Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
This forum has been a pleasure to read and extremely helpful on problems with my 93CVLX. However, I have a new problem that I have not seen addressed previously. The air conditioner fan now only works in auto mode for a short while then quits completely. I have to set it at max hi for it run again. If I put it anywhere else in between auto and manual hi, it stops altogether. Has anyone experienced this problem ? Any ideas would be much appreciated. TIA Bedra
My '00 GM is, without a doubt, the best car I've ever owned. Gas it, service it per factory suggestions, and go! (I am aware of other's suggestions re: rear axle problems, etc.)
Ron35
Bedra
"It actually pretty easy. Fortunately I bought a couple of specialized tools in 92 that make the job much easier and less time consuming. On average takes about 30 minutes. You can alway rent the two tools I've described or carefully use the alternate meathod.
Tools Needed
Regulator ($45+-)
Drill
Pliers
1/4 inch (I think) drill bit
Hammer
1/8 inch punch (I think)
Vacuum
Large 1/4"? rivet gun
2 long and 2 short aluminum or better still nylon
rivets
Special tool is to mill off the existing aluminum rivet head (on the window glass) for easy removal. Imagine a short 1/2" diameter mill end with a hole in the center to use in your drill. The shaft from the rivet, in the middle of the head fits into this hole and mills off the rivet head. Facilitates pin removal with minimal stress on the glass.
From Memory
Disconnect battery.
Remove the door panel.
Pull window glass to 3/4 up positon.
Mill off rivet head from window. Need to align with opening in door. Gently tap out the rivet pin with punch/hammer. (or support back side of regulator at window rivet with piece of wood and knock out pin W/O breaking glass!)You'll need to reuse plastic/metal spaces. Metal to inside.
Use 1/4 inch drill to drill out rivet. (may need to hold back side of rivet with pliers if it starts to spin)Then do 2nd rivet at window.
Knock out other 2 rivet pins in door and drill out rivet in same manner.
Remove 2 nuts in window regulator at top center of door.
Disconnect elec wire from motor.
Remove 3 screws in door to remove elec motor. 1 or 2 of the screws only need to be loosened and motor will pivot out from open hole.
Manipulate and remove regulator. Dont need to remove window unless you want some more room (remove rubber seal at top first)It's a bit tight with the two studs at the top, jussut go easy.
Vacuum up all debris from inside door, floor and elsewhere.
Insert new regulator. Two nuts at top finger tight for now.
Connect motor to regulator hub. BE CAREFUL not to pull outward on hub. It may come out, wire and all.
Secure motor to door. May need some adjusting as you go.
Insert 2 rivets (do not expand yet)at door to regualtor.
Insert disks into window holes. Move window up so holes align with opening in door to insert rivets.Probably need to connect battery and raise regulator to position and insert rivets.
Align and fit rivets in holes and verify proper placement glass in track and regulator.
Secure rivets in door.
Secure rivets in window.
Tighten 2 nuts at top of regulator.
(an alternate to rivets is nuts, washers, bolts and lock tite. Be VERY careful tightening nuts in the glass. Very easy to get a bit strong and shatter the glass.)
Check operation of glass. Use silicon on track.
Replace door panel.
Now you're ready for the other side.
Secure rivets in window
It actually pretty easy. Fortunately I bought a couple of specialized tools in 92 that make the job much easier and less time consuming. On average takes about 30 minutes. You can alway rent the two tools I've described or carefully use the alternate meathod.
Tools Needed
Regulator ($45+-)
Drill
Pliers
1/4 inch (I think) drill bit
Hammer
1/8 inch punch (I think)
Vacuum
Large 1/4"? rivet gun
2 long and 2 short aluminum or better still nylon
rivets
Special tool is to mill off the existing aluminum rivet head (on the window glass) for easy removal. Imagine a short 1/2" diameter mill end with a hole in the center to use in your drill. The shaft from the rivet, in the middle of the head fits into this hole and mills off the rivet head. Facilitates pin removal with minimal stress on the glass.
From Memory
Disconnect battery.
Remove the door panel.
Pull window glass to 3/4 up positon.
Mill off rivet head from window. Need to align with opening in door. Gently tap out the rivet pin with punch/hammer. (or support back side of regulator at window rivet with piece of wood and knock out pin W/O breaking glass!)You'll need to reuse plastic/metal spaces. Metal to inside.
Use 1/4 inch drill to drill out rivet. (may need to hold back side of rivet with pliers if it starts to spin)Then do 2nd rivet at window.
Knock out other 2 rivet pins in door and drill out rivet in same manner.
Remove 2 nuts in window regulator at top center of door.
Disconnect elec wire from motor.
Remove 3 screws in door to remove elec motor. 1 or 2 of the screws only need to be loosened and motor will pivot out from open hole.
Manipulate and remove regulator. Dont need to remove window unless you want some more room (remove rubber seal at top first)It's a bit tight with the two studs at the top, jussut go easy.
Vacuum up all debris from inside door, floor and elsewhere.
Insert new regulator. Two nuts at top finger tight for now.
Connect motor to regulator hub. BE CAREFUL not to pull outward on hub. It may come out, wire and all.
Secure motor to door. May need some adjusting as you go.
Insert 2 rivets (do not expand yet)at door to regualtor.
Insert disks into window holes. Move window up so holes align with opening in door to insert rivets.Probably need to connect battery and raise regulator to position and insert rivets.
Align and fit rivets in holes and verify proper placement glass in track and regulator.
Secure rivets in door.
Secure rivets in window.
Tighten 2 nuts at top of regulator.
(an alternate to rivets is nuts, washers, bolts and lock tite. Be VERY careful tightening nuts in the glass. Very easy to get a bit strong and shatter the glass.)
Check operation of glass. Use silicon on track.
Replace door panel.
Now you're ready for the other side.
Secure rivets in window"
Thanks for any help. I look forward to owning what looks like it's going to be a great car.
Exhaust and wheels are the easiest giveaways.
was driving earlier, but I can't remember if it was before or after the problem occured, so I don't know if it was the original cause, or
the aftermath from driving with whatever relay involved in the park lockout circuit activated. Anybody else ever have this problem? My wife is driving the car right now using the workaround, but I need to get it into the dealer if it isn't something I can do myself.
Thanks ahead of time,
Ted
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, and assume you meant the handling & perfornace package in that sentence, cause whether the car has dual exhaust, single exhaust, or whatever, has nothing whatsoever to do with rear end ratios.
an ex 1999 Crown Vic cop car for $6200 or a 2000 Grand Marquis for $13000? (I think the Merc has the HPP because of the lacy wheels and dual exhaust, but thought it was not available on the GS in 2000.)
of information available on various internet web
sites, I have reluctantly concluded that a de
sign flaw (gas tank situated behind rear axle)
is probably responsible, at least in part, for
the fires that sometimes occur after very high-
speed rear end collisions. Apparently, even
a high level Ford executive has conceded (I be-
lieve under by questioning by some plaintiff's
attorney) that more gas tank related fires have
now been reported with the CV than with the
notorious Pinto. That said, because of its laud-
able performance in both the NHTSA and IIHS-HLDI
crash tests, and its weight (which I've read de
creases the likelihood of occupant injury or death in the event of a multi-vehicle collision,
all other things being equal), I am interested in
purchasing a CV. I know of one municipal pol-
ice department that has arranged to have its ex-
isting fleet of CV Interceptors undergo fuel tank
modifications so as to hopefully reduce the risk
of fuel tank rupture and subsequent fire (fuel
tank bladder and safety-shield). My question is
this: as a private citizen, would I have access
to such services, and if so, are they affordable
(the definition of affordable, I realize, is highly subjective)? The foregoing question as-
sumes that one would have already followed the
recommendations issued by Ford in a TSB, the sub-
ject of which is reducing the fuel-tank puncture
potential of a hex-bolt which, by virtue of its
proximity to a vulnerable part of tank and its
sharp edges, could conceivably puncture the tank
in a rear end collision.
Since, I only drive about 7000 miles a year, unlike alot of law enforcement officers, is this
a case, to borrow from Shakespeare, of "much ado
about nothing?" Please, if any one can offer
any advice to help this writer put this thing in-
to perspective, it would be greatly appreciated.
If you've read the page of the Center for Auto
Safety's Web site which is dedicated to the Crown
you might wonder if this car is in fact safe (and
I know it is!!!)
Thanks for your consideration
Kinley,
My knowledge of Shakespear hath suffered much decline since my high school days. What was the Merchant of Venice about? (No, I'm not going to see the movie or read the book. Spoil it for me ;-)
The local dealer has dozens of the 03 and 02 GM's. I've "bounced" by pushing down on the front and rear of each car and you can easily tell that the 03 are much stiffer. Stiffer even than 02 LSE's.
I was considering buying an 03 GM or Ford CV to augment my 94 GM but the ride issue has made me change my mind. My 94 GM is much smoother riding with much less impact harshness and even a quieter ride than the new cars.
I'm glad to see that someone else has noticed this and maybe Ford will get the message that this is unacceptable to their largest audience for these cars.
There is no way to adjust the ride rate of the rear air spring - only the ride height. As of the 02 model year there were only 3 different air springs: standard cars 92-94 at about 75 lbs/inch. standard cars 95-02 at about 89 lbs/inch and handling & performance at about 114 lbs/inch. I do not know if the 03 air spring rates are different.
You can replace the air springs with steel coil springs for about $250 parts and an equal amount for labor or you can replace the air springs for about the same amount of money. This assumes the rest of the air spring system(compressor,sensors,tubing,etc.)is functioning properly.
If I want to go through the twistys, I take my '91 Miata stick shift; if I want to go from point A to B quick, I take my '86 Honda 1100 CC Magna; but, If I want to drive up 300 miles to Chicago to visit my daughter and haul a lot of her stuff, I take the '00 Merc GM. I expect a good ride on a long haul with passing power. I also expect 150K miles out of the vehicle.
Those Auto mag guys grew up thinking a MiniVan/SUV is the state of the art in ride quality and good mileage. I have a '90 Ford Pickup to get that kind of ride and mileage.
I too noted the slightly harder ride which accompanies the better handling. Frankly, I don't understand what consumers seek when they opt for a "handling" package or complain about a "squishy" ride. I had a 1996 GM before this one and it didn't seem to hold the road on turns as well as my 2003. The speed sensitive steering in the 2003 gives me a feeling of a more solid ride but again I don't know what what people want from better handling.
Does a feeling of solid control on the road have to be a trade off for smooth riding over bumps?
I would point out that Mercury made a special point of touting the new suspension features of the 2003. To my untrained view, these features result in a more stable but perhaps less cushiony ride. I suspect that the firming up of the 2003 relates to the introduction of the Marauder which shares a common platform. I doubt that Mercury would want to go through the expense of separate frames for the Marauder and the GM so the the GM has benefited (or suffered) from this.
Lowering the tire pressure (within prescibed limits) might help the rough ride a bit. I am not sure whether I prefer having a firmer ride over a softer ride if that becomes a choice. Again the 2003 GM spells out extensive suspension changes which sound pretty good to my untrained ear.
Incidentally, where and under what circumstances can a GM be bought in Britain? What about the location of the driver's position?
I think I like my 2003 GM very much but I am very suggestible and until the posting about the smoothness of the ride, I thought it was doing well on that score.
I'd like to hear more of what led you to buy a GM in Britain (where in Britain incidentally?) It seems that with the cost of petrol and the typically narrow roads in your beautiful country, one would have to be quite deliberate in wanting to drive an unmodified GM there.
Gene