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My comments pertaining to the 2006's had to do with "the date -- for an AoA (USA/North America, i.e.) customer to ORDER the next model year's version.
For example -- and this is probably incorrect in detail, but correct in spirit -- while 2005 Audis will be manufactured in May 2005, it is probably not possible to ORDER a 2005 in May. New car orders taken after a certain date are for the next model year.
Based on a vatiety of factors some that I know some that I can only speculate, it may be possible to order a 2006 A4 as early as March 2005, or you may have to wait until May 2005 to assure that your order will enter the queue for the '06 MY.
I order ALL my Audis (except one or two) -- I have done this for years (since 1977). It is true that the time from order to delivery has decreased over the years, but, generally speaking, the range from order to delivery is between 2 to 5 months. I have heard that, based on the time of the month that you order and the queue already in progress that 10 weeks is generally very do-able.
I probably will "go for" a 2006 version of whatever I buy -- but I could be swayed to an '05 by price, I can be bribed to buy a 2005 model, that is.
If the 2005.5 A4's are on sale in February, it is likely that those customers ordering them would have done so in November and December (possibly even October). Conversely, as the 2006 A4's will probably begin being screwed together in July, an order date of April -- for example -- might be required to get exactly what you want.
M
I am not claiming that this is a hard, cold fact -- I would more likely be willing to characterize it as a substantiated rumor. The A6, so says the memo, will be "on sale" October 29th -- but this version, in the US at least, will not have the air suspension. From calendar year 2005 forward, the A6's can be built with the optional air suspension -- I suspect that is why the February date for that too.
I saw the same memo regarding the 2003 allroads in early 2002 -- and it had some factual mis-statements (although we did not know it at the time.) The memo for the allroad, for example, claimed that heated seats would be "front seat only" for MY 2003. I own a 2003 allroad and it indeed has front and rear seat heaters.
The memo, to further underscore that these memos have been known to be subject to change, also claimed that a 3rd row seat would remain for MY 2003 in the allroad -- there MAY be some '03's that have the third seat. But the third row seat was dropped for the 2003 MY.
Over time, having had as many Audis as I have had, I have found that running changes and date of order will have an effect on the actual car delivered. I "custom" ordered -- in 1994 -- an Audi S6. I ordered this S6 in "May or June" of 1994 -- the car that came in had the 1994 S4 alloy wheels and a standard A6 2.8 leather wrapped steering wheel. The car did not match the pictures -- and I really wanted the S6 for 1995 sport steering wheel. Since my car was built immediately after the changeover from 1994 S4's to 1995 S6's they used a "last year's" set of wheels and steering wheel.
I didn't read the fine print -- which stated that all the representations in the brochure may not be available at the time of production. I "suffered" early adopter syndrome.
The point of all this is to state that the Audi dealer does get "order guides" months and months in advance -- and they are "subject to revision."
It "makes sense" -- to me -- that Audi is pushing to get all of its cars to share the corporate grill. Moreover, the current body style A4 was brought out in 2001 (it was the car I drove in Austria in January 2001 for the Audi driver training school and it was the car that was coming down the assembly line in Ingolstadt). It is, therefore, possibly due for a new front grill -- meanwhile Audi is readying the next A4, which will probably incorporate the MMI and perhaps the 3.2FSI engine, etc.
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I have no reason to believe that the dealership will be unwilling to negotiate on any car you acquire from them. I have always paid less than MSRP (cap cost on the lease) on all my Audis.
Now, a given salesperson may "suggest" or "imply" that "if you buy today," the price is better than if you order one and take delivery 11 weeks from now -- but I personally have NOT found that to be the case.
On the other hand, if you could get a great discount -- a seemingly very generous discount -- on "one on the lot" well that may sway your decision. I have not seen this happen however.
I have dealt with the same dealership since 1977 and the same salesperson since 1987 -- this may, in part, go some distance in explaining my situation and my experience and may, therefore, have no bearing on how you are treated. I suspect if the MSRP is known at the time of ordering and the money factor du jour is OK with you, that you might be able to negotiate in good faith.
Understand, however, if the money factor today is 1.9% (implied interest) and the money factor when you pick up the car is either 1.5% or 2.2% that the deal could change and the dealer, in that case, would not be guilty of changing the rules. The dealer has to go with the rate AT THE TIME the deal is written up. Likewise if there is a price increase the dealer may have no choice but to pass it on to you or allow it to eat into his profit or, I suppose, split it with you.
The US dollar vs Euro and/or inflation, deflation or some other "tion" may also come into play.
Generally speaking, my experience is that I get "X"% off the MSRP as it happens. In the 80's with inflation running higher than now, the price often changed (up). Inflation is not so much of an issue now, but currency valuation is.
Fa la la la life goes on.
i just recently heard about the upcoming 2005 A4, is it really gonna have the new grille? honestly i dont really like the new grill design, but Im really interested in the MMI system, I tried BMWs I-drive and i find it useless, as this system only "cleans" the center console from extra buttons and switches, but operating the i-drive itself is a chore. so im expecting better results with MMI
I also heard BMWs gonna have a new 3-series to challenge the upcoming A4, is it true? I might consider it as long as it doesnt come with the lame i-drive lol
and btw does anyone have a link to websites with spyphotos of the upcoming A4 and bmw 3series? plz let me know if you do. thanks
I'm seriously thinking about getting a 2000 A4 1.8T 5spd. The A4s that I'm looking at are all $20000 CAD, have 75-80000 kms and have the 2 yr Audi extended warranty to 160.000kms (100K miles).
My main concern (and I have been reading this whole thread for the last few days) is that around the 130000kms (80K miles) mark my 2 yr warranty will run out.
What items/costs should I expect at that point?
What particular things should I look out for on a 2000 A4 1.8T w/a manual tranny?
Thank you for your feedback!
Dinu
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
BMW 330xi (autotrans)
Audi3.0 q (autotrans, plus wheels, std suspension)
Merc C320 (autotrans, AWD, std suspension)
Audi S4 (6spd manual)
The BMW of this group was the preferred car -- by my wife.
Note: my wife had specific goals in mind -- AWD, stick shift, decent performance and,if possible, a lease payment (for 36 months, w/no down) beginning with a $5 or, hopefully a $4.
We took so many autotrans out due to the fact that BMW doesn't stock stick shifts, period. Audi generally has both, both usually 5 to 1 in favor of autos due to "market demand" and Mercedes doesn't even offer the C320 AWD in anything other than autotrans. As nice as the S4 was -- and it was AWESOME -- the lease payment would have been a number beginning with a $6 and possibly, based on equipment a $7.
My wife -- the owner of about 1/2 of the almost 30 Audis we have owned since 1977 -- was, to say the least, very unimpressed with the std suspension A4 3.0 quattro with Tiptronic. The BMW 330xi Steptronic was sooooo much, er, "sportier." Note 2: My wife currently drives a 2003 Audi TT 225HP 6spd manual coupe (her third TT).
Never say never, I suggested she drive a sport suspension equipped, 6spd manual Audi A4 1.8T quattro before she gave up on Audi (she still has some 7 months, so obviously this was not an urgent matter).
Saturday, we were given the keys to a 2004 Audi A4 "Ultra Sport" 1.8T with several nice options -- stickered at $36K ($9K less than the BMW, similarly equipped -- but remember the BMW did have the "big 6 engine" so this was hardly going to be an apples to apples comparison, as we had thought the A4 3.0 would be when compared with the 330xi BMW).
What a different the stick and the ultra sport option made. True, the 1.8T doesn't quite have the grunt of the 330xi (and for comparison we did go back and drive a Rear Wheel Drive 330i stick, which we figured would be close enough to the feel of the xi with stick for our purposes).
My wife exclaimed: "where is the extra $10,000 in the BMW? . . .I guess the 3.0 engine in the BMW does pull more strongly, but this 1.8T has plenty of low end power (she was speaking of torque, which as you know comes on early in the 1.8T) and the handling is every bit as good as the 330i 'performance package' BMW we just drove."
She finished the test drive by saying based on both price qualified and price independent measures, her favorite is the A4 1.8T 6spd manual quattro w/Ultra Sport! The fact that it is so much less money than both the BMW and the Mercedes (the Mercedes would crank all the way to $48K with a few choice options) is just a huge plus.
The difference that the Ultra sport package makes (or is it the change to a stick?) is amazing. The phrase that my wife uses to describe her TT's handling is "it goes like a snake in a rat hole!"
With regard to the A4 1.8T Ultra Sport -- she remarked it is almost up to the TT's standards subjectively, and it has a real back seat and can carry her briefcase plus her golf clubs with ease (also a goal).
For some reason, after 3 TT's in a row, the need for space has overcome the need for absolute handling. Of course I often wonder, how many times do you actually need to drive in a rat hole?
If you are considering an A4, I urge you to find a 1.8T stick shift quattro with ultra sport -- save your money, you may find you don't NEED the 3.0 -- especially the 3.0 with Tip, which, no offense, is a bone (which is worse than being a dog!) for the money.
The 1.8T engine is a jewel of an engine. You should feel how much peppier it is without the extra weight of an AWD system. My last car was a Nissan Maxima, so I was afraid to take a step back in power by chosing a frontrack A4 1.8T. Boy was I wrong...the 1.8T is truly the little engine that could.
PS- A co-worker just got an A4 1.8T, and their test drive included the new Volvo S40 T5. According to my co-worker, the more powerful Volvo felt sluggish vs. the Audi. Surprised?...I was.
Brian
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Sometimes I forget to turn the volume down before switching from satellite to CD and the sound comes blaring out.
I can't explain what causes the difference, but I would bet it has something to do with all three inputs coming from vastly difference sources -- a direct line connection (CD), satellite (XM), and radio frequencies (AM-FM).
There are many reasons -- I don't know them all, I am sure.
Part of the reason that AM is so much louder (again typically) is that it is compressed. In plain english this means that the dynamic range (this is difference between the softest and loudest sounds) is, oh, about 1 db. Whispers and yells, therefore are at the same relative volume level. This is is part because AM is amplitude modulated -- it just makes broadcast sense, especially since much of AM is "talk" radio to compress the sound to limit the dynamic range. The apparent loudness never changes. Noise thresholds of AM are other reasons this is done. And, yes, the fact that AM receivers -- not necessarily transmitters -- are not generally very "selective" and lack, often, alternate channel rejection capabilities and, frankly, often have fairly low fidelity all enter into the mix.
FM, on the other hand, has or has become the broadcast high fidelity medium, offering supposedly a high fidelity choice to AM -- the tuners in FM are often better contain better circuitry that can improve fideility, reduce background noise, etc, etc etc. Some FM stations have, like AM, taken to compressing their signals so that the softest sounds are amplified and the loudest sounds are de-amplified -- compressing the dynamic range of FM. Even classical stations do this -- and that is in part a "defense mechanism" -- you see these stations know that their signals will be heard in cars. Road noise, wind noise, just noise in general intrudes -- so the broadcaster cranks up the softparts and cranks down the loudparts. Then GALA circuitry in the radios themselves (Graduated Automatic Level Adjustment) does it again cranking up the amplification of your car radio as the car goes faster (and the interior noise level increases) -- again the intent is to remove virtually all differentiation between the soft passages of whatever you are listening to and the loud passages.
If you listen to music in the car and the same music on a high quality home system, sometimes the same music will sound entirely different due to the fact that the FM station will compress the dynamic range to nearly nil, while a good home system will "open up" the sound so that there is a huge difference between a whisper and a bomb blast.
XM, I would hope, will permit a greater dynamic range AND a greater frequecy response. Typically the frequency response of a recording may be as broad as 20Hz to 20,000Hz. FM, for example, is supposed to render 50Hz to 15,000Hz -- cutting off the low gut stirring bass and the sizzling highs of a cymbal. FM is, typically, close to a CD, epsecially if the CD's recorded contents don't have much material below 50Hz or above 15kHz -- pop and rock music, well at least some older pop and rock music fit this definition. As better electronics and better recordings came along -- AND as CD's came along, it became more likely that there would be much greater levels of bass (particularly) and somewhat greater levels of treble (above 15kHz) than had been generally practical with vinyl records. CD's especially DDD CD's (the entire process from recording to playback is in the Digital domain, that is) can have rumbling lows and soaring highs without the concern of an analog device being "unfaithful" to the original intent. We are in need of higher fidelity than FM can provide, generally speaking, and here's hoping that sat radio will provide that.
In sum, if a specific medium is "loud" or "soft" when compared or contrasted with another one, it is OFTEN, not always, but often, due to the lack of dynamic range in the louder medium.
a4 1.8t ultra sports package 29k
G35 rwd 6 speed leather sunroof 30k
acura Tsx navigation 28k
Which one would you choose, if you already owned an Audi, but they are giving you the most for your trade?
The #1 priority for our new car was comfort. My wife's back just does not do well in cars for more than an hour or two. # 2 priority was a good combo of performance and economy. #3 was we did not want to spend more than $30K.
We looked at the Accord, Passat, Camry, Mazda 6 & 3, and Acura TSX. My wife had no doubt that the 12 way adjustable power seat of the A4 suited her best -- actually the 4 way lumbar support was the key. She also liked the A4 exterior & interior best. My only reservation was the the reliability issue, which seems to improving after the 2002 ignition coil mess.
To keep the cost under $30K, We had to special order 1.8T CTV with the interior package (power/leather seats & sunroof) as the only option.
We have now had our A4 for 5 months & 5,4000 miles & are more than satisfied! On a recent 1,800 mile trip & up to 6 hours in the saddle my wife (nor I) never had a twinge of discomfort. I was able to eek out 38 mpg at slightly above legal speeds.
The 1.8T / CVT is not a race car, but power is more than ample, making for no sweat passing. We love the smoothness of the CVT and its excellent gas mileage (using 89 octane). There is a slight turbo lag from a stop, but so far that has been a non-issue. Actually you will only notice this if you mash the pedal from a dead stop which is not our driving style. The stock suspension handles very nicely with no ride harshness. The stock sound system is fine for our tastes.
It is far too soon to rate this car's long term reliability, but there are no flaws appearing so far. This car has more than meet our criteria & expectations; it has definitely has the feel of a winner in our opinion!
The cause of this sound, which I term a click follow by a buzz, is the initialization of the ABS system (pump and electronics). Every ABS car I know of does this if the ABS/ESP and brake assist system is Bosch. I can only assume that this sound is at least possible in other such systems. It usually happens upon the first movement of the car from a full stop after it is started -- and every time it is started.
I start mine four times a day (a 2003 Audi allroad) and it makes this sound four times a day.
If I have mis-guessed what you are talking about or you do not think my explanation is accurate, please check with your dealer. If this is what it is, no harm no foul. If it is not, well, better have it looked into.
thanks for the review though.
These are what I do to maximize my mileage: 38psi in tires, very gradual acceleration (driving like there is an egg between my foot & the accelerator - I may take 30 seconds to get to 60 mph in very light traffic), anticipating slowing & stopping & coasting a lot (i.e. if there is a stop sign ahead & light traffic, let the car coast down 20 mph or more before starting to use brakes), looking for patterns in stop lights (I don't rush to the next stop light so I can be the 1st one to stop & wait the longest), thus rarely having to stop, using cruise control, and staying "relatively" close to legal speed limit.
These techniques are nothing new, but most people simply don't think about driving for the best mileage & so they do not get it! Obviously, some of these techniques cannot be used at rush hour or in LA.
With these types of techniques, almost any car can handily beat the EPA highway estimates. I have almost always been able to get 5-10 more highway mpg than EPA says. Exceptions, in my hands, have been 2 minivans, a Mazda Tribute, and a Honda VX. With those vehicles I was only able to beat EPA by 1-2 mpg.
While it is not exactly a thrilling ride, it a different kind of challenge & very satisfying at the gas pump & the checking account. But then, any idiot can burn rubber.
After nearly 8 months and a shade more than 11,000 miles, I have had no problems to keep me off the road. The only issues so far include a connection glitch with the XM radio that was quickly fixed, and the front passenger window doesn't always want to stay rolled up. Occasionally, when I use the "auto-up" feature, it will go up, then roll back down about a third of the way. This has happened maybe 3 times -- the first was about a month ago. I'm not screaming about this because it only happens with the one-touch up, so I'll just get the service department to check it out during the 15K service, which is less than 4K (2.5 months, tops) away.
I switched to Mobil 1 at the 5K service, knowing I'd be going 10K miles between oil changes. It hasn't used any yet. Or, at least it hasn't used enough for it to matter on the dipstick.
My gas mileage hovers around 26 mpg combined -- pretty good for the way I sometimes flog it. If I drive carefully, like 204 Meca, I can squeeze up to 33-35 on the freeway (relatively flat roads, little or no traffic, cruise set no higher than 70 -- three conditions that are tough to meet in Southern California). I think the mpg this car is capable of is quite amazing, when I consider the performance and luxury that come along with it.
I have only a few gripes, and they are minor. The sunvisors are useless. They're gorgeous, but useless. I'm a tall guy, and they provide almost no protection from the side. I can only imagine how crappy they are for shorter drivers. Also, the cup holders, as artful as they may be, are equally worthless. Well, the one that pops out of the dash is okay for bottled water or soda (with the cap on it, of course). But the center armrest cupholder is a joke. Still, I use it every morning to carry coffee to work. Some days, I make it without a mess. Other days -- not so lucky.
The car had a few buzzes and rattles when it was fresh off the lot. The more annoying ones came from either the rear driver's side door or the package shelf (I never could quite pin that one down) and from the credit card holder next to the cupholder in the dash. Those seem to have worked themselves out. When they pop up, which isn't often, they don't last long. And that's good, because do you know how hard it is to get a car to rattle for a service tech when it's been driving you batty for weeks, and it suddenly decides to behave when you give up and take it in?
Okay, onto the good stuff -- everything that makes the car go and stop (engine, brakes, transmission, steering, suspension) is excellent. They were great from day one, and have only improved with age and miles. Another Audi poster (I forget which board on Town Hall) once said an Audi with 5k miles is different from an Audi with 10k miles -- and they're both better than one right off the lot. He or she is absolutely right. The sport suspension, a bit harsh for the first few months, has limbered up. The engine revs easier. And the shifter isn't as balky as it was on day one.
The seats and the stereo (Bose with XM) make sitting in traffic almost painless -- as does the effortless clutch. The climate control goes about its business so unobtrusively, I often forget it's on, after setting the temperature.
This car is just so easy to drive and to live with, I don't have to think about it. That doesn't mean I don't concentrate on what I'm doing when I'm on the road. It means the car has no annoying traits to distract me from the single-minded purpose of getting where I need to be. That actually helps driver concentration.
I hope and pray my first Audi experience will stay as happy as the first 8 months have been. I'm glad there are forums such as this one for frustrated owners to share their problems. But I also hope more Audi owners will have good stories to tell, too. I've told a few friends that if all goes well with this A4 over the next few years, I might just let it be my only Audi, so I won't run the risk of getting a lemon the second time around, and spoiling the relationship.
No matter what happens, this is truly the best road car I've ever had the pleasure to drive and own.
Based on my buying experience in Dec 03, I would say you have cut a reasonably good deal. Yet there is no harm in going for the low-ball. The worse they can say is no & unless someone else is standing in line to by this car, you can always pay the higher price.
Do the above for the first tank or two of gas and you'll be fine.
More importantly, in my experience is the break in period for the brakes -- which is 150 miles. If possible do not engage ABS or ESP for the first 150 miles of driving.
On the other hand, if you need to make a panic stop, well -- MAKE IT!
The issue with the brakes is that the pads and rotors need some time to "get acquainted" with each other.
The upgrade to the Bose system is, like anything else, in the ear of the heholder -- I think it is worth it.
And, recently having test driven several cars with sat radio -- I would have to say the sound quality there is an improvement, too.
The bose system incorporates active-equalization and individually amp'd speakers -- if sound is really important to you, go for it.
(I am a current BMW 330 owner looking to the end of my lease next summer. Nav systems have become a necessity to me).
THanks!
I too love the Nav systems -- and the Audi system works; it is too hard to use and too slow compared with what is widely available on less expensive cars.
It works just fine tho -- if you can tolerate the user interface.
Audi should be worried, or embarrassed, if you ask me.
I have only had my Audi for 2000 miles (A4 1.8T Quattro) and am extremely happy. However, I too have rattles. One comes from the front center console. I can't pin it down either, but it appears to come from near the ashtray. Somedays it drives me crazy. Other days it doesn't make a sound. When I took the car in to be checked, of course it didn't make a peep. Also have some rattling at times from the sunroof, but that seems to happen less and less.
Hope my rattles wear off as yours have.
its a 99 model with 39k I love this car! we just returned from the beach ,about a two hour ride and I just wanted to keep driving. I am anal about oil changes and regular maint. I am curious what oil to use,synthetic,non-synthetic,blended?
also what weight for central north carolina?
our summers reach 100 degrees? a friend suggested castrol 10-40.anyone with some input I would welome any advice.
p.s. Recently test drove a 2001 Audi S4 Avant with 35k miles. Wife likes it a lot. Any specific issues with this model year??
or 10w 40 mobil 1, please elaborate.
Yes that is ZERO "0" to 40 "FORTY" -- this oil is a miracle of chemistry -- it is the oil my Audi dealer uses in Audis and Porsches -- it is, essentially, year round weight. It has the properties of extreme thinness "0" and as it warms can become as viscous as 40W motor oil.
Ask me anything else, and I will have to make my answer up -- essentially, this is "the ideal" motor oil weight for any climate you are likely to live in, in the US (and probably almost anywhere else, for that matter).
My only issues with 117k on have been a failed auxiliary cooling fan @ 75k, a bad suspension bushing, bad rotors @ 105k and 3 bad wheel bearings (105k).
The fan failed again @ 16k due to mice eating the insulation on wiring in the fender, hardly the car's fault. I consider the A4 the best-built car I've owned in 40 years.
I'll report back @ 120k.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93