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You mentioned in your post that you will either be looking at a 325Ci or a 330Ci (depending on how much money you get for your car). Then you should look at the 325Ci and not get your hopes up. Don't get me wrong, I wish you luck. The used car market is terrrible now. Trying to sell the car yourself makes it even worse that the dealers/Audi are in the Certified Pre Owned (read USED) market. Sure your car may be in good shape, but someone can buy the car Audi Assured with less miles and an extended powertrain warranty. Plus you seem to be really passionate about your car (most of us in Town Hall are). That hurts you when you walk into the dealership because you think that your particular car is the best example of all the used 1997 Used A4 1.8Ts out there. I'm not trying to flame you by any means. Just passing along some of the knowledge I've learned by lurking in the "Any Questions FOr a Car Dealer" & "Inconsiderate Buyer" Threads.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
So insist that your dealer do the first scheduled maintenance service at 6 months, regardless of how many miles you have, because according to AoA, this has to be done in order to keep from voiding your warranty. I thought it was ridiculous but I didn't want to take the chance.
--'rocco
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
the a4 is a quantum leap better than the merc.
the ride and handling are much better, it'quieter
and the quality of build seems about equal.
it's not as quick off the line as the merc--but from what i've been reading ,it will do better when it loosens up.
i'm no dragster but i would'nt consider the 1.8t with tip--too sluggish.
the console is hard against your right leg--other owners must know what i mean. i've stuck dr scholls pads there but that doesnt look too cool.also, the cup holders dont work very well.
any other suggestions? the optional bose system was definitely worth the money when hearing cd's.
i didnt like the looks of the stock 16" wheels so i replaced them with mock spoke ones from tire rack.
let me know if anyone wants to make me an offer for the stock ones.
all in all--i am very pleased with my purchase--no buyers remorse so far.
hope the rest of you like yours as well
What would the advantage be over the 4-door?
if that's an advantage. it will be a different car. smaller and ligher (presumably). people buy the honda accord coupe over the honda accord sedan, some do i mean. same deal here. some prefer coupes.
sorry if mentioning the accord offended anyone.
TODAY, I'm driving to work, internal temp set to 68, Stereo on, lights on, and I'm cruising at about 20MPH. Since my music was loud, I didnt hear my car stall. I noticed that pushing on the gas wasnt making me go anywhere. I looked at my front display and the battery light was on. My gears were flashing. I tried to start it up but it didn't work. I waited a second or two and got the car up and running again.
Does anyone know why this would happen? I read in the audiworld archives about Idle Control Valves needing to be replaced. Someone also mentioned plugging in a VAG tool to get the "timings" straightened out. Anyone here, have a second opinion on these probable causes?
I'm just throwing out a guess. If not, I'd take it somewhere that can give you more than a speculative answer. Either a dealer, or a mechanic that specializes in European imports and has the Audi logo on his business cards.
I test drove a 1.8T Quattro Tiptronic, and the car seemed sporty, confident, luxurious, and smooth. It was also very quiet, and the small turning circle was awesome - check it out. The salesman I was with wanted to demonstrate the car's freeway passing abilities, etc., and the car cornered very well, and had no problems accelerating smoothly and quickly, too. If you are used to driving Ferarris and just have to drag race away from stop lights, then you may want the larger engine, but if you are a normal driver, then the 1.8T is in no way slow, as some people have said. I've driven the car, so I know.
I also drove the 528i a long time ago (2000), and it was very nice, but for me, I preferred the Audi. The A4 competes with the 3-Series BMW, so it costs less than the 5-Series does. I felt that you get more for the money with the A4, and that it was not any less of a nice car when compared with the 5, but if your dream car is the 5 and you can get it, you might as well. I again, preferred the A4 though.
Quattro is great - it's a really good feature to have and a confidence builder. I don't know of any reliability problems with the Quattro cars, and I have not heard of warranties not covering the Quattros as long as the Frontrack cars. Tiptronic is a really good transmission, that's why Porsche uses it. I actually like automatics, if manuals are your thing, get the manual. Tip is fun though.
Well, between both the 5-Series that you want and the A4 you are considering, I think that you would be happy with either one. You'll get more features for less money with the Audi (like front and rear heated seats) if you order them, but since the 5 is your dream car, you won't be truly satisfied unless the A4 can replace it in that role. Have fun, and report back to us!
A performance chip for the 1.8T costs about $500 in most cases, and boosts power by about 40 hp without sacrificing gas mileage in highway cruising.
A performance chip in the 1.8T with an aftermarket exhaust system boosts power even more, and gives BETTER gas mileage on the highway.
So...spend a little more money in aftermarket, and have a car with comparable horsepower that is lighter.
There are people who are most comfortable with the perceived prestige of having a V6, and I understand the the Audi V6 is wonderfully smooth. I've found, though, that my 1.8T is smooth and gave good power before the chip, and fabulous power after.
I'm thinking of buying a new chip for my car. But I'm also thinking of buying the 2002 A4. Plus my car is leased so I want to put it up for sale. I've already found out the buyout for my car so I can guesstimate what I would sell it for; over the residual cost of course.
Thanks in advance.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Anyhow, if I were you, I would take it easy on the engine (around 3k rpm) but have periodic engine speeds up to say, 5k to give the engine a more polished break-in. I did that to my 01 A4 1.8T and quite honestly, I wanted to keep it at around 3k rpm but couldn't resist the urge to lay the foot on the pedal.
Oh one more thing, I don't know where you live, but here in Chicago I would not rev the engine fast or high until the oil for the turbo is warm. I know the 02 A4 doesn't have that indicator but as a general guideline, I wouldn't rev the engine too quickly in the first 10 min. On the same token, don't rev it fast and take it easy in the last 10 min of your journey to allow the turbo to cool down. Some people put a turbo timer on it and let it sit with the fan running to cool the engine down, but with wind blowing at 30-40mph while you are driving it cools the turbo down much faster than just the fan doing all the work.
Congrats and NEVER FOLLOW (the new Audi slogan).
Billy
Brian
I kinda disagree with Billy about break-in ...this is a subject that has been debated many times on many boards by many people. IMHO, modern engines do not need the break-in that engines did decades ago. Years ago, manufacturers had extensive break-in rules and it was usually considered imperative that those rules be followed in order to have engine longevity. Today's tolerances are much closer and many believe that most new engines no longer need the long list of break-in requirements. Audi/VW no longer has an rpm restriction during the first 1,000 miles as some manufacturers still recommend. Subaru, for instance, still recommends that the rpm be kept below 4,000 during the first 1,000 miles except in an emergency situation. You'll notice that in the Audi owner's manual, no rpm restiction is stated. IMO, trying to keep the rpm below 3,000 during the first 1,000 miles is ridiculous and unnecessary. Bradd's reference was similar to what both my dealer's sales and service department told me ...not to be afraid to rev it right up to the red-line during the break-in period. I was hesitant in doing that but did take it slightly above 5,000 rpm on a regular basis during the first 1,000 miles. So, Kenneth, have fun with your new A4 and just follow the common sense rules during the first 1,000 miles: no full throttle acceleration, no jack rabbit starts and stops, and no prolonged periods of constant road or engine speed (i.e. no cruise control on the highway).
I do agree with Billy when he says not to "stress" the engine before the engine oil is at the normal operating temperature. This is not only for turbo engines but for all engines. That's why I really enjoy having our oil temperature gauge. I've cried many times at the realization that Audi has done away with that gauge in the new A4. :-(
--'rocco
I went with APR for just about all my modifications. The car looks stock all the way around, and makes about 217hp with the larger diameter exhaust. The exhaust tips are bigger than stock, but only a car enthusiast would notice; they're not obnoxious.
Which chip is best? That's the Ginger vs. MaryAnne question. Chocolate vs. Vanilla. Betty vs. Veronica.
About break-in, well Rocco, I can't really say who's right or wrong about break-in. To me, I'll take it easy on any new things, and that's how I like to keep the rpm under 3k and rev it up there maybe once a week or something. To be honest, I didn't put a big arrow at the 3k mark and restrict myself not to go over it.....it's more like a mental thing.
Speaking of which, I just spent a week in a rental Mitsubishi Diamante. Not bad for a big car like it. Enough power (not a LOT, but decent) and PLENTY of room. It's interesting when I jumped back into the A4 i realize the A4 is so agile and nimble. :>
Billy
The first one said that I can let it redline out of the parking lot when I take delivery and keep on going. The second one said that while Audi actually breaks the engine in prior to placing into a new car during production and thus claims that there are no resrictions on how the car is driven from day 1, he recommended that I take it easy and not rev it too high duing the first 500 miles.
While I have no reason not to believe the service guys in my area, It wanted the opinions of guys in my shoes who actually own the vehicle. So thanks again.
Ken
I'm satisfied with the price I was able to get--about 5.5% over invoice. But what do you think, will the price drop by the time it arrives in May or June? Also on other message boards (Toyota, Infinity) I keep reading about dealers ordering the wrong options or colors or the car never arrives after 3 months. I'm trying to keep the faith with Audi--but it's my first one!
Overall they have been pretty helpful and open with the status of my vehicle. I have yet to see and take delivery of my new Audi so I can't comment yet on the accuracy of their updates, but I have no reason not to trust them to this point.
Good luck and congrats! You must be as excited as I am.
First month, no calling from a dealer.
Second month, I called the dealer, he gave me informations which 'When my car will be made in factory.' not exact day, just which week. For example, 'second week of March'. Also, he gave me what did I order(order number, options, color, etc..)
Third month, the dealer called me.
"Your car is making this week."
About two weeks before I got a car, called me again. "Your car in in US now"
And I got final call.
The dealer told me that they have some kind of computer access only for dealer, so they can find those informations(which I said before).
So, if you want make sure for your order, just call them and ask(date and options).
Waiting was soooooo hard.
Just check, and make sure that your order is correct. And then, forget it until you got a car.
I was able to get 6% over invoice (which they call fleet price). I wonder if prices will go down this summer which would want me to to renegotiate. I did hear from a friend of mine who works at the Audi plant that the 2003 model will begin production on July 1st with delivery times of 6 weeks (in Germany).
Has anyone else been able to get a lower price?
Lucas
And Lucas--how do you expect to be able to renegotiate? Didn't you sign a purchase order for a given price?
I also want to add that I wouldn't have moved forward as certainly with my negotiations, let alone something as intangible and uncertain as an order if it hadn't been for the input I received during the month of February from people who had already purchased--thanks especially to scirocco and bluetrane and A4Vince and 10K_.
I will move to NJ, and I already got tint on my cars, and somebody told me window tinting is illegal, so I cannot pass inspection.
Is it true?
When I made my deposit for my order I was told that it would be 100% refundable if I decided, up to the day of delivery, not to take the car. My salesman also told me that if prices are lower at the time nobody could make me pay more than any guy coming in from the street. I have bought 3 cars from this dealership over the last 10 years, and so far they have always held up their promises. Lets hope this time will be the same.
I assume every dealer works the same, at least on the deposit and it being refundable?!
http://www.sun-gard.com/pdf/state_laws.pdf
It's accurate, at least it shows the right info for IL and WI.
Billy
Because it was late in the week, I have not heard back from the other driver's insurance company yet. The bumper is a plastic (fiberglass) type material. In cases like this, where it is not cracked, is the bumper just repaired or totally replaced. My preference would be a new OEM bumper and that is what I plan to demand, but knowing that insurance companies are in for the money I am expecting a fight. Anyone have any tips for me? My local dealer recommended a nearby dealership that does body work.... claims that they refer all their business to them and that they do a good job.... think it is wise to trust the dealer?
Thanks
I also think you can trust your dealer for the recommendation as they probably use this repair shop for work on new cars that come in with some needed work.
This doesn't mean they don't like the new A4, it only means that they don't have any reliability data and haven't tested it yet.
I don't think C.R. ever gives a newly rededesigned car a check mark - in fact I recall them specifically recommending against buying a car in its first model year.
Except that, for example, the Nissan Altima is recommended even though it's been redesigned. Consumer Reports says on page 60 of its 2002 Cars issue: "A 2002 redesign transformed the Altima into a more competitiive player in the family-sedan class." CR even rates the Altima's reliability as half of a red circle! How can they do this if the car has been redesigned and there is no history of reliability? According to Consumer Reports, the Audi A4 has not had reliability problems. From 1997 to 2001,says CR, the Audi A4 has been rated average overall in reliability.
Audi had a bad experience with the A6 and the TT when they came out, and the original 1996 A4 had problems too. I think they want to wait for a year or so on the new A4.
You can follow the reliability stories of the A4 at www.audiworld.com. So far, it seems to be limited to minor things like gas guages and windshield washers, and at least one failed CVT (transmission). They are prone to squeeks and rattles as well as less than satisfactory shifting when cold.
So my suggestion is, get a quote from BOTH your and the other party's insurance companies (trust me, they'll quote different things), and go to the body shop your dealership suggests and get THEIR quote. Instead of waiting for my insurance company to go after the other party's insurance company (plus they'll only pay whatever it is after your deductible, until they get the total amount back from the other guy's ins company, then you get your deductible), I went after the other guy's insurance company myself. That way I can get one check (amount with deductible) to the body shop, although later on the body shop said they need more to fix the damages.....but they call the other guy's ins company themselves and get the cost difference.
Good luck!
Billy
The dealer told me he placed my order on the day I agreed to a price by email. That was February 25. I did the whole transaction via email, thanks to someone's advice who hasn't been around lately --Scirocco-- It has been a very pleasant experience so far. Anyone who is beginning to think about pricing and dealing--I can't recommend enough the importance of doing your research. Also--go back a year to a comparable month or quarter and see what people had to say about their experiences at that time. There was quite a frenzy on this site this time last year--all the way through the summer.
Quill--I noticed the same positive red check in the reliability chart at the back of Consumer Reports for Audi A4 with a 1.8T engine. I've been assuming that the redesign for 2002 has mainly to do with the 3.0 model or the CVT transmission. I didn't think about a redesigned body causing squeaks. I'm trying to keep my nervousness at bay.
Also I dug up my brochure for the 2001 A4 because I was also looking to buy last summer but was unable to locate a 1.8T Avant with a manual transmission anywhere on the west coast, so decided to wait. Can those of you with 2001s, explain what you like so much more about your interior--the missing oil temp. gauge, I understand--what else seems "chintzy" about the 2002 interior? Thanks!
The question is, has anyone else experienced this problem with the 2002 A4 3.0? Was it fixable? Should I take it back to the dealer, and if I do, can they calibrate it or something? Any suggestions?
My other complaint involves the trip computer. It's very nice in that it has two separate trip computers -- one for the most recent trip that resets to zeroes automatically after two hours, and one cumulative that has to be reset manually. Great. Problem is, it's missing the "trip odometer" feature. It's got the usual avg.mpg, avg.speed, time.traveled, miles.to.zero, etc., but no "miles.traveled". Instead, to get miles traveled, one has to use the separate, hokey, old-fashioned "trip odometer" that's next to the main odometer. Just one trip odometer -- it's not tied into the trip computer(s) in any way.
This seems to me to be exceptionally stupid, since number of miles traveled should be one of the main functions of a trip computer! And it's easily calculatable using the time.traveled and average.mph values, but what, they expect me to whip out my calculator?!?!?
My question is, is this "fixable"? If I had designed the A4, I would have made the trip computer either upgradable or "fixable" -- either by dropping in a new chip, or a software update done by the dealer. Anybody know if this can be "fixed" to include miles.traveled in both trip computers?
Thanks,
Ralph
Anyways, me dealer told me that it takes two weeks from leaving the factory in Germany to get to Houston. After that, the car gets on a truck after about a day or two in Houston and gets to my dealer after another day or two.
Hope that this helps.