Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda 626

18889919394100

Comments

  • Yes the timing belt was replaced so was the water pump,head gaket,and radiator flushed. But the problem persists and he says now something about some rings might be messed up. Also he says the check engine light is not coming on anymore.
  • illmaticillmatic Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1996 mazda 626 and it has some problems or it might have some problems.
    The check engine light always come on and I don't really know why. Maybe some of you guys can tell me what could be the cause or what kind of problems can i be looking for in my car.
    Also there is a sound that i here in the transmission box when i press the brakes.
  • rokoszrokosz Posts: 2
    Hi Folks,

    I backed up against a rock after sliding off the road and snapped the sway bar links.

    Looked simple enough to replace so I got the parts. Now I've spent the last 2 hours trying to remove the old sets. I got one upper off but the other three are frozen.

    the other upper i can turn with a visegrip -- but can't get the allen/vise combination to loosen.

    the lowers I can't seem to get steady enough leverage because the bar itself wants to move.
    :mad:
    I've had the bolts wd40'd for 2 hours now. I've tap, tap, tapped until my ears hurt and wire brushed the threads to clean them. Still no luck.

    Anybody have any suggestions? Is there a dremel attachement that'll cut nuts and bolts?

    thank you all
  • can anyone tell me if it is common procedure to have a cylinder head shaved when replacing a head gasket. This mechanic put on a new head gasket only and there is water in the first 3 cylinders and only like 16 pounds of pressure. I have a mazda 626 1995 2.0 engine
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It depends on if the head was warped from overheating of it the gasket surface was rough. In those cases, it's common to shave the cylinder head in order to get a smooth straight mating surface. If the gasket surface isn't straight and smooth, it will leak and cause problems. Sounds like your mechanic didn't take the time to properly check for this.
  • can any one tell me where i can find a second hand
    Mazda MX-6 1994 4 cyl. 2 plug MT Distributor #DTR58761
    and order online?
    i found a new one on web
    but it cost about $178.00
  • I just locked my keys in my 95 626. I was wondering if there was anyone who could give me a few hints about unlocking it myself. Please HELP!
  • I have 96 Mazda 626 4cyl. automatic tranny. I was wondering if you can put a throttle body and Idle air control valve from a 93-2001 probe into my car? I was told they are interchangable. would like to know before I buy the part. :confuse:
  • I love my Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl. I was wondering who would win from 0-60, a honda accord 4cyl, toyota camry 4cyl, or the mazda i would like to know for future references. :)

    Thnx
  • What model year are the cars (1990, 1995, 2002, etc) and are they manual or automatics?
  • 1999 and all auto tranny's
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The Accord would win by a long shot. The Camry was no speed demon with the old 2.2 liter but it would probably beat the 626 due to the meager torque output from its 2.0 liter.
  • ericb1ericb1 Posts: 2
    I am a new member with 144K miles on my 94 626. 4 cylinder/manual tranny has been a great vehicle since new in 94. However, a rough idle and constant tailpipe misfire has started. Already replaced the distributor (autozone), plugs, and wires recently. Running a bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner right now for the first time. Haven't checked compression, but it drives great except at idle. Any thoughts from the group on injector cleaning, idle air valve (?), etc. would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hi!

    :shades: Just picked up a 1993 626 ES (Chronos) with 160,000kms (100,000 miles) and want to ensure that it runs reliably for a long time. I've got a few questions for which I haven't been able to find answers using Google. The car is in great condition. The only faults I'm aware of are: cracked windshield, a few nickel sized dings, power antenna stick going down, questionable water pump, low rear pads.

    :confuse: Is it possible to get computer codes in this car without a code reader? Where is the OBD connector?

    :confuse: Is there anyplace to find instructions for some of the repairs on a 626 ES? The water pump is questionable on this car. If I'm going to the trouble of changing this, what else should I consider? I'm thinking that the timing belt is something to check. This car doesn't resemble a Ford Probe - Is the Haynes/Chilton book really common between these cars?

    :confuse: Can anyone suggest an automatic transmission cooler? Any preferred mounting location on this car?

    :sick: My power antenna grinds when coming down. Is there a "quick fix" or "lube" that I can do? It does not appear to be bent. I have disconnected the power to it to save wear on the gears. \

    ...any comments/suggestions/etc. are appreciated! :)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I just replaced the coolant overflow bottle on my 99 ES V6. I had one of these botles start leaking at 40K miles (replaced under warraanty), and then again at 117 K miles. Easy to replace, but the thing sells for $ 90! I got it for $ 70 from my local Mazda dealer.

    At 120K I will replace spark plugs (got them from sparkplugs.com), plug wires, accessory drive belts, and rear sway bar bushings. Just installed a new set of Michelin MXV tires. The car still runs and looks great at 117k miles. No other problems so far. :)
  • my mazda 626 pulls great but idles rough specially when the aircon is on. give me an idea that causes to idle rough, also when to change the timing belt?
  • I have an intermittent problem that keeps getting worse, but of course everytime I take it to the shop the car runs great. When I am accelerating (even in neutral) the engine will cut out. This happens when I reach around 2500 RPMs. I will keep hitting on the gas, but the RPM needle will drop all the way down to 1500 RPM, and the car operates jerkily between 1500 RPM and 2500 RPM. Sometimes it will catch and the RPMs will spike up, but then it will bog down again. When the problem first started, it only happened with the engine cold, but now it will happen anytime. I've almost gotten stranded in intersections twice, and it looked like I was a driver who had never driven a stick before. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I have narrowed it down to many possible faults. Either the fuel pump is going bad, the computer is cutting fuel (the problem used to be corrected by turning off the car and turning it back on, but now that doesn't do it), one of several valves has gone bad, or a sensor is going bad. These intermittent problems are frustrating to fix. If anyone has had similar problems, or might know what is wrong, I would greatly appreciate any insight. I've already done the simple stuff, like changing the fuel filter, cleaning the fuel system, and replacing the spark plugs.

    Thanks, D
  • The lines running coolant through your ICS motor sitting atop the throttle quadrant might be clogged causing the rough idle. I had a similar problem years ago and I had to feather the gas at stops to keep the car from dying until I could get the lines cleaned out. I found the problem by getting it hooked up to a diagnostic test stand. If the car idles a little high, I have been told by Mazda that it is within spec for the car to idle as high as 1500 RPM with the engine cold, although it shouldn't be rough.

    I believe the book calls for the timing belt to be checked at 60,000 and changed at 90,000.

    Take care, D
  • I locked my keys in my 1995 Mazda626 twice and was able to get in through the passenger door using a wire coat hangar. If you want to try it, undo the hangar, then take the hooked end of the hanger and shove it between your window and door frame about 3-5 inches in front of where the door lock popup is. Then just fish around until you get it to catch and you will see the lock pop up. Before I had locked my keys in the first time I had taken apart the door, so I had a pretty good idea of where all the linkages were. Hope this helps.

    Take care, D
  • I hate to point out the obvious, but you asked. The check engine light usually comes on because there is something wrong with your car. If you take it to nearly any mechanic, they will be able to hook it up to a diagnostic test system, and it will give them the fault codes that will tell what is wrong with the car.
Sign In or Register to comment.