GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

lsll · July 2007

Is your van a Mini Cargo Van? Is it powered. Does it have the 2 doors or is it a 3 door? A 2 door will not have it and a 3 door should. Do you have a power key control buttons. I would suggest you go and look at another 2000 van and see if they have one. also, look by the steering column or even check your manual.

lsll · July 2007

I would check the shocks on each side of the window. They could be bad. Also, check your lock on the right door to make sure your key is working both locking and unlocking. This should help you out.

lsll · July 2007

Change your gas station.

lsll · July 2007

Try another gas station and use the 87 octang gas. I have only used Speedway and get good gas mileage. You might wanna try Costco if you have one in your area.

lsll · July 2007

Do you remove any back seats? I would check and see if there are any holes where the seat is connected in the floor. I have taken out my seats in the back and the carpet got wet. I looked inside the holder where the seat bolts down into and sure enough there was a hole. This is where the water was coming in.

lsll · July 2007

If you are looking to buy a newer one i would not bother. But take it to a shop and have them lift it up to see what is wrong and they will give you a price.

lsll · July 2007

I own a 96 Safari and i love it. The difference is the Safari has a better heavier underbody than the Astro. There has not been any Recalls on the Safari's but they did on the Astro's. Any Safari is very good.

lsll · July 2007

Check back where you got it for more details. Some dealership or private dealership would tell you more on it.

lsll · July 2007

do you hear the fan working? if not have it checked.

lsll · July 2007

It is your compressor. Have the ac checked and culd tell you need a new one.

lsll · July 2007

I am a women who drives a 91 Safari Caro Van no windows and a 96 Safari AWD Passenger Van. I love mine. Your wife just has to start using the mirrors when backing up otherwise she will do good. I like the Safari's Van because of the Heavy duty suspension on them than Astro Van's. Astro Van's the height is lower than the Safari. Especially for head room.

bobble60 · July 2007

I once slammed my window (lid) hard enough to disengage the latch internally. When i pushed the actuator, only the right latch would release, so the lid would not raise.

From the inside, remove the strap handle. Do this by popping off the rectangual covers at each end to expose the screws. Once the handle is off, you can remove the trim and see the latch connections. There should be a connecting rod from that pivot to each side latch. The rods merely slip into the holes.

If both rods are on and the mechanism articulates properly when the actuator is pressed (from the outside,) then one latch rod must be off at the latch itself.

lsll · July 2007

If you go to an Auto Parts Store and buy the Maintainence book it will have pictures of how to take it out. You should be able to see if you were to take out the center dash.

lsll · July 2007

I would have two things checked. One is the iner/outer wheel bearing depending on which side you feel it on. Then i would check to see if the Frame is bent underneath. This would also cause it to vibrate.

astroknot · July 2007

I also have a 2000 Astro van with about 90K miles and has a similar problem. It has a vibration between 65 and 70 mph. The vibration has gotten worse over the last 6 months so I suspect that something is wearing out in the drive train. I had my mechanic check it and he balanced wheels and said that one tire took a lot of weight to balance but it did balance. Then I had him replace U-joints when that did not work. Then had him replace shocks. When that did not work mechanic said maybe rear wheel not fitting tightly to brake drum so replaced the drum. When that did not fix it I took van to Chevy Dealer. They said the tires were lousy and replaced tires. When that did not fix it they said the drive shaft must have been bent when mechanic changed U-joints so they replaced it. When that did not work they changed front brake rotors. (One rotor had bad spot on it so it needed changing.) The vibration persisted. Dealer took off my Yakima roof rack and put OEM shocks on the front and that did not fix it. Last time we test drove it we did so with chief tech and GM rep. Yup, vibration still there. The dealer says they have checked bearings, have put different wheels on the front, put vibration monitors on it and they still cannot figure out what the problem is. They really are trying to figure it out but still the vibration persists.
They have had the van on the lift several times and cannot see the vibration when the van is running on the lift at speed.

The dealer says that they also have a second Astro van with similar problem.

Any clues as to what else it could be? I suggested that they look at the pinion bearings in the rear.

Thanks. Bill

liberte1 · August 2007

We have a 2001 AWD Astro with about 90K with the same problem. We too have done everything (and spent a lot of money) but the problem is still there. Now a new problem has developed. When you apply the brakes SOMETIMES it seems to grab. Just had it back to the mechanic and we did an ABS test by getting up to 10-15 MPH and then slamming on the brakes. This recreated the brakes grabbing problems. So now we are being told that the vibration problem and the brake problem could be because the front wheel bearings need to be replaced. Can anyone give words of wisdom?

Many thanks!

fixitrod · August 2007

1995 Safari mileage 260000 has had brake switch replaced, all fuses OK, all bulbs replaced but the lights don't function as brake lights. Any suggestions appreciated

chris102 · August 2007

Joe from NY

I just started 2 weeks ago to get a similar whining comming from the front end of my 2000 GMC Safari. Doesn't appear to be a wheel bearing since the whining noise stays the same in a right or left turn. I have been using a thruway on/off ramp as my gage for that since you can do about 30-40MPH. Front and rear diff are full and the transfer case is full. Transmission was rebuilt less than 3000mi ago.

Did you find the source of the whining noise?

cbharobby · September 2007

91 4.3. Cold it will have hesitation, surging, then the check engine light will come on, and run better, but will have a slight bucking/surging at about 45 mph. On or off the gas a touch goes away. Just did a new rotor and cap (pretty well shot). Before, had a friend toss an OBD 1 on it. 042 code if I remember correctly. Electronic spark control I think it was. I'm leaning on getting a new ECM that comes off the distributer...the 3x4 inch or so flat thing mounted on the r/s behind the motor. Might try the junkyard for another, but does anyone know the year model that would interchange? I don't see much diff, but really don't know for sure..any help appreciated! Thanks, Robby

cbharobby · September 2007

Did a little searching, and came up with a possibilty. Code 42 "The EST signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module."....so where the heck do I go from here? Robby

mathusalum · September 2007

I have a 1994 Astro and I need to replace the Front Clip (Hood , Grill and fenders). Does anyone know if a Clip from the 1995 models up will fit? I like the 95 and up look over the 94 and down. I realize that there would be a little reworking of the radiator etc, but If i had a donor would it work?

Any input would be appreciated.

T

hanks!

fortee9er · September 2007

Hi,
I have a 1998 GMC Safari that started setting off code 175 (right bank is running rich) a while back. My mechanic thought that I needed to replace the O2 sensor. I replaced all 3 ($128 x 3 + sales tax) and it did not set codes for a few weeks. The code is back again and I don't trust my mechanic to do further diagnostic work. I also don't trust most repair shops or dealerships but I am afraid that I will have to break down and take it in. Can anyone here recommend a repair shop or dealership in Houston, TX.
Thank You

burt7 · September 2007

Hey,

I am having pretty much the same problems with my 92 safari awd. It will start and run fine but when you drive it stalls out. It then needs a bit of time to cool down.
Iv had a pressure test on the fuel pump, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, coil, ignition modual, distriutor and rotor, but nothing has helped. Does any one have any ideas that could point me in the right direction please???

fortee9er · September 2007

I took my Safari in to an independent shop and they scanned it and said there was nothing wrong that it would set the code and then remove them within a few minutes, that it was an intermitent problem. Your problem is different than mine, I have no stalling problem and you have an OBD I emissions system and I have an OBD II system which operate differently. You need to take it to someone that can provoke the symptons and then fix it.

fixitrod · September 2007

My 1995 with 260000 did that also and one thing to check out is the coolant temp sensor if yours had one. The reason I say this is because these vehicles being general motors also I find have "general parts" from the parts bin at build time so I sometiomes don't find the part on my vehicle.
Here is my problem also. No brake lights when peddle is pushed. I replaced the brake switch and still no brake lights. I read on another site about the "Multi-Function switch" needing to be replaced but what is confusing to me is the Haynes manual descibes replacing the "MultiFunction switch lever".Is this attached to the MF(this is about how I feel about this van at the moment and why it is for sale :mad: ) switch? This makes some sense because when I press the brakes with the blinker on the radio blinks but the lights don't blink on the driver side. Also the high mount(3rd) brake light goes out but when the right turn signal is selected the 3rd light come on. So some "multi functions are out of whack it seems.
This van was broken down and I was at teh end of my ropoe and paid a guy $200 and was told he "wired it up right". Its running but has no brake lights. I am about to go back to him but would like to know if anyone has any ideas about the MF switch; its location and removal/replacement?

astrovette · September 2007

I have a 2001 Chevy Astro 2wd w/ 55,300 miles

I recently had the rear end replaced due to a bad diff (as per mechanic). There was a constant noise coming from the rear when I accelerated. Now I'm getting a thumping sound from the rear when I release the brake after stopping. I've been back and forth w/ the mechanic as he does not seem to know what the problem is. First he thought and still thinks its the brakes not releasing properly. I think it may be a bad rear end from the salvage.

Can anyone provide guidance as it's getting riduculous going back and forth to the mechanic.

Thxs.

grinderbeatudo · September 2007

Actually, from the sounds of things, your rear brake isn't releasing. And although you didn't specify a side, I'll tell you I'm 98% sure it's the passenger side rear. And you may be able to get your mechanic to fix it, but it will probably come back. Not sure why, but believe me, after owning GM cars since 1984, I haven't really found any (other than the smaller cars cavalier, sunbird, etc.) that didn't have this problem. I have 2 1994 Astros and a 1995 Safari and guess what, they all have the same problem. Not your rear end though, not in my opinion.

astrovette · September 2007

Thanks for the feedback.

What would the mechanic need to do to fix this problem?

The issue I have is that I never had this problem before the rear was changed. Seems to me now that one things goes in the Astro everything else will start going. Is it worth the hassle and the money? I'm betting you've had the same other issues that I've been experiencing & reading about with the astro's: door locks not working, driver side windows getting stuck, abs light & brake light staying on, etc.....

rmccreary · September 2007

i am having the same problem. did you get yours fixed and what was it.
i replaced all most every thing on my van.
thanks email is mccreary1980@yahoo.com.
thanks for your time

astrovette · September 2007

If your speaking about the thumping problem, no because the mechanic still has not found what the problem is (after too many return visits back to him) and I'm trying to get some feedback as to how it can be fixed.

The problem with mine is that it doesn't happen automatically. The van needs to be driven awhile before it starts acting up, especially in bumper to bumper traffic or if I'm at a light and I release the brake.

Don't know if I want to keep investing in the vehicle if something else just keeps on going.

spike99 · September 2007

.

Yes. One can easily remove the "factory mush" rear suspension. One method is to install Air Bags (like the ride right system) and the other method is to install Timbrens. If wondering, Timbrens are like air bags without air inside them.

And if you want, you can also install Timbrens on the front - if you want to reduce suspension depth and ease of movement on its front. But installing Timbrens on the rear is a great first step.

With Timbrens, your van's unloaded ride comfort is NOT changed. However, your van's rear sag (from loaded weight of onboard cargo or trailer tonque weight) is removed. And the best part is, the more downward pressure on the Timbrens, the more the Timbrens work. If wondering, I have Timbrens (2,000 lbs verison) on the rear of my 2001 Safari van, and don't leave home without them. Seriously, best suspension improvement product I ever bought for my van. I'd buy it again - without hesitation. For more details, surf:

http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/application-pdfs/GMRASTB.pdf
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=af04.jpg&.src=ph-

Hope this helps...

.

astrovette · September 2007

Just picked up van Astro yesterday evening. Did some driving last night and this morning and so far have not felt or heard anything. Unfortunately, mechanic would not tell me what he did (I guess he felt intimidated as I had brought along a buddy who has worked on diffentials it the past for some opinions. Last time I'm going to him for any add'l work). I did feel the brake pedal with less tension.

Hopefully this is the end.

Thanks for your time and input.

astrovette · September 2007

So installing the Timbrens will make the thumpimg noise go away? Any idea what's causing it? Please advise how much you paid for them? Any idea what someone may charge to install them?

FYI, I reponded to rmccreary question with respect to the mechanic doing something else to try and fix the problem (see#1643)

Thanks for your time & input

spike99 · September 2007

.

Just noticed... My first post was a reply to "#179 of 1646 Beef-up suspension by drumcircle Aug 25, 2001 (4:29 pm)"

Regarding the noise on your van....

I don't know if the "thumpy noise" in your specific van is from bottoming out. If the rear of your van's suspension is bottoming out so hard that it's hitting its factory hard rubber "bump stops", then the answer is yes. 2,000 Timbrens SES softer rubber (that replaces the hard plastic bump stops) will eliminate that "bottom out" hard bump noise. I find 2,000 lbs rating is good upgrade for average passengers and rear cargo (in both Safari and Astro models). The 6,000 lbs Timbrens (for the Astro / Safari) are better for commercial vans. Cargo Vans that are loaded down with steel pipe and cement bags - where rear rider comfort doesn't really matter.

For pricing of Timbrens, may I suggest you do an internet search. Like any product, prices do vary. I can state the purchase price for Timbrens SES units is less then air bags.

As stated above, I have 2,000 lbs rated Timbren SES units on my 2001 Safari van and my buddy from Toronto has them on his 2003 Astro 2WD van. He pulls a Tent Trailer and I do lots of cargo hauling and utility trailer pulling. With Timbren SES units, NO more rear sag. Under load, the rear of the van is near level.

If wondering... Some folks install Air Bags (like Ride Right) system. They are more expensive then Timbren SES units but you can adjust them. However, if the air bag gets a leak (most do over time), you have to get it fixed. Timbrens is an "install it and leave it" product. Big what every product works best for you.

To determine if your van is bottoming out too much (as a short term test), remove its factory bump stops and try to duplicate that "thumpy noise". If no more noise, you found the cause of the "thumpy sound" on your van. Using a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench under 10 minutes, you can remove the factory bump stops yourself. Do remember to re-install these bump stops after your "noise investigation" test.

Hope this helps as well....

.

dlm1954 · October 2007

I have a 1997 ASTRO that keeps burning up fuel pumps and wondered if anyone had a similar problem with theirs. I know it has something to do with the tank ventilation,because you you don't keep fuel cap loose it won't run.I figure it something to do with the emission control system but not sure and wondered if anyone has encounted this same problem.Usually these vans have the same little idiosencrities.Any help would be appreciated.
DLM1

bizzbang · October 2007

I had a bump noise also; my problem was a loose shock mount. The bolt was loose and when I hit a bump the shock would bang against the frame. As for the beefing up of the suspension, I had the springs re-tensioned and a leaf added. Hope this helps.

bizzbang · October 2007

My 97 Astro has a starting problem. I replaced the plugs, cables, rotor, and cap. New battery also. The fuel pumps seams to work fine; it hums on startup for a few seconds and then stops. It sounds the same as it did for the last 10 years. When I step on the gas it does NOT hesitate. It runs smooth, fast and idles fine. After it has been running it starts fine until I leave it sitting for few hours then problem starts again. Tonight I changed the fuel filter, will test it in the AM. My last resort is the fuel pump, but everything points to the fact the pump is fine. Could it be the ignition coil, when it gets cold and damp?

spike99 · October 2007

.

My previous 1995 Safari van had simular "start / no-start" problems. When warm or hot, it would run great. Had the odd "burp and miss-fire" but overall, it ran great. In damp or extreme cold weather, it sometimes didn't start at all. Her starter would crank and crank but she would NOT fire up. I would place an electric heater under its hood, plug in its block heater and a few hours later, she would fire right up. Almost like water in the gas and it was freezing within its CARB or fuel delivery sytem. Very strange...

My local mechanic waited until dark time, started its engine, let idle and sprayed the inside of its engine with a garden hose. Nice fine spray from bottom of engine and worked his way upwards. When he water sprayed its spark plug wiring, she "lit up" like a Christmas tree. Unseen by one's eye, my van had a bad batch of spark plug wires. Little micro-cracks and under the right cold / damp weather conditions, it would not carry the needed electricity. Spark energy to its attached spark plug.

Perhaps doing the same "spray your engine with water at dark time" might determine if spark plug or some other wiring problem as well. Worked for my previous van.

Hope this helps...

.

wolverine2 · October 2007

I had lots of similar problems. Replaced fuel pump, plugs, wires etc. Went through several starter coils until I finially replaced with a high performance coil and have not had the problem for two years now.

The astro has a problem with the original coil where it arcs to the oil dip stick tube and causes all sort of electrical problems. The high performance coil is seal better and uses high temperature plastic for the shielding so it does not where out.

dlm1954 · October 2007

I seem to be having a problem with ventilation in the tank.I think it is creating so much vacuum from someting not opening in the vent lines until it burns up the pump.I have to leave the fuel cap off to get it to run,it has to be something in the emission control not opening a vent line properly I think.I just can't figure where to start looking for the right valve or switch that controls it.This makes about six fuel pumps in two years so something can't be working right.Any ideas!
dlm1

bodrey · October 2007

Hi All,

New to the forum. Just bought a '92 Safari and can't unlock the rear door. The mechanism itself inside the door seems to work fine but when I insert the key it won't turn at all. Now, the rod that you pull on to manually lock/unlock the door has been replaced with a coat hanger so at some point it stopped working for somebody and they rigged up this replacement. Still, it doesn't look like the lock itself has been changed. I was wondering if there are any Safari owners out there that have had the lock seize up or break on them. If I have to replace the lock what is the best solution?

dlm1954 · October 2007

I have all kinds of trouble with the side door on my 94 Astro but never had and with the back besides sticking and wd 40 usally breaks it right loose. The contacts for the side door electric locks get corroded all the time and have to be cleaned or they don't work at all.Stick the small tube that attaches to the can inside the lock and it will probally break it loose;you might have to let it soak overnight if it's gotten a lot of moisture to it.
dlm1954

dlm1954 · October 2007

It could be the pump relay on the fire wall above the blower motor,their pretty cheap about ten bucks.I believe a fuel pump for that 97 van runs 300.00 to 350.00 dollars so I would try the relay first;and that's installing it your self.
dlm1954

yukon252 · October 2007

i have a 2003 awd slt and for about a year now the abs light will come on and stay on sometimes for 10 minutes ,it seems that this happens when the van goes over a large bump does anybody had this with there van also .how does one get it fixed, the dealers don't seem to care.

bodrey · October 2007

I tried a WD-40 type of spray in the lock already and it didn't work. I'll try again because you can't fit a tube on this one. Perhaps not enough got in where it was needed. I don't have electric locks but I do have a different problem with the side door. You can't simply open the door by pulling on the handle. The door seems to get "stuck" at the back. You have to pull it out at the back and pull on the handle at the same time to get it to start sliding; annoying. I think it has a slight sag to it and this is keeping it from sliding smoothly but I don't know how I would go about fixing it.

spike99 · October 2007

.

Sounds like a bad ABS sensor on one of its front hubs. With a proper code reader, the exact hub can be confirmed under 2 minutes. However, to replace that ABS sensor, do expect to open your wallet. Those ABS sensors are expensive. My 2003 AWD van blew one ABS sensor. When the guy changed it, he said the other ABS sensor goes soon after. Approx 4 months later, its other ABS sensor blew.

The other problem could be its Braking computer. If the computer is gone, expect near $800 replacement bill. Most of the time, problems with its ABS is a front sensor. Which can be a $400 + taxes (per hub) replacement cost.

The only way to determine / "confirm the problem" is to get someone to read its internal computer code. re: Code Reader for your specific van.

For me, I pulled my 2001 AWD Safari van's ABS fuse, and drive it like a 60/70s vehicle. To me, my van never had better brakes.

Due what you think is best for you.

.

dlm1954 · October 2007

Those side door tracks get a lot of debries in them and some time you have to clean the tracks and put some white grease or silicone spray in them.I've had to do this to mine several times; the lubrication attracts dirt and every thing else that will stick to it.
dlm1954

don_courmier · November 2007

try pushing down on the door as you try and open it... thats how mine works on my 97

bizzbang · November 2007

bodrey · November 2007

I sprayed some Jig-a-loo Super Grease along the tracks and onto the mechanism and that did the trick! The door slides open all the way now without getting stuck.

GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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