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Mazda 626

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Comments

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    The local dealer here used to send these things out for rebuilding; turnaround was pretty quick and the price, even including R&R, was on the good side of $300 for a pair. For this you get essentially brand-new boots on freshly-packed CV joints, which should have a service life fairly close to that of new ones.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Dropped off last night. I'll call to see what the verdict is. They're just opening now.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OK, $299 to clean up the axle, replace the boot, and repack the grease. He said the axle was fine, no need to change it. These are dealer prices and seem reasonable.

    But we also had that CEL and they want $366 to change the O2 sensor? $212 for parts? A Bosch sensor for the Miata was about $30, and I had seen one for the 626, a different brand, for about $70. Does that seem a little ridiculous to anyone else besides me?

    The tech says there are two sensors in the 626, and this one is "heated", whatever that means.

    By the time they add labor for diagnostics and all the other stuff, the bill hit $730. Ouch, ouch.

    We've only had one other out-of-warranty repair, for about $500, so $1200 seems reasonable for service in 6 years and 70k miles. But I'm not going back to the dealer for service any more, the parts prices are borderline ridiculous.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Some dealers just like to scare business away.

    A remanufactured Mazda axle retails for about $120 so I would hope that the dealer could have put one in for less than $300.

    As for the O2 sensors, suggested retail on them is $180.

    Greedy dealers.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm sure they are marking up prices above full retail, which is indeed greedy and will lose them business (including mine).

    I checked Trussville Mazda on-line, but where did you find that price? I'm picking it up tonight and would like to ask them to match the MSRP. A markup is ridiculous IMO.

    Thanks.

    -juice
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    My 1999 Mazda 626 (4cyl)has about 53k flawless miles on it. No mention in owners manual about transmission service. I've received conflicting info. from 2 different dealers. 800# for Mazda service said only change fluid if it becomes discolored. I believe in preventative maintenance. I'd drop the pan and change the filter but one Mazda service manager told me NOT to do that if car is shifting good. Said it could cause problems with the 4cyl transmission. What's a guy to do?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    That's out of the Motor's Estimating Guide. Just call around, some dealers mark-up beyond MSRP, some go below.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    After I complained about the high prices yesterday, today he called and told me the job was about $30 less than he had estimated.

    So my whining paid off, a little bit.

    The service was pricey but I still think that $1200 total in out-of-pocket repair bills is pretty good for 6 years and 70k miles.

    It does tend to justify an extended warranty, though.

    Have the ATF flushed at the 60k service. I've heard prices of around $100 or less, while a tranny costs 20 times that amount to fix.

    -juice
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It's mounted vertically and will fall on its side, and you still won't be able to get to the filter. (No, I don't know why Ford built it this way.) As Juice says, get it flushed at 60k, maybe earlier if the appearance of the fluid warrants. Last time I had this done, a dealer charged me $110; you can probably find it cheaper.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I flushed our Oldsmobile Silhouette mini-van with
    70k miles on it. It shifted fine until I had it flushed. Now it shifts hard. Every mechanic (other than those with the flushing machines) I've talked to since has told me to never flush - just drop the pan. Any of the transmission shops around here seem to back that up. Evidently, a lot of their business is a result of these flushing machines. One said it can fowl the valve bodies.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Really???

    I only drive 5 speeds, and the two gear oil changes I've done have only made shifting easier. In both cases I went to synthetic, so on cold mornings the difference is noticeable.

    -juice
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    On the other hand, you could make a pretty good case that a transmission that fails after a flush is merely succumbing to the inevitable a few days earlier.

    The CD4E, however, offers no options; the pan literally cannot be dropped. It doesn't work. There is no way to change this fluid other than to flush it. And the filter is completely inaccessible without major disassembly.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I read some of your other posts. How is a muck like me supposed to know burnt fluid from good fluid? It all smells a little burnt to me - even the stuff in my wifes van thats only got a couple of hundred miles on it. My local Mazda dealer doesn't have a flush machine - no wonder they discouraged me from any preventative maintenance on my 626. Could a good Ford/ Mercury dealer take care of this since some of their vehicles share the same tranny? I hate to mess with it while it runs so good - but I do have 53K highway miles on it. Couldn't hurt to have it changed. I also have a 100k Mazda warranty on it but don't want them to renig if I take it somewhere and have it flushed and they say "thats not in the manual!"
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    While you should always check the level when the transmission is hot, I've found it more useful to check the smell when it's cold - easier to spot traces of oxidation, at least with my none-too-wonderful nose. Your mileage may vary. :)

    Ford's own advice for the CD4E, swiped from a Contour manual, is as follows:

    "Under normal vehicle operating conditions, transmission service (transmission model CD4E) is not required unless 5,000 mile fluid inspections reveal either contamination or discoloration of fluid, or transmission exhibits functional concerns."

    They're not too worried about it, in other words, but you ought to be eyeballing the ol' Dexron on a regular basis, before you start getting "functional concerns". If it doesn't look like it's the color of Luden's Wild Cherry, you're due for a change. And if you show up at a Lincoln/Mercury dealer, they may be so surprised that you know it's the same tranny bolted into the Mystique that they'll forget to overcharge you. (Well, maybe not, but it's worth a try.)
  • claywaterfillclaywaterfill Member Posts: 534
    I'll be in the market for a mid size sedan. As it will be primarily a commuter (probably 90% of its miles) and I have kids who always need something, I was looking to keep it around $16,000. I know this limits my choices, but I had to draw a line somewhere. Anyway, a local dealer is advertising a 2002 626 LX with the power goodies, automatic and sunroof for about $15,700. I was wondering if there were any thoughts on buying one as I have not heard many great things about this 4 cylinder engine (performance wise, not reliability wise) and I know this is the last year for the 626. Thanks for the feedback.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I don't think you can go wrong with 626. I have a 99 with the 4cyl. I have 53k trouble free miles on it. I just wanted something different from a Taurus, Accord, or Camry. I think the 626 is much better looking and probably every bit as reliable. My only complaint is gas mileage. When my dad's Oldsmobile with a 3.8 litre v-6 gets 31 mpg and I'm getting only 25 to 26 on the highway - what does that tell you? That really irks me. I'm not crazy about having to change the timing belt at 60k either. That will probably be a costly item (labor wise). Good luck with your decision
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I don't think you can go wrong with 626. I have a 99 with the 4cyl. I have 53k trouble free miles on it. I just wanted something different from a Taurus, Accord, or Camry. I think the 626 is much better looking and probably every bit as reliable. My only complaint is gas mileage. When my dad's Oldsmobile with a 3.8 litre v-6 gets 31 mpg and I'm getting only 25 to 26 on the highway - what does that tell you? That really irks me. I'm not crazy about having to change the timing belt at 60k either. That will probably be a costly item (labor wise). I cruise all day long at 75 to 80 mph and the car does fine. Its never used any fluids. I change the oil at 3750 miles. Changed the plugs myself at 30k (Easy to do). Acceleration is like a rocket but who cares. Its a good highway cruiser. Good luck.
  • dayokayodedayokayode Member Posts: 31
    I think you're getting a good deal. Take the car for a test drive and see how it performs in heavy traffic and on the highway. Pay particular attention to the transmission performance within town; are the shifts relatively smooth or rough? Also, you need to be aware of your driving style; if you've got no patience for the initial/seeming slowness of the 4cyl, I'd suggest you go for the v6. If the performance is adequate for your needs, then I'd say go for it. Otherwise, you should be able to get an lxv6 auto, without some of the 'goodies' you referenced in your message, for around the same price.

    As a person with a 'lead foot', I decided not to buy a 97 626 4cyl I leased for three years (even though it was an excellent car that never let me down). Instead, I bought a 00lxv6 which looks great, is fun to drive and smooth on the highway, and has also been very reliable.

    Good luck.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Patience is a virtue. :)

    Actually, in the 13 months I've had the '00 LX, the only times I've felt the need for more ponies have involved really short onramps and really bad blind spots. During my 4500-mile trip this summer, I cruised mostly at 70 to 75 mph and managed a tick over 29 mpg, despite the fact that this was July and the A/C was therefore cranked up to Glacier. Getting past members of the Anti-Destination League is a simple matter of stomping the loud pedal far enough for the CD4E to realize you want second, not third. (Hit it hard enough and you can actually do fourth-to-first, which will scare the hell out of any passengers you may have, especially if they happen to notice the 6000 or so revs on the tach. Reason enough, in my estimation.)

    125 hp is really not enough for a car this size, but unless you are personally affronted by being second off the line when the light turns green, it's bearable, especially if you don't flinch at 4000-rpm shift points.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    How do you manage that 29 MPG? I've never gotten better than 26. Tires are always at 32 psi - even though the door sticker calls for the rears to be at 26 (never understood that either). I've got "60" size tires with the aluminum wheels. I've always wondered if my tire size had anything to do with my lousy mileage. I'm not a lead foot and the many highway trips I take with cruise set on 74 mph would negate that anyway. Have you perhaps done any special tuning?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I have no idea. I have done no particular tuning, and I'm running the stock 205/60R15 tires. I run 34 psi front, 30 psi rear; the reason Mazda specifies a higher pressure in front is most likely because the front tires are supporting more weight than the rears.

    The worst segment of the trip was around 27 (fighting the freeways around Austin in 105-degree heat); the best was nearly 33, over the Pennsylvania Turnpike. I didn't believe it myself. In town, I get right around the predicted 22; I managed under 20 once, but that was in the dead of winter and there was an awful lot of idling in place, which of course scores 0 mpg.

    Maybe it's just a sample variation. I can't think of any reason why I should be doing so well and you shouldn't.
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    The 20+ months we've had our Freeport with a
    clutch the MPG has been upper 20s or lower 30s!
    I've not done any preformance upgrades either.
    All mods were for comfort. I will admit the higher
    MPG was on long hauls,entire tank burned @ 70mph.
    Our 130 ponies matched to a left-leg-flexor has
    plenty of umph for me! I don't see myself as
    one with patience....Zoom/Zoom
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Do you have the 4 cylinder or the 6? I got 26 from my LX-V6 automatic on the highway. I don't think 29 out of the 4 banger should be too much to ask. As a matter of fact, for the performance loss, I would expect even more than that.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    The 4cyl wit a clutch keeps me happy+smilin'.
    Zoom/Zoom on the mind!!!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I've got a 99 4 cyl 626. I haven't ever gotten over 26.something mpg. Very dissappointing. Oh well - everything else has been fine.
  • vonn1vonn1 Member Posts: 26
    I posted a while back about my 96 626 4cyl auto with 67000 miles hesitating around 2100 and 3500 rpm. Both a local garage and the dealer could not find any problems with the car. The garage (who I trust) thought it might be the Mass Airflow Meter, but they did not want to just replace it without knowing for sure as it is a very expensive part. Some of the faithful posters on this site thought I might me seeing signs of the dreaded 4cyl auto failure. I had the tranny flushed a week ago for $79 bucks at Rapid Oil Change and the problem still exists. I don't think it's the tranny as the problem only exists at the two rpm points. The car shifts fine and no other tranny problem signs are noted. I had tranny issues with a 89 Accord and this is very dissimilar. I am wondering if anyone has any other ideas? I do a lot of work on my cars and I expect them to run without a hitch. I am living with this issue as I don't feel like dropping $600 bucks on a Mass Airflow Meter if I don't really need one. I welcome any advice offered. Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    can you be more descriptive of the problem? Hesitating meaning that, as you accelerate, it seems to pause at those rpms? Or if you try to get the transmission to downshift when at those rpms and it hesitates? Or ... well, I don't know. Give us a little more to go on.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Have you thought about new plug wires. I had a Celica that once had those similar symptons and all it needed was the new wires. Should be relatively inexpensive to see.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Our V6 was hesitating and a throttle body service fixed it. We also changed the spark plug wires and the plugs. Engine runs better than ever now.

    -juice
  • vonn1vonn1 Member Posts: 26
    Ok, here is more detail. By Hesitation, I mean that at 2100 and 3500 rpms the rev's quit climbing momentarily. It has nothing to do with when the car shifts. It almost feels as if it is losing spark or gas for a moment or two. I have given the car a tune up including: plugs, wires, air and fuel filters, distributor cap and rotor. I have even tried adding a fuel injector cleaning treatment to my fuel, but I really did not expect this to resolve the issue as it happens at the same rpms all the time. It seems to me it must be some sort of control module in order to be so specific in when it happens. The annoying thing is that no diagnostic computer can come up with bad codes. Most people may not mind this issue as it does not cause much of a problem with how the car drives. However, it bothers me, because it should not be happening. Juice, did your hesitation issue happen at the same rpms all the time? If so what repair was made to your throttle body?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would strongly suggest having a throttle body service done professionally. They force pressurized solvents through the entire fuel system to really clean it up, and the engine really felt like new after they did that.

    My symptoms were a hesitation at low rpm. It almost felt like it was going to stall, and made much less power across the range.

    I guess my wife slowly got used to it, but after the service it was like the technician had found about 30 hidden horses.

    -juice
  • vonn1vonn1 Member Posts: 26
    My 626 also lopes and seems as if it will stall at times. I will look into having this service done. I am doubtful that it will solve the main problem, but it can't hurt to try it. How much did the service cost you on the 6cyl 626?

    -von
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We spent about $500 last year, but they did the fuel system service, the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, a bunch of stuff.

    -juice
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    Juice,how many miles do you have? Should I be
    engaged in some extra PM to prevent our equestrian
    subjects from getting lost?!?
    Thumbs Up Bryan
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We have 70k miles now, but it happened about a year ago, 58k miles IIRC.

    Side note - we had used premium fuel exclusively, but that did nothing to prevent the clogging up of the fuel system.

    -juice
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    You can flush the 4cyl auto or you can drain and refill yourself, there is a drain plug in bottom of the auto trans case. It fits flush with the case (a bung type, not a standard bolt head) I've done my 97 a couple of times.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Not all slushboxes have 'em; I'm pretty sure my '93 didn't. On the other hand, the '93 could be done in traditional drop-the-pan style.

    How's your '97 doing?
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    Works alright, nice engine but auto trans not as smooth as a Toyota. Ford sourced parts not long lived ie battery, auto trans or for that matter anything else with Fomoco on it.
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    Have made the 20th payment w/ 21K on it. This is
    a sweet use of our 16thou and could'nt be happier!
    I have some fomoco parts under this Doubleought
    hood and I'm keeping on a strict PM program in
    hopes of getting to+ pass the 6 digit mark.
    Luv My Zoom/Zoom Bryan
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I've got 54K on my '99 626 (4cyl). I have recently gotten new car fever and have finally decided after driving every sedan out there that I'll keep my 626. It's an LX model with sunroof - red - and very clean. Still looks like a new car. In fact, a salesperson at a dealership wanted to know why I was trading in my Milenia! They do look a lot alike. There is nothing out there that I like that much better than what I have - when one considers the debt I'd incur. The bottom line is my car is still awesome. 54k and not a rattle, squeek or buzz in it. I'm thinking about adding something like a wood grain decal to the console - just to make it seem newer to me. I know thats crazy but $100 wood grain decal (which I think looks nice on the 626EX) might be enough to keep me from doing something stupid. Besides, I still have 43k left on my 100k Mazda warranty.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    It's always a good idea to "spruce up" your current car then to ge a new one, unless it's on it's last legs!
  • xfilesxfiles Member Posts: 132
    I would keep your car at least till the warranty is up. I have the same vehicle with the same 4 cylinder. I still have 59,000kms left on my power train warranty. With a warranty, and if it looks new, then why sell it? There are better things to spend your money on like fixing up the house, etc.

    I have the wood grain finish, it sure dresses up the interior of my vehicle. It is worth the extra money if you can get it. Good luck with your vehicle.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Where did you buy the woodgrain kit? I've been calling all over and surfing. There is some confusion as to whether or not one is even available for a '99 626.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Did you install the woodgrain kit yourself? If so- how did you do it? Does the original face just pop off or what? Thanks for any help or guidance.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    From what I have gathered about woodgrain kits, you simply install it on top of the current panels. It has a super sticky bottom to it that allows it to be permanently glued on. You can take a look at http://www.exoticwooddash.com for kits and examples. I'm sure they have one for your 626.
  • xfilesxfiles Member Posts: 132
    Sorry I wasn't clear about the wood grain dashboard in my car. It actually came with it when purchased. My guess is the dealership should have it, after all things get damaged, broken, etc. There should be a replacement, asked the parts dep't.

    I have seen wood grain kits before on the net, unfortunately I do not have a site to suggest at the moment. If I see one I will let you know. It really does dress up the vehicle though. Mine has the wood finish around the dash gauge set, around the center air vent area, then all the way down the center console and including around the cup holders, around the door handles, around the power window controls. It should be easy enough to attach, I assume it is a stick on surface and should go on very easily.

    Good luck!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    has some great kits. You can get a real wood kit for about $182 delivered. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
  • xfilesxfiles Member Posts: 132
    I checked out the site at wooddashfactory.com ! They had a photo of the installation only for the 94 model year Mazda 626. It is identical in color and style to my woodgrain finish. It sure makes a big difference for the added level of luxury. It is a small price to pay $180 to dress it up like that. I had he chance to see one in wood finish, and the other in plain factory dash finish at the dealer a few weeks back. Yu won't like the non wood black factory dash again!@ DULL!!!

    With the wood finish it's like having a completely new interior. You won't be wanting to consider selling your car after the modification.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I'm trying to get rid of the new car fever I've been feeling. I figure the woodgrain kit should help keep me driving what I've got for a while. Honestly, I can't think of a good reason to trade. I figure you can justify buying new if you drive the wheels off of it. Its nice knowing the car has been cared for.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Those of you who have higher mileage cars may need a fuel injection cleaning. I have a 2.2L engine that over the last year had diminished pickup. It just didn't seem to go as fast. My Mazda Specialist recommends an intensive fuel injection cleaning every 30-50K, depending on usage.

    After paying the $120 to have it hooked up to this special cleaning machine for a couple of hours the performance difference to me was incredible. The pickup it had originally was back, and it was certainly more fun to drive. It was running rough even though it had been "tuned" with spark plugs just being replaced last year. This service smoothed it out.

    No more tired car. Based on this experience, I really don't believe the gasoline companies who say their gas is all you need to maintain clean and fully functional fuel injectors.
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