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Mike
Trust the work to a transmission shop for sometimes the "experts" at jify lube install the wrong filter. Good Luck.
Mike
14. FUEL:CARBURETOR:UNKNOWN TYPE:MANIFOLD:INTAKE NHTSA Number: 619445
Bulletin Number: 01M02
Bulletin Date: MAR 2001
Vehicle: 1997 Ford Crown Victoria
Summary:
OWNER NOTIFICATION PROGRAM REGARDING ADDITIONAL COVERAGE ON CERTAIN 4.6L SOHC SOME OF THE COMPOSITE INTAKE MANIFOLDS USED ON 4.6L SOHC ENGINES MAY DEVELOP INTAKE MANIFOLDS. SOME OF THE COMPOSITE INTAKE MANIFOLDS MAY DEVELOP FATIGUE FATIGUE CRACKS AT THE COOLANT CROSSOVER DUCT. THIS CONDITION COULD RESULT IN CRACKS AT THE COOLANT CROSSOVER DUCT. *TT ENGINE COOLANT LEAKAGE WHICH, IF NOT SERVICED, MAY CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING. COMPLETE LOSS OF COOLANT MAY RESULT IN ENGINE DAMAGE OR ENGINE FAILURE. *TT
If you want more "engine braking" take it out of 'Overdrive'. When in O/D and you take your foot off the gas, it's really in "COAST" until you get down to 37 mph, then the transmission shifts down to 3rd.
Thanks
Each model year has it's own quirks but none of them are really bad. Early 90's tended to have more trans issues while late 90's swapped that for resin manifold failures - still overall about the best american autos from a reliability and longevity standpoint.
My headlight covers on my 95 CV turned yellow and I read from another website that using toothpaste for polishing the surface will remove the yellow oxidation. I tried it and it works nicely. I have been polishing the covers for several years now. The fine sand in the toothpaste works effectively to remove the layer of oxidation.
Funny how so many of my friends assume the CV is a 'gas guzzler' -- I don't think it worse than an Explorer or other largish SUV. I get 23-24mpg with a light right foot. I'm sure SUV's are right around there or worse. Anyway, my wife is totally sold on this vehicle now -- she really appreciates the quiet, serene ride as compared with a small Japanese car. The CV is the best kept secret on the used market.
My temperature gauge sits near the bottom of the 'Normal' range most of the time. I'm a little worried the engine is running cool...does anyone else experience this? Seems to me the gauge should be in about the middle of the normal range. I just flushed the cooling system but that shouldn't make much difference.
But anyway, plugs-wires-labor = $183.68
And since I never really studied my bill until now, I'm a little surprised I let them get away with charging me $5.41 a plug...
Runs great though, and I get 25 on extended hwy runs.
It is the labor that costs. Was at a tire store the other day when an elderly man asked about plugs on a 91GM. They looked in their book and labor was 2.5 hours. I just got an 02 GM and also have a factory CD maintenance manual, so I looked at changing the plugs. From memory; remove the big plasic cover over the engine, i think you have to remove the tube from the air filter to the throttle body, unplug the wire connection to the coil on each plug, remove the coil (one small screw/bolt each) blow the dirt/sand away, carefully lift the coil and boot. (don't remember if coil and boot come together), remove the plug. Turn the instructions upside down and put the new ones in.....
I plan to change my own probably around 50K even though the books says they are good for 100K. If you want, let me know and I'll try to post word for word what the instructions are of perhaps I could e-mail to you if you want.
Kit Distributor Wire FMC F8PZ 98.76
Hazard waste chg 9.50
Sub total 298.26
Sales Tax 26.25
Total Charge 324.51
NO new plugs were installed, just the wire(s)
A Belated Christmas present to me.
Pacific Lincoln is no longer in business.
: )
Must be a Lincoln thing. In the mid eighties my dad had an '84 Town Car. When he bought it, one of the hubcaps was a cheapo plastic K-Mart one so he went to the L-M dealer to price a new one. I think it was in the neighborhood of $180 for one. So he went to a little hubcap shop and bought a close match for around $40.
Thanks!
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I've a 94 and 03 GM and can tell you that the real big improvment is the steering. The ride, however, is jiggly and busy due to much more shock damping. Nowhere near as smooth as the previous cars. This is probably less noticable in the TC as it has a longer wheelbase and uses the slightly softer rear air springs standard.
Resin manifolds sometimes fail as early as 30K miles and as late as 140K - or never! If the uncertainty of it bothers you, it can be replaced for about $300 parts and 3-4 hours labor.
I removed the locking wheel cover brackets on the steel wheels because I could not get them to stop rattling, I think they are a bad design. Also, the honeycomb wheel covers have been making clicking noises, I think they are a bad design too, I took them off so I am presently going for the "black look" . I'm going to try to fix the wheel covers, I think I know why they are clicking.
As for overly firm spring rates, god only knows what manufacturers are thinking, we don't race our cars, try www.coilsprings.com, I got 20% less front springs and 30% less rears and it helped alot, but if I could do it again I'd go down about 40% from stock in the front, and 35% from stock in the rear. I recommend them.
Happy motoring.
2.) Whenever we turn the steering wheel even the slightest bit, it makes a loud creaking noise. What is the source of that and how to stop it?
3.) As the car is high mileage now, I was wondering when should we expect to replace the transmission/have it rebuilt? Our Chevy Caprice went out around 130,000, and it is a much heavier car, so I am wondering when the other shoe will drop. Or, will it last longer because of the fact it is a lighter car?
4.) Starting to get more engine knocking. What causes this and how to stop? The owners manual says its somewhat normal if it is minimal.
Thanks for all of your help!