Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Chris
Including incentives and freight, I paid about $15,300 for an LX automatic last year. Figuring $480 for freight and $800 for the automatic, you did at least as well as I did.
Chris
our Doubleought Freeport. With fuel approaching
$2 a gallon our 4cyl was a very wise move.With
15500mls our last tank was 29mpg,mixed urban+
city. We're looking forward to the 6digit mileage
club some day! ThumbsUp
Some people feel the 4 cyl is underpowered. I say you can counter act for that by driving aggressively. Aggressive, albeit safe driving can make up for lack of horsepwr. Where I live (WA), most people are conservative drivers. Maybe if I lived in SoCal I would need about 20 more HP. That's all I got to say.
People drive insanely here in Oklahoma, but I get by. In fact, I usually get past.
Does this sound right? Have any of you gotten better pricing? Thanks.
Thanks.
I'm one of those people who changes tranny fluid and green coolant every two years (although my current 626 has the orange stuff), but then that's just me.
At least give your tranny a fighting chance. I now have lubeguard in a transmission that was damaged in a wreck and it smoothed it right out. I have gone 40,000 since then. Replacing other fluids like brake and power steering also is a cheap way to avoid expensive repairs later on.
I learned the hard expensive way that it is much better to spend some money on maintenence, rather than a full repair later.
At the very least, the owner should write it up for My Mazda, or whatever they're calling that page these days.
Milage: 1500miles/2300km
It slightly accellerates end deacellerates.
As if my foot is nervously trembling on the gas pedal.
Several MAZDA dealers told me:
all new injection cars have it,
and they can't do anything about it.
Will be over after 15000km.
Anyone similar experience?
Does it really get over? When?
Pls mail to: we4u@home.nl
I went with Dino 10w30 and the valve tapping is less noticeable. I had used 10w40 last time (not much different, really). It's summer so I didn't want to go with 5w20.
-juice
cprentice mentioned having a 2001 626, and there are a couple of us with the very-much-similar-but-slightly-older 2000 model.
I bought a 2001 LX 4 cylinder automatic in February. This is my fourth Mazda and I like the car. I have had only a few minor problems with it. The only complaint is that I get an oil smell sometimes. The dealer did some "repairs" to correct the problem but it's still there. It's going back (again) the week after next for this problem. You know, if there is a car on the lot with even one problem I'll be the guy who picks it!
A few small things that I don't like, there is no power lock switch on the passenger control panel, the clock is part of the CD player and there is no dash indicator for the auto transmission gear. Since you want a manual the last item won't be a issue for you.
As for the Camry or Accord, I like the Camry although you'll pay a bunch more to get the same equipment. The Accord is a different story, I sold my '92 to get the 626. I had a bunch of trouble with it and this stopped me from considering a Honda again. Hope I didn't ramble too much!
Tony
Joyce
(Potential side issue: I run 34/30 on tire pressure, slightly above Mazda's recommendation.)
www.roebuckmazda.com
Look under parts.
They sell mail order and have the 626 mat set for about $55.
Tony
Tony
Richie
I continually hear a grinding noise when I turn the steering wheel either when the car is not in motion or in motion. Anyone heard of this, and what should I tell the dealer to look for?
Thanks
Dan
A/C compressor is gone and clicking away like mad when the AC is turned on and you can't drive highway speeds when it is hot out with the A/C on or the car will over heat. Driver's side window jams on the way up and down and needs manual assistance, as does the drivers side rear window.
Rear suspension is out of whack so a decent alignment is impossible and tires are chewed through in no time (Eagle GT 2's expensive). OK so those are the problems and if anyone has any cheap fixes let me know as the dealer wants $350 for the window regulator replacement and $700 for the AC and another $700 for the rear suspension all of which I thought were way too expensive and as this is the family's back up car (or at least will be when our 2002 Odyssey arrives) I didn't bother getting them done.
OK despite the above and the increasingly expensive service visits I really like this car and the way it handles. I have maintained it very well but have driven it really hard and it has served me very well and is comfortable despite being 6'4" and 240lbs.
Basically it has really spoiled me. I just test drove a Volvo T-5 and found it so lacking in the low end torque compared to what I have been used to and even tried a BMW 528i wagon and while that was peppy the connection with the road wasn't as good as I feel with the Mazda nor was the visibility. Interior driver space was also an issue.
Perhaps I have been driving the Mazda for too long and everything else is going to feel strange and lacking in some way.
Does anyone have any cheap fixes for the above problems and as this is now my car to play with does anyone know of any after market mods like a chip, super charger, exhaust, upgraded brakes, sport suspension kit, etc.
I saw that CR has this down as one of the cars to avoid, makes me doubt them as other than the issues mentioned above the engine in this car has been really great and trouble free (02 senors did get replaced).
FWIW I have had no problems with the fuel system to date and have always used 93 octane. I absolutely noticed a difference in performance the one time that I tried a few tanks of 87 and 89.
Over on the 626 topic in Maintenance & Repair, you can hear from lots of grieving owners of '94 models.
There is a detonation sensor in the V6 which permits the use of lower octanes, but, as noted, at a price in performance.
I'm having trouble imagining what sort of rear-suspension ills would run up a $700 tab, unless it includes replacing four links and both struts.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also, what grade gas you using? I use regular and, supposedly, would get even better mileage with higher grade.
How many miles are on the car? My '99 definitely got better over time. That 25 number didn't even start happening until I got the odometer over 30K miles or so.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
First let me mention to all that your forum has been extremely helpful, thanks! MY question: I have the opportunity to purchase a one owner 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6 automatic with 7200 miles (being sold since unexpected child on the way). It has moonroof, Bose system (with single CD disc slot, leather and the seats have SRS Airbag on them so I assume side airbags. Not sure yet if it has ABS or traction control (wife has to ask her husband who is traveling. For all intent and purposes the car is mint, no faults. The firm price is (non-negotiable) is $16,400 . I would appreciate your feedback on it's value and asking price and any suggestions one may have. Thanks in advance!
Best thing to do is go over to the Real-World Values board and ask Bill and Terry to give you the trade-in and private sale prices on the car. ABS and traction control will make a difference, but probably not too significant.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The price seems fairly reasonable to me. Edmunds TMV pricing shows an average for a certain area. The question is... how much do you value the vehicle? A brand new 2001 model with the equivalent equipment can be had for about $22,500 with some serious negotiating. This vehicle only has 7,200 miles on it and you are saving over $6,000. Ask yourself... what else can you buy for $16,400? Certainly not a new car as nice as this. You can find a used car for this much, but how often do you run across one with mileage this low? I say go for it!
Also, you need to consider how long you plan to keep the car. If you want to sell it in a few years, the Camry, even with more miles, will probably be worth more.
I'm really love my 626, but if the Mazda dealer doesn't come down in price, the Camry might be the better deal.