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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    Noticed that Edmunds now has pricing available on the 2005 model. Interesting since Chevrolet doesn't even have 2005 info on their website (that I can see). I do see that GM started building the 2005 Astro/Safari on 6/14. Anyone read of any changes?
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Just aqquired a 2004 safari. Talked to another owner yesterday and he claimed he was getting 26 MPG on another 2004 both RWDs.
      I was kinda skeptic about the figure
    Has anyone got anything over say 22-23 MPG? even if holding the speed down to say 55mph
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    I would like to purchase an after market trailering package. do you know where to purchase?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I have a 97 RWD with 52,000 miles on it. It has 3.73 gears instead of the standard 3.42 and 21 mpg is just about it, 17 in easy town driving. However I do get 14.5 towing a 30 Ft. Award travel trailer. This is with the tires pressured to 40 psig, lubegard in the transmission, 5/30 mobil 1 in the engine, Mobil synthetic in the differential, and that well known air filter that gives superior HP and mileage. One time with a 25 mph or so tail wind and at 60 to 65 mph it did break 23 mpg. Had a 94 company driver with the 165 HP 4.3 and it did run 23 to 24 mpg at 70 to 75 mph. But it had a 3.32 differential ratio.

    A trailering tow package is just a receiver and wiring. The wiring is easy access inside the rear panels, except for the brake controller. The GM package does not include a transmission oil cooler, nor does GM offer an aux. oil cooler for this van. I installed and aux. transmission oil cooler, not the Hayden brand, but one with a better mounting setup.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Where is this located on the 2004 please. Also I would be interested in purchasing a transmission oil cooler that Coonhound mentioned above
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    How do you go about swapping the transmision fluid for the lubeguard. Surely you don't just drain the pan and refill. Also where can I purchase the xmission cooler that you speak of. Lastly how much does that 30ft award weigh?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    The fuel filter is underneath just ahead of the long fuel tank on the driver side. The transmission oil cooler I have is a Long model LDP4454 rated for 18,000 GVW and 13,000 BTU. Mfg in Burlington, Ontario. The specs. say approved for all transmissions including, and they list several like 4T60E, 4L80E, etc. but did not specifically list the 4L60E as in the Astro. Long is specified original equipment oil cooler for 9 out of 10 new vehicle installations. I purchased at a local transmission parts supply house. Ask Long at Longmfg.com for your local dealer. I guess it is approved for me to say this!

    Buy the small cement mixing tub at your local home center, Home Depot or??? to to catch the oil. Loosen all the bolts leaving 2 or 3 in place front and rear. Loosen the rear bolts so as to let the pan drop as you tap it with a rubber mallet and or pry with a wide bit screwdriver. And let that mess run out the rear into the container. Best to measure how much was removed so as to replace the same amount.

    I happened to use Havolene replacement as Sam's sells it, and I like the brand. The Lube Gard, the way the mfg. spells it, was purchased at O'Reilly, but NAPA also handles it. It is a 10 Oz. container listed for Dexron III. I always bite the bullet and purchase the GM oil filter. Being careful, use a small screwdriver and bend the lip on the filter neck seal and pry it out. You may have to drive the screwdriver up beside it to crunch it more for removal. Drive the new seal in with the wrench end of a socket.
    The Lube Gard is also sold and used by most transmission repair shops.

    The Award travel trailer is built and sold in Dunnville Ontario. Ours is rated at 3850 Lbs. but the new unit is rated at 4540 Lbs. Dry weight. Pull up awardrv.com and the first display is like our unit. Ours has a bass wood frame, but the new units are aluminum frame. They are relatively expensive and are built for easy tow and basically are for two people to travel in comfort. But will accomodate 2 or 3 children. For me it's the best out there. But others are making some progress in a reasonable quality design.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks so very much for all the info. One final question, ...do you just mix the lubeguard with the Dextron III. I had thought from your orevious post that it was some kind of replacement for the xmission fluid.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Coonhound my transmission holds 5. quarts for a change. how much lubeguard should I add. Should I subtract an equal amount of transmission fluid?
    Thank You
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    The directions and quantity are on the label. It is only 10 Oz. but yes you should consider the addition and not overfill the transmission. Overfill is worse than under fill.
  • carlrjrcarlrjr Member Posts: 35
    On long trips it's not unusual for me to average 22-25 mpg with our '97 2wd Astro full of people and stuff while averaging about 60-75 mph. It has over 100,000 miles on it and is probably due for new plugs, so 26 mpg from a newer Astro sounds believable to me.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Took our 2004 on a long trip today gassed up three times got 20, 22, 21 and I was only driving 60 MPH. I have talked to quite a few owner and a lot of them swear that they get 25-27 mpg. Something has caused tho because Chevy Quotes 16-21 as the expected mileage and the usually highball the figures.
       Speaking of gas, the book says to use at least 87 octane and I noticed all the stations around here ( New Mexico) have 86 octane as the lowest cost fuel. Think that would hurt the engine?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's probably adjusted for altitude - I think 85 octane is common in Colorado for regular grade gas.

    The higher the altitude above sea level, the lower the octane requirement. Chevron

    Looks like you're at 9,000 feet? <wow> Your van would probably cruise on 50 octane if there was such a thing!

    Steve, Host
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I was beginning to think there is something wrong with my 97 at 21 mpg highway. Took it and had the tires balanced, was some outer scuffing. I had
    the alignment checked and toe in adjusted. With Mobil 1 5W/30, Mobil synthetic in Differential, K&N filter, new specified spark plugs, new thermostat, 44 psig in tires, Marvel Mystery oil in fuel, Lube Gard in the transmission, egr valve cleaned, throttle body cleaned, summer unblended fuel, and a 25 mph tail wind, 60 mpg, 23 mpg was the best I can obtain. Also the air was only used for brief periods. This is with the 3.73 gears which gives the 97 model 5500 Lb. tow rating. The 94 Co. driver with 3.23 gears would run 23 to 24 mpg with medium load of tools and junk. This was with the 165 HP engine.

    But, fuel mileage is difficult to check on these vehicles because the nozzle always cuts off when it will still hold from 5 to 6 more gallons. (I didn't say this), I sometimes turn the nozzle upside down and top off completely at each fill when checking mileage. And also try and have the right rear lower so as to assure a full tank.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    After a 500 mile trip with my 2004 Safari, I must say I can see why the likes of Coonhound and others love the "box".
       I was equally impressed with the vehicle with the exception on one thing.....The harness of the front suspension. On real smooth road surfaces, it was fine on others it left a lot. It is like a rumbling vibration, throbbing rough ride.
       wondering if better shocks and tires would make a difference?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    As far as the suspension harshness, this is not transmitted to the passengers. The highway ride is pretty good, especially with normal load. Now I have KYB monomax front shocks and Monroe load levelers on the rear of my 97 rwd. Why? because I either tow the travel trailer or haul some load. And, the OEM shocks on the 97 did not have any down restraint action, nor were they gas charged. There was no perceptible difference in ride harshness with the addition of the rear load levelers. But the KYB high pressure monomax did result in more road feel. But did stop the pitching on undulating road surface, especially when towing with an equalizer hitch. Also is a lot more stable in wind and rain. I have Toyo 800 Ultra tires. supposed to be about the best with the highest UTOG rating of any tire,I believe 800, and has a 100,000 mile tread wear warranty. But not the best ride and seem to get out of balance between rotations and balancing at 5000 to 6000 miles. For ride, I like the BFG advantage+ sold exclusively at Sams club??. This is a 1 ply sidewall tire but with the standard load rating. And BFG is a Michelin owned Co.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    February 2003 California Air Resources Board required that GM extend the warranty on the SCPI injection system to 10 years/200,000 miles. With second failure they are to replace SCPI with the MFI injection system. Maybe I should move to California.

    I had one failure at 27,000 miles and had some check engine light occurrences since. Now I know more. For 2004 models GM added a dual stage fuel pressure regulator, and apparently more computer and injector tweaks. GM claims the computer is the best there is. The new injectors are electronically controlled instead of fuel pressure controlled and reportedly have less leakage. A cam chain tensioner was added, and the valve train has been tweaked with rollers to reduce friction and improve fuel mileage.

    And New Mexico fuel has 10% ethanol to help reduce the fuel mileage by 1 or 2 mpg. But I was hoping for a report of 24 or 25 mpg on a 2004 model so as to be back to where they were 10 years ago.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Coonhound,

      where did you get all this good info on the 2004 model.
      
    Are you sure about the 10% ethanol for New Mexico?
    I read somewhere GM didn't like ethanol in the 4.3l engine.

    BTW Thanks for all you help.
    Getting ready to drop the transmission for filter change and lubeguard as soon as the rain lets up here in Cloudcroft
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Coonhound, You made this satement in a previous post...

    But the KYB high pressure monomax did result in more road feel. But did stop the pitching on undulating road surface, especially when towing with an equalizer hitch. Also is a lot more stable in wind and rain.

    Did you mean did "not" stop the pitching........?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I have been searching for that GM site with the info. on the 4.3, but have not found it again. The roller hydraulic lifters was enough to make me salivate and want a 2004, plus all the other good injection and power control module. I even called a dealer this morning that had an 04 advertised, but it turned out to be a four wheel drive.

    I know that on the main route I40 you only get 86 octane with 10% ethanol. Ethanol is OK, or is approved, It's the methanol that is not to be used.

    The road in particular for a pitching ride was from Albuquerque, never can spell that, to El Paso. With original shocks I would get about three bouncy pitches, with the KYB Monomax just one and it's over. These are heavy duty shocks and are not for everyone, but I like the stability and a more assured feeling of being in control. The recirculating ball steering and the high profile needed some assist for towing and cross winds.

    You should not expect good fuel mileage being up on that mountain. I have worked with a retired man that moved to Cloudcroft and built a house.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Coonhound,
      Your comment on the shocks makes up my mind and will order them. BTW the trip I took was from Albuquerque toward El Paso!!

    I changed the transmission filter today and added that lubeguard.
    Hello all,
         When I pushed up on the filter it seemed to just snap in place ok. Later when I was discarding the box the filter came in, I noticed a round plastic fitting. There were no instructions in the box for this. Was it somehow supposed to be installed on the filter tube before I pushed it up in place?
        Is your 97 like this?

    John
    BTW Cloudcroft is a wonderful place to live. PS. we dont have any tornados here either...
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    message 701 answers my question. I should have gone back a reread it because it explains exactly what I should have done.
    When I pulled on the filter it had a little resistance but then came down. I took the new one and inserted the of the filter in place and pushed up on it. It had resistance and them popped in and it felt secure.
    The question now is. can the old lip that was supposedly in place be re-used? Do you think the old one could have fallen out when I pulled on the filter element.?
    Would you just bite the bullet and drop the pan to be sure?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I obtained the shocks from Shock Warehouse in Fl.
    GM may have changed to a gas charged shock on the 04. Suggest that you disconnect one an collapse it to see if it has any restraint. You also my want a more compliant shock than the monomax. Possibly the standard KYB or Bilstien.

    On a previous pose I mentioned removing the filter seal. But you are OK as your van isn't that old or have high mileage that would cause the seal to dry out and harden. The seal was always been mounted in a metal sleeve. If it is in plastic there must be a cost reduction.

    I thought a bit about towing up the mountain to Cloudcroft, but didn't do it. Because I wanted to get to Mexico.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Never mind I re-read message 701. should have done that before I started the job, but did see the seal until too late. The way you talk it would be hard to get out. It seemed like it took some effort to get the new filter in and then it sort of just popped in place and seemed secure. Would it hurt to use the old seal? What would happen if the seal had fallen out when I pulled on the filter.?
    I sure screwed up today.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    No way would you pull the seal out with the filter. It is a shrink fit and tight. There are seal pullers made for removal, but I just use a screw driver being careful not to scratch the surface and collapse the seal and pull it out with a pair of pliers or needle nose pliers. Use the square end of a socket and tap the new seal back in place. And it does have a stop lip on it. I used the existing seal the first change. I felt of it with my pinkie and it was pliable with no rough edge so I used the existing seal. This is the supply to the oil pump and all the transmission. If it didn't seal you would know it with shifting problems and probably a the computer would set a code.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    I debated and debated about pulling the pan back down and checking the filter. I finally gave in a did it for peace of mind. Mainly because when I was tightening up the pan bolts, I thought I heard something tinny drop into the bottom of the pan.
    The filter was up in place of course and there was nothing in the pan. Decided to leave the old seal in place in lieu of the newness of the vehicle. Sure wish I had remembered or re-read your earlier message about that seal.
       On another thought, why do you think they would make two different fram filter kits for the unit. One is for a thin pan and the other for the thicker pan.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    Has anyone installed running boards on one. Mine came with 16 inch tires and I have some senior friends who have trouble stepping in the back.
    Any suggestions appreciated. Would consider used ones if anyone has some to sell. Seems they are hard to mount on Astros/Safaris
  • mjn_twinmjn_twin Member Posts: 3
    I'm thinking about buying a 1986 Chevy Astro CL minivan, but need to now specific trailering/towing info. All I got out of the manual was a GVWR of 5302 and the GAWR's. I'm specifically interested in how big of a camper I could tow, which I don't think the above gives me. Can't find any info on the web for that old of a model year. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • tkwtkw Member Posts: 29
    I had the same problem. The cause of it is the tube's proximity to the manifold. It gets so brittle that it disintegrate in pieces. If it happen again, you may want to replace & re-route the entire tube away from the engine. It is very inexpensive. And you don't have to remove the dog house to do this. Your dog will thank me for that. See my previous post #908.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I could be wrong but I understand that the tow rating is the same for the 86 as the later years. But, with 165 HP vs 190 HP for later models the go is going to be limited. From 95 to 99 the tow ratings are. With 3.23 gears 4500 lbs, 3.42 5000 lbs. 3.73 5500 lbs. Models 99 and above are rated 100 lbs less in each ratio. Although I don't think the 3.23 is available anymore. 4WD have 500 lbs less tow rating.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    Just made a 500 mile trip with 6 adults and luggage in the 97 Astro. At 75 MPH full air conditioner, B12 chemtool, and Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel, 18 mpg.

    The driver side power window had the stop and go problem. Replaced the switch and circuit board assy. This was not he problem and had to replace the window motor.
  • bnet504bnet504 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 1993 Astro LT and the drivers power window stopped working about a year ago, it still goes down all the way but when i try to close the window it goes up a little then stops, so it usually takes a few minutes for the window to go up all the way. the power door locks also stopped working about a year ago, now sometimes they just lock and unlock by themselves. and about last month the passenger power window stopped working completely. does anyone know what the problem is?
  • riccd2001riccd2001 Member Posts: 12
    Your power window motor might need to be replaced. Same goes for the PDL switches. But check FIRST for corroded/broken wires in the door harness for PW & PDLs.

    Since your van is over ten years old, your problems are typical of the broken wire problem - wires in your door boots are in the process of breaking, or already gone. Usually driver side first then passenger side depending on door usage.

    To repair you have to access wire loom through side kick panels and door boot to recover some wire slack (there is lots BTW) and repair the broken ones. Takes a bit of time but can be done with a few household tools. Good Luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I don't know about the locks but the window switch sounds bad - your symptoms are similar to Quest owners, and switches for them tend to die young.

    But since the locks are out of whack too maybe there's a short in the wiring somewhere.

    Steve, Host
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    Sounds like the famous Siemens power window motor problem. The motor I removed from my 97 was full of grease from the gear box. The commutator and brushes were completely covered with grease. The motor is $50.00 or so at our famous Auto Zone. The door locks, I would go with a defective switch. The window motor is mounted with 4 pop rivets that are drilled out. The new motor comes with screws and nuts but you can only get a finger behind the mounting plate to hold one of the nuts. The other 3 I used 1/2" long sheet metal screws. I think they are about a #6. After removing the arm rest etc. the door panel is removed by lifting up, at least it is on the 97. But it takes two men and a boy to hold the panel in at all mtg. points when re- installing. I purchased a hand full of the nylon mountings at the dealer which made installation easier.
    I don't know when they started the ill advised nuisance auto down and the associated circuit board failure. I hate auto down!. But I had fixed several friends GM windows by replacing the board and switches. But my own Astro I wasted the cost of the board as it was the motor that would run in short spurts and progressively got worse.
  • john29john29 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2004 safari and the OEM tires are bridgestone Dueler H/T 864. The noise is awful on some streets. I would like to install Bridgestone R-265 Hiway Rib tires because I installed them on my truck and they are really quite.
       Has anyone used the R-265 on astro/safari before?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Slow Sales Kill GM Vans

    Steve, Host
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    About time since GM has done nothing to improve them since introduction 20 years ago.
         Who does GM think they are fooling? My 1999 "Chevy" Tracker was a re-badged piece of Suzuki junk. The "Chevy" Aveo is even cheaper Daewoo junk. My 1980 real Chevy van was a reliable vehicle but the 2 Geo Metro's were cheap in every sense of the word. My current 2001 Blazer LT is okay but not as roomy nor as comfortable as a comparable Ford Explorer.
         Chevy pickups are no real competition with Ford. Toyota vehicles have been reliable but all current Toyota vehicles are too ugly for me to buy another Toyota.
         I also don't plan to buy another GM vehicle.
  • hsandyhsandy Member Posts: 4
    I picked up a 2004 RWD Astro LS w/9600 miles on it last Saturday at Carmax for $15,600. Wow, a lot of vehicle for the money, considering what new cars cost these days. I do some bicycle touring trips and wanted something I could carry a few bikes in plus other general hauling chores and the Astro fit the bill for a very reasonable price. The Carfax report says this one was originally titled by a major car rental location in Florida then was sold at auction. So I guess it may have gotten some rough handling as a rental but you wouldn't know it, and I have a good bit of GM warranty left and maybe I will get the extended warranty after that. We'll see. I have enjoyed reading all the informative posts in this forum.

    H
  • glebeauxglebeaux Member Posts: 1
    I have 210850 miles on a 1995 Safari. Just had major work done, (intake manifold plus trimmings, tranny flush and filter, fuel system flush, etc). Near the end of 400 mile round trip, lost oil pressure, engine overheated. Got off highway after about two miles. Shop says oil pump is gone, and found metal shavings in oil pan. Recommended new engine. Figured I could at least install new pump, pickup tube/screen and shaft myself, but pickup tube/screen does not easily fit into pump. Does it need to be pressed on? Not ready to junk this vechile yet.

     

    Thanks. glebeaux
  • dave_ddave_d Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking for a 2002-2003 Astro, and can't find one near TrueMarketValue (TMV) as listed by Edmunds.com. As a point of reference, I just finished buying a 2002 Prism, and ended up getting a (and finding several other) Certified Used vehicle for thousands of dollars less than TMV.

     

    Any opinions on whether the Astro TMV is too low (and I should bite the bullet and pay more than TMV), or whether 4 vans is too small of a sample (and I should hold out and wait for a much better deal). The van doesen't have to be purchased for another few months. Thanks in advance.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    I would definitely not over-pay for an Asstro.

    Maybe sellers think they are more valuable now that GM has finally decided to stop producing these things
  • dave_ddave_d Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, 97xpresso. As opposed to my normal rush buying to replace a vehicle that just died and isn't worth repairing, it's nice to have some time to seek out a better deal.

     

    And I thought the reason the Prisms were so cheap was beause *they* were out of production. Go figure.
  • desertplacesdesertplaces Member Posts: 1
    I have been trying to find a way to disable the Daytime running lights (DRL) on my Chevy Astro, I have a good deal of extra electronics running ,ie. computer, phone and video equipment and while in city traffic it just drains the battery down, Is there a simple and safe way to disable them.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Although Edmunds TMV is THE best, most reliable, accessible to the public source of pricing data, many argue here in the Town Hall that TMV is inaccurate.

         Some claim it is too high for DC minivans while others claim it too low for the Odyssey and Sienna. Most newspaper ads have DC minivans selling for significantly above TMV. One reliable Honda salesman writes that the market itself is the accurate indicator of value.

         Apparently the 2002-2003 Astro is really worth more than TMV.
  • dave_ddave_d Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, hansienna. The jury is still out on how accurate TMV is on the Astro, as none of the ones I was considering has sold yet. I probably won't find out for sure until I go out and talk to a couple of salesman to find out how much it would really take to make a deal.
  • dadoftaydadoftay Member Posts: 136
    Just push the interior light switch (round button located next to the headlight switch) four times and they will go to "manual mode". Only downside is you have to do this every time you turn the van off.
  • dadoftaydadoftay Member Posts: 136
    I was having my oil changed the other day at my dealer and he has 2 '04s on the lot. One was Pewter (most popular color, I think, in GA) with all the goodies and 9K on the clock. Sticker was 15,999. I made a joke and told him I wanted to upset the soccer Mom crowd and I'd give him 13,000 out the door. He actually went and asked his manager and they wanted to close the deal. The salesman told me outside the office that no one but companies buy these vans anymore due to their lack of family friendly features, but the Astros haul people and are cheap to maintain. Both of his used vans were turned in by a Holiday Inn right around the corner for new models. I'm thinking TMV is going to be dependant on where the dealer is located and who understands what these vans are good for.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    GM has made NO improvements in the Astro/Safari since introduction as a 1985 model.

        Did they feel their design was as "timeless" as the VW Beetle that Dr. Porsche designed to be the "people's car"?

        Now GM is destroying their rapport with Chevy owners by placing the Chevy label on Daewoo junk made in Korea. I will not buy another GM vehicle and GM will continue to lose market share to more innovative companies (all other automotive manufacturers).
  • dadoftaydadoftay Member Posts: 136
    No offense hansienna but GM couldn't care less about you not buying their "junk". Trust me, I tried the same tactic and was pretty much assured that GM would live. The Korea rebadge is going to make them money and all the people over here buying trucks, SUVs and even cars are going to keep the General around awhile. Besides, there have been plenty of changes over the years (brakes, engines, dash layout, emissions). If you notice there are no additions of family friendly features. I had the Safari summed up best by a service mechanic one time:

    What other vehicle can you name that you can put 8 people in, load their stuff, tow their toys and do it without question? The Safari is simply a work truck in van clothing. GM never changed it because they probably couldn't keep up with Toyota or Honda (Chrysler for that matter), but if you look at service vehicles, remember I said SERVICE VEHICLES, there isn't another vehicle that can do what the Safari does. Besides, what kind of wierdo (besides me) buys a cargo van for personal use? With the removal of the Safari from its fleet, GM can focus on what makes them tons of money- trucks and SUVs. At least the Corvette is still kinda cool?!
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