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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    Well, the replacement of the fuel pressure regulator did not solve it. I purchased a new fuel pump which the dealer is installing today. If that does not fix it, I'm giving up. So far the dealer has run up an $800 bill chasing dead ends. I wish I could rewind, since it is a lot less costly for me to be chasing dead ends. He claims the fuel pump is not putting out enough pressure, and that the fuel pressure leaks out when the fuel pump stops. My experience has been that when a fuel pump dies, it is sudden, not this costly lingering agony. But I don't have a fuel pressure tool in my tool box. Maybe next time I will. More to follow.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I think he might have got you there, the fuel pump pressure should have been checked first thing, and it actually sounds like an open EGR valve which will probally be next on his list;and that to should have been checked first because a little piece of carbon in that EGR valve causes those Astros to run like crap and their notorius for it. The fuel pumps usally just go out they don't usally lose pressure they either work or they don't. I've only seen that happen very,very seldom. And loke you said they usally just go out they don't lose pressure, I think you might being getting played for parts you don't need and they will keep it up as long as possible. I would ask to see the low pressure reading, if it's there at all which I kind of don't believe. DLM1954
  • jonkezjonkez Member Posts: 3
    Ok Lads the real answer to the riddle of wiper troubles. This is always the root cause.
    The wiper motor Ground strap is located under the mounting leg near the hood opening at the windshield. This strap is used as the ground through the bolt and the body. Vibration will cause erosion of the metal and the strap causing bad grounding.
    Thus intermittent operation. The cure is to thread the unused hole on the upper right of the wiper motor and install a Tap bolt and soldered wire clips to a good ground on the firewall. No more wiper troubles!!!!
  • daleb618daleb618 Member Posts: 1
    I know this is a long time after this post. But I have just bought a 2000 Safari and am having thumping noise when I ease off.. Is there a way of checking brakes It does sound like it is on the passenger side.
    Any help would be appreciated
  • gstrandgstrand Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone has an idea what may be causing the random ticking noise I hear that seems to be coming from the area near the catalytic converter/starter motor. The noise is apparent in park, in drive at low speeds below 45, and at idle. It's a fairly rapid tick, anywhere from 3 times a second to maybe once every 2 seconds, but there is no pattern to it. This rig has 208,000 miles on it and starts and runs beautifully. It has been a bullet proof rig but this noise has me baffled.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I need to change the fuel filter on my van. Is there any way other than removing the center engine cover inside the van to relieve the fuel pressure in an '04 Astro?? I looked for the pressure relief valve, but it must in the same spot as my S-10. On the S-10 I can get to it no problem, but on the Astro that means it is buried back up in the engine bay. I really don't want to take the whole cover off inside the van for a 2 minute job. I also don't want to just start undoing the nuts on the fuel filter. I have this phobia of changing fuel filters (the last time I did it on my S-10 I came away with a nose, mouth and earful of gas) and want to make sure all the pressure is relieved from the system.
  • biffoonbiffoon Member Posts: 8
    There also was a service bulletin on the power connections for the motor which solder right to the circuit board, the solder cracks (cold solder joint). The circuit board is just under the black cover on the wiper motor. It happened to mine and I pulled out the weller and resoldered the pins and wau la, no more problems. :D
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    The relief valve is under the engine cover right where it goes into the plenum, and I believe that's the only place I've seen one on these ASTROS. If it's got the screw on fitting Iwould just loosen it and let it bleed off, but some of the newer ones have the quick connect fitting and you would probally get sprayed pretty good with them. DLM1
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    ya - I didn't want to take off the engine cover... So I think I'll just loosen the nuts on the filter VERY slowly and hope it bleeds off slowly without spraying me. I've had a fuel filter phobia ever since my S-10 sprayed me while changing the filter. Although the S-10 had the quick connect and the Astro has screw on fittings on both ends.
  • trailmaster660trailmaster660 Member Posts: 2
    One way to get the headlights to go off is to put just a very little pressure on the emergency brake peddle .
  • trailmaster660trailmaster660 Member Posts: 2
    What did you do to fix the window ? I love my 97 , but have the same problem with the window .
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    or you could just push the dome light swirch 4 or 5 times within 5 seconds... that turns off the DRL's and the auto-lights. At least on my '04. It also does the same on my '01 S-10 so I woulkd assume that this would be true for an Astro made in this century.
  • juntunendjuntunend Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find the problem. I am having teh same problem with a 2000 AWD Astro van
  • reyahkreyahk Member Posts: 4
    Hello ,I drove and park my van as usual and after 4 days was unable to start.The motor would turn over but not start.A mechanic advised me to change the distributor cap,rotor and I also bought new wires and plugs.After changing the dis cap and rotor the vehicle started first key,then he switched off to change the wires.... now after several tries vehicle started but with a missing or backfire sound.. wires was checked and yes correctly replaced... so now vehicle is starting but no acceleration power to move,so I was advised to have the distributor replaced with a new one which i did but with same result, vehicle starting but no power to move..... any idea?
  • AlohaAstroAlohaAstro Member Posts: 1
    Since it seemed to run well after dist cap & rotor, I would strongly suggest dbbl checking the wire specs, integrity of the install and the possibility of new defective wires. Perhaps reinstall the old ones temporarily.

    Good Luck
  • n5445n5445 Member Posts: 28
    I would check the fuel pressure. That is unless I'm missing half of the previous post.
    I dont know the reason why you started with the wires before fuel pressure.
  • morlogmorlog Member Posts: 2
    Check to see that when you put the new wires in you started from the right hole. It sounds like you may be one hole out.
  • reyahkreyahk Member Posts: 4
    MAke sure the wires are correctly replaced to the right cylinders. and the timing was properly done,if these things are done have a muffler person examine your catalic converter and exaust system....... good luck
  • csparrazzacsparrazza Member Posts: 3
    95 Astro. Ran fine but set for about 5 mo. Had to buy new battery, While jump starting gauges, lights went crazy. Would not start afterwards. Fuel pump replaced, fuel drained. new filter. Tune up new plugs (Bosch P4) took those out rep. with AC OEM. New fuel filter , Bosch wires, Dist cap/rotor. OBD1 giving some odd readings from evap canister system. Replaced ECM/EPROM. Fuel pressure at 55-60. Car starts fast idle a little rough, rep. MAP sensor. Problem only occurs when it reaches operating temp. Temp gauge working so sending unit is OK. Pulled out EGR. no sig carbon pin worked smoothly. I'm running out of Ideas, The nice man at the Dealer said bring it in for $110/HR and we will help you. LOL. I do have a good mechanic @ $40/HR. Honest! but he is stumped also. Seem like some sensor is cutting the fuel once it is warm and the TPS is opened. Could it be the TPS? But the OBD did not show a problem with it. I hate to just start replacing sensors. O2 sensors seem to be sensing and switching well within voltage range. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • jackyhjackyh Member Posts: 1
    I have had similar problems with my 2000 Safari. Had fuel pump replaced about a year ago, fuel filter and dist.cap and rotor and ignition coil and wires and tune up about six months ago. Everything seemed ok till a month ago, when I stalled in traffic. After that I have had trouble starting, now I will need a tow to go anywhere. Battery and alternator are fine, no engine codes. Starting stuff all works, and I can hear fuel pump come on but thats the end. I have spoken to 2 mechanics and their opinions are it could be: ignition module (mech no.1), mechanic no.2 said it is more likely wetness on the distributor. Try drying off the dist.cap and rotor and see it it works. It was very wet and cold when these problems happened. He said might need a new distributor as they get corroded. These are just ideas, I need to know what to do next as it is major bucks to even get to the engine and I am toying with the idea of trade in.
  • jferrantellijferrantelli Member Posts: 3
    Hey Guys how is it going. I could'nt resist in sticking my two cents in one this one.
    My 1998 AWD Astro did the same thing AFTER the fuel pump was replaced by a
    shop. I went berserk trying to find the problem. Stalling, towing to shop, etc.
    Here is the test ... Fill the van FULL of gas to the top. Drive it around. I guaranty
    you don't stall or sputter unitil you get under half a tank or less of fuel. Try this and let me know. My problem was the non-GM (aftermarket) pumps that you get from
    everywhere but the dealer, have a pickup (Not to be confused with the screen on the bottom), but an actual hose with a metal quarter sized round pickup that snaps into the channel where the screen is. Mine came loose and hovered half way up inside the pump body. When the van had less than a full tank especially on hills and turns it would sputter and stall because the quarter size pickup was sucking air instead of fuel. This literally drove me crazy for 8 months until I got disgusted and dropped the tank myself and took out the old pump and found the problem. I bought a new GM Pump and no more problems. You can reseat the pickup in the bottom of the pump but I don't guaranty it will stay seated..

    Good Luck and let me know. My van runs great no problems at all NOW !!!

    Joe
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    You might check your fuel pump realy on the firewall ab0ove the heater blower,or check fuel pump pressure when it stops. i'm seen these fuel pumps quit pumpimping after they warm up, I just replaced one on my daughters monte carlo last summer for the same problem.
    DLM1
  • csparrazzacsparrazza Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your replies so far I will look into some of your Ideas. I did end up getting an OBD code of 32 which is the EGR Valve. I have checked the ground and reference voltages to the valve they are fine, so I am going to replace the EGR valve. Got a good deal On Ebay new Delphi for $70. Waiting for it to arrive this week. Hopefully this will do it. I have also wondered about the Autozone fuel pump if it is working properly but the pressures are good. I will post the results for those interested.
    Craig S
  • reyahkreyahk Member Posts: 4
    I drive my GMC safari,but the gear shift display in the cluster keeps moving to something else eg if I 'm in park it display mabe 3 ,whenI'm in drive it display P then sometimes move to D,when u're N it shows P and so on,everything else on the cluster works fine any idea if it's a problem with some sensor or is it the cluster or ?
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    My current symptom is the van will start, rough idle, I can rev it some, but about 7 seconds later it will dive/stall.

    I need to know what the fuel pressure is at the back side of the TBI. I also wonder if the EGR passages can be blocked temporarily to see if the EGR is dumping hot gas in the intake at the wrong time?

    I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, IAC valve, computer, coolant sensor, cat. I've had the ignition control module tested, the EGR tested. The dealer replaced the fuel pump, but I wonder if it was done right. I replaced the injector pod with a rebuilt one.

    Aside from low fuel pressure or EGR malfunction, the only thing I can dream up as a possible cause is hot gas leaking through to the intake passages at the intake gasket. I've run a complete set of pressure tests and leak down tests to rule out the head gasket or burnt valves.
  • ClydesroseClydesrose Member Posts: 1
    Will the body parts from a 1988 Safari Van fit on to a 1987 Astro Van? Our 1988 was hit and we purchased it back from the insurance company. We purchased a 1987 Astro Van and would like to know if the body parts are interchangeable.

    Rosemary
  • reyahkreyahk Member Posts: 4
    everytime I shift from park to D or any other position the shift position display on the cluster will show something else eg if I move to R the display shows P ,if I move to N it shows 3 when I'm in D it shows R etc everything else on the cluster works fine any idea if it's a sensor or module or the actual cluster?
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    They should, these vans didn't change much from year to year, but you can go to a Astro parts site for body parts and check the part numbers to see what will fit.
    DLM1
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    If that's a electronic dash and I assume it is, the circuit board is probaly bad, in which case your talking a dealer item which means big bucks. If I were you I would live with it or go to a junk yard and pull one, it will save you a lot of money for a part that rarely goes bad.
    DLM1
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    I have an older 1993 Astro. On mine, the shift indicator is driven by a cable that clips to the steering column. When you shift, the cable is pulled or retracts. I know about this cable, because when I was replacing a turn indicator switch, which required the steering column to be lowered, I managed to snap my cable from its mount in the instrument cluster. Rather than fork out for a new instrument cluster, we have learned where the shift lever should be for 4, 3, etc.... Your cable might be binding on something, if they still use this method.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    I still have not found the problem that is causing my Astro to suddenly stall after 10 seconds of engine run. I did find a molten fuel relay, which I replaced yesterday. And a recently blown ignition fuse, which I replaced today. I plan to examine the electrical cables behind the battery this weekend, and do a fuel pressure test as well. Any ideas are welcome.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Now that I think about it your right thats controlled by a little piece of thread like material, I had the same problem a few years ago and thats how I fixed it, it it came undone I think I don't remember replacing the actual cable I think it just poped off for some reason.

    DLM1
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    The end of the cable has a clip which clips to the edge of the cylinder on the steering column which rotates with the shift lever. You can slide it left or right to get the right gear indication. You're right, the cable is as small as a thread.
  • WoodsmithWoodsmith Member Posts: 2
    Hello

    I need your honest professional opinion. On Fri. Jan. 23 I took my van into a local repair depot to get a coolant leak repaired. After they checked out the van they found a leak by the left rear part of the manifold. New one to me. Anyhow I was quoted $900.00 + CAN. and 6 hours of time to repair it. I OK'd the quote.

    Now early the next week, 6 hours seems to have been a miss quote, I was told by the service manager that the mechanic screwed things up so badly that they decided to replace my engine with a new one. How could that be??????

    Here is one of the many points I am trying to make. They still want to charge me the $900.00. (No, I don't have my van back yet.) They did not complete the work I was quoted on successfully or satisfactorily. They only screwed things up. Why should I still be charged for work that was not actually done irrespective of what was done to correct the problems they caused?

    Regards
    Glenn
  • csparrazzacsparrazza Member Posts: 3
    You were right ON! It was the Airtex fuel pump. I also replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi OEM and installed a new strainer, drained and washed out the gas tank. It was pretty gunky inside. Now it runs great. Will be returning the Airtex pump tomorrow. I am sure I will get a hassle. I did go online to look up complaints about Autozone parts esp. the fuel pumps, a very high return rate, apparently they don't care. Because the keep pushing that crap. I agree with others stick with GM OEM parts, you will save alot of money and frustration in the long run.

    Thanks, Craig S :)
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    Don't know how they screwed that one up so bad but it sounds like maybe they had a rookie do the job. If they're willing to replace the engine with a certified and warrentied rebuilt engine without trying to get any more money out of you, I would say pay the $900.00 you were willing to pay for the original work and call it good. There's no way that they're going to give you an apology and a replacement engine, and not charge you a dime. It's not worth going to court over. Good luck, hopefully they wont screw up the installation of the replacement engine.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I just seen your meesage and usaully that egr valve can be corrected by cleaning it and putting in a screened gasket which they now make for these Astros for this problem. I used to make my own and then they started marketing them, they work because that Astro and tose egr valve valves are constant problems. They also came out with a new computer prom cal to make the egr cycle faster so the carbon wouldn't stick but it never did anything for me but remove about five hundred bucks from my pocket.

    DLM1
  • marcustuttle2marcustuttle2 Member Posts: 2
    I need to know if there is a different fuse for a GMC Safari van. I have no need for the cigarette lighter however I have checked and the fuse appears to be good. I DO need the power ports and need to know what the title of the fuse location is in the underdash panel.. ANY help is great.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    What year is your Astro? If it is an older van, like pre 1994, and work has been done on it, then maybe when the mechanic put the doghouse back on, and the dash trim panel, which contains the glovebox and the cigarette lighter, he may have forgotten to connect the connector to the cigarette lighter. Two 7mm bolts hold the trim panel on the sides, and two 10mm nuts hold it fast at the bottom. Undo those, and the trim panel should swing out from the bottom, and then you can lift it up. It will be obvious if the connector is not connected. Plug it in, and reverse the procedure. If you have a newer Astro, I know nothing about how it goes together. Do they even have a doghouse?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I am assuming you have a 97 or newer (when they changed dash designs) and have the 2 power ports that are on the passenger side in addition to the cig lighter by the cupholder. I think they are connected to the same fuse and the same procedure for checking applies as stated above.

    If the fuse is good, I would venture to guess that in the past someone has pulled the dog house and the plug got pulled on them. I would start there and pull the cover (it isn't hard) and see if there is either a loose wire or a completely unplugged wire. If they are plugged in, I wouldn't know where to go from there except to check and see if the cig lighter is working and not the power ports or if both are out. If the cig works, but not the power ports, than they are on different lines. If both are out then there is a a fuse out somewhere (under the dash or under the hood). If you can't trace that down, you can always re-wire them to a different constant "hot" line or run a new fused constant hot line to them.
  • marcustuttle2marcustuttle2 Member Posts: 2
    THanks for your help guys! IT IS a 2001 and both the power ports and cig lighter do not work I will get to digging under the dash and see if I can sniff the rat!
  • lornlorn Member Posts: 2
    I have an 18' trailer I sometimes pull with various amounts of weight, and sometimes it bottoms out my baby.I want to raise it at least 4 inches, and beef it up front and rear. Any suggestions on where I can get mods to do this?
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    To remove factory "suspension" depth from your van, some folks install Air Bags and some folks install Timbrens. Air bags are pressurized air and by adjusting its inner lbs, one can adjust its ride comfort. Timbrens are like rubberized air bags without pressurized air inside them. Thus, no worry about possible air leak. If wondering, I have Timbren SES 2,000 lbs units on the rear of my 2001 Safari van. Installed them myself (within simple wrench) and its been good for life. Very pleased with this rear suspension improvement product. For more details on each, surf:
    http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
    http://www.fsip.com/riderite/products/rrinfo.shtml

    If wondering, Timbren or RideRite Air bag system will reduce "factory mush" depth for van's rear cargo and when connecting trailer's that cannot accept a WD system.

    Note: Timbrens or Air bags don't "lift" the rear of your van. When properly adjusted, their reduce (eliminate) rear sag. Especially when used with a WD system (with properly sized bars).

    When towing large / heavy trailers, one should always use a WD system (with properly sized bars) as well. Many say that WD bars should be 13%-15% of the trailer's "average loaded" weight. For example, a 4,000 lbs trailer should use a WD system with approx 560 lbs bars. For example: bars for 500-800 lbs range. If wondering, a WD system (like REESE WD Hitch @ http://assets.iqestores.com/product_img/highres/66006.jpg ) transfers the trailer's tonque weight across the entire Tow Vehicle (your van). Thus, better vehicle balance, better steering and reduction of rear sag. And less stress on your van's Hitch system as well.

    If wondering, both Timbrens (or Air Bags) and a WD system can be used together. When I towed my 19ft TT (4,200 lbs trailer), I used both Timbrens and WD system as well. Worked great - for my towing needs. For my needs, I'd buy the less expensive Timbren SES 2,000 lbs upgrade again.

    Hope this helps in your towing needs as well...

    .
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I would try the load leveler air shocks, all of the Astros I've seen have fiberglass leaf springs I believe. I knew a guy who pulled a 30 ft. cabin cruiser all over the United States and I believe he said he used the load leveler air shocks.I pull a bass boat with mine with no problem other than stopping so I started using the carbon metallic brakes pads like they use on race cars and that really helped that problem. I have a 94 Astro and it's started to sag in the rear with nothing on it and I'm going the cheapest route which is the load levelers. I've pulled this boat all through the mountains in tennesee with no problem those vortecs are hard to beat other than their inherant design flaws. DLM1
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Just to add a few more towing experience feedback....

    If my memory is correct, before 1995 vans used a fiberglass leaf spring system. Above 1994 vans (including my previous 1995 RWD Safari van) had a steel leaf spring system. They are 3 steel leafs in the rear of the van. Some folks add +1 leaf to the rear of their van. This method raises the rear of their van 1.5". When the rear goes up, the front goes down. When front goes down, the van's "front end" will need an alignment - to save its front tires and steering parts. In addition to this adjustment, a steel upgrade solution (like +1 leaf or additional helper leaf springs) creates an upward rebound effect. With upper rebound, one gets higher risk of "road hop", Especially when vehicle is empty. Thus, rear end fish tailing. To reduce rear end hop, one then installs higher quality shocks (in the rear). With cost of +1 leaf, wheel alignment and better shocks, one would be better off to buy / install Timbrens or Air bags. Timbrens are 2/3 the cost of air bags. When upgrading rear suspensions, its best to go with Rubber Based solutions. Thus, no upward rebound is added to factory build.

    Some folks use air "shocks". These are shocks that allow presurized air inside them (which also create less suspension depth) but they also have risk of future air leaks. And, do put too much stress on the van's factory shock mounts. In my previous Dodge Diplomat, it has wide rear tires with air shocks. I hit double set of railway tracks, its upper shock mount broke and "down came everything". Talk about a mess. From that point on, I took many experienced towing folks warning to heart. re: Avoid air shocks because they put too much stress on factory shock mounts. Go with Timbrens or Air bags instead. And if wondering, Timbrens are same price of air shocks. Especially since even a grade 8 kid can install Timbrens themselves.

    For my future van (replacing my current 2001 Safari), I'll be ordering Timbren SES units for it as well. Install them. leave them and they create no additional stress on factory shock mounts. And best of all, no increase in upper rebound (aka: Road Hop) effect.

    Hope this helps as well...

    .
  • flyer43flyer43 Member Posts: 1
    your problem is bad valve guide seals. allows oil to leak into combustion chanber while parked. thats why smoke at startup and not all the time.
  • coolis4mecoolis4me Member Posts: 1
    I've just been going through the same thing with my 2000 Astro. Remember, when the starter/solenoid clicks, that means that the rest of the starting electrical system(switch, relay, Pass key security, fuses, etc. ) is doing it's job; the 'signal' to start is being correctly sent to the solenoid. Then, if the engine turns over and doesn't start, then you'd look at things like the cap, rotor, coil, etc. With our problem, the only items that are in play are the battery, positive batt cable, negative batt cable, cable ends, solenoid, and starter. The small solenoid simply acts as a switch to allow the high current from the battery to turn the starter which turns over the engine. The cables used on our vans are an amazing size AWG #1 to handle the high current. Checking these cables for continuity or voltage transmission is not nearly as important as how well they handle the current; a small amount of corrosion, as an example, has quite an effect on this. So focus your search to these few items and you'll find your problem.
    -load test battery (also wiggle posts while testing to check for damage internally)
    -carefully check cable ends (both ends, pos and neg) taking them apart if nessesary looking for corrosion or damage (also wiggle these to see if they might be almost broken)
    -be sure that these cables are tightly fastened into place.
    -the starter will have to be checked out; probably best to remove it first (quite easy with so much room under there, and the starter being so small. 2 small wires, and 1 large cable) Take it to an auto parts store where they can check it for you. All GM starters have two parts; the solenoid which 1)acts as a switch for the big current 2)energizes the bendix with the starting gear, and the starter itself which is just a strong little motor.
    -check for corrosion between starter and engine block (causes a poor grnd or neg)

    In my case, the problem was with my positive batt cable, which I replaced. Believe it or not, it was corroded INSIDE and UNDER the insulation. The cable looked fine from the outside, but!! I changed it as a process of elimination because I'm not sure how to check it properly for it's high current carrying ability. Most of the time it's the positive cables that have corrosion.

    Here's hoping that you find your problem. Good luck!!
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I thught they told me all these Astros had fiberglass springs, but as usual you can't believe what anybody tell s you anymore' and your right the air bags are probaly mor e efficiant I just don't work on them much anymore because my health, I still love to turn a wrench but the body pretty well stops me anymore.My Son builds show cars and trucks and uses those air bags on everything, he's been trying to get me to let him put them on my 1968 FORD RANGER SHOTBED PICKUP for years, and I won't let him I like the street stance instead of the lowered look. It has a 428 SHELBY,CAM, MALLORY IGNITION, PERFORMER INTAKE, HEADERS, 950 DUEL LINE HOLLEY, EMRON PAINT. the whole nine yards I just can't see putting a four link and air bags under it to make it sit two inches off the ground.

    DLM1
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    Early 95 model and older of Astro/Safari vans had single fiberglass leaf system. Mid 1995 and newer years (like my 2001 van), their factory build was 3 leaf steel spring system. For early 1995 and older leaf spring conversion kits, surf: http://www.stengelbros.com/SteelReplacementSprings.htm

    For 1999 AWD, one can install +1 leaf (mid length leaf) in the rear. This firms up the rear's suspension but it also lifts the van's rear 1.5". Because the rear goes up, the front slightly goes down. To raise the front by .5" (for better looking & balanced stance), one can adjust the front torsion bars. And to reduce factory mush "depth" in the front, one can also install Timbrens in the front. Wish I had spare dollars to install Timbrens in the front of my 2001 AWD's front. Perhaps one day...

    For 1999 RWD, one can install +1 leaf (mide length leaf) in the rear. This firms up the rear's suspension but is also lifts the van's rear 1.5" Because the rear goes up, the front goes down. To reduce factory mush "depth" in the front, one can install Timbren SES units in the front. Or, install HD coil springs in the front - for better looking & balanced stance.

    For more details about Timbren units, surf middle page of: http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/chev-gmc.htm

    Some folks pick Air Bag upgrades, some folks pick Timbren upgrades, some folks pick +1 leaf upgrades and some folks pick a combination of each solution. Each product has its own pros/cons/cost and "ease of use".

    Hope this helps as well...

    .
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I have an '04 Astro with a 101K miles 2WD. When I pull to a stop at an intersection or stoplight, sometimes the tranny seems to stick in 3rd and when I start going again I can feel it downshift into 1st. It seems odd that it would do that. It has happened a couple of times before, although not frequently. What could be causing this? Fluid level is normal. No other indicators that I can think of. It shifts fairly normally, although a little rough sometimes, but I think that is typical of this transmission (4L60E).
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