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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1171820222335

Comments

  • plietzplietz Member Posts: 1
    My van is feeling like a bucking bronco. big clunking noises from either transfer case or front diff. Can someone tell me how to determine which is the culprit and can the front diff just disconnected by removing front driveshaft as the awd is not that important to me
    Thanks for any advise
    peter
  • iwhiteyiwhitey Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 AWD Astro that I purchased used in March. I had and still have to some degree, the front wheel grabbing issue. I have done the transfer case service and replaced the fluid in the front diff. I should also mention that I had to have the rear end replaced since that crapped out on me this summer (3.73 gears, no LSD). When I performed the t-case service, the van was still stuck in AWD all the time. A tech at my local dealer told me to bring it in and that he had this happen all the time. He took the van in slow figure 8's until there was a loud POP sound. He said that was the clutches letting go and that I should be good to go. Since then I only have slow speed turning issues when I first start the van (keep reading).

    The problem I'm having is that the front wheels will not engage when the rear wheels slip. However, I know the AWD works, because whenever I start the van, the AWD is engaged until I drive it about 30 yards, then I can hear the relay under the dash kick it off. This is when the front wheels grab and actually bind up if I try a tight turn. When I say bind, I mean it stops the van.

    That is the only time the AWD drive is on by itself and it is such a pain in the a** when I'm in a tight parking spot that I installed a switch in place of the AWD fuse. This way I can turn the module off at will (I have a 20A inline fuse to the switch to replace the standard fuse). This works pretty well, but I cannot just turn the AWD on whenever I want. This, in theory, should not present an issue with the van recognizing when the AWD needs to kick in, unless of course I leave the switch off.

    Does anyone know exactly how this AWD system is supposed to work? Are there sensors I should be looking at? Does it sense wheel spin, or does it function by inertia?

    On a side note - I haven't looked into it yet, but I'm wondering if I can just replace the module fuse that I bypassed and instead replace the AWD relay with the switch. This way I can control when it comes on and when it shuts off. I'm assuming the relay I hear clicking is a simple dual pole single throw, but I may be off on that assumption. I really don't care if I have to turn the AWD drive on manually, as long as it turns on.

    Any ideas?
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    With all the advice and recent success of the Air Conditioner replacement bracket on my grandson's Astro. The van has developed another problem. The motor has developed a loping, irregular idle ling situation. We worked on it all day yesterday. (12-02-05) Began with giving the intake a good shot of carb cleaner. Then a can of (Advance suggested (white Can-$5.00 and change per)injector fluid in gas tank.)This helped some. At least it continues to run when driving it. But the problem is still there. So we took the advice of the Advance Part's sales manager and he seemed to know what the problem is. He said that TSIS sensor to the gas feed was bad and we bought one-Not too expensive by the way-Little over $8:00-and he also said that we could replace it from under the hood. We could not find it under the hood nor could we find it after removing the cover from atop the motor in the cab. He said that the connection was a yellow and red wire. Need someone to give a diagram as to where it is specifically. Would appreciate it greatly. Bozie
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    It is not a TSIS sensor it is a TSU sensor. Sorry about the confusion.
    Bozie
  • maxhnbmaxhnb Member Posts: 1
    Not only do you have to replace the plugs but also the wires (about every 25,000 mi) despite the warranties because of the breakdowns in the circuitry. Also to get back the smoothness in the engine performance consider this. You will need to replace the coil, the pcv valve,
    and most likely the EGR valve which tends to carbon up and also breakdown. keep and eye also on spraying the throttle area with carb cleaner and run a few cans of Seafoam through the fuel system to keep the carbon minimal and injectors clean.

    Oh and do replace the Delco Distributor caps with brass or copper post caps becasue the Delco caps now are made of aluminum and tend to cause arcing inside the cap. Try standard ignition products. Also replace the rotor.
  • david56david56 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on a 2003 Astro in the first 100 miles! The mirror was not glued in properly and the dealer just pulled the mirror loose from the frame as I watched and then they reglued it. It was a known problem to them.
  • stucazzstucazz Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my '94 Astro and replaced the little computer board behind the black plastic cover attached to the wiper motor and haven't had the problem for 5 years,and wipers work great now.I read on another site that if you remove the computer board and re-solder the electrical connections that are attatched to the plug(they develope hairline cracks)that this also solves the problem without replacing the board.I hope this helps you out!!!!!!
  • stucazzstucazz Member Posts: 2
    I've asked around because my '02 does it once in a while,and apparently it is a bad connection or connections on the sending unit which on my '02 is attached to the fuel pump.I'm not exactly sure what years have the sending unit in the gas tank,but that is what i have been told!!!
  • bukolbukol Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 91' astro AWD few years back...to cut my time loss, since i use it for hauling boxes... yes, you could remove the front shaft and functions as 2-wheel drive, just remove the bolts holding it from front differential to transfer case.... the only problem with the AWD switch to 2-wheel drive is------- if loaded and going uphill, you will feel like the automatic transmission giving up(feels tooooooo heavy for the van to move).

    alternative, shop around... it cost me around 500.00, getting a pull-out front differential installed. go to recyclers, for short junk yard.
  • skipper4skipper4 Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • skipper4skipper4 Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • skipper4skipper4 Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • stan7stan7 Member Posts: 7
    It was slammed shut and now the drivers side won't disengage. The right side does. How can I fix this? I guess I need access to the lock thru removing interior panels? What do I do when I access the lock? See if it's broken? Stuck? Haven't even tried yet. Easy to do? Two body guys said they won't touch it.....
  • stan7stan7 Member Posts: 7
    My 2000 had this happen over 2-years ago. Have to pull it up by hand while the window motor is running. Cleaning and silconing the side tracks helped but I think that when the window encounters any resistance, it stops - that's why it stops when the window stops when it hits the top of the door...anyway, I just live with it. Yet another problem with the Astro....
  • scotsman93535scotsman93535 Member Posts: 40
    I asked the window question in Oct 2005 and never received a reply until now. I ended up doing the window motor repair myself.

    I pulled the door panel off and then drilled out the rivets holding the motor and removed just the motor. I purchased a new motor from a local auto parts store and installed it using sheet metal screws. Sounds simple but it did take some thinking on how to handle this.

    The old motor still worked but obviously had some bad gear teeth inside as it would only move the window a few inches up and down, leaving the window about 8 inches from the top.

    The cost of the motor was about $70.00
  • lukesdadlukesdad Member Posts: 5
    :cry: I recently was driving my 87 Astro and it stalled while at a stop. I restarted it and it would not move faster then a crawl while feathering the gas. I managed to park it and turn it off. After restarting it, it seemed to run fine, until I put it back into gear, then the engine continued to bog and sputter, unless I was feathering the gas to keep it running. The books and online sources state it could be a vacuum leak, but after checking the engine I'm not finding and leaks.
    Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong with it?
  • keshbkeshb Member Posts: 1
    High speed inline fuse is located behind the battery .
  • 99si99si Member Posts: 2
    Ive had the same problem turned out to be the mass airflow sensor
  • 99si99si Member Posts: 2
    hello so.. ive replaced the fuel pump and controll module ,i get 45 lbs of gas at the shrader valve and have spark,its yello not blue,wondering why it wont start?? knock sensor?new coil?? not sure.

    please help somebody!!!
    :cry:
  • chris52chris52 Member Posts: 1
    I went out to start this van the other day. It would turn over fine but wouldn't start. It had been running fine for the last 3 months since I bought it. I tried starting it until I killed the battery and it wouldn't even try to start. I had a friend who is a mechanic look at it. He checked the fuel pressure, "55-63", he also checked every spark plug with a light. Every plug is firing. So, I have good fuel pressure and the plugs are firing. This makes no sense to me. This van was running perfect and was not giving me any reason to think something was wrong. Any ideas. Thanks.
  • 331jrg331jrg Member Posts: 1
    This may not help but I have a 96 safari (134k) that does the same thing on cold damp days, usually raining and or snowing. Go to start it first thing in the morning and the engine cranks over fine but won't start. I found that when the vehicle is moved inside to warm-up and dry out (like in a shop) It will then start up like nothing was ever wrong, and continue to run fine till the next time the weather turns cold and damp. The dealership put in a new fuel pump, did not help. Last week it failed to start, I pulled the engine cover and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, so far so good.
  • biffoonbiffoon Member Posts: 8
    Yep me too. I also have a 96 Astro (312K) and thats what I did, changed the cap and rotor and I to am so far so good.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    And my daughter loves her 1991 Astro with all the interior volume. Her main dislike is the very limited foot and leg space for the front passenger and the fact that the van is getting old. It was "well used" when she purchased it about 5 years ago after her 1989 Plymouth Voyager was totalled when the other driver ran into her van in an intersection striking the Voyager at the left front wheel.
    A FWD vehicle does not have to be very old to be totalled in a collision when a driving wheel is struck from the side. :cry:
  • dexguydexguy Member Posts: 3
    hello everyone. i took my safari in for emissions testing yesterday and they said the idle was 1390 rpm. they won't test anything higher than 1100 rpm. my question is.... how do i lower the idle?? any suggestions or advice would be very helpful. thanks..
  • johnaecjohnaec Member Posts: 11
    I recently purchased a 99 Astro with only 42K mles and the Dutch Door option. I really didn't want the Dutch doors, but it's what it had. Looks like I was right. Less than 2 weeks ownership, and the upper portion won't open. It makes all the sounds, like you can hear what seems to be the mechanism working inside the door, but no go.

    I read a bunch of other messages here about similar problems, but none seem to address mine directly.

    Any suggestions? I can't even see any way to get into the mechanism from the inside - there doesn't appear to be any way to get the inside panels off while the door is closed. Is a dealer shop going to be able to help me without damaging something? I've got a bunch of stuff that I really need to get out!

    Thanks for any info - John
  • johnaecjohnaec Member Posts: 11
    Well, I managed to get the trim piece off from the inside, though it meant cracking it where the two upper side screw were, since you can't get to those unless the door is open, (bad design!). I was then able to see where the little plastic connector/holders that hold the outside ends of the release rods to the actual latches had broken on both ends. Hopefully I can get just these from Checy parts. (Why'd they make them plastic, anyway??). I really can't figure how both of them broke at once - maybe when I see what the whole part looks like it will make sense.

    John
  • dexguydexguy Member Posts: 3
    i have a 92 safari awd. the idle is way too high, any ideas on how to get it back down where it belongs?. i also have that problem with the rear hatch glass not wanting to open. but one thing at a time.
  • xboxxbox Member Posts: 2
    I had the smae problem with my 97 Safari (25000 KLM).Just changed plug,dist.cap and plugs. After that on problems. :blush:
  • henryhintzhenryhintz Member Posts: 2
    If you have the 4.3 motor, check the thin gasket at the base of the throttle body. I have an 89 s-10 with a 4.3 and it idled like a jet. I replaced the <$10 gasket myself and fixed it. Pretty simple repair, less than an hour, no special tools
  • henryhintzhenryhintz Member Posts: 2
    I had the runblestrip noise at about the same speeds. I went through several service trips until I finally got the GM Factory "Expert" in my van. Drive the vehicle up to just below where the vibration occurs, lightly, just enough to turn on the brake lights, step on the brake and accelerate smoothly past the vibration speed. If the vibration does not occur it is your torque converter. The expert says the torque converter is shuddering instead of locking in. The torque converter is locked out when the brake cicuit is engaged. My vehicle was under warranty for my repair and the problem was resolved.
  • severmanseverman Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem. The rod that releases the driver's side came off at the center pivot point. I was able to fix the problem by the following:
    (from the inside):
    I removed the handle from the back lid. There are plastic covers on each side of the handle that cover the bolts. I removed these. Then I removed the bolts. There was a larger plastic piece behind the handle that also came off once these bolts were removed. I was able to see the pivot point. The bottom of the pivot had a hole in it where the rod was suppose to be. It was tight quarters, but I felt inside the opening for the rod with my finger and was able to pull/push it to release the driver's side. With the passenger side already released and the diver's side now released, I was able to open the lid. At this point I found it easier to stand outside and fix the problem.
    (from the outside):
    I had to fish the rod back into the hole in the pivot. There is a shoulder/ridge on the tip of the rod where some sort of clip should be put after the rod is back into the hole. I used a small plastic tie wrap instead and fished it through the hole and around the rod. It seems to work pretty good, however, you may want to get a new clip instead. But good luck trying to get it back on (on the backside). There just isn't much room to work.

    Good luck, if you haven't already found the solution.
  • dexguydexguy Member Posts: 3
    i was able to get the idle back down to 800 rpm. it had a vacuum leak. now it runs alot better. i was surprised to find out that i have a 27 gallon gas tank. made it from seattle to northern california on 1 tank. los angeles on 2 tanks..
  • yamyyamy Member Posts: 3
  • yamyyamy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Safari that has the security light come on from time to time. Some times when I start it, it will come on and stay on. Other times I will start it an it will be off and come on later as I am driving it. And sometimes it will go off as I am driving it. I have no drive ability problems when it is running. But sometimes when I go to crank it,it will run for a second and die out. If I wait for 10 minutes it will start up with no problem. This no start or stall may happen a couple times in a day and other times go for 3-4 weeks and not happen but the light may come and go during those weeks.
  • tkwtkw Member Posts: 29
    My 98 Safari's power door lock at the back door & sliding door seems to stick occasionally. I can hear the clicking of the solenoid but it didn't open the latch. In the case of the back door, it can be open to the 1st latching position but stuck at the secondary latching position. Both doors can be opened manually with key. Any idea? Would a little WD40 help?
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Finnaly found the location of the tsu sensor. Near and to the bottom left of the thermostat goose neck. We replaced it and the thermostat but that did not solve the continuse loping as if the throttle was allowing too much fuel erractly.So that's where we stand. Gas metering problem with curb idling thrown in. Anyone have a suggestion what to do next? Bozie
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    The going thing now in my book is white lithium spray grease. Good for most applications. Will stay with place applied. Bozie
  • lukesdadlukesdad Member Posts: 5
    Still having problems finding info on my 87 Astro. I was recently able to get her started after replacing the fuel pressure regulator, but she still doesn't run right. While in gear she is TERRIBLY sluggish, and feels like the power is not there. The tranny doesn't seem to be the problem. So I'm left with the engine. While inspecting the engine and the TBI, I noticed a small vacuum inlet coming out of the intake manifold with nothing connected to it. I'm not the first owner of this van, and it's pretty obvious someone wasn't sure what was going on with the vacuum system. Does anyone have any idea what the mystery vacuum port is, how I would reroute all the vacuum lines correctly, or why she's still not running correctly otherwise?
    It is an 87 Chevy Astro, 4.3L V6, with a 220 TBI. I'm not sure what the year of the engine is as it was a rebuilt installed before I ever saw the van, but it looks like a 87-88 to me. Any info would help at this point....THANKS!!!
  • mmikolajczakmmikolajczak Member Posts: 2
    Check resistor board which is located behind fluid reservoirs to the right from blower motor. Disconnect plug, undo two screws and pull out the board. I had mine fixed couple of times already. You can fix it by resoldering burnt paths or replace the board.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    And now has 212,727 miles on the odometer. I offered to loan her our 2002 T&C for a 900 mile trip next weekend. She, her husband, and their children love their Astro so she may decline the offer.
  • ryanrsmith21ryanrsmith21 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Safari that is idoling very rough. It sounds like its starving for gas. Its really puttering and sounds like it will die at any moment, but keeps running. When I shift into reverse or drive, it will die out unless im pressing on the gas. I'm having to shift into neutral at stop signs to rev up the engine to keep it from dying. It has plenty of cranking power when starting, but I need to pump the gas to get it to start. The lights and electrical still work fine which leads me to believe its not a battery problem. Sounds like a bad fuel filter, but I'm just a novice. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks everyone in advance...
  • alexander51alexander51 Member Posts: 1
    Just drove our '96 AstroVan from Alaska to Florida - no problems and great gas mileage. Now, however, the charging system is only working occassionally. Sometimes the guage shows the correct charge and other times is goes down to the red and just a week ago it went completely down and we had to have it towed home. I took the alternator out and took it to an electrical shop and had it tested and it is working fine - any ideas. Everything seems to work fine except the passenger side power window which only goes down about an inch at a time. I don't really want to take it to a shop without some sort of idea what might be wrong. ANy help would be greatly appreciated!
  • dannyg40dannyg40 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I been looking for a used Astro. Kinda like the mini-van look of the Astro. I found one right near the house by me. Problem is the guy wants to much for the amount of work it needs. I been looking at this forum and reading for a while so I kinda know what to look out for. It's amazing the same issues come up with the one I looked at. Get this..... The guy is asking $1800, (but will take $1700) for a 1991 Astro with 108,000 miles. The problems...... The dash is loose from him mounting a stereo and a piece of the small trim is missing, the right side power window dont work, the dvd player in the TV dont work, the anti-lock brake lite stays on, it idles rough when cold, the heater blower relay has to be shaken sometimes to get the blower on and the power wire gets hot, there is a small leak near the left side of the intake manifold near the corner, windshield has a crack, the last rear seat mounting brackets are missing, the sliding door sticks and needs to be forced open, the right side washer hose is missing, the temp gauge nevers goes to normal operating temp, when making a turn the steering kinda makes a rubbing noise like something near the wheel in the column once in a while, the steering seems to pull to the left a little, and a few other small things. I guess I better keep looking. He wants way to much for the amount of work it needs. I offered him $1200, but he wont take it, he wants at least $1700. I think its gonna be around for sale for a while......
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    I think you should stay away from that Astro. I have never heard of an Astro having that many problems. :sick:
  • mbcabbiembcabbie Member Posts: 2
    Welcome to Chevy Astros. They are famous for fuel pump problems. We run alot of Astros as cabs, and EVERY one of them eats fuel pumps. At least yours is a 95 and not a 97 or newer. 97 and newer require a $300 pump assembly instead of a $50 pump (unless you know how to change the pump within the assembly).

    All in all, though, I must say that Astros are THEE most dependable vans out there, motor-wise , even with thier quirks. We have several with 300,000- 500,000 miles on the original motors (and we drive them like cabs, not like grandmas). They are indestructable.
  • mbcabbiembcabbie Member Posts: 2
    I LOVE my Astro!

    This is a 314,000 mile 1999 Astro with a STRONG original motor (doesn't use a single drop of oil) and 54,000 mile tranny (we got 260k out of the original). Other than the requisite 75k mile fuel pumps, its been a trouble-free (reletively) TAXICAB since it was bought as a demo with 20k on it. (Thank God for Auto-zone's lifetime gurantee on the fuel pumps... LOL - I only pay for someone to help me with the grunt work instead of the $600 at the shop)

    I don't really know how to describe this problem. Started 3 days or so ago when it was raining (pouring) and has snowballed into an undrivable problem. Nothing shows up on diagnostics. This is my work vehicle - a taxi - (and my sole income) and everyone is baffled. I need it back on the road.

    It started with a simple flickering of the headlights ... once in a while. Then it progressed to flickering headlights AND a speedometer doing the tango (at the same time). Then to dummy lights coming on - mostly anti-lock, but no check engine, PLUS all of the above. Cruise control kicks out, too. Now it is happening every 15 or 30 seconds or so, AND is disengaging the tranny at the same time as everything else is going haywire. Total event (all symptoms) lasts maybe a second or 2 at a time. All of the above happen at once, so I know it is a power loss of some kind and ita all related, but it doesn't make any sense. Sounds to me like some sort of ground problem.

    I knew the coil was bad and arcing, so we tried that first. Had a burnt spot on it, even. NO relief at all.

    Lost the fuel pump 2 weeks ago (again!) but that doesn't have anything to do with this, I don't think.

    How do I get the gremlins out of the system? Any ideas?
  • lostmachaniclostmachanic Member Posts: 1
    How do you remove the interior door panels? I need to replace the drivers side mirror and the passenger side window switch?

    Any suggestions on the best place to buy these parts for my 2003 Chevy Astro?
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    mbcabbie, you might also want to ask the folks in this Maintenance & Repair discussion:

    Electronic Gremlins Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • paltalkpaltalk Member Posts: 2
    I had to replace the fuel pump assembly module, which contains the electric pump and the fuel gauge sending unit. I did the work myself with help from a neighbor. The module cost over $400 US.
    It was a coincidence the pump was going bad at the same time the fuel gauge became inaccurate. After I replaced it, I did a continuity check on the sending unit, and it measured the specified 40-240 Ohms, smooth as silk. So, to borrow a line from the film 2001: A Space Odyssey, "I'll be damned if I can find anything wrong with it."
    Since then I thought the problem occurred again, but it was either my imagination or it corrected itself.
    BTW, I think the only way to troubleshoot this problem is to drop the tank and do measurements at the connectors.
  • rompinreggierompinreggie Member Posts: 1
    My old work van runs terrible on hills. A long hill will come close to killing her. The van shutters, almost shimmies, sounds wierd.
    It had a rebuilt engine about 65000 KM ago, and I know has something wrong with #1 cylinder, with the plug fouling up bad. I install a hotter plug, and that seems to cure the ailment, just for #1. I just installed new plugs, and it didn't help much, other than it idles better than before. New wires and cap last plug change before the most recent. We don't drive long distances where I live, so plugs may wear out sooner, than going down a freeway everyday. I know nothing about cars/trucks, as I am a carpenter. I love my old van, but this hill-thing is annoying, and I feel one day she may quit for good. Any ideas?
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