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Mazda 626

1303133353667

Comments

  • If the transmission has never, ever been serviced, flushing might not be the way to go; while it's possible to argue that if a flush is enough to push a tranny into failure mode, it wasn't far from it to begin with, I'd hate to be the service advisor telling this to a client.

    Ford used to pass this off as service advice:

    "Under normal vehicle operating conditions, transmission service (transmission model CD4E) is not required unless 5,000 mile fluid inspections reveal either contamination or discoloration of fluid, or transmission exhibits functional concerns."

    I tend to distrust the very concept of "normal vehicle operating conditions", but for now, I'm just watching the fluid and taking notes.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I respectifully disagree with these Automatic Mazda Transmissions. My son had a CD4E tranny on his 1997 626. It worked just fine until 65K. Then, it wouldn't shift between 1st and 2nd without going into really high revolutions.

    Took it to my Mazda specialist. He immediately completely drained out all of the fluid, and added Lubegard. As a preventative, he recommends a simple drain and refill with Lubegard every 15,000 miles. He won national Mazda competitions just 3 years ago.

    No problem at all since.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Will the bottle do it? No. I added Techron, Valvoline, or Castrol Fuel System Cleaners as recommended. They did not work like the full fuel system cleaner.

    This was money well spent.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Actually, same here. Techron, which is generally regarded as one of the better detergents, did nothing to help my hesitation.

    -juice
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I've got an opportunity to buy the above car with traction control/abs/Bose system/automatic with 16k miles for $14k. Any feedback? I haven't paid much attention to posts about the V6 w/ auto powertrain. Its a very clean car and it appears to be a great deal to me.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The V6/auto has been reliable throughout the 626's life span.

    That's a good price for a car with so few miles. The original owner paid for more than 1/3rd of the total cost of depreciation and got only 16k miles out of it.

    -juice
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I am conflicted. Maybe you other 626ers can give me some clarity of thought. Should I keep my '99 626 LX 4cyl with auto. with 56k or retail it myself and buy this '00 EX v6 with prem. pkg and 16k miles? Here are some of the other factors:

    Current car: bought new - I know the history -always garaged and maintained. Mazda extended warranty to 100k (bumper to bumper with $50 deductible - just in case the tranny goes). Car has been extremely reliable. Hoping I could retail for $9500 - has sunroof/cd/cassette/sedona red/transferrable warranty to 100k.

    Proposed car: v6 with premium pkg incl anti lock brakes and traction control. Don't know history - car looks clean - at reputable Ford/Chrysler dealer. Color is "Chestnut" with tan leather. (any opinions on this color would also be appreciated) Dealer is asking $14,100. I would offer $13,100. Remainder of the 50k mile warranty.

    ANY feedback would be appreciated.
  • cknslscknsls Posts: 7
    I just brought a "used" 2001 626 ES/V6 with everything but traction control and ABS. It was sold by a private party. It had 5,600 miles on it. I got them down to 16,800. What a nice car it is. On the car you are looking to buy-I would go to www.carfax.com and check the VIN. If you do not have it, go back to the dealer and write it down. The cost is $15.00. If it checks out-buy it. By the way-I think the asking price on the one you currently own is high. Let's face it, Mazdas are REAL SOFT on the use car market. They are not like Honda or Toyota!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    Thanks - good info. Sounds like you got a great deal. Your probably right on my cars price. "Real world trade in value" board said probably mid 8's for a trade. Black book shows $8800 and Edmunds shows $7666. I would think I could get at least $9k with the warranty and the condition its in if I'm just patient. That means I'd be upgrading for my car and $4100 if I could buy the newer car for $13100.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    What will carfax.com show me? Will be able to tell if the car has ever been wrecked?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It would sort of be a shame to lose that long warranty you paid for. Then again, the V6 is nice to have. Totally your call, I could understand you wanting to go either way, ie. risk and cost vs. power and features.

    -juice
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,536
    the power leather seats is a BIG upgrade in my opinion. I would still be driving my 626 if only I had held out and gotten the ES V6. (knew i wanted the v6 and dealer only had LXV6 in stock).

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • tomcat630tomcat630 Posts: 854
    Keep the car with the warranty and then get a new Mazda 6 when they are out.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The new 6 does look like a big improvement. Lots more power, too.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Carfax shows problems with the title, like whether it's been owned by a rental company, or whether a full salvage title has been issued. You can also find out what states the car has beenin. I have had other things listed occassionally like inspections.

    What are the limitations. It rarely shows anything that doesn't show up on the State Vehicle Title reports. This can vary widely depending on the amount of information required to be entered on the title. I't not prefect, but in my view, worth the money.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    for the advice. I especially like the idea of hanging on and waiting for the Mazda 6 to come out. The cost per mile of driving from 56k to 100k should be the lowest - especially in light of the warranty I paid for. Its just so hard to appreciate what you have. Human nature I guess.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    especially when a better engine is in the newer models.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Posts: 854
    The Mazda 6 won't come out until early 2003, :(.
    It was unveiled at the Detroit Auto Show this week.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    Anybody know a good quick fix for a glove box rattling? It just started doing this after 56k miles. I can barely touch it and it stops. I'm wondering if a little peace of foam tape put in the right place might help.
  • Hi everyone i am about to buy my first car. I was advised not to buy a new car b/c i will be stressed out about marks and scrathes on it. Well i saw the mazda 626, 1993, and the dealer said that he will sell it to me for $ 3000. the car has 11500 miles, cassette player and looks fairly clean and attractive to me (a new comer to the driving world). please tell me if i am making a wise decision in buying it this week. i also would appreciate some questions u guys think i should ask the dealer before i pay for the car.
  • i my previous email i meant to say that the car has 115000 miles on it
  • Things I would certainly do after test-driving but before signing the check:

    • If this is an automatic, pull the dipstick and get a look at the fluid. If it's grey or brown or smells burned, walk away.
    • Check all the electricals - make sure they work. Not all of them are easy to fix when they don't.
    • If a little red light on the stereo comes on with the power off and the keys out of the ignition, ask the dealer if he has the antitheft code for it. Otherwise, first time you have to change the battery, the stereo is going to demand this code, and if you don't have it, you go tuneless.
    • Consider bringing in an independent mechanic to look over the car. This will probably cost you $100 or so, but diverting you away from a car that's about to run up six grand in repair bills is well worth it. I yield to no one in my admiration for the '93 626, but not even I would put up with that.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well, another round of repairs and $819 later, our 626 is back on the road (new left front hub and wheel bearing). I'm kind of disappointed, to be honest.

    The thing was perfecty reliable for about 5 years, but the last 2 years have brought on $2 grand worth of repairs, and 3 visits to the dealer. Not too happy about that.

    It only has 70k miles too, on a '95 V6/5 speed.

    Oh well, a good car otherwise, but I hope the streak of bad luck has ended.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    OUCH? You are going to have to give up your dealer loyalty at those prices.

    I count about $175 in parts and 2.1hrs of labor. So at $819 that works out to roughly $300/hr for the labor.

    Please restore my dealer confidence and say there is more to it.

    :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Already made that decision. Basically we went back after they had fixed the right front axle boot, thinking it was the same problem again (so it would have been free). Not so, so we got nailed for yet another repair bill.

    I will have to check the invoice, but I think that was it. These are the same guys that charged $220 for an O2 sensor, parts only. On-line I found it at Trussville Mazda for $160, and aftermarket it was $70 at Trak Auto.

    Never again will I go to that dealer.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I forgot about that! that could have been a result of them not torquing the axle properly. Was that on the same side that they did the repair? Now I'm full of curiosity.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    No, different side. I was hoping it was the same side, so they'd cover at least part of the costs.

    It lasted for 70k miles, not horrible but less than expected.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    My wheel bearing replaced only due to an accident cost $130.00. How much was yours.

    How much was that wheelhub?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The wife paid for it, so I don't have the actual invoice. I was just quoted the total cost of the job ($819, and that's after a coupon discount). Seems pretty outrageous to me.

    -juice
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