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Mazda 626

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Comments

  • carbonnicarbonni Member Posts: 33
    I read the Haynes repair manual of my '96 626 L4 ATX and they recommend checking/adjusting the timing every 2 years. One of the steps is to "disconnect the shorting bar from the two-wire SPOUT connector located between the battery and the data link connector". It may sound simple, but I still have no clue which one of the connectors the SPOUT is. Anybody has any idea how the SPOUT connector looks like and (more precisely) where to look for it?
  • wongsterwongster Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone know if my 1999 ES has one?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    no, it doesn't.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I think they carried that recommendation over from the early-80s models; it wouldn't seem necessary on a '96, and I certainly never needed it on the '93. (Of course, I didn't change my own timing belt, either, which may tell you something right there.)

    Anyway, a Spout connector is mostly rectangular, with a small square keyway molded into the top of it; normally there's a plastic doohickey stuck into it (which is your shorting bar). Generally it's between the fuse box and the battery.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    Hi kids.....I am a Mazda tech of 15 years and I like to come into these sites once in a while (when I can) to see how things are going. Windowphobe seems to have things under control (I couldnt agree more with his opinions, and he seems to be well informed) and I was wondering if you have dealer experience windowphobe. (aside from the miserable task of buying a car!)
    I mean if you have or presently work at one. I have to let you all know that I actually owned a 99 ES4. It was Vancouver blue w/tan leather and moonroof, factory spoiler etc., it was a beautiful car. Had it about a year and traded it when I needed more room for kids. Although I was well aware of the inevitable trans issues that would come up, I was comfortable that my dealer rep would help me out no matter what the mileage. I also didnt care for the keyless remote not working with the car running but that was about the only thing I didnt like.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Hardly.

    And no, I'm not a tech, nor do I play one on television; it's simply that when I buy something I can't afford to replace on a regular basis, I try to learn as much about it as possible. And I'm on my second 626, so my anecdotal evidence is worth twice as much as the next guy's. :)

    There's one other issue with the keyless remote, if you ask me: the plastic ring that's supposed to hold it onto your key ring breaks too easily. I've killed both my original remotes already.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I've seen remotes that were broken but I've never had that happen to any of mine on my old 626 or the trucks I've had (similar Ford remote). do you fondle your keys under stress or does this happen as you fight over who is going to drive with your significant other?

    I guess Mazda sort of addressed the problem as the 6 uses remotes similar looking to the Millenia except they do say Visteon on the back (oh no!).
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Just saw an ad for our local Mazda dealer in the paper. They are blowing out the last of their 2002 626's. LX's, automatic, sticker $20,000 US & change for $14,000. I've been thinking of getting rid of my 94 626 and getting a late model used Maxima, but this is tempting.

    Dave
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    No significant other, either.

    I think maybe I'm putting too much stuff on the key rings, things are banging together, and the remotes are history.

    I bought a new remote at the dealership the last time I got an oil change and lost it before I ever got off the premises, so I'm starting to think that there's some bizarre force in the universe that wants me to use the key, the whole key, and nothing but the key.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    After rebate, I paid $15,400 or so for my 2000 LX (sticker $19,575, plus I had them install a tape deck under the CD player), so this strikes me as a decent deal.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    I'm not surprised they need to really slash the prices on these. I stopped by finally the other day and all I can say is WOW! The new 6s are incredibly sharp looking. Although they do look much smaller... could be just my imagination though. The 626 looks so outdated sitting next to one of these.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • izzy3269aizzy3269a Member Posts: 6
    The dash panel on my '94 626 is dead. The Check Engine Light, Brake Light, etc. are all dead when I turn on the ignition. However, I can start the car, turn on the headlights, but I can't shift into reverse. Any ideas as to which fuse is blown, or what the problem may be? Thanks
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    After taking a look at the leftover 626's and the new 6, I have to agree. The 6 does look smaller, though it might be an optical illusion. Everyting on it is in my opinion overstyled and oddly shaped, outside and in.

    My wife told me that she almost went and bought one of thsoe leftover 626's for me for Christmas. Guess I shouldn't have told her what a good deal they were... I'm planning on keeping the $2000 94 626 I got for a while yet. I had to put in a new radiator and hoses, but it keeps on running just fine. I keep waiting for something to go wrong with it, but it keeps going and going.

    Dave
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Can't shift into reverse?? What about other gears? I would think the two aren't related... but if you can't get into any gear, then maybe the switch that detects if you are stepping on your brake went out along with the dash. (????)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Solved, without much help from the likes of me. :)

    It's the METER fuse. In that year, when it goes, it also locks the shift lever, and you have to use the key to unlock it.
  • wongsterwongster Member Posts: 7
    My wife left the spare key and remote in her jeans and threw it into the wash. Wondered what the thumping was in the dryer and lo and behold, there they were! :(

    Anyway, the spare remote is dead, but anyone know how well protected that key is? I mean, I know its sealed and should hold up in the wash (I hope/assume) but in the dryer under high heat for a good 45 minutes - that's another story. I don't wanna try it in the ignition, only to lock out my car..........
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Am I not following this? What is the question? Whether the metal key has held up through a dryer cycle?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    Assuming your are talking about an immobilzer key, it wont hurt to try the key once in the car and see if the car stays running. if it doesnt work, bring it to the dealer and tell them it just quit working. (I am assuming you have another key) If your car is under warranty they will replace it. I would leave out the washer and dryer story.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    is this one of those cards you plug in under the dash? Geesh, I didn't think anyone actually used those. ;)

    What year(s) did they put them in the 626, out of curiosity. hell, maybe mine had one and I never knew it...

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    to answer your question in post #1241, you just are'nt following this............by the way, what year 626 do you have? 70's? 80's? 90's?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    i had a '98.
    Its since been traded in on a volvo.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    Your 98 was availible with an immoblilzer key which is a key with a "chip" in the black plastic part which is recognized by a sensor ring around the ignition lock. These keys arent cheap and we charge to reprogram them as well. Now you know why the other poster was concerned about having to pay!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    never knew that.

    um.... wait.... but isn't the valet key a non-plastic top key??

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    because you didnt have the immobilizer option. The valet key on a car equipped w/immobilizer has a gray plastic end instead of black.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    so it was an option. then i definitely didn't have it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mazdamad1mazdamad1 Member Posts: 5
    I recently found a 2000 626 CD unit at a junk yard real cheap. 15.00!! Are the wiring harnesses utterly different or would it be as simple as plugging them in? Am I just better off going after market? 15.00 is tempting...

    Another thought ...can my Cassette unit and this unit exist at the same time in my console? THen I can still do my books on tape.

    THanks in advance!
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Member Posts: 20
    hi guys. i recently bought a 2000 626 lx v6. and i love it..BUT i get this loud screech when i apply the brakes when the car has been sitting still for a few hrs. the noise goes away almost imediately but it does bother me. i'm asking for advice before i take it back to the dealer ..
    thanks any help would be appreciated.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Brake pads have a tendency to be something less than absolutely flat. It's probably just pad glaze, which will, of course, disappear after a couple of stops. When it doesn't disappear - that's when you worry.
  • ian18ian18 Member Posts: 133
    I installed a Mazda CD player designed for the later model Mazda's into my '93 626. I had no problems once I was able to pull the original unit out. There was an extra grounding lead for the power antenna on the old unit that was not needed on the new one. Everything else just plugged right in. For $15 you cannot loose.
  • mazdamad1mazdamad1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks alot for the info ian18... based on your info I am gonna go for it!

    Thanks again!
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    My 2000 LX-V6 tends to squeal in humid weather after it has been sitting for more than a day or two. The noise comes from the rear discs, and goes away after the first couple stops. I agree with windophobe6 that it's not a big deal unless it persists.
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Member Posts: 20
    i really appreciate the advice and the very quick response.the dealer i bought it from will make the repairs asap.
    one question. i've read somewhere here about a banging noise in the rear of the car and that there's some bracket i have to get. can you share some info on this. thanks again.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    This is the bracket to the solenoid to the CDC valve, which controls the flow in and out of the evap canister (where your fuel fumes end up). There's a TSB on this, which applies to '98 through '00. Not a safety issue, but it can be annoying.
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    I have on occasion heard this tapping,not banging,that is discussed in the TSB...during
    the first ten minutes of a cold(westcentralIL)
    start.I even removed my ss mudflap,but it occurred
    again.Love our Doubleought Freeport w/leftleg
    flexor. God speed to Columbia Crew
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Member Posts: 20
    dealer is taking car of the brakes at no charge..
    i love this car but the gas mileage isn't very good.i travel 134 miles round trip 5 days a week.
    i'm having to fill up only after 350 miles. it's all highway driving and i do between 65 and 70 mph.when i fill up she will normally take 13.5 gallons leaving 2.5 gal in the car.is this normal.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    The fuel light always seems to come on between 2.5 and 3.0 gallons left, yes.

    At 350 miles on 13.5 gallons, we're talking a shade under 26 mpg, which is within screaming distance of the sticker guesstimate.
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Member Posts: 20
    thanks again windowphobe6. the ride is worth the gas mileage.
  • blacklabelblacklabel Member Posts: 11
    I've been measuring the fuel economy on my '93 626 with 4cyl auto the last 5 or so fillups and it's only about 20-22mpg! This is all combined driving, which is pretty much city, but I live in a small town and it's never stop and go kind of traffic. I've been driving it quite mildly too (stays below 3500rpms mostly).

    I think the winter has some to do with it, since I remember getting 26-28mpg in the summer, but that sure seems like a drastic drop and surely for the size of the engine and weight of the car it should be getting better gas mileage than that. If I reset the trip meter when I fillup, rarely will it see 300miles or higher, and that would be driving it till the light comes on probably, and I usually don't run it that low! The car runs fine and has been since I got it.

    Oh yah, it has 137,000 miles on it.
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    We also notice a decrease in winter,not to your figures blacklabel.At only 36K...justa pup...we
    see 28to30 all the time.Our driving conditions
    are similar but the tach is straight up several
    times a week...Zoom/Zoom
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I remember scoring one 19.9 mpg tankful on a '93 in the midst of a serious cold snap, versus the typical 21 or 22. (Springtime brought 23s and 24s.) However, I didn't make any effort to stay in the lower half of the tach.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Member Posts: 124
    I have 2000 626 LX-V6 5sp and 53000 miles on it. 60000 mark is comming soon and I'm wondering about few things:
    1. Should I and is so when change a manual transmission fluid.
    2. When should I change original platinum spark plugs?
    3. Should I change water pump with timing belt?
    Thanks
    Dejan
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Mazda makes no specific recommendation for draining out the gearbox; it's probably not necessary right now, but it won't hurt. With 53k in three years, it's probably safe to assume a lot of highway miles, which are kinder to gears generally.

    The manual calls for new plugs at the 30k point, be they platinum, zinc, or Styrofoam. The main reason for this is the longer they stay in there, the harder it is to get them out - and the more likely they are to get trapped and cause eventual well damage.

    There's good reason to replace the water pump when you do the timing belt - most of the labor involved has already been done - but these tend to last quite a bit longer than 60k. My thinking here is to let it go and change it at 120k.

    You should definitely do the belt, of course, and in a 2000, you should have the valve clearance checked. (Hydraulic lash adjusters were banished in 1998.)
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Member Posts: 124
    Thanks for answering my first question. I had no idea that went away from Hydraulic lash adjusters.

    So it is not bad idea to change transmission fluid. I assume there is a drain plug on the bottom but is there a filler whole on the top? How much fluid does it take? I was thinking to put is synthetic gear oil in it. Is that a good idea? Also my father has 1998 626 LX (I4) with automatic transmission and I was also thinking of changing his Automatic transmission fluid and putting synthetic ATF in? If synthetics work well in Mazda MT and AT which brand do you recommend?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I have no experience with synthetic transmission fluid, either MT or AT. Julian Bradbury, the UK expert on such things, does recommend them for the MT (he's partial to Redline), but suggests that since the fluid for automatics is so readily contaminated, you should stick with the standard ATF and change it once a year. (I adhere to a 15k change schedule on my 2000 LX.)
  • ian18ian18 Member Posts: 133
    I just want to let everyone know that after 105,000 miles I have sold my '93 ES 626 5 speed. It was in very good shape and I believe the new owner will do well with it. Over the past few years I have received some good advice from this board. Many thanks to all who have posted.

    The Mazda's replacement is a 2003 VW Passat GLX. In the future you can find me on the Passat and Intrigue boards.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    In reference to post 1265, I own a '99 626 ES V6 with a manual transmission. My car has about 62K miles on it now and I have the same dilemma. I recently replaced coolant by draining the radiator (there is no engine block drain plug). The car came originally with platinum plugs and they are about $ 18 a piece!!!!!!! and are only available from Mazda dealers. The owner's manual specifies replacing these plugs at 60K. You can also use non-platinum plugs, but then the replacement interval is 30K. A asked Mazda sevice rep about replacing the water pump at this time (with timing belt change). They said that these pumps fail very infrequently and recommended against it. Anyway, the cost of the water pump is about $ 100. I am surprised to read that this car does not have hydraulic valve lash adjusters. This is news to me. Is this a fact? I will probably wait a while with the timing belt change because this is a non- interference engine. This service is terribly expensive from the dealer - I was quoted $ 520, most of it for labor. This included replacement of camshaft sprocket and crank seals. The timing belt itself is about $ 70 from Mazda. Mazda also recommends replacing all driving belts around 60K. I am going to change my manual transmission oil and already bought Redline MTU 75W90 synthetic gear oil which is supposed to be safe for the synchonizers (no corrosive suphuric additives). The transmission holds about 3.0 quarts.
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    out of warranty at any dealer of any car make will cost you an arm and a leg.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Member Posts: 124
    I'm also looking to replace the plugs in mine(platinum as well) and do the 60K maintenance. Now new iridium plugs came out which are supposed to be better then platinum? Anyone has any experience with these?

    BTW you can by platinum NGK(which are OEM I believe) at advance auto parts for $10.79 and I also found NGK Iridium for $7.12 at http://www.clubplug.net/retail_iridium_ngk.html
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Member Posts: 20
    i have a 2000 lx v6 with auto trans. i recently had the car in the shop to have the rear struts replaced because of this rattle i would hear over bumps. the dealer replaced the struts but the rattle is still there. the car runs fine over bumps large and small but the noise is anoying. could it be the strut mounts? if so how can i check that myself without getting ripped off or wasting my time going back there..the car has 33k on it.the dealer put the struts in at no charge.and by the way i looked underneath the car and didn't see anything new in the strut area.
    your advice is always welcome.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    Are you insinuating that the dealer did not replace the struts? I dont like the sound of that one bit. By the way, the struts are the long black things with the big black spring which are found behind each wheel........
    anyway as far as your problem goes, heres what you do. Go to the dealer with the car and tell them that the rear sway bar bushings have too much play in them and they need to be replaced. If they have a problem with you telling them what it is thats making the noise, insist on having them put the car up in the air and then grab the sway bar firmly right beside the bushing and push it up and down and you will feel the play in it. If you like, you can remove the bushing covers yourself and add some electrical tape to the sway bar where it fits inside the bushing. This slight increase in diameter is enough to fix it. Let me know how it goes............
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