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Buick LeSabre

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  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    on your 00?

    The transmission may be having a problem with the lockup control valve in its bore. I thought that was a 95-99 problem, though.

    It would be worth changing the fluid if it hasn't been. (Should have been!) Mine started at 65 K in a 98. There is a replacement valve if that's the problem with a new liner for the bore in the control valve body. Getting it replaced by dealer was moderately expensive. I haven't checked at local trans quality repair shop. Will do that in a week or two when I have time.

    The trans occasionally feels like a miss in engine. It shows up sometimes or not when shifting between 3rd and 4th where the torque converter clutch is locked up. That valve modulates the slip in the torque converter giving a smooth release and reengagement when shifting.
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    I second imidazol97. Get the tranny flushed and see if that makes it better, sometimes that's all it needs. If not, then start thinking long and hard about sinking money into transmission repairs versus those low interest rates on a new car. I just bit the bullet and got a new Avalanche to replace my Tahoe. The Tahoe is great, only 63K miles but there is a small leak coming from the front of the tranny. AAMCO pulled it out and replaced the front seal, now it is leaking less but still a few drops here and there. Also, there is now a very subtle shudder when accelerating from a full stop. I just worry that every time they pull the tranny that something else will get messed up. That and the high labor costs, since it takes over seven hours just to pull the tranny out and put it back.

    Good luck!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    Not to dispute your experience about pulling the trans,
    but the service manager at the dealer said the Buick trans can have the valve body removed by partly taking things apart. Not cheap, not easy, but not a full removal.
    I'm anxious to see what the local individual reputable trans repairman says when I stop in a couple weeks from now.\

    And this is something they can diagnose driving the car with a Tech II attached or whatever it is...
  • Big thanks, imidazol and mlm, for useful info and suggestions about the trans in my 00 Lesabre.

    Miles 65K. Flush, with new filter and gasket, at 60K. Roadtest with trans service shown as "OK" on invoice at 60K service, but suspect test didn't get up to 45-50 mph where prob occurs (dealer is in district of city with speed limits at 30 or 35). No probs at all below 45 mph. Bought car at 30K, so I don't know if the flush at 60K was first one in car's history. Worth flushing again?

    A bit more detail.

    (1) Prob with uncertain shifts at 45-50 mph on slight upgrade without accel was minor but real at 30K. At 35K, as warranty was about to expire, had prob checked by GM dealer who sold me the car. No codes, and without codes, dealer didn't roadtest car. Realize I probably should have insisted. But at least my questioning the trans is on their records.

    (2) Prob has worsened slowly across the 35K I've owned car, and wasn't improved at all by flush/filter/gasket at 60K. But I'd be happy to try f/f/g again again if it makes sense.

    Again, many thanks for your comments.

    giants515
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,851
    A newspaper reporter aims to interview people who are dealing with vehicle recalls, especially of GM products, such as the recent problems with the back gate on the pickups. Please send your daytime contact info to farataye@yahoo.com or jfallon@edmunds.com by Wednesday, April 7, 2004. Thanks, Jeannine Fallon PR Director Edmunds.com

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  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that a full removal was required to get to the valves. I think they can just remove the oil pan and go into the case from below. I doubt another flush will help if one was recently done. Hopefully they really did the flush and not just change the fluid because only about half of the fluid comes out when the tranny is drained.
  • The receipt shows "flush." Will ask the service manager what's meant. Again, I appreciate the reply and info. Learning a lot from this.

    giants515
  • setzersetzer Posts: 127
    when is the LeSabre going to be replaced of redesigned? It must be soon with all of the new vehicles that have joined Buick.
  • ehaaseehaase Posts: 328
    The LeSabre will be redesigned for 2006 and will be renamed Lucerne.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    the coming LeSabre style?
  • setzersetzer Posts: 127
    would that be the 2006 model year or in 2 years 2006?
  • setzersetzer Posts: 127
    i posted this in the Park Avenue board, but it doesn't seem like anyone has been there in a month. So I will ask here. If the LeSabre is 06, when is the Park Avenue?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    ryanfiala81
    Have you gotten the belt changed yet?
    My dealer did it for me ($17) by jacking up the front of the car slight and turning the right front wheel and worked from the wheel well to remove the bolt which lets the spacer drop free and you can change the belt through there. Apparently the bolt can go back through the mount and the spacer without the engine dropping enough or twisting to prevent a linear fit.

    I'd have a long piece of wood and an extra jack to lift slightly on a strong part of the engine to help the bolt fit it IF that occured.

    I'm about ready to change mine again at 105K. I'll let you know if it worked.

    The manual says you have to lift the engine with the upper mounts to take weight off the mount. A local car radio mechanic said to put a jack and piece of wood UNDER the oil pan -- NOT FOR ME. the manual warns about not lifting under the oil pan. Can damage oil intake.

    ryanfiala81
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    I see that you posted in December about a hard start problem.
    Did you fix that? Was it a weak fuel pump from running empty or low fuel too many times with the previous owners? Was it pressure valve not retaining pressure when turned off?
    Try turning the key to on and then back off then to on three times to build up pressure to see if it's weak fuel pressure after sitting.

    Code for lean fuel probably isn't oxygen sensor. There's something else making the engine Need lots of fuel and the system isn't supplying it therefore a signal that there's not enough fuel. Look for bad temp sensor telling computer that engine is colder than it really is, e.g.

    Maybe ALcan on here has an idea of what goes wrong with that particular year.

    Cincy radio mechanic just discussed yesterday that there's no code that says oxygen sensor is bad. He defied any (name of store that does free readouts and saleclerks tell people it's the oxygen sensor) people to show him one. He'd bring his books to their store if they thought they could.
    He says it's usually another sensor/engine problem. This guy is good. I trust him.
  • ehaaseehaase Posts: 328
    My understanding is that the Park Avenue will be dropped after 2005. The lower level Lucerne will replace the LeSabre, and the higher level Lucerne, probably with a Northstar V8, will replace the Park Avenue. The cars will debut for the 2006 model year, so they will be here in about 18 months. I am not an insider, this is just what I have picked up from reading Automotive News and reading what some industry insiders have said at other boards.
  • setzersetzer Posts: 127
    alright, thanks!
  • Thanks for the input, imidazol97. The car starts pretty well now, thanks to having had the intake plennum and fuel pressure regulator (I think that's the part that sits under the plennum) replaced at a steep cost. I still get that check engine light. It'll come on at idle every few weeks (the car only throws this code every now and then), and stick around usually until the next time I start the car up. I'll look into changing that temp sensor if I can locate it. I can probably pull off that serpentine replacement with a friend with your advice. Thanks for your input, and feel free to post any additional suggestions that come to mind. If there's any message boards that you know your guy ALcan posts on, let me know and I'll see what he has to say.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    alcan hangs out on our Maintenance and Repair board. Look for an appropriate discussion, or just post in the "Got a Quick Technical Question?" discussion. Keep us posted here, also. :)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    Ryanfiala is the light steady or flashing?
    IF it's steady, it's emissions related. Possibly a bad seal on the gas cap if it goes on and off. Try putting some petroleum jelly on the gas cap rubber seal. Then when you drive the car and it's only luke warm and it's restarted, it goes through a pressure checking cycle. If it finds the system holds vacuum well enough then the light goes off.
  • vet5vet5 Posts: 9
    The cruise control on my 2003 LeSabre seems to "get tired". Locked on at 75 MPH, after a while (45 minutes or so) cranks down 3 or 4 MPH and sits there instead. It doesn't happen every time the cruise is on. Car has 13,000 miles on it, otherwise great, no vibrations in 16 inch Mich. tires, etc. Any comments on the cruise control? (Headed to dealer under warranty for a peak - the dealer here is SUPER). Thanks.
  • isom1isom1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 LeSabre and am having trouble with the way it handles, particularly on windy days and on the freeway when I pass large trucks. The steering seems unstable and I have to constantly move the wheel to hold the car in the road. It feels as if it is too loose, but then I'm told it may be the tires. The set that came with it is new, of course. Has anyone had similar problems?
    I had an older LeSabre and loved the way it handled.
  • kcwolfpack59kcwolfpack59 Posts: 122
    Try having it aligned. I have heard if there is too much toe in or out, it will make the car squirrely. Also, check to see if you have 30 pounds of pressure in all tires. I bet yours could be over-inflated. Many folks mistakenly air up to 35 because it it written on the tire as maximum. I do not have a problem at all with the way mine drives when it is windy. It also has good on center feel and does not drift around.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    Which tires do y ou have? General on 15 inch wheels or Michelin on 16 inch wheels? The alignment is important. Mine has slightly more wind movement after if was correctly aligned to try to eliminate the wheel vibration.

    The tire pressure DOES make a difference, too.
    Go to 30 and see how you like it.

    The car has the large, slab sides compared to my 98 LeSabre, therefore it has more wind pressure affecting the driving.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    LeSabre related postings here.
    Is anyone reading in this discussion????
  • Dose anyone know why our 2003 Buick LeSabre Limited Celebration Ed keeps on blowing digital AC/Heater Control, Head Up Display, and seat heater ckt fuse IGN 3 located under rear seat? Blows when trying to start car with AC/Heater set on Auto. Dealer has it a third time now. Second time, said brown wire under seat to heater was shorting out on cushion coil so they rerouted wire. Still have problem. Thanks.
  • mutmut Posts: 2
    I am also having problems with my 2003 LeSabre being very unstable at 70 mph, especially on a windy day. Have had the dealer align it twice and an independent garage once. All say is is lined up according to specs. Normally run the tires at 30 psi, have tried 35 with no change. Did the day in the saddle with the tech rep, whose main effort was to convince me that i'm too sensitive. This is my third Le Sabre with no problems with the first two. An experienced mechanic suggested I get rid of the General tires and put on Michelain tires, thinking the sidewalls were too flexible. If you push against the rear side of the car you can easily get the car swaying and it's just the tires flexing. The car does not have a rear sway bar. The car goes straight down the road, with no tendancy to pull left or right. It just seems that as you approach 70-75mph it gets very unstable, easily disturbed by crosswind or turbulence behind a large truck. If anyone has any ideas I would sure appreciate hearing them, I don't want to badmouth the car, I just want to fix it. Thanks.
  • kcwolfpack59kcwolfpack59 Posts: 122
    If you are shopping for tires, get the Tire Rack folks involved. Spend time on their website. There is a questionaire about what you are looking for in a tire (noise, ride, handling etc.)
    Then maybe call and get their opinion on your choices.
    If not, I can tell you, as in a previous post, I really don't think mine is abnormal. You have to correct some, and you have to correct more than my more aerodynamic Monte Carlo. But I think it is about par for a car of this type. We used to have a 95 Olds 98 which you had to correct a little less. I just think the newer Buick is a little more slab sided.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,087
    I'd stick with Michelin for the tires that roll round under load. The H chassis has sensitivity to unevenness in tires and if the tires check with too much unevenness when rolling on the Hunter 9700 -- they replace them with Michelin Symmetry tires.

    The people writing on that online store tend toward performance cars and the customer reviews..., who knows what they look for.
    You're looking for a quality tire for travel and around town, not for hard driving or hot rodding.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You can also check with the Town Hall's very own Tire Rack rep in this discussion: Ask Connor at the Tire Rack
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