a new one or you'd have a check engine light on.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tkcoloradotkcolorado Member Posts: 39
    Thanks for the detailed response. It actually ended up being an ignition coil. So the dealership quoted me a price of $325 to fix the problem. They also suggested that I replace the plugs and wires at the same time, which would bring the grand total up to $450. Somehow after talking with him for a while, he said the car really would run ok with just the $325 fix.

    I'm really confused because I have no CLUE what all these parts are and the respective costs associated with it. Should I have replaced everything?

    P.S. I do need to replace the guage issue at some point, so that information you posted is handy.
  • dave1081dave1081 Member Posts: 9
    Love my well preserved '92 LeSabre however the horn has not worked since I bought it last December. All fuses are fine, and a friend with a meter revealed there is no current where the wires plug into the horn itself. Is there a relay somewhere in-between I could check?? Taking apart the steering wheel should be a last resort. Also, the horn buttons on the wheel are kinda' popped out (not flush with surface of wheel), though they feel like they would still work. I've heard it's not uncommon for Buick horn buttons to do that.

    Very uncomfortable driving without a horn in rush hour traffic. Doesn't anyone (besides me) actually turn their head to check the blind spot anymore?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    From a 95, the relays in the relay center on the firewall are, AC compressor, HORNS from left. The cover is held on by two or three twist clips. Under it are large fuses and relays. There may be a label inside the cover when you take it off that gives the positions and circuit for each.

    So Horns is #2. The relays have a flat spring prong that you raise using a steak knife, and then the relay will slide out toward you. The prong snaps over a hook when you push the relay back in.

    The relays there are several of the same part number. So you can switch the AC compressor and horn relay to see if that makes yours work.

    Good luck. And let me know what you end up finding!

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gds52383gds52383 Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 98 Lesabre with 120k on it. Recently the check engine light came on and started flashing. I took it to advance auto where it was tested and it came back misfire on cylinder 4. I decided to get a new set of spark plugs and change them. I found out it had the original plugs in it. It runs alot better and the check engine light has went off, however, it still hesitates on acceleration and sometimes jerks around 55 mph. I don't think that the problem has been completley solved although it runs alot better. The wires look fine. Could it be the high voltage distributor caps? Any ideas on what I should check? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    ~Greg
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    I hope the plugs are AC Delco plugs. Some have had trouble with substitute plugs. I believe the number is 41-101.

    But you must replace the wires also. They probably wore out before the plugs. Replace with AC or Belden OEM quality wires--NAPA has AAA discount if you choose Beldne, e.g.

    Most likely the wires' resistances are high because the carbon layer has deteriorated with age and use. Putting new plugs in helped but the system is still marginal. Running plugs and wires long also is said to deteriorate the coils. But change the wires first.

    The coils are best checked by comparing the resistances of the high voltage side where the wires plug in. To compare the primary side, you take each coil off, insert something to make contact internally to measure the resistance. Then clean and coat the prongs that the coil sits down onto. Coat with dielectric grease. BTW, put dielectric grease on the inside of the new wires when putting them onto the spark plugs; it makes them easier to remove.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cherrybombcherrybomb Member Posts: 2
    Hi - I'm scratching my head on this one so any insight is appreciated! I have a 94 LeSabre with just 44k miles. The drivers side rear door will lock using both the power door locks and the remote keyless entry, however it won't UNLOCK this door using either of them. The other 3 doors work fine. The PDL motor obviously works since it is locking the door, but what can cause it not unlock it only? Thanks!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    You're going to need to remove the door panel to be able to see what the motor is doing. You also will be able to check voltages and see if it's getting power on the unlock cycle.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cherrybombcherrybomb Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'll give it a try.
  • malexbumalexbu Member Posts: 169
    I am thinking about purchasing a "backup car". A used LeSabre would
    be good, if it turned out to be a reasonably low-maintenance vehicle.

    I previously had its relative, 1999 Pontiac Bonneville, which I bought
    new and traded in, at the 67K miles, for a new Chevy Malibu in 2005 --
    the change I've been extremely happy about.

    And I wouldn't buy another Bonneville, no, thank you.

    I've researched multiple user reviews for LeSabre, and have mixed
    feelings, but am thinking about exploring it further.

    I'd like to hear any feedback on this, but, specifically, I wonder
    what is the highest mileage on a used LeSabre, which makes sense to
    consider. E.g. I see a new listing for a 2002 LeSabre Limited with
    97.5K miles -- how silly would it be to buy that car, with that
    mileage? What maintenance is expected to be performed at 100K? How
    much money I should expect to invest in the car over the next 50K
    miles?

    Thank you for any input.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >What maintenance is expected to be performed at 100K? How
    much money I should expect to invest in the car over the next 50K

    If the owner did good maintenance on it, it's had the coolant changed a couple of times, it's had at least one trans drain and filter replacement, it's had plugs and wires replaced with Delco Plugs and OEM type wires, and news brakes all around. I'd say you're lookiing at less cost than for a high line Accord or Camry.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • malexbumalexbu Member Posts: 169
    Thank you -- this is useful!

    I've noticed many messages from you with good technical information,
    so your advice is much appreciated.

    Let me put it differently now: if I take your list and make sure that
    everything you listed have been done (from the information I have,
    this car has been very well cared for) -- should I be afraid of 98K
    miles? Is it much worse than, say, 50K?

    From my experience with Bonneville, I want to think that 60K or 100K
    don't make much difference -- most bad things happened to me before
    50K; and nasty annoyances like broken external door handles ($300),
    broken trunk spring ($200), water leak through the heater ($500),
    broken sun roof (left it with that), engine shutoff on the road, don't
    appear to be directly related to the mileage, but what do you think
    about this? Would you remove a car with this kind of mileage from
    your consideration, or it wouldn't bother you much?

    Thanks again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >Would you remove a car with this kind of mileage from
    your consideration, or it wouldn't bother you much?

    Nope. A neighbor up the road has bought and sold used 3800s equipped vehicles with 200K + on them running well and promising for an economical car. He does low price range cars as a hobby buying and selling; his father has always been in the used car business.

    The only pattern problem on the car you mention is due to neglect, in my opinion, by not changing antifreeze every two years. If it still has DexCool in it and the reservoir tank looks clear without globs of goop from someone adding green stuff antifreeze, I'm happy. The transmission fluid I like to see changed often. You're hinting that car has had that done in some way.

    Your car is past the 2000 models that seemed to have failures in the clip in the regulator (track) for the power windows. The cable that lifts the windows pulls out of the plastic carrier. Replaceable if you can take off the door panel yourself and send the regulator to someone on Ebay or the internet for repair and quick return for around $50-$90.

    I'd feel better about the car you're looking at than a Honda with an automatic transmission or air conditioning problems. Things will go wrong with all cars is my motto. Regular oil, trans fluid, and coolant changes are what your leSabre needed. Sounds like it has gotten that.

    You're not going to find many cars delivering 31-33 mpg in summer on interstate with AC on at 65-70 mph with 3 adults and loads of baggage; it also can carry 6 easily. It gives 22-24 around home driving in suburban township type driving here. I couldn't justify trading off my 168K 98 leSabre for a higher gas mileage car til recently. Kept the leSabre but added a Cobalt for the high schooler to drive.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • malexbumalexbu Member Posts: 169
    That's reassuring and informative -- thanks again!
  • malexbumalexbu Member Posts: 169
    Took a look at that LeSabre today -- the description did not match the
    vehicle and I backed off.

    Another one -- 2002 Custom, 83K miles:

    * Rear suspension redone a month ago.

    * The sunroof won't open -- needs a new solenoid.

    I don't care about opening a sunroof, but am afraid of water leaks if
    the roof is not properly closed.

    Any idea about how difficult it is to fix that? More important: a
    recently redone rear suspension -- is it a good or bad sign?

    Thanks!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >rear suspension

    Depends on what they mean by redone. New shocks? All lesabre may have had air leveling struts on the rear. If they put on Monroe replacements it may ride a little harder in rear than before. If they put on GM shocks, it should be the same or similar.

    The rear suspension might be a link that rusted through. A few people have reported those. It's a link that holds the geometry solid. I don't think it's the toe-in adjusting link. If it's in a corrosive area with lots of salt that might have happened. Look under the rear for new parts to see what was replaced. If it was replaced it's good to go.

    >sunroof

    Sounds like a control solenoid somewhere that the switch operates. I'd have to look that up in my 2003 Helm manual. I'll post what I find. Sunroofs are like boats: problem pits--my personal opinion. The solenoid doesn't bother me. But lots of Bonneville owners have reported broken off drains for the sunroof--it has 4. So the water leaks inside the car. Typical is the front hose by driver's left foot which is supposed to drain below the car and breaks inside the car.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • malexbumalexbu Member Posts: 169
    > Sunroofs are like boats: problem pits--my personal opinion.

    Couldn't agree more!... I swore off from buying a car with a sun roof
    after the one in my 1999 Bonneville stopped stopping in the "close"
    position....

    > But lots of Bonneville owners have reported broken off drains for
    > the sunroof--it has 4. So the water leaks inside the car.

    The drain paths may be blamed unfairly: as I learned painfully with my
    car, the pre-2000 Bonnevilles have an insanely installed heater --
    when the seal around it loosens, the water goes from the windshield
    and engine compartment right into the cabin, collecting under the
    carpet.

    It's very hard to find the leak -- I spent hours pouring my car from a
    garden hose, and hard to fix it. It's probably impossible to fix it
    reliably.

    > Typical is the front hose by driver's left foot which is supposed to
    > drain below the car and breaks inside the car.

    Precisely where the water was in my car :-)
  • mariannesammariannesam Member Posts: 21
    Having a problem with automatic air with digital readout system. The fan does not come on most of the time until 5 to 20 minutes later. Not sure if controller problem, fan motor failing, or connection/cable. When it does blow, it seems to sputter sometimes - when its set to hi speed, it sounds like it slows down for a second sometimes.

    Any ideas on usually why a very long delay with the fan coming on?

    If fan, how do I get to it or is it easy?

    If control module, how do I pull it out?

    Thank you for your help in advance.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Probably a case of worn brushes. I've also seen a report that a ground wire/strap for the motor doesn't connect to the housing properly.

    Try turning the key to ON. If the fan doesn't start like it should, tape the bottom of the HVAC box with the toe of your shoe. The blower motor is on the right side of the hump, but any vibration will cause it to make contact.

    The blower is held in by three screws. Pull the carpet back toward the seat; moving it allows more room to wiggle the blower and motor out. The hush panel under the passenger side dash comes off first with a few screws.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mariannesammariannesam Member Posts: 21
    Thanks imidazol97. It was the blower module.

    After I turned the key on and made sure the fan was set on high, no air was coming out and no sound of the blower. I tapped the blower area under the glove box near the fire wall and the fan came on!

    Removed the hush panel and blower module. Either the motor was worn or internal connections bad. External connectors looked good. Inside there was some dirt (I assume from the motor cooler/heater tube port even though I change/clean the cabin filter often - can see the filter with the blower out) and maybe the brushes were a little worn, so after about 80k miles, just replaced the blower module from Autozone (~$130) with lifetime warranty. A few screws like you said and it was pretty easy - did not even have to move the carpet out of the way.
  • srcitizensrcitizen Member Posts: 9
    I'm having a heck of a time finding a salvage driver's side windshield visor for my 95 Lesabre. Whatever is inside that connects to the mounting arm, won't hold it in normal place anymore. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited March 2010
    car-parts.com

    I don't know if they index interiors, but search for a part for the car and year like you want and then start calling the yards that are close enough to you to go visit.

    Also try rockauto.com and gmpartsdirect.com

    I don't know if they sell that kind of interior part or not.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • janquejanque Member Posts: 2
    i have worked in gm dealerships for 32 years . i have personally owned quite a few of them myself. in my personal opinion and from what i have seen working as a service advisor and manager at the dealership level , that older buicks with sunroof concern do no leak in the vehicle - so a simple solution to this is to simply run a garden hose over the top of the vehicle before buying to see if it leaks .. i find that these vehicles as they age just get better IF PROPERLY TAKEN CARE OF. thank you - hope this helps
  • blunj56blunj56 Member Posts: 1
    Having the same problem with my 1993 Buick LeSabre Custom. I think I figured it out today actually. If you disconnect the battery it will reset everything so it works for awhile but then it will stop at some point again. But the other day when my AC was working I noticed the Auto and Dual Zone buttons were lit. Today only the Economy button was lit and I couldn't get it to switch back to Auto. Consequently it must have something to do with the module that operates the buttons. I hope this gives you some insight. good luck. I have already paid $350 to have it fixed pretty funny that I figured it out
  • polara60polara60 Member Posts: 9
    edited June 2010
    My 95 LeSabre that I just spent $657 to replace the rear brake lines just dropped the subframe. I was turning right at a stop sign and heard a big pop and the 4 rear bolts gave way dropping the rusted collar subframe and the steering became very difficult. I did a search and did not find anything on this topic. It seems to be a common critical problem...see carsurvey.com To all of you with an older Buick LeSabre please have this checked out. I was fortunate and easily able to stop the car on a quiet side road. In some cases both the front and the back subframe bolts give way with the motor completely dropping!

    Now the question. The subframe is shot. What are my options if any? 157m miles perfect catalog of maintenance and car runs perfect. Any idea on repair estimates?

    But let me again say to all older LeSabre owners who live in the rust zones please get your subframe checked. The inspection isn't easy because the bushings hide the subframe rusted collar areas. Buick I understand later redesigned the subframe I think with the body redesign but this is a critical car failure with deadly consequences.

    TIA

    Bob
  • bob252bob252 Member Posts: 48
    OK, Yes this is a Buick forum, but the same problems do exist with Pontiac Bonnevile and Oldmobile 88's etc. as they are the same (other than the body) is there anyone out there that can communicate an impossible to find info about a problem with the overdrive unit? as my problem is the trans works smoothly, shifts properly and does go into O/D but after about 15-20 miles in o/d it slips (rpm surge,lightly) the fluid and filter have been changed prior to this problem. Also in the maxifuse center I discovered a blown SOLONOID 40 amp fuse, replaced it, the replacement remained unblown. I have an OLDS (1997) LSS with 140 thousand on it, (Just turned) anybody have an answer or guess where this problem is or do I have to go to a trans shop and risk the lack of knowlege for a great big wallet surprise. I am retired and do like to pay for what is needed, but I also do not have money to throw away, Thanks for reading HOPE I gave enough info, also it is NOT supercharged. Bob.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Do you know which transmission you have? 4T60E or 4T65E? If it's a 65E, then it may be a valve that modules the application of the TCC lockup from 99% down. This valve wears in the slot it fills and doesn't module properly. A fix is to replace the part in which is sits (throttle body?) and replace the valve. This requires removing the side place of the transmission which requires partial lifting for good access. A company,Sonnet, makes a replacement valve setup which requires drilling the hole larger and uses a sleeve.

    For most people the problem occurs after everything gets nice and warm. If it repeats the slight increases and decreases, try holding your foot on the brake pedal lightly to disengage the TCC lockup, and note if the surging feel from changes in the TCC lockup percentage is gone.

    I believe there also are a few problems in the 4T60E. But they are more specific in nature or more noticeable. This is very subtle. I am concerned that you don't have a 65E because I didn't think they were used in H-bodies until 1998.

    Search for RPO codes ont he internet. See if one of them is for the transmission installed. Your RPO code card is on top of the spare tire cover board inside your trunk.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bob252bob252 Member Posts: 48
    Thank you at least someone gave me a place to start. Not only that but very informative as well.
  • bob252bob252 Member Posts: 48
    Thank you again, I did go out and took a picture of the car, (Canada built) even the owners manual is in French..went to the junkyard and got a '96 one. as for the build date it is 9/96 also I have discovered by letting off of the gas it will drop back to 3rd instantly with no problem, it engages into O/D at 33=35 mph on flat ground, and as you described this does not happen until everything is warmed up. I am hoping that one of the several shops here South Central Ma. will do this work, anyway I tried the Lucas thing as the car was ff the road for two years inside garage and did all of the repairs needed (rear hub bearing upper intake new plugs etc.) The car is too good to thow away, no rust and every imaginal option available as this is the Cadillac of the Olds line. I cannot thank you enough for that info. Bob.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited June 2010
    The info that the car sat may mean, if it's a 4T65E that the cylinder within which the moving valve modulates got some deposits in it and that's affecting the movement...

    A good test would be to drop the trans pan and replace the half of the fluid that drains out with Dexron VI which I understand is primarily a synthetic based trans fluid for newer GM cars. OR put in synthetic fluid of your choice. It will take 6-7 quarts. Let the synthetic fluid with its detergency redissolve anything it will over 5-10K miles. See if it changes.

    I'm concerned by your description of dropping into 3rd. If you're above 45-48 mph and it's in 4th gear and the TCC is engaged, it should just go to 4th. The TCC will engage in 3rd gear above about 35. I'm wondering if your feeling various changes of torque converter lockup and are interpreting it as gear changes. If you think you're in 3rd and the selector is in OD, move it to 3rd and see if you feel a true downshift.

    If the trunk list of options has M15 that may be the 4T65E. M13 is the 4T60E, I think.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bob252bob252 Member Posts: 48
    Somehow part of my original post got lost, the fluid and filter were changed prior to this problem, and as advidse I looked at the APO tag and tried to find the info online, BUT your number is on the tag there are only 2 "m's on that tag and one is the one that M13, the other is MX0 with a slash through the "0" so I guess that it is 4T60E, when I did the service there was only normal stuff there, the usual light aluminum color on the bottom of the pan and the fluid was not burnt just dark. What my statement was NOT moving the shifter, but simply letting off the accelerator and it does in fact downshift to 3rd as it would if you were to use passing or accelerate up a hill, it stays locked in od as normal until after 15-20 miles, then the car will start acting like playing with the gas pedal the tack is not very sensitive so observing the rpms there doesn't help, it definetly is not a skip or misfire as the car jerks slightly as lock/unlock/lock into and out, that's the best I can do to eplain it, I really appreciate the help that can only be found here, especialy since it is acurate and very helpful. Bob.
  • irisrayirisray Member Posts: 2
    I'm considering buying a 2002 LeSabre. It has 118,000 miles on it. Is this too many? How many miles can you get out of a 3.8L engine before they go to engine heaven?

    I'm looking for a car that will last me for at least 3-4 years. I'll likely put on 5-6,000 miles/year.

    Thank you.
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