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Anyway, I'd opt for a chain drive if I had my choice, but belts served a good purpose in the quest for better IC engines.
Actually $ 70. This was the quote from my local Mazda dealer for a 626 V6 timing belt (99 model). I was off by $ 2, which would not even cover the tax (6% in my county), so no exaggeration here. $ 74.20 out the door.
I'm not shocked at all the airbags didn't deploy. If they did, that would be a bad thing considering the deer hit the side of the car. Glad it reacted (or more like didn't react) the way it was supposed to.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
What's for dinner?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. rack and pinion steering slowly leaks fluid. this is my second R&P, and started leaking after only one year. I have added Prestone anti leak fluid, and it seems to be holding its own.
2. pin hole leak in front exhaust. Since it is covered by a heat shield, the hold has not expanded in over a year.
3. engine light comes on every week to remind me that my catalytic converter is malfunctioning
4. car is starting to burn oil. I'm down about 1/2 quart every 3000 miles; again, not enough for me to worry about.
My current tire size is 205/55/16 I would like to put on 225/50/16.
Thanks
D
I am planning to buy a used 4 cyl, AT, mazda 2002. What is your opinion on this car? I have heard about the transmission problem, does this still occur on the 2002 model.
Thanks a lot for your tips.
Over on the 626 Troubles thread, I noted that I wasn't having any problems with a similar '00, but wondered why a car only a year old was already on the used market. Apparently I'm not alone in my paranoia.
As far as 626 being on used car lots I have seen 2000 and 2001 Accord's and Camry's on Domestic Big 3 car lots too. That doesn't mean their bad cars. That just means somebody wanted another car and was willing take the heavy loss on their trade-in. The new 6 doesn't have a Ford Tranny. Thats a great thing.
As far as depreciation is concerned Domestic Big 3 cars and Hyundai's have worse depreciation than Mazda's do. I know Mazda's don't have as good as resale as Honda or Toyota but that doesn't mean their bad cars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'll also reiterate my belief that despite the negative experiences of p100 and maxx4me, which we're all brutally aware of by now, generally speaking the 626 is not a bad car. Several of us on the board seem quite happy with our vehicles, and for good reason I'm sure. There are plenty of other cars out there that you'd have a lot more trouble with. Furthermore, if you'd rather have a Toyota, be prepared to fork over the extra $$$, but don't expect it to be flawless either. Usually you get what you pay for, but Toyota has it's problems too.
This is what i got about the fact of the car:
- it was an ex-rental car from Hertz.
- it is about 18000 mileage
- it is asking for US 10,300
I am going to test drive the car on Monday, and also have it checked by a third party. If everthing is fine, most probably i would buy the car.
One more thing to clarify:
I heard that the car warranty does not cover the transmission problems. is this true?
Thanks,
The price is OK, and it illustrates the deep depreciation these vehicles take: this asking price is about half of the original MSRP. Three years from now, this car will be worth about $ 5K.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
But know it won't even play commercial CD's either?
I am at my wits end.. Is there any cheap cleaning kit I can get to fix it?
Any suggestions would be Awesome!
Thanks
I suppose it's possible that older units don't play nicely with some or all CD-R and/or CD-RW discs (this used to be true for some CD-ROM drives before CD-R drives were popular), but if you can't consistently play high quality commercially produced discs I would say you definitely have a problem of some sort.
Cleaning the laser lens is probably the best first step. One can purchase special CD's which supposedly accomplish this, but I've not tried any myself so I don't know how effective they are.
Otherwise, the player in my '00 626 isn't finicky; once in a blue moon something will skip, but I've always been able to trace it back to some sort of crud on the disc itself - unless I'm doing something insane like going over a wornout railroad crossing at 92 mph.
Even though access to the belts is difficult, the tensioner pulley system is great. No need for pry bars on this one. It took about an hour to do this job.
I've already started thinking about how I would change the belt in my '00 2.5, and it looks like the plastic shield on the bottom of the wheel well definitely has to come off as you say. Seems pretty simple to remove, though. Better than some cars which don't have a panel to remove and only a small space in which to put your hand and a wrench between the pulleys and the wheel well.
I still have not changed the timing belt in my car - this is next. I am trying to get a few more miles out of the original one because I intend to change the water pump, tensioner, and cam sprocket seals, as well as the crank front seal. One thing you have to do when replacing the timing belt is to jack up the engine slightly by the oil pan (using a square piece of plywood), and then remove the upper engine mount. There is no way to slip a new belt over the mount. This looks like a fun job. The other two mounts are under the transaxle, which is rigidly bolted to the engine.