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Comments
Anyway, a Spout connector is mostly rectangular, with a small square keyway molded into the top of it; normally there's a plastic doohickey stuck into it (which is your shorting bar). Generally it's between the fuse box and the battery.
I mean if you have or presently work at one. I have to let you all know that I actually owned a 99 ES4. It was Vancouver blue w/tan leather and moonroof, factory spoiler etc., it was a beautiful car. Had it about a year and traded it when I needed more room for kids. Although I was well aware of the inevitable trans issues that would come up, I was comfortable that my dealer rep would help me out no matter what the mileage. I also didnt care for the keyless remote not working with the car running but that was about the only thing I didnt like.
And no, I'm not a tech, nor do I play one on television; it's simply that when I buy something I can't afford to replace on a regular basis, I try to learn as much about it as possible. And I'm on my second 626, so my anecdotal evidence is worth twice as much as the next guy's.
There's one other issue with the keyless remote, if you ask me: the plastic ring that's supposed to hold it onto your key ring breaks too easily. I've killed both my original remotes already.
I guess Mazda sort of addressed the problem as the 6 uses remotes similar looking to the Millenia except they do say Visteon on the back (oh no!).
Dave
I think maybe I'm putting too much stuff on the key rings, things are banging together, and the remotes are history.
I bought a new remote at the dealership the last time I got an oil change and lost it before I ever got off the premises, so I'm starting to think that there's some bizarre force in the universe that wants me to use the key, the whole key, and nothing but the key.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My wife told me that she almost went and bought one of thsoe leftover 626's for me for Christmas. Guess I shouldn't have told her what a good deal they were... I'm planning on keeping the $2000 94 626 I got for a while yet. I had to put in a new radiator and hoses, but it keeps on running just fine. I keep waiting for something to go wrong with it, but it keeps going and going.
Dave
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It's the METER fuse. In that year, when it goes, it also locks the shift lever, and you have to use the key to unlock it.
Anyway, the spare remote is dead, but anyone know how well protected that key is? I mean, I know its sealed and should hold up in the wash (I hope/assume) but in the dryer under high heat for a good 45 minutes - that's another story. I don't wanna try it in the ignition, only to lock out my car..........
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
What year(s) did they put them in the 626, out of curiosity. hell, maybe mine had one and I never knew it...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Its since been traded in on a volvo.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
um.... wait.... but isn't the valet key a non-plastic top key??
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Another thought ...can my Cassette unit and this unit exist at the same time in my console? THen I can still do my books on tape.
THanks in advance!
thanks any help would be appreciated.
Thanks again!
one question. i've read somewhere here about a banging noise in the rear of the car and that there's some bracket i have to get. can you share some info on this. thanks again.
the first ten minutes of a cold(westcentralIL)
start.I even removed my ss mudflap,but it occurred
again.Love our Doubleought Freeport w/leftleg
flexor. God speed to Columbia Crew
i love this car but the gas mileage isn't very good.i travel 134 miles round trip 5 days a week.
i'm having to fill up only after 350 miles. it's all highway driving and i do between 65 and 70 mph.when i fill up she will normally take 13.5 gallons leaving 2.5 gal in the car.is this normal.
At 350 miles on 13.5 gallons, we're talking a shade under 26 mpg, which is within screaming distance of the sticker guesstimate.
I think the winter has some to do with it, since I remember getting 26-28mpg in the summer, but that sure seems like a drastic drop and surely for the size of the engine and weight of the car it should be getting better gas mileage than that. If I reset the trip meter when I fillup, rarely will it see 300miles or higher, and that would be driving it till the light comes on probably, and I usually don't run it that low! The car runs fine and has been since I got it.
Oh yah, it has 137,000 miles on it.
see 28to30 all the time.Our driving conditions
are similar but the tach is straight up several
times a week...Zoom/Zoom
1. Should I and is so when change a manual transmission fluid.
2. When should I change original platinum spark plugs?
3. Should I change water pump with timing belt?
Thanks
Dejan
The manual calls for new plugs at the 30k point, be they platinum, zinc, or Styrofoam. The main reason for this is the longer they stay in there, the harder it is to get them out - and the more likely they are to get trapped and cause eventual well damage.
There's good reason to replace the water pump when you do the timing belt - most of the labor involved has already been done - but these tend to last quite a bit longer than 60k. My thinking here is to let it go and change it at 120k.
You should definitely do the belt, of course, and in a 2000, you should have the valve clearance checked. (Hydraulic lash adjusters were banished in 1998.)
So it is not bad idea to change transmission fluid. I assume there is a drain plug on the bottom but is there a filler whole on the top? How much fluid does it take? I was thinking to put is synthetic gear oil in it. Is that a good idea? Also my father has 1998 626 LX (I4) with automatic transmission and I was also thinking of changing his Automatic transmission fluid and putting synthetic ATF in? If synthetics work well in Mazda MT and AT which brand do you recommend?
The Mazda's replacement is a 2003 VW Passat GLX. In the future you can find me on the Passat and Intrigue boards.
BTW you can by platinum NGK(which are OEM I believe) at advance auto parts for $10.79 and I also found NGK Iridium for $7.12 at http://www.clubplug.net/retail_iridium_ngk.html
your advice is always welcome.
anyway as far as your problem goes, heres what you do. Go to the dealer with the car and tell them that the rear sway bar bushings have too much play in them and they need to be replaced. If they have a problem with you telling them what it is thats making the noise, insist on having them put the car up in the air and then grab the sway bar firmly right beside the bushing and push it up and down and you will feel the play in it. If you like, you can remove the bushing covers yourself and add some electrical tape to the sway bar where it fits inside the bushing. This slight increase in diameter is enough to fix it. Let me know how it goes............