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Mazda 626

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  • Thanks qbrozen. I went ahead and put the K&N filter in and noticed a much better throttle response. I guess for now I'll just enjoy the car as is. But, I will keep looking. Someone HAS to be modifiying these things.
  • Alright, a couple days ago, something dropped down in the car... like if you know the car, then its in the area where if you REMOVE the ashtray, there's a little room behind it... and something I had dropped down in a little hole that I didn't know was there. It's very small, and I can't even see down there with a flashlight.

    Is there anyway to remove all that stuff (such as the cupholders, or any panels in that area) to get down inside the car? I don't want to start really pulling hard on stuff in case it breaks...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,223
    I thought the same thing.

    One suggestion I did get (but never had any luck with but I'll pass on to you anyway in case you can make use of it) was to look for Ford Probe GT mods. Used the same engine (so I'm told). I never found much for that car, either. And I was also afraid to spend the money on anything I did find without confirmation as to whether it would actually fit the Mazda.

    Good luck.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I want to buy a 1997 mazda 626 LX, when I check the car, i found it has a lot of tappet noise on start up , after run 5--10 minutes,
    then no noise.
    What is the problem? is it hurt engine? if it is fixed,
    should this problem repeat often?
    can I buy the used car?
    please reply to my emailbox. capital@sina.com
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,223
    I also wrote to your email address, but I'll post here, too:

    Might be a little low on oil or the oil is a bit old and thick. either way, an oil change could very well solve the noise.

    My '99 always had a bit of valve noise on startup, but it would never last 5-10 mins. Maybe 15 seconds at best. But I find that in many cars and is perfectly fine.

    good luck.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If it is only while the engine is cold, not a problem. Considered normal.

    My Mazda specialist mechanic doesn't run any higher weight than 5W-30. Even a 10W-30 is a lot noisier. Personally, I also installed a block heater for use in below freezing weather. This costs very little and the engine starts in all but sub zero weather as smooth as butter.

    I also change the oil every 4,000 miles to ensure that the inside of the engine stays clean.

    Most drivers neglect transmissions. Check the fluid and if it has a strong burnt smell walk away. If it doesn't drain and refill with fresh every 15K and you shouldn't have problems. True of most vehicles. Transmissions are severely neglected.

    Mazdas are fun to drive.
  • I've got a '94 626 that I have to keep outdoors. Other than replacing the infamous transaxel at about 77k, car runs fine. I have noticed recently that the headlamp covers seem to be "yellowing". Anyone else have that problem? Can anything be done (short of replacing them with Mazda original parts)? Also, I have the silver paint job - which is significantly fading. Anyone been successful restoring it with rubbing compound? Thanks!
  • I am shopping for a used car right now, and I'm very nervous about it as I have never owned a newer car and never taken on car payments. I want to buy a car that will last 150,000+ miles. I am looking seriously at a 2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES and a 1999 Mazda 626 LX 5-spd manual trans. (I prefer manual for handling in the snow and it's usual lack of tranny problems) The asking price on the 626 is $9995, and it has 34K miles on it. the Galant is $10995 with 20K miles on it. Either way, the price/milage seems good- is this a great deal or just average?? Also, what are your thoughts on the longevity of either car?
  • Which, coincidentally, is right here at edmunds.com; click on "Used" and follow links as needed.

    Ten grand strikes me as just a tad high for an LX, even with the lux package, though 34k is way low mileage on a car this old. This little four-banger is sturdy; minor ailments tend to creep in between 60k and 100k, but 150k isn't at all out of reach. I have no experience with the Mitsu, though a friend of mine who has owned two Galants swears that they're the second-greatest thing since chopped liver.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I have heard that you can use turtle wax rubbing compound on headlamp covers to remove most of the yellow. They won't look new, but they will look substantially better and you will be amazed at how much brighter your lights are.
  • Hello all. I had a strange experience the other day. I went to get my transmission flushed (as opposed to dropping the pan and only changing 3 qts.) and the shop (Precision Tune) said they couldn't do it because they didn't have the proper fittings for that transmission. (99 ES V6 AT)Has anyone had this happen? Have any of you flushed your transmission and if so with what company? Thanks for all your help.
  • I have an intermittent stalling problem that has occurred several times over the last few months. It may last for one or several days. The car will stall at idle. Keeping the rpm's up using the accelerator will prevent it but it stalls so abruptly that it is usually impossible to avoid it at intersections. One of my thoughts is the fuel filter which hasn't been changed in a while. I don't know the difficulty of this. It doesn't seem to correlate with gasoline fill ups. Any other thoughts?

    Thanks,
    Dan
  • I bought a used '95 4 cyl 626 in '97 with about 30K miles on it at that time. I'm now driving 200+ miles/day and have over 160K miles on the car. The only maintenance has been normal wear for a vehicle with this many miles. The car has been very dependable for me.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,223
    Just my personal experience, but I absolutely hated the Galant ('98) my wife had for 4 years. A real POS. Not really any specific major problems, but a lot of rattling, rough running, false warning lights, parts wearing out, etc. Had my 626 ('99) right around the same time and it was just a world of difference. The 626 felt much more solid and never gave a moments doubt as to its construction. We also both felt (and anyone else who took a ride in each car) that the Mazda was roomier on the inside.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,223
    My exact thought when reading your problem before getting to your suggestion was the fuel filter. So that makes 2 of us. :)

    Real easy to find out. You can remove it and then blow into the receiving side. If there is no resistance, than that's not your problem.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The most likely culprit is the EGR valve. When they fail, they cause an abrupt intermittent stall whenever the engine gets close to idle speed. My friend is having this exact same problem on his 93 MX3. His stalling only occurs when the engine has been run a little while and is at normal operating temperature. It's not a cheap fix. If it's bad, expect to pay around $200-400.
  • The idle air control valve, if really dirty or actually damaged, can cause symptoms like this. Unfortunately, it costs even more than the EGR valve. (I had to buy one for a '93; the part alone was perilously close to $600.)

    Let's hope for the fuel filter. They're relatively cheap, if not as accessible as I'd like.
  • The last time I had this done to a GF4A-EL transmission (the '93 was the only four-cylinder 626 ever to have it), I was at a Mazda store; they charged me, I seem to recall, about $115.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Posts: 854
    "I want to buy a car that will last 150,000+ miles."

    You must maintain the car to get it to last that long, not just drive it. Most of today's cars can go long if maintained properly.
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    I just bought a new 2002 626 4 cylinder automatic.
    I had a 2001 626 4 cylinder automatic that was about 1.5 years old that went to my son who just got his license. The 2001 had the transmission replaced at 21,000 miles. From day one I had noticed an "oil" smell while driving. I was told that "there is no oil smell" so I changed dealers with my complaint. The new dealer re-routed the tranny vent line and most of the smell went away. I guess the real problem was the tranny was getting too hot and that was causing the smell, although the fluid level was always fine. To get to the point, my 2002 now has an extra cooler for the transmission (mounted in front of the radiator. I guess better late than never, thanks Mazda! I have put 200 miles on it with no "smell". I feel confident there should be no tranny problems in this 626. I guess I should add the cooler to my sons car now so he won't have any problems.

    Tony
  • Love the car - ride, fit/finish and options. Picked it up this weekend for $9900 with 41k. Without reading all 1100+ previous posts, can anyone give me a quick lowdown on any special care or what I should be watching for in terms of problems/idiosyncracies?? TIA

    Tom
  • (A four-cylinder ES? Very few of those - I think I've seen two total - sneaked off dealer lots.)

    The weakest link, by general agreement, is the automatic. By '99, some, though not all, of the upgrades were in place. It is, I think, a Good Thing to baby this trans - flush it once a year or 15k miles. If it's out of warranty already, consider adding an auxiliary cooler, which is relatively cheap.

    The engine is sturdy. The valve-cover gasket tends to leak at high miles: easy fix on the four. The hydraulic valve-lash adjusters found on earlier models have been banished, as has the distributor, which cuts out two potential problems but adds the necessity of having valve lash checked occasionally; I'd do it at 60k with the timing belt.

    Suspension parts are generally on the robust side, with the notable exception of the CV boots, which have a tendency to become cracked and split (65-85k), which is bad for the drive axle. Rebuilt axles, however, are cheap.

    Weatherstripping around the doors is less sturdy than I think it ought to be.

    And plunk down the $27 or so at the dealership for a copy of the owner's manual (or look for one on eBay), if you didn't get one. Not everything in this car is perfectly intuitive.
  • I just purchased a 2002 626 lx 4 cyl. I see alot of unhappy people. Will I have mucho problems with this car. I did get a good deal. If it is not a good car I guess it wasn't a good deal.
  • Yes, an automatic ES four-banger!

    I drive 70 miles to and from work everyday, and add on another 15 miles or so for errands, and you'll see that fuel economy is a factor for me. The ES's creature comforts were the biggest seller next to the fuel economy. DId come with a manual, and I will look into the tranny flush and belt change/valve lash check within the year.

    Thanx for the tips.....
  • I assume if someone is unhappy, there's a reason for it. The fourth-generation 626 ('93-'97) lacked the reliability of the previous versions, one reason Mazda has had to buckle down to improve the latter-day models.

    I'm a month into Year Three with a 2000 LX, and so far it has given me an absolute minimum of grief while returning gas mileage slightly above the EPA sticker - call it 23 city, 29 highway, and most of those highway miles were accumulated in the month of July, so the A/C was on more often than not.

    Some minor things bug me - it would be nice if the door had been cut about an inch higher into the roof so I wouldn't have to duck quite so much, and the low-fuel light comes on too soon to suit me - but otherwise, this was the right car at the right time.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,223
    Was there really that few of these? If so, the dealer I bought my 626 from must have had most of them. I wanted an ES, but all of those on his lot were 4-cyl. I decided the V6 was more important to me than the power seats and ended up with an LX. :(

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • At different times I've encountered these problems with my 98 5 sp 4 cyl.

    I had a case of the stalls shortly after my wife learned to drive the car (never drove a 5-sp before). Turns out she cooked the oxygen sensor, which led to air/fuel problems, stall outs, etc.

    The hesitation problem (at acceleration) was a tougher one to figure out. I took it to the dealer and they "couldn't replicate" the problem. I initially thought it was a computer problem but that didn't pan out. After several weeks I took it to a friend's shop. He replaced the plug wires and the problem went away. Total cost was about $50.

    So if yer stallin' or hesitatin' don't overlook the simple things. It could save some green.

    -2p
  • Maybe all the other dealers unloaded them on this one. I don't have numbers in front of me, and I doubt MNAO is willing to hand them out anyway, but this particular combination was new for '99 and dropped after '01, so it was likely the lowest-selling of the four versions being offered during those years.

    The local stores here on the Lone Prairie stocked up on LX and ES-V6 models; if you wanted anything other than stripped or stuffed, you waited.
  • So far I really like the ES I4, but I do have a question regarding the keyless entry/immobilizer system. Found out that if you start the car and lock the doors (say, to warm it up on a cold morning), the keyless entry remote will NOT work. Had to use the spare to manually open the car. Need to give my wife the key, and don't wanna spend the ~$35 to cut and program another, but if I go to the hardware store, will they be able to cut a "valet" key? Or will I have to go to the Mazda dealer?

    TIA
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    You can get a key for the doors cut at the hardware store, but NEVER use it in the ignition. You could end up needing your vehicle towed to the dealer.
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