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also my van is hard to start for the first time in the day (morning or afternoon) and when it does finally start after i pump some gas into the lines it blows smoke BAD. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. or is this normal for an older Safari?
P.S. I LOVE this site thanks again for the help
The problem is an easy fix. At first, I thought it was my alternator or battery, but they were both ok. When I went to re-install the battery, I noticed that the connection terminals behind my battery at the firewall were corroded/rusted. I loosened all of them and cleaned them. I had to replace one of the fusible links because the wire was so badly corroded (the fusible link was actually still good, but the wire was damaged right up to the link)
After cleaning the connections and replacing the fusible link, everything works great.... BE CAREFUL NOT TO SNAP OFF THE RUSTED STUD. I would use WD40 on a stubborn rusted stud.
Good Luck. Hope this helps.
Thanks Billszcar.
Thanks geoff
Puled cover/defroster grille - all tight there.
Car was in minor accident, left fender replaced, so warranty work not an option.
Any one have a manual/drawing on how dash is removed or how you get access to this area?
Thanks, Roger e-mail: avtrdinc@aol.com
I am on my 4th Astro/Safari. Had a great time with three previous used vans. ('91 Safari, '94 Safari, '98 Astro AWD, and now an '02 Astro AWD) We have had the '02 since August and have replaced coil, distributor and rotor, had rearend rebuilt, and a new battery. Aside from the rearend, the others were probably overdue for replacement. Still having probs with drivetrain jerking. We purchased a warranty with this van, and I'm glad we did. If my wife hadn't wrecked the other three, I wouldn't be on my fourth one now. We love them, and I recommend them, but do your homework before you buy, and consider an extended warranty if possible. One major problem and it will pay for itself. See if the lot will let you have the van checked out by a mechanic you trust. Best Wishes.
Change the fluid in the transfer case.
Use only the GM fluid. The dealer where I got mine called it "Smurf Juice", because it is blue. The change is easy to do. Pull the drain plug on the back of the transfer case at the bottom edge, drain fluid, put plug back in. Remove fill plug above the drain plug, (make sure the van is level), then fill the transfer case until the fluid drips out of the hole. Reinstall plug. No more chattering and it will cost less than $20.
My daughter's 1991 Astro RS has a broken driver's door handle. I have heard it costs about $100 for the handle and labor to replace the handle at a dealership. The handle itself costs about $48. Is this correct?
With 213,000 miles on the odometer, a person can expect a few minor repairs. The transmission performs flawlessly even with all these miles.
She loves the HUGE interior space of the Astro with the large 27 gallon fuel tank and decent gas mileage. The Astro is not as long as my 2002 T&C LX but has much greater interior space.
I would have considered an Astro/Safari if GM had done something to modernize them after they were introduced as 1985 models in late 1984.
Although the Explorer is an SUV, Ford has continually made improvements. The Explorer is a very nice, quiet, comfortable truck based vehicle. The Astro/Safari would still sell in large numbers had GM been as smart as Ford was with the Explorer.
Thanks for your reply. Your symptoms of "chirp" and "chattering" sound familiar. Before I had the rear end rebuilt, I added fluid to the differential. GM told me to use Synthetic Axle Lubricant 75-W90. I did. Later when the rear end was rebuilt, if I remember correctly, the guy told me that any lubricant was sufficient, therefore leading me to believe that just "any" lubricant was used and that just "any" lubricant is NOT sufficient. I will investigate this issue. Thanks again for your help.
mib4uk
changed oil now white smoke pours out of the exhaust
not sure what to check. any ideas Thanks
I also have a remote start unit that recently started acting up. It starts and runs the vehicle fine, but occasionally it doesn't turn on the accessories (heat or a/c) and at the same time the airbag light is lit. Once I disable the remote start unit (hit the brake) the airbag light goes off. May or may not be related? Appreciate anyone's help!
(van has 65K orig miles, on transmission #2, #1 went at 37K, on fuel pump #4)
Thanx
baldwin4
Any tips on a better way to change the plugs? I really don't want to go through what I did last time, and I don't feel like paying a mechanic to just change plugs.
I am at my wits end. Lately in the morning if I do not warm my 98 safari, it will not accelerate when i hit the gas. Naturally, I allow it to warm up. Today, driving long distance it happened several times almost causing me to get run off the road and rear ended. The car was not cold. When attempting to accelerate to enter the expressway it took an excruciating amount of time for the van to get to 60 causing a semi to run me onto the next entry ramp. It would also occasionally lose speed down to 60 and take about 30-60 sec to get back up to over 70 again. During this time the security light was on. I have NO IDEA what this light is for.
Apart from this whole problem, my electric locks are going nuts and I had to take the fuse out to make them stop locking/unlocking constantly.
ANY HELP WOULD BE WONDERFUL!!!!!
The catalytic converter has already been replaced.
thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you
Kerrie
Hope this helps,
Chris
Now I’m searching for the brake lite switch on the brake peddle so that I can splice into the cold side of the switch for eventual connection to the brake controller.
All I see is a multi color row of wires (about 6 of them). Any one know where the switch is located on the brake peddle.
-gary