Mazda 626

windowphobe6 · January 2004

It's certainly not helping any.

For the first time in two decades, I have an actual garage; I don't know if it will contribute anything to vehicle longevity, but not standing outside at 6:30 am with an ice scraper will certainly contribute to mine.

rotarykid · January 2004

the trick is to go outside @ 6:10 and turn the car on with the heat blasting..bye-bye scraping!
.......unless you live in a less than desireable area, then it will be bye-bye car......

zoomzoom626 · January 2004

Wow..I have to pull the console off to get to be able to grease my shifter gate....I thought I could get in there just by taking off shifter boot..guess not...what kind of grease should I use anyway?

slickdog · January 2004

Unfortunately, in many cars the shift boot is either attached to the underside of the console, or to something which is completely obscured by it so you have to pull the whole thing out to get the boot off. That appears to be the case with the 626.

As for lubrication, I haven't yet looked at my shifter and don't know exactly what is producing the noise so I can't make a specific recommendation. Some shifters have pivots that can simply be greased, and some actually have a reservoir containing oil that can be changed (I've seen Miata discussions indicating that they have that type, but I don't know if the 626 does).

On another topic, my rear suspension is clunking again. To whoever just posted about their rear suspension bushings (too lazy to look for the post), you're not alone. This is the second time for my car, first time was less than a year ago when the dealer replaced the rear sway bar links and bushings under warranty. Looks like I'll be back there soon trying to get them to repeat last year's work for no charge.

p100 · January 2004

Some time ago somebody posted info about V6 engine knocking noise and associated TSB (cannot remember which post). I noticed that lately my 99 V6 makes very faint but distinct knocking noise when idling with no A/C on. The noise is very muffled but it is there. As soon as I turn the A/C on the noise disappears. It is only heard at idle. This is not typical pinging noise which can be heard during acceleration when the ignition timing is advanced too far, but quiet knock. Does anybody have any idea what the cause and remedy is?
The engine runs excellent and there is no knocking at any speed, except very faint knock at idle. I never use lower octane fuel than midgrade 89 in this car.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

Now you know why I moved.

And as we all know, it takes a while for the 626 to start producing mass quantities of heat. (It's a decent climate-control system otherwise - one of the benefits of domestic manufacture, I suppose - but warming up is something it does on its own sweet time.)

skibry1 · January 2004

Our doubleought does this intermittently.We even
emptied our trunk except spare tire and lid and
ocassionaly it could be heard.To fliipin' cold now
to empty it completely...she has 40+K.

p100 · January 2004

My 99 V6 warms up very rapidly when cold, unlike my 95 Nissan V6 pickup, which takes at least twice as long to warm up. The heater is strong, but then I never tested it in really cold climate. Compared to other vehicles I owned before, I certainly have no complaint about this 626 heater. I believe that 626 V6 engines have higher coolant capacity than 4 cylinders, and perhaps even a bigger heater core.

Concerning the rear suspension clunk, I never noticed it in this car. Could it be that V6 models have different struts or sway bars?

Also, I have not heard any squealing or squeaking noises coming from the shifter when shifting into any gear, so I cannot comment on that one.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

That usually doesn't describe us here in Deepest Oklahoma, but you never know, especially in January.

Consumer Reports once complained about the climate control taking a while, but that was on the four-cylinder model, I think. I don't know if the heater cores are different; the radiators are, I believe, the same, but the V6 probably holds a tad more coolant, if only because there's a greater area where the stuff has to run.

There's a TSB on a rear clunk on '98 through '00, but it doesn't involve any suspension parts; it's the valve that controls the evap canister from the fuel system.

slickdog · January 2004

My 626 has a V6, and it warms up quite fast, unless the temperature is REALLY low.

I've seen the TSB you refer to, windophobe6. I've actually had that problem, but it sounds different. More like a rattling sound, only heard when starting out in the morning, and not nearly as loud. I'm betting that my current problem is with the sway link bushings again, as it really only makes noise when the rear end experiences side to side movement. It has been between -15 and 10 degrees most mornings in my area for almost three weeks, so that could be partially responsible for whatever has malfunctioned back there. I'm not sure what suspension differences there are if any, between the V6 and I4 equipped models p100. I suppose it's possible that some changes were made from '99 to '00 as well.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

The I4 and V6 suspension parts have been pretty interchangeable within a given model year, though everything was stiffened up for 2000 after the pundits complained that the '98 redesign was soft and mushy. (Some of them subsequently complained that the '00 was harsh and jittery.)

Things do clunk more when they're cold.

dhoff · January 2004

Well, the old 94 Mazda 626 (4 cyl, 5 speed) has let me down. I bought it about 1 1/2 years ago with 79,000 miles on it. Got it cheap and had to replace the rear sway bar links, antenna, radiator and muffler since I bought it. Still less costly than a new car payment. Even put in a new CD player last month! It's at about 90,000 miles now.

On Monday it cut out on my way to work. The engine just died, the tach went to 0 even though I was still moving and the engine was turning. I coasted to the side of the road, and it started right back up. Hmm, I thought, that was strange.

Tonight I was on my from work to my chiropractor and it died again. On a 4 lane highway. 3 degrees F. And it wouldn't start back up, though it would crank fine. Luckily I was able to walk about 1/2 mile to my chiropractor without getting run over, called my wife, and got my adjustment.

The receptionist recommended a shop just down the street, so we went over and luckily they were still open. Had it towed in and they will look at it tomorrow. (Can you believe my wife didn't want to try pulling it over with our minivan? :-))

I'm guessing it's something electrical, or the fuel pump. If it had been warmer out I would have gone home for some tools to pull a plug to check for spark. When it was cranking it sounded normal, like it has compression, so I don't think it's the timing belt. I'll post once I know anything if anyone is interested.

Dave

p100 · January 2004

This appears to be a distributor problem. Just a wild guess based on bad history of some Mazda distributors.

lngtonge18 · January 2004

I agree with p100. Most Japanese distributors of this era are known for their sudden failures. Honda, Nissan, and Mazda are the most notable ones. Be prepared for a whopper of a repair bill if we are right! In Mazda's case, the oil seals tend to fail, allowing oil into the distributor and fouling all the electrical components. Sometimes cleaning them will solve the problem, but it's usually easier to just replace the whole unit, at 400-600 a pop.

dhoff · January 2004

Just got the word from the shop - bad distrubiter/coil/rotor unit. Parts $363, total w/ labor $514.27 That's USD, not Canadian! :-)

STILL less than a new car payment (I keep telling myself...) I figure I've spent about $60/month on repairs so far, including this one. This is the first time it has left me walking. After tax time, I might just be prowling the new (or used) car lots...

Dave

zoomzoom626 · January 2004

has anyone put these on and what was the gain in breaking performance?

p100 · January 2004

Are you replacing the bad distributor with a genuine new or rebuilt Mazda distributor? There are some badly "rebuilt" aftermarket units out there that may not last very long. I read a number of complaints about bad aftermarket distributors for Mazda Millenia. A Mazda mechanic specifically warned about these aftermarket units because he saw many of them fail prematurely.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

In '94s and '95s specifically, the ignition module (which is integrated with the distributor) would occasionally go into thermal overload, shutting down the engine. Usually it would restart after a few minutes, but the recovery time would continue to get longer and eventually would reach infinity.

The fix is indeed to replace the distributor. (Mitsubishi, if I remember correctly, was the supplier of the offending component.)

windowphobe6 · January 2004

The gain in performance is not so much in stopping distance as in fade reduction: the holes allow heat to dissipate much faster, meaning you're far less likely to stomp the pedal for the fifth time in half a mile and discover that you've boiled the brake fluid.

dhoff · January 2004

Unfortunately I didn't read the posting about this until after the work was done on my car. But, fortunately the shop used a genuine Mazda part. The owner told me he has had trouble with bad rebuilt ones in the past, and the Mazda part was only $20 more than a generic rebuilt. And, it came with the cap and rotor, the generic did not.

The part has a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty. The car ran fine on my way into work this morning. It started right up, even though it's -12 F. Brr.

Dave

lewshel · February 2004

The dealer replaced the rear suspension bushings in our 2000 626LX V6. There is still an intermittant noise from the right rear, not necessarily when we go over a bump. Any clues?
Thanks

p100 · February 2004

As I mentioned before, I have a 99 V6, and have not experienced this problem so far. I would look for the source of the noise as follows:

1. Look at the obvious -loose spare tire and tools in the trunk - the spare must be tighly screwed down and properly centered in the spare wheel well. The spare wheel well cover should be properly installed as well. Look for any loose tools that could be on the bottom of the hweel well.

2. Inspect the car on a lift and check the exhaust hangers, muffler and exhaust pipes and shake them hard enough to see if any components hit the car bottom when shaken

3. Check the fuel tank straps to see if any are loose

4. Perform similar inspections on various underbody car components. I discovered a torn driveshaft center support bearing bushing on my 95 Nissan pickup by conducting such an inspection. Replacing the bearing/bushing cured an annoying driveshaft vibration which could not be solved by wheel balancing. Then I found out that the driveshaft support bearing bushing failure is common on these trucks. so it would not be a bad idea to go to your Mazda dealer and find out what are common problems concerning suspension and underbody components on Mazda 626 cars.

edpagan88 · February 2004

I too had this problem and had the bushings replaced.but the problem came back a week later but not as loud. i discovered that when i touch the brakes or raise the emergency brake handle a little bit it goes away. i had all my brakes done and it still does the same thing. now i'm thinking it has something to do with a brake line or cable.no one can see what the problem is. the brakes work great, go figure.

p100 · February 2004

It is possible that the noise is caused by loose rear brake pads rattling inside the caliper. You mention that the noise goes away when the emergency brake is slightly engaged. Mazda uses metal brake pad spacers between the caliper and the pads. If these spacers are missing or installed improperly, the pads could move around slightly and make noise (they are captured inside the caliper even without spacers so this would not be a safety issue). When you had your brake pads replaced, they should have reused the spacers or install a new set. Also, when you install new rear brake pads, it is important to turn the piston in (by turning a screw with an Allen wrench) just enough to take up slack between the pads and the rotor.

Note: the Allen screw is only on the rear calipers and you retract the piston by turning the screw, not pushing on the piston with a C clamp, as you do on the front calipers.

Several months ago I read some complaints about Mazda RX8 brake pads rattle.

zoomzoom626 · February 2004

I got it too just been to lazy to get the stuff out of the trunk and trace it..brake pads theory sounds interesting!

edpagan88 · February 2004

thanks again for the quick response. will check it out when it gets a little warmer. the noise is very low and not bothersome.
thanks again

zoomzoom626 · February 2004

p100 I noticed the same thing on my car...when standing at the light the other day, however my knock would only happen if I'm pressing the brake...If I let go of it I don't hear it any more...what could be the source of this noise?

p100 · February 2004

The knock seems to be RPM related. When I turn on the A/C, the RPMs go up slighly at idle and the knock disappears. I suspect the same is happening when you step on the brake at the red light (I assume you have an automatic). The RPMs will drop and you hear faint knock. I asked a Mazda mechanic today about the source of this noise - he did not give me any clue. I suspect it may be one of the valve lifters. My car does not have hydraulic lifters though. I will try to run several cans of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system to see if it helps. They say it also decarbons pistons and valves.

zoomzoom626 · February 2004

No mine is 5 sp but I still have tu use the brake sometimes while sitting at the light :-)...as far as carbon build up I would use Auto RX to clean up the engine...I just bought it and will use it in spring when it warms up...I don't think there is much of the build up anyway since I use synthetic in mine. I don't think that valve lifer is the source..the frequency of the knock is way to low for it to be valve lifer...

p100 · February 2004

I am well familiar with hydraulic valve lifter sharp knock when they bleed dry. I used to have a 92 Protege with hydraulic valve lifters and after I changed the timing belt, water pump, cam and front crank seals (dit it myself and took a few days to do it after work) and then started the car, it fired immediately, but sounded like a bucket of bolts for about five minutes. I am not that familiar with solid valve lifter clatter so I would not rule out that possibility. But I agree that the frequency of the noise is lower than would be expected from a noisy valve lifter. I will try to talk to some other Mazda techs, maybe I get lucky and somebody will know that the problem is. I never used Auto RX that you mentioned. Who sells it and how do you use it? I used GM top engine cleaner in some other cars. This product does a great job removing carbon buildup.

zoomzoom626 · February 2004

I heard about it on the oil forum(http://www.bobistheoilguy.com)...
People who used it had pretty good results with it...you can get it on line form their web page...
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

lewshel · February 2004

It IS the replacement pads on the rear discs.
The brake shop did not have one of the clips that keep the calipers snug.
Thanks

shopinful · February 2004

I have to say, I have loved and babied my Mazda 626 V6. Handed it down to youngest son when I bought my 2000 Avalon and he has also babied it. Always had it check, tuned, you name it. Making noise and wants to change gears while stopped. Mazda dealer says transmission and not worth putting more money into. It only has 85,000 miles......not happy!!! Just last year put lots of money in it getting everything perfect for son to take to college. Because of this major problem I will never buy a Mazda again. There is no one that has taken better care of a car. Live in Florida so weather has not been a factor and always garaged. Anyone else having same problems? Daughter has one too so am going to suggest she trades before it gets too old. Car is still going but dealer says could last a while longer or could go soon.

qbrozen · February 2004

have you ever had the transmission serviced? (flushed and filled, etc.)

shopinful · February 2004

Yes, have had it all done when I needed to. That is what is so upsetting. My husband says we have put more money in this car than any we have owned.

carguy58 · February 2004

I would have thought it would have been the 4 cylinder tranny because its Ford. I read its the v6 and I am kinda shocked.

windowphobe6 · February 2004

The GF4A-EL has generally been decently screwed together, but it's a fiendishly-complicated device, even by the standards of contemporary automatics; I have a Mazda service manual for the darn thing and I can barely make heads or tails of it.

Still, there are vastly more complaints about That Other Tranny.

p100 · February 2004

My 99 ES V6 has 80K miles on it now. The transmission is a 5 speed manual. Absolutely no issues with either the transmission or the original clutch. It is obvious that these cars are a lot more reliable with manual transmissions. And a lot more fun to drive.

skibry1 · February 2004

Our DoubleOught has only 46K and has been trouble free and a blast to drive. 130HP is plenty when I get to adjust the RPMs to my liking!
Zoom/Zoom

maxx4me · March 2004

I passed inspection today, despite the fact that both of my tie rod boots are leaking grease. So now I have one more year left on the car (maximum) to run it into the ground. My current list of problems includes:
1. slow leak from my 2nd rack and pinion ($900)
2. weak engine mounts ($400)
3. burning very small amount of oil (priceless)
4. failing tie rod boots ($250)

I'm guessing it would take about $1500 to fix all the nitnoid things on this car. That still leaves me with my 3rd Ford transmission lurking underneath. Who knows how long that will last.
Sight unseen question: will the torn tie rod boots cause some kind of catestrophic failure which will require repair, or if I simply stay out of potholes and stop splashing in water puddles will I be able to get this car to September when I can see the new Accord hybrid engine? I really don't want to spend a dime on the 626; my Malibu Maxx is sitting there waiting to be bought the second this car fails, but I sure would like to see if I'll be able to change the oil in the new Accord before I buy the Maxx. Thanks in advance.

rotarykid · March 2004

maxx comes with wheels that are too small from a style standpoint, also corny rear roof glass, dvd player/screen had to be replace twice(while in stock) and IMO just ugly.......good news is..it's cheap.

danyek · March 2004

My 2000 626 LX-V6 has hollow sounding clunks when going over several small bumps. Checked the trunk for loose items, checked below the chassis for loose brackets, etc, but to no avail.

However - when I grabbed the rear sway bar, I could move the sway bar to the right and left wheels by about 3". Is this indicative that the sway bar bushing is worn? The ball joints look good.

Any suggestions on the noise would be greatly appreciated - it's driving me nuts!

rotarykid · March 2004

the rubber bushings that support the rear sway bar are probably the culprit. they cost $7.00 or so, and labor at my dealership to replace is around $35-$45.

pat · March 2004

Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!

slickdog · March 2004

My '00 LX-V6 just went in to the dealer yesterday for clunking in the rear suspension. They're telling me a sway bar link is loose and in need of replacement. Didn't look under it myself, but it sure sounded loose.

They're ordering the part for next week so I have the car back, but they must have done something to tighten things up a bit, because it doesn't clunk as much as it did before yesterday.

This is the second time getting the problem corrected on my car, first time was in May last year under the B2B warranty. Fortunately, this time is also a freebie as I'm still under the 12mo/12Kmi parts/labor warranty from the first repair job.

wongpres · March 2004

For rotarykid, p100, windowphobe6, or anyone else.

One of the lights behind the green gauge backlighting has burned out (so now part of the speedo is really dark at night).

So my question is can this be a do-it-yourself job to replace the lightbulb? If so, what needs to be done to reach the lights behind the gauges? Or, do I need to get a dealership to do this?

The vehicle is a '98 Mazda 626 V6 AT

Thanks.

windowphobe6 · March 2004

This is DIYable with a little bit of caution. You'll need to pull the driver's side panel off the dash; the "meter hood" (the plastic surround) is held on by a combination of clips and screws (four of each, if I remember correctly). Once that's off, two more screws and you can lift the gauge cluster right out; the bulbs pop into the back.

rotarykid · March 2004

the bezel around the meter assembly has clips and screws behind OTHER dash components(side panel, lower dash panels, etc.,) and 5 or 6 electrical connectors that can be stubborn(especially the mirror adjust switch). My dealer will charge you $35 in labor to change the bulbs(change all of them while you are in there).

carguy58 · March 2004

Eliminate the number 1 and you got 626.

maxx4me · March 2004

right.....the exact number of things that have gone wrong with this car since I bought it!!

Mazda 626

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles