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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008

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Comments

  • dkowasicdkowasic Member Posts: 13
    Yep, that's what I have. Do you happen to know how many watts per channel is stock from this setup?

    Don
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    sure doesn't sound like very many watts does it.

    I'll see if I can find out.
  • emsb101emsb101 Member Posts: 1
    I bought 99 taurus se few days ago.
    I was thinking that the lumber switch of electric
    seat(pushing or retracting waist part of seat)
    was making clicking sound when push or retract.
    But it's not making sound when retract. The salesman says it's normal because the air goes down when retract. Is this normal or should be fixed ?
  • zslickzslick Member Posts: 11
    Color me unimpressed for the same reasons you are impressed. We have a 98 SE with the Vulcan engine that behaves the same way yours does. We had it addressed right before the warranty lapsed. The dealer gave us some BS explanation of the cause being a bad air valve adjustment screw and replaced it. The behavior remains, albeit to a lesser extent. I drove two manual transmission cars prior to this and I find this lack of control extremely annoying. Yes, the car does feel fast beyond its 145 hp rating, but if I wanted the feel of an Audi 5000, I would have bought one. I have driven late model Ford Escorts and Contours that do not exhibit this behavior. Our other car, a 1994 Mercury Grand Marquis, does not exhibit this behavior either, feels much faster, and gets the same MPG!!! When I find myself in the market again, I will gladly spend the extra bucks and put up with the extra girth of another Grand Marquis.
  • dkowasicdkowasic Member Posts: 13
    I know, the more I listen, the more I want to add a small amp. Sony has an Xpold amp that is 40 watts per channel X4 w/ a built in adjustable EQ for front and rear that can be had on Ebay for under 200.00 bucks. I'm going to see if there is a wiring harness adapter for the Taurus. I really don't want to cut the wiring harness if I don't have to. I sure a modest amp will make the head unit and my upgraded speakers sound 100 times better.

    Don
  • brianr5brianr5 Member Posts: 9
    I am new to this topic and hope someone can help me. I am considering a 2001 SES with the Duratec engine. When I test drove the car I noticed a lag in the transmission as it upshifted from 1st to 2nd. I noticed this under hard or light acceleration. It took approximately 1/4 to 1/2 second to complete the upshift. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it common or could it be a problem isolated to the car I drove? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • perkylizardperkylizard Member Posts: 2
    Car "shutters" at 35-40 mph and 55-60 mph only while accelerating, not while coasting.
    If I put a little pressure on the brakes at 50 mph or higher, the steering wheel shakes back and forth. Brand new car: <400mi. The car goes to the shop in 3 days. Has anyone had similiar problems and how did they fix it?
  • auser2auser2 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 Taurus SE with leather interior and the 24v Duratec engine for $20k
    All I can say is: ALL KINDS OF PROBLEMS
    Hood pops open (day 1)
    Steering is TOO noisy (day 1)
    Transmission is stupid (day 1. there is no fix, it's the way it is)
    Poor, poor brakes (day 1. again, that's the way it is)
    Below 15MPG in the city (day 1)
    Brake light stays on and drains battery at night. The car won't start next day (second and third week)
    Dashboard pops up (second month)
    Transmission cable broken. (6,000 miles and 800 miles away from home)
    Electric start failed five times so far (10,000 miles)
    Steering is noisy again
    Leather interior is SO cheap, has several cuts already.

    However, there are some pros, like:
    Engine is very powerful
    It is really fun to drive it.
    Trunk and interior are HUGE.
    Vehicle handles excellent in the wet road
    30MPG in the highway

    Anyway, this is my LAST ford.
    You can get a RELIABLE vehicle with the same money.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    a) 20 grand for a new car these days is pretty cheap. Don't expect much from any auto maker for 20 grand. Even a 20 grand Camry, although well built...won't impress. Certainly Dodges, Saturns and Chevy's at 20 grand are just as cheesy.

    b) maybe you should've taken an extended test drive. Perhaps a rental. Thirty bucks woulda helped you see whether you liked the car before you bought it.
  • spyin78spyin78 Member Posts: 4
    I have had several Taurus' And now I have a 2000 Taurus SEL. I have seem to have had much of the same problems as others.

    Brake lights not going off...fixed
    Air-bag light staying on...not fixed


    -TRANSMISSION-
    But I have developed some new problems in the past few days. I was driving the Long Island Expressway a few nights ago, and I noticed that when I was cruising at 60, the RPM's would jump to 3 and then slip back to 2, and the car would jolt. It was rainy out, cold, so I attributed it to the weather. Then last night on another highway, it was doing the same thing, mid day, cool and calm out. Again, crusing at 60 and the same thing. I also take my foot off the gas, and it would jump up to 3, but not accelerate. When I came out of the mall, and started the car, the "service engine light" came on, and stayed on. Has anyone else had this problem.


    -STARTING-
    Also, starting the damn thing is sometimes near impossible. Sometimes it takes several attempts for it to start. I read in the manual that the PATS key, can not touch an alarm fob. But I sometimes do everything short of a "Tribal Rain Dance" to get it to turnover.

    -STARTING...THE SEQUEL-
    And this morning, as I was leaving my house, I tried to start the car, and it wouldn't even crank. Everything was working in the car, and I know that all lights are on auto. I did my little ranting, raving, cursing, and smoking dance and eventually it started... again has anyone had this problem?

    -MACH AUDIO-
    ALSO! I have the MACH audio system, and I noticed a high pitched frequency coming from the speakers. Is this something that can be adjusted. It is rather annoying. And there seems to be a rattle comming from the front, driver and passenger side
    door pannels when the bass is pronounced in music being played.

    -IDENDITY CRISIS...WHERE'S MY "L"?-
    And, since I do have an SEL.. and it only says SE on the back. I would like my "L" I payed for my "L" I want my "L". Is there a way to get this?

    -RECALL.. WHAT RECALL?-
    Does this PCM recall have to do with my, my car was made in April. Bought in Long Island, NY, in July 2000. It's a 2000 SEL.

    ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME! LOL E-mail me if you like at spyin78@aol.com.

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • 99taurus99taurus Member Posts: 20
    The lumbar support on my 99 se does not make funny clicking noises. When I got the car the hose was not connected to the motor and so it did not pump up the support, it just made a motor noise. After repaired by Ford (warranty) it has worked fine. I myself don't care for it, but it does work, without a clicking noise.
  • bluesovalbluesoval Member Posts: 3
    Have any of you had problems with an aggravating front-end wobble like I've got in my '99 Taurus DOHC? It's not really noticeable until you get on the highway at 65+ mph, and, then, there it is. It didn't do it when it was new last December. But it started about April. I've had it in to the dealer numerous times, and they've done numerous things, but nothing makes any difference. I sure would appreciate any insight.
  • dkowasicdkowasic Member Posts: 13
    I had the same problem with a 99 Chrysler 300M. After 5 visits back for the same problem they had the tires checked with a computer to see if they were in fact round. 3 out of the 4 were out of specs (out of round). Chrysler replaced all four Goodyears with brand new Michelins (sp) under warranty. Keep up the pressure, they are hoping that you just go away. Your problem might not be tires, but in the absence of a mechanical problem you might want to have them check the tires. There is a new balancing method that has been used in the truck industry called "equal". It is a fine grain put on the inside the tires to continuously balance the tires. Go to equalauto.com and read.
  • fordman33fordman33 Member Posts: 32
    I have two questions for you on the CD changer, as I am thinking about installing one.
    1) Where did you buy yours? prices on the internet are all over the place...
    2) Where in the trunk did you install it? I'm concerned about piling luggage around it.
    Thanks.
  • fordman33fordman33 Member Posts: 32
    Is anyone on the forum driving a Taurus with the Vulcan FFV engine? If so, have you had the fuel delivery system recall work done? I took mine to the shop yesterday. The shop guys said the replacement of the fuel delivery module (I believe thats what it was called) would improve gas mileage. Performance seems even better than before, but we'll see about the mpg. Just prior to the recall work, my mpg improved to an average of 25. I have gotten as good as 31 on the interstate; hopefully the numbers don't plummet now....
  • fordman33fordman33 Member Posts: 32
    Just to clarify, I was talking about the 2000 Taurus with the Vulcan FFV in the last post.
  • dkowasicdkowasic Member Posts: 13
    I bought mine at a local audio store, but Crutchfield.com has the KDC-665 for $199.95 and if you look under car audio accessories, you can locate the harness adapter. I recommend the PIE brand. It is what I used. Just match up for your model year Taurus.

    I mounted my changer to the left of center by the left speaker. I had to use some stand offs as my mounting surface was ribbed. I used some stand offs from when I put up a bunch of peg board in my garage. They work great!

    Don
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    The upcoming 5.7L V-8 powered Impala SS preview:

    http://www.luckyjdr.homestead.com/ls1impala.html
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    Negative. The Impala SS has been confirmed to enter production for the 2003 model year. It will be equipped with a V-8 and FWD; however, what's not too clear is which engine size will make it to that bay...5.7L? 4.3L?
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Your posting belongs to another board: "My car is better than your".

    Except you even do not have the prototype 5.7l Impala. And, probably, never will: most likely, GM killed the trim and it will not enter in production.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Thanks for information concerning production plans for the future Impala with V-8 engine. The last time I saw the same pictures:

    http://www.9c1.com/pictures/ls1_impala/index.htm

    the plans were unknown.

    Still do not consider right to tease the people on this board. Or any other, except if specially intended for teasing.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    Ok...I am a naughty boy sometimes...love to tease! But you are right...apologies.
  • 99taurus99taurus Member Posts: 20
    I have recently purchased a 10 disc Kenwood (KDC-C715) and the adapter to put in my 99 Taurus. The Best price I was able to find for the CD Changer was 174.95 plus shipping for the KDC-C715 (10 disc) and 164.95 plus shipping for the KDC-C665 (6 disc) at http://www.sbhcorp.com/strken.htm#cdchanger.
    The P.I.E. adapter cable I purchased at http://www.audio-etcetera.com. They listed the adapter at $89.95, but were willing to match a lower priced add at http://www.audio-warehouse.com/pie/pieindex.html for $77.00 (with purchase of the CD changer at $205.00). Since AudioEtcetera.com did not carry the CD changer, they matched the price any way at 77.00 plus $10.00 shipping to Utah.
    If you are in the market for a CD changer all I can say is look around. After a few hours on the web I was able to find many prices that just kept getting lower and lower. Theses may not be the lowest prices, but I am satisfied. As far as mounting it, that would depend on what you carry in your trunk. The most common are on the Drivers rear Quarter panel in the trunk right by the radio controller, or like some one else mentioned, next to one of the rear speakers under the "third brake light".
    Kenwood also makes an FM modulated model of both the 10 disk and 6 disk that runs a bit cheaper (10 disk KDC-C515 $199.99, and 6 disk KDC-C465 for $189.00) but the signal is converted to analog and broadcasted on a FM station. Not as good of a frequency response as using the digital input with the converter above. It will sound as good as your best received FM station, but about $70.00 cheaper.
    I hope this has helped a few of you. TTFN
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    I have one in my '96 Sable and it....SUCKS!!!!! If I had another inexpensive option I would've gone that way! I would NEVER go this route again!!!!!ANYTHING, even a portable w/ a cassette adapter, is better!
  • chuxdadchuxdad Member Posts: 7
    Sorry about the double-post. That's how cold I am!
  • chuxdadchuxdad Member Posts: 7
    No Heat!!!!!!!
    I currently have a '98 24v SE sedan. I have suddenly lost my heating capabilities. It only blows cold air. The A/C works fine (really cold air) and the engine temp. gauge is where it always is. Checked all the fuses and found none to be blown out.
    What's the deal? Anyone else with this problem or know how to fix it? I even changed the cabin air filter 2 months ago (boy that really makes a difference in A/C cooling.
  • chuxdadchuxdad Member Posts: 7
    I currently have a '98 24v SE sedan. I have suddenly lost my heating capabilities. It only blows cold air. The A/C works fine (really cold air) and the engine temp. gauge is where it always is. Checked all the fuses and found none to be blown out.
    What's the deal? Anyone else with this problem or know how to fix it? I even changed the cabin air filter 2 months ago (boy that really makes a difference in A/C cooling.
  • fordman33fordman33 Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the helpful info on the CD changers; I definitely want one that will work with the controls on the radio (instead of the FM modulated).
  • 99taurus99taurus Member Posts: 20
    Usually in this situation, I would check the radiator fluid level. Even If you are not over heating. If you are full, well sorry it sounds a little more involved. Hopefully you are still under warranty. Good luck.
  • ohio7ohio7 Member Posts: 67
    Once I bought my SEL in June, the salesman promised to get me a tube of red paint and my very expensive "L" that I paid big bucks for. Well, I had to whine for two months for the paint which I finally picked up, but he never carried through on the "L". I guess once he got the sale, it was adios!!

    I then started calling and bugging the parts dept. FINALLY, in October, I got my "L"!!! They send you the entire name on a piece of plastic film. You just pull off the letter and carefully line it up with the SE and push it on. It's sticky on the back.

    Just keep being a nusance and say that the salesman let you down on this point. I told the parts guy that I WASN'T going away.
  • fordman33fordman33 Member Posts: 32
    Has anyone found a cheap(er) source for replacement cabin air filters? I checked with the parts dept. the other day and they quoted me a price of $31.95; lots o' cabbage for a paper filter. Mine was supposed to be changed 5000 mi. ago, but I took it out, vacuumed it, sprayed it down with lysol, and put it back in.
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Title says it all...

    TB
  • ocdocd Member Posts: 7
    I am the proud owner of a 2001 Taurus SEL. I purchased it back in October. The car handles very well in the snow as the mid west is under a snow attack as of late. I enjoy the 24v Duratec engine. I have no problems to report with the car. I have about 1,500 miles on
    it now. Anyone else have a 2001 Taurus? How has your experience been?
  • dkowasicdkowasic Member Posts: 13
    When things changed over to the new format, I had a heck of a time finding the forum again....I'm back

    Don
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    I know this is kinda late, but, did you change the thermostat? Your problem may be a stuck 'stat. Been there, done that
  • stevied070stevied070 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2000 SEL this fall right before the 01's became available, for just over 20k with tax. I'm pushing 5000 miles, about 75% interstate. It's no SHO, but the car feels like a 727 on liftoff when I shove the accelerator. The handling is superb (in rain, snow, and ice,) and the ride is comfortable and satisfyingly quiet: the only noise I consciously notice is the hefty drone from somewhere under the hood. Maybe you other guys are driving false SELs. I've had no trouble with the Mach sound system, power steering, brakes, or anything else for that matter. It's a great economy sports sedan, with ample bang for the buck. Incidentally, I also have a 96 Taurus GL that I've driven trouble free for these past 4 years. I take it from what I read here that I am the exception rather than the rule. Still, 2 for 2 on a controversial Ford product isn't bad, I'd say.
  • ocdocd Member Posts: 7
    I also have two Taurus'. I have a new 2001 SEL and a 1996 GL (with the touring package). Both of these cars have been excellent. I am very pleased with the reliability I've received from both of them. It's not too often you hear about the positive remarks in this kind of forum. I've had other ford products (Windstar/Explorer) and my Taurus' have been by far the most trouble free!
  • taurus2taurus2 Member Posts: 63
    I think Ford Taurus's are hard to drive. I have a 99 Camry and I love it. Well I was looking for an additional car so I checked out the '01 Taurus. I took it on a test drive and I had to press really hard on the gas to make it go. I felt like I had to have a lead foot to drive it. This really turned me off. Did any new 1st time Taurus owners experience this?
  • wkohlerwkohler Member Posts: 74
    Just bought a 2001 SES. Do not have to press any harder than on my Suburban or Plymouth. Perhaps sometime was binding.
  • ford10483ford10483 Member Posts: 1
    I am a new to the car buying challenge and I saw a 1999 used basic Taurus SE 24v with 21k miles on it for $8,900. I was wonder if that was a good price? Is it same engine as the 2000 and 01 models. Also what is the Hp on it as well as 0-60 time.
  • dkowasicdkowasic Member Posts: 13
    Love my car, it has 80k miles and still runs like new. However, the wind noise for some reason has been bothering me lately. All the gaskets around the doors seem to be sealing, but it just seems louder than usual. Are any of you noticing this condition and have you done something to improve the situation?

    Thanks,
    Don
  • tookie2tookie2 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my 2001 SE sedan this month. I love it! It accelerates like a dream and the ride is very smooth. But my one problem also is that I'm hearing a hefty droning (humming noise) too from the under the hood. Doesn't seem to affect the smooth drive though. Overall, i am very satisfied with my new vehicle and i feel very safe in it.
  • cjack1cjack1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a choice on my company cars between a 2001 Ford Taurus and a Pontiac Grand Prix SE. I am leaning toward the Pontiac Grand Prix SE because of its looks but I have a '98 Ford Taurus that has been great. I am also 6'1" 220 so I comfort is #1 for me. Could anybody give me some feedback.
  • charlied4charlied4 Member Posts: 1
    CHUXDAD-THE HEAT TO YOUR CAR IS CONTROLLED BY A VACUUM OPERATED VALVE IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT JUST BEFORE THE HEATER HOSE GOES INTO THE FIRE WALL. GET SOMEONE TO OPERATE THE CONTROLS WHILE YOU LOOK FOR MOVEMENT OF THE SMALL ROD COMING FROM THE VALVE. IT SHOULD MOVE AS YOU CALL FOR HEAT. YOU COULD ALSO PULL THE APPROX. 1/4" VACUUM HOSE OFF AND SEE IF THE ROD MOVES. IF NOT, TRY TO WIGGLE IT BY HAND. IF IT MOVES, CHECK THE HOSE FOR LOSS OF VACUUM. THE VACUUM IS DESIGNED TO EITHER HOLD THE FLAPPER VALVE CLOSED OR OPEN. THIS IS WHAT ALLOWS THE HOT WATER TO GET TO THE HEATER. IF THE ROD DOESN'T MOVE AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO FREE IT. YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE SELECTOR VALVE. MY 3 LITER MAZDA DEVELOPED A LEAK AND I HAD TO REPLACE IT. PART COSTS ABOUT $15. AT THE MAZDA DEALER. (IT CAME PACKAGED IN A FORD BOX)AND TOOK ABOUT 20 MINUTES TO REPLACE WITH VERY LITTLE LOSS OF ANTIFREEZE
  • sdysdy Member Posts: 2
    I am very glad to have gotten the SEL with the 24V engine, traction contol, etc. The car drives and handles well (even in the snow). My only problem so far has been the passenger and rear window controls occassionally don't light up at night. Could it be a loose connection?
    I also noticed that the steering wheel cruise control buttons don't light up at night. Is this right? The cruise buttons light up on my '97 Explorer and my friend's '98 F-150. What gives?
  • runmanrunman Member Posts: 3
    Recently purchased a new 2000 LX. Covered recall items after purchase included fuel module and fuel pump. No real problems as of yet during "break in" period. I have heard brake noises (squeals) are inherent with the model. Would appreciate hearing from anyone who is familiar with problem. Also welcome ANY feedback regarding the LX.

    Thanks in advance!
  • ehennessehenness Member Posts: 92
    For SDY in message 596---

    Check and see if the passenger and rear door window switches are locked out.

    On my '98 SE, I once noticed totally by accident that the passenger and rear window switches' lighting goes out when the power window lockout (on the driver's door) is switched on. I guess the lockout is accomplished by cutting the power to the other three window switches, which kills the lighting as well as the ability to lower the window from those switches. It's actually kind of a nice feature. I don't recall anything in the manual stating that this occurs. If the 2001s work the same, and your lockout is engaged, there should be nothing wrong. If the lockout is NOT engaged, then, yes, I'd suspect loose connections.

    The buttons on the cruise in my '98 also do not light. Although the 2000-up steering wheels are different from my '98's, it's probably the same wiring, etc. You can use the indentations and raised sections to determine which button/section you are hitting.
  • steves24vsteves24v Member Posts: 12
    I purchased a black 2000 SES-Taurus, 24V DOHC, in April 2000. I am an outside sales rep so I drive about 22K year. Today I have 16,500 miles on the car. 85% of the miles are for work. I added aftermarket leather (Nickle Interior) and a hands-free Nokia mobile phone kit ($300). I also had the windows tinted all the way around with medium Millenium Series Solor Film, a must for a black car in So. Cal.
    Here's my take on the car:
    I chose this car over the 2000 Honda Accord 3.0L-EX because of price. I paid $21,117 out the door for the Taurus(including leather upgrade) v/s the Accord at $24,800 out the door. I financed the entire $21,118 at 4.9% for 5 years - $398.36 month
    No problems at all with the car. Drives great on freeway and o.k. on city streets. Average 21 MPG.
    I'm 6'1 and the pwr driver seat allows me to go back further than the psngr. seat - wish I had a pwr psngr seat too!. Trunk space is great too when you need that bit of extra room. The only negative is the rapid depreciation. Poor plastic quality is noticeable and gap tolerances are not very tight, cheap looking..you know.
    Today my car is worth $13,778 trade-in and only $14,865 private party. V/S the Accord with 16.5K miles would be worth $17,766 trade-in and $19,137 private party. You can count on the first year the Taurus will depreciate 30% v/s the Accord at 20%.
  • steves24vsteves24v Member Posts: 12
    If you can afford it and have the extra cash now I suggest the Honda Accord EX-3.0L Sedan over the Taurus, especially if you purchase the Accord. The resale on the Accord v/s the Taurus in 3-5 years will more than pay for the extra $3,700 it will cost for the Honda. And...you will not have all the little annoyances Taurus owners have. You do get what you pay for. Next time I'm getting the Honda.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    The only Honda I've owned is a Civic. It was VERY tinney and VERY cheap feeling. OTH, I've had 4 Sable's, my latest a '96 LS with the Duratech. We have just shy of 100k on the odo with nary a problem. One doesn't buy a car as an investment anyway. Resale is only what someone else will pay for the vehicle. Try visiting the Honda forum and see that they aren't the utopia of autodom. EVERY car/company can and does have problems. The aforementioned Civic had a speedo that was 10% off, on the fast side. Not good when the miles actually driven are less than recorded! I'll take my '96 Sable LS over any Accord, in any catagory, any day!
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