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Comments
Billy
This would be my choice.
Billy
and I got a phone call offering an extension to 100k /2 more years at $2,000!
If figure a warranty should cost less than a horrific repair bill so I passed. If anyone knows of a more reasonable deal let me know ('98 A4Q
Avant/tip-85k).
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
DL
The 1.8 T is a great 4 cylinder engine and is pure driving fun. As I have mentioned in other posts, IMHO, the only negatives I could come up with were the bog on the bottom end until the turbo kicks in (approx 3200rpm) and the fact that the engine turns about 4000 rpm on the highway doing 80 and can be a little bit noisy. The 3.0 has more bottom end torque off the line, is smother and abit more usable horsepower (170vs220). Remember that that the 3.0 will cost a few more pennies. Now if you can find a 3.0 6 speed, I believe that you get the best of both worlds. Remember, there is no substitute for cubic inches or in this case, liters. hope this helps.
Jaydoll. i thought max torque on the turbo kicked in at a very low 1850 rpm ? at least thats whats allways been advertised.
DL
Billy
Just curious, what does that UW stand for? Univ of WI? Just curious.
Billy
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I remember you mentioning (either here or on the A6 board) that you wouldn't buy a car in Manhattan because of the arrogance of the dealerships here. They do have a captive market after all. I've never bought a car here, (I usually get my cars either in Jersey or Rockalnd County where I'm from) but I have had one very pleasant service experience with Zumbach. I found their labor prices (and prices for service in general) very high ($120 per hour for labor), they definitely did me well. I have a 2000 Saab 9-3. Right around the 20,000 mile mark, I got off the FDR at 132 & Park Ave (I used to live on the east side), swerved around a cab and steered my car directly into the mother of all pot holes. I always service my car in Jersey, but didn't want to drive that far as my steering was off and the car was making weird clunking noises. I was given an appointment at Zumbach within 2 days for this problem and for the 20,000 mile service. The service rep was willing to work with me (I slipped him a $20) and covered a cracked strut, broken thrust bearing, and an alignment. I had to eat the cost of a new wheel and the 20,000 mile service (obviously). My car was ready as promised and they had the parts in STOCK.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
"That is to say, unless you're wielding bags of cash, they don't wanna know ya." Sad, but true!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
DL
Billy
Anyone had any experience with how far below MSRP (don't know the invoice pricing yet) these are going for? I assume as they are hot off the press they will be in demand and discounted very little from sticker? (I'm in North Carolina for what its worth). Would take a good deal on an 02 I guess but I like the real leather over the leatherette.
Thanks in advance
MDH
Another question, I was looking into buying a 2003 A4 Quattro 3.0l 6 spd but now I saw at edmunds that at the end of 2003, an A4 coupe will eb available as a 2004 model. The coupe looks so much better! I am pretty sure now that I am going to wait for the coupe, even if it takes a year. I am just wondering, does anyone have any updated information on when the coupe will be available?
Billy, yea i think its a cheap package. Strange the 3er went from fiberglass trim to aluminum and now the A4 is doing the reverse. I guess both suppliers will stay in business.
DL
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
DL
The thought about the 03 on order and getting exactly what you want has merit.
Markcincinnati, 1.75% seems like an outlandishly low financing rate unless part of some special deal--is that available through Audi or something?
With the lease you can pay for the use of the car, not the ownership -- and when the lease is coming near term, if you really like the car you can then buy it and theoretically at least know what you are buying.
The problem with these high buck European cars is that they depreciate so fast and cost so much to repair out of warranty. It might be cheaper to live with them and not marry them -- to underscore the point.
Also if you make the full payment for the car as if it was financed, it is possible to actually come out ahead (the current state of the economy notwithstanding).
MSRP $30,000:
Lease the car for 36 months $524 a month
Buy the car for 36 months $885 a month
Difference $361 x 36 = $12,996
Residual 45% = $13,500
The difference is close if you assume that the $12,996 was put under your pillow.
If you invested $361 a month for 36 months and you could get any "appreciation" at all, you would at the end of 36 months have more than $13,500 in cash or its equivalent and every day it would still grow. If you bought the car it would be worth less every day and be more difficult to convert to cash -- and if you loved the 36 month old car you could probably buy it for $13,500 (which you would "have in the bank") and pocket the amount you had gained in appreciation (even in a money market fund at today's paltry rates, you would still come out ahead -- only those who pay cash will beat this scenario -- generally speaking).
DL
And, BTW, I took the numbers in my made up example from Audis web site -- the spirit, if not the actual example, was the point of view I was portraying.
And the best residual TODAY on a new A4 @ 36 months is:
A4 residual 51% 3.0
A4 residual 55% 1.8T
BTW, putting any money down on the lease defeats the purpose of leasing. If you put the money that you would put down on the car into an investment, then added to it the differential between the cost of the lease per month and the cost to finance per month, and used 51% as the residual, the numbers IMHO, still favor leasing over buying, but not over paying cash.
Buying a [Audi] car "on time" -- and you can't buy an Audi at 0% -- is a "false economy," generally. As they say, why buy the cow when all you want is the milk?
Finally, the best way to buy or lease or acquire or "drive" the car -- is the way YOU think is the best not what someone else (like me) thinks has merit. I have purchased one Audi a 1987 5000CS turbo quattro -- in cash. All the others I have leased -- my basis for doing so was/is a boss I once had (he was a CPA) who said rent what depreciates, buy what appreciates. My current CPA, who works for me, says the same thing.
To each his/her own.
Right now I can get a 2002 Explorer EB for 0.9% lease, that is an incredible deal. on the swing side, the residual is only 35% so you still have to make up the difference. that residual also ensures a hell of a deal if the EB is good to me!
For a number of reasons I am currently considering leasing a new A4. I was at the dealer in San Francisco last Saturday and they quoted me a 3 yr residual of 58% on a 2002 A4 1.8tq 5-speed, so I would have to say that 55% is not the best residual as of today (unless they have changed in the last 5 days, may have).
Then again, the "best" residual in lowering your monthly payments is the "worst" residual if you for whatever reason want or need to buy the car at the end (which I personally think is usually a silly thing to do).
Of course, this is all just my personal opinion. As you said, to each his own.
Also I agree with your post in that "better" is in the eye of the beholder.