Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

pluto5 · July 2002

The factory manual says to bleed off the fuel under pressure at the fuel rail. There is a fitting on top of the engine. You will probably have to get a tool from the dealer to do this.

tartan1 · July 2002

I have a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 85K. Lately it's been having episodes where the gauges start flickering and gauge needles jump up and down and it eventually dies. One instance, we had to have it towed because we couldn't get it re-started. The service department couldn't find anything after running diognostics on it again and again. Anyone have ideas?

backy · July 2002

My '99 GCS did that a few weeks ago. The cause was a battery that failed (literally failed, not just died) after 31,000 miles. After a day of diagnosis and a new battery, the problem disappeared. I don't know what else the dealer may have done to reset the computer (they said the computer was messed up from the failed battery).

chryslervan1 · July 2002

And we had decided on the 1999 Odyssey LX-C, placed a $500 NON-refundable deposit, and ordered a Granite Green LX on 16 March, 1999.
Four days later, we bought a loaded 1999 GC SE MSRP $27,490 for $22,590. Zero problems until 35,002 miles when coolant leak was noticed. Dealer replaced both head gaskets under warranty the next day and no more problems. Average fuel economy was 23.4 MPG for the 37,240 miles driven until we traded it in on a NEW 2002 Chrysler T&C eL on January 26, 2002.
Since it was such an exceptional vehicle, our daughter and son-in-law purchased from the dealer as soon as we traded it in.
We know dozens of people who own DC minivans and only 2 have had problems: Julie of Dallas, Texas had a used 96 T&C LXi that had an A/C problem so they looked at all minivans and did not like any as well as the T&C so they traded it in on a used 99 T&C Limited. They did purchase an extended warranty.
Dale and Heidi have a 96 T&C LXi they use to tow a large trailer. The van transmission had to be repaired at 180,000 miles and the water pump was recently replaced at 240,000 miles. They feel the DC minivan is the best vehicle for their needs.
I am pleased to read that DaimlerChrysler minivans now have very few problems and are recommend now by Consumer Reports along with the Odyssey and Sienna.

chryslervan1 · July 2002

We liked them very well on the 99 GC SE and just as well on the 02 T&C eL.
We miss the feature when we drive my sister's very nice 2001 Odyssey EX. They love to travel and have us drive the Odyssey home from the airport when they leave and drive it back to pick them up a week later when they return.
On a test drive for the 01 Ody EX, the odometer read 34.8 miles. On an exact repeat of the drive in our 99 GC SE immediately afterward, the odometer of the GC read 34.0 miles. After buying the 02 T&C eL we drove it on the same exact route and it read 33.8 miles. Apparently our gas mileage would be even better in our DC minivans if the odometer read "high" as in my sister's 01 Ody EX.
I can tell very little difference in the quality of ride in any of the 3. The T&C is the quietest of the 3 with the Odyssey very slightly noisiest. The Automatic Temperature of the Ody EX works flawlessly but I think the feature causes the vehicle to burn more gasoline as my brother in law does not get mileage as high as we do in the DC minivans. However, he may be a more aggressive driver and thus the lower mileage.
We set cruise at 75 MPH when my wife and I travel alone on I-15 to and from Anaheim but 65 MPH when there are 6 of us in the vans.

eneth · July 2002

There's no question about the fact that the improvement in quality and reliability of the new generation of DaimlerChrysler vans is directly attributable to the competition from Toyota and Honda - for all those years where there was no practical competition, Chrysler produced underengineered junk. Competition improves the marketplace - no question about it.

desertrat6 · July 2002

Our '97 GCS is overheating during city driving but not on the highway. Any ideas? Thermostat? Fan?

hersbird · July 2002

If it's mainly around town I'd say maybe it's not getting enouigh airflow through the radiator. At highway speeds you don't even need a fan at all, the wind at even 30 MPH will more more air then any fan will. So I'd check and make sure the dual electric fans are both coming on and spinning freely (keep your hands away though!) My Brother's 96's only problem so far has been that one of the fan's breings froze and they needed the whole fan assembly replaced for about $350. The A/C worked a lot better after that, and the frozen motor was putting a high electrical load on the alternator causing the belt to make strange noises as well. All was cured with the replacement of the fans. The fans may be fine but a relay to turn them off and on may be messed up, that would be a lot less then $350 to fix.

desertrat6 · July 2002

Thanks for the advice. My wife has it out of state on vacation and was taking it to a dealer (extended warranty). Just wanted her to have a little knowledge before she walked in.

spiritualquest · July 2002

I have a 1992 Voyager that has developed a problem with the door chime and light coming on without any apparent reason while I am driving down the road. It is really annoying. All the doors are shut properly. I tried to trouble shoot by pushing in the door switches to figure out which door is causing the problem, but to no avail. The overhead lights do not come on when it is happening. Could there be a central switch that could be faulty?

crkeehn · July 2002

With some of the newer vans, the sliding door has a series of plungers that make contact with matching pads on the frame. If the Older Chryslers use that system, you might try cleaning the contact pads with a pencil eraser.

vvg · July 2002

We have a 1999 Caravan Sport with the AM/FM/Cassette player. We would like to be able to play CD's. Should we replace the factory unit, or is there asingle disk CD player that we could add?

spiritualquest · July 2002

Hello, thanks for the advice. I did that, but made no difference. The bell rings constantly, and the "door ajar" light comes on intermittently. Any other ideas?

spiritualquest · July 2002

I am not quite sure if there is an auxilary port on the back, but you can check it. I had one on the stereo cassette I replaced the existing stereo with and then ran an adapter with a mini plug out from the back to a portable CD player which I mounted on a make shift console. That is one way. If you want a changer, you will have to get the same make as the stereo you have. If that is the standard one that came with your van, then you will have to go through Chrysler, which can be quite expensive.

vvg · July 2002

I've found quite a few AM/FM/Cassette/CD units for sale, from dealers and eBay for anywhere from $175 to $350. One dealers says the right # for the 1999 Caravan is #P04858579. But I've seen a number of units for sale that claim to fit, look pretty much identical externally, but have #'s of P04704383, or P04858518. While they fit?

Thanks!

xingze_cai · July 2002

I found that my 98 Caravan sports won't start as quickly and smoothly as it used to be when the engine is cold, it can still be started every time in the morning. If the engine is getting warmed, it can be started very smoothly. Any suggestions? Thanks!

pluto5 · July 2002

You might want to replace the battery esp. if you have the original. Batteries are so cheap you can replace them every 4 yrs. and not have to worry about a no-start. Wal-Mart has a good selection and cheap. When the engine is cold it's harder to start so a new battery may make a difference.

ereynolds · July 2002

My 1997 grand voyager with 100,000 miles will not always start when I turn the key in the ignition. The dash lights come on but the engine will not turn. After I remove the key and try again, it starts. I took it in for repair and nothing wrong could be found. The key mechanism (tumblers) were replaced and new keys issued. That was two weeks ago. The problem has re surfaced. Any suggestions?

chryslervan1 · July 2002

If the battery is low or if there is corrosion on the terminals, sufficient electricity is available to turn the lights on but NOT make the starter work.
There could also be a cable damaged so that it will not permit sufficient electricity to properly operate the starter.

browney · August 2002

I have a 2000 Voyager with the 3.3L engine.
The transmission went into limp mode at 36021 miles and the check engine light came on. (21 miles after the warranty ran out!!)
Luckily I purchased an aftermarket 7/100kmi bumper to bumper warranty from Heritage.

Drove it 4 miles to the dealer in limp mode(dealer said to do this instead of getting it towed).
Dealer said the input speed sensor was bad.
Also said the output sensor should be replaced because when the input sensor goes bad the output sensor soon follows. (sounds fishy to me but since the Heritage warranty will pay I don't care)

The main point of this post is because the dealer says the transmission fluid smells burnt. He suggests replacing the fluid and filter ($115).

I parked the vehicle within a few hundred feet of first seeing the check engine light.
I checked the transmission fluid before even calling the dealer. It did not smell burnt and was not discolored.
I have done my own vehicle maintainance and most repairs for about 30 years so I know a little about what to look for.

My question is why after driving the vehicle only 4 miles to the dealer in limp mode the fluid had a burnt smell?
Especially since an external speed sensor was the original problem.

Any comments from the mechanics out there about this?

eschlene · August 2002

I thought it was contacts on the passenger slide door. Nope. Turned out it was a scending unit inside the door. Repaired happily by the dealer.

eschlene · August 2002

I've had a new dodge GC sport for two months. I just read Edmund's review. Are we talking about the same vehicle??? I would be hard pressed to put any credibility to that reviewer's opinions again. The author really seemed biased...must be a Honda owner.

I've had Hondas, Chryslers, Mercurys, and now a Dodge. I've driven Fords, Pontiacs, and Chevys. I like my Dodge GC just as much as I did the Honda.

And the 'gimmick' trunk lid... you've got to be joking. I have kids and do a lot of home improvement hauling. That power liftgate, which I wouldn't have ordered had I spec'ed the vehicle, has been the most useful feature on the car. Nothing like it when you've got an armload of supplies...especially when it's raining!

E Schlene
West Lafayette, IN

dodgetodd · August 2002

I had the same door ajar problem in my '94 Voyager as spiritualquest describes in message 1314. I fixed it with a couple of small pieces of masking tape.

The sliding door has "plungers" at both front and back of the sliding door. The plunger at the *back* of the door was causing my problem. The metal on which it pushed had gotten slightly dented-in over the years and was no longer pushing the plunger quite enough. I used a few layers of masking tape to "build up" the metal where the plunger pushes it.

The problem went away. Of course I don't expect the "repair" to last too long, but long enough for me to think of how to fix it more permanently. And the price wasn't too bad.

Good Luck!

gmusic7 · August 2002

does anyone know how to remove the driver's side sliding door interior plastic panel? i want to get to the door lock and get that to work again.

broph · August 2002

My sister-in-law has a '97 T&C w/ 70K on it. It has developed a starting problem where it would turnover but not start. This has stranded her more than once & dealer cannot duplicate the problem & it doesn't display any codes. They had it for a week & it started every time. It mostly happens when it is cold & once when it was hot. I thought maybe a fuel sending unit going bad or fuel pump. I also thought maybe a crack in the distributor cap(she had it tuned up in Feb.)with all the humidity in the air. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

bettyg · August 2002

The engine light came on in our
van while we were on vacation in
Wisconsin...we took it straight
to a 5 star dealer where they
said it was an emission problem.
They smoke tested it but found
nothing. They reset it and said
we might not have tightened the
gas cap sufficiently but that it
wouldn't hurt to drive it. This
was on a Wednesday. We were on
our way home on Monday when the
light came on again. We had driven approximately 800 miles and had half a tank of gas. It
happened both times the first time the ignition was turned on
in the morning. We have made an
appointment for next week to take
it in again. Has anyone had this
problem? If so, would appreciate your input...thanks

chryslervan1 · August 2002

The Engine OBD Light came on in our NEW 2002 T&C eL at 787 miles. Took it in to dealer where the diagnostic test indicated faulty gas cap.
Since the original gas cap on the 02 T&C looked exactly like the original gas cap on our 99 GC, we took the locking gas cap off the 99 GC and put it on the 02 T&C. Obviously, the locking gas cap that worked fine on the 99 GC was NOT adequate for the more sensitive systems of the new 02 T&C.
We got a NEW locking gas cap for the 02 T&C and have had no more OBD light come on and the van now has 9600 miles on the odometer.

bettyg · August 2002

Will advise service dept. and ask
for a new cap. So far, this is
the only problem. We averaged
25 mpg on our trip to Northern
Wisconsin. Wish the sport came
with leather seats and a power
lift trunk...it would sure help!
Otherwise, love the van...

monty2222 · August 2002

I found a 97 Grand Caravan Sport with 54,000 miles on it for $8500. The small car lot that is selling it refurbs recovered thefts and flood cars. This vehicle had its nose in the water (not salt), did not reach interior, but engine siezed and was replaced with a 3.8 litre (original was 3.3) from a lower mileage '96 GC. He gave me the original owners name and number, all the title and papers when he bought the replacement engine. It looks and runs nice, and he will give a one year powertrain (Buyers choice) warranty. I test drove it and the check engine light is on, the AC button is sticky, but that's about it. He said they would be fixed, maybe just O2 sensor needed. I'm trying to check out the transmission, but since I have not driven these before I'm not sure if it has any signs of trouble coming. Works fine, but seems to me the shifting kind of slides from gear to gear, not a hard engagement. Is that the way it should be? There is no revving or obvious problems, maybe a little shuddering at about 55mph (overdrive engagement?). I read here about one test to do, checking the engagement delay when shifting from drive to reverse, etc. Can anyone who had tranny problems be more specific? Anyone see other likely problems with a van with this history? Thanks.

wg45678 · August 2002

Go ahead and buy the car -- if you want a trip to automotive hell. If you don't, take your money and run run run.

A car such as the one you describe is about worth it's salvage value and will cost you much more than that between the time you buy it and when you discover the only way to get rid of it -- now that ist is a 'salvaged car' is either to sell it to salvage yard or drive it back into the nearest river.

You will find nothing but continual problems with any car that has been submerged. Recommend strongly that you take anything you are considering buying to a trusted mechanic (even the brand name dealer's mechanic - but not one who works for the dealer where you are considering the purchase) for an inspection.

badgerfan · August 2002

The last year or two, the radio preset station push buttons-this is on the upgraded original equipment (Infinity I believe) stereo/cassette system-require a very hard push to get them to engage and actually switch radio stations. Anybody else have this problem and were you able to fix it without costing an arm and a leg? Anything one can do themselves to fix? I would hate to spend a lot of money fixing this, as it is a mere irritant at this stage, but if it gets worse than it is, the buttons may become non-functional.

safetyguy2 · August 2002

Have other owners of 2002 Town & Country and Grand Caravans experienced fuel leaks at the gas tank, specifically at the rollover valve? We've had two in our shop recently. Chrysler had to replace the whole tank.

xingze_cai · August 2002

I recently heard a noticable noise when changing to reverse gear the first time in the morning almost every day, the rest during that day seemed to be OK. I'm driving 98 caravan sport. Anybody got ideas? Thanks!

scbill · August 2002

I had a '88 with auto/od. 185,000 miles without changing fluid or screen and no problem. 1993 w/o od went out @110,000. It took (5) times for the guy to fix. Turned out to be a crack in the (new) radiator leaking fluid into the trans. 30,000 miles later it's running fine. Still bumping 22 mpg on the open road.

pluto5 · August 2002

We're on our third trans and had the clunk with the first two. Haven't noticed it with the new reman trans but it wouldn't surprise me. As long as your trans isn't slipping or otherwise malfunctioning there isn't anything to worry about yet.

monty2222 · August 2002

Looking for used grand caravan. Many do not have rear air. Is the AC unit itself bigger (more capacity) when the van has rear air option, or is it the same unit and just ducted to the rear also? Thanks.
Monty

peteces · August 2002

I am interested in purchasing a used Caravan (1998/1999), preferably with AWD and the 3.8 liter engine. What is all this stuff I hear about Chrysler transmission problems and is there anything else I should watch out for or expect. Are certain years better than others?I have also heard of electrical problems and body hardware issues. Any advice is greatly appreciated-
Pete

maw1982 · August 2002

I just bought a '99 GC ES AWD slate with gray leather. all options except rf rack and htd seats. 53k miles and 30 day warranty. I bought it from a dealer. It has new tires, hoses, and stereo head unit (cd player was skipping). It was checked by a dodge mechanic (done by a prospective buyer not the seller) and was given a clean bill of health. has a clear title (lease return). all it needs is a good detailing inside and out. I paid 10700 for it.

I did not want he awd at irst however it does include the rear disc brakes (not available on fwd) and load leveling suspension (impossible to find on fwd models used or new).

I think I got a steal of a deal but just want encouragemtn/opinions. I jumped on this one because reasonably-priced es models are few and far between (only other one available in the DC area was a fwd model with 80k miles for $14k.)

As for body integrity, this van drives solidly and quietly (no squeaks/ratles). It feel much more solid and has much fewer creaks and ratles than my parents' '99 Silhouette.

busterdog · August 2002

PLEASE provide feedback! I would be new to Dodges and minivans...looking at a 99 GC 3.8 L V6 w/ 23,092 mi and the 29 N package. Dealer want 16,000 but I am thinking 15,000-yes? Anyone have any comments on this car? It might even get certified. Is extended warranty worth it? How hard is it to remove the captain's chairs? I am a single woman and desperate for advice on this car and the offer I should make. THank you!

maw1982 · August 2002

For price, did you check edmunds price calculator and/or kbb.com? It is pretty good and accurate (especially edmunds).

If you think te price is too high, shop around. Where I live (DC metro area) '99 GC Sport models are comon (they were dodge's big seller at that time). When I went looking I found many sports but few Es models (what I wanted). See my post above yors.

As for seats, I have not played wth the seats on mine yet (just bought the van Friday) but have many friends who have these vans. The back seat would be impossible for most woman to handle (I am an average-built man and the seat is a chore for me to handle). The captains chairs are easy to remove but can be tricky to reinstall (watched a salesperson fumble with one in a 2002 model. If you buy this van and need cargo space, I recommend removing he middle buckets and roling the back bench up to the middle postion.

Hope this helps

BTW, where are the caravan owners to answer our posts. I would love to ear other's opinions on the deal I got.

iaamee · August 2002

Hello roomie! I have a problem with my cruise control. Since yesterday, my 1998 GC 3.8L won't hold speed when going uphill. When i press accel (the cruise function) many times, the car won't accelerate/very slow to accelerate. What is happening here. My GC used to have swift acceleration when the accel button is pressed and will hold speed whenever doing a step climb. Help please with any suggestions. Thanks.

vcheng · August 2002

Check out the vacuum lines first of all. There is also a TSB on this problem that involves a new battery tray vacuum reservoir.

backy · August 2002

I have a '99 GCS with the 3.8L engine. It has 33,000 miles on it now, and overall I've been happy with it. It's smooth, comfortable, and has good handling for a large vehicle. It is a great cruiser for long trips. Reliability has been fair, with a couple of recalls, a bum speed sensor, a failed battery (unusual in my experience after only 3 years and 30,000 miles), and rattling side doors. The captain's chairs are a bit of a trick to replace, as noted; be sure the seller gives you a tutorial. If I were you I'd go for an extended warranty if it is reasonably priced; I have one on my GCS and it gives peace of mind for major trouble. As for the price of the van, $15,000 seems a little high unless the van is in exceptional condition. If it's Dodge-certified, then $15,000 isn't bad at all IMO. It's a lot of car for the money. However, be sure to have all major components checked because a 3-4 year old van with so few miles may have had hard use, with many short trips that are tougher on a car than highway mileage.

pmacey · August 2002

During a tire rotation and getting a price quote on brake work for our 1998 Voyager at the local Mavis shop, I was told the left front caliper was bad, was sticking or locking up and tore up the rotor (agree that I had some sort of problem, awful grinding noise going on)

Mavis told me they like to use loaded calipers and are sold only in pairs...price quote including install, tax, etc, would be $219 (single rotor was $79 installed)

I've never done brake work myself, and know you can probably buy the parts much cheaper...how good a price is Mavis giving me? Same at Goodyear, or any other major tire store? Cheaper at a local gas station?

BTW, 46K miles, had the pads and rotors replaced at 29K...this seems typical of what I've read about Chrylser brakes, every 15-20K miles needing replacement of pads/rotors...agree? (We have the base model with 14 inch tires, no ABS)

Thanks in advance

steeleng · August 2002

If the price quoted includes replacing both rotors then it is a great deal. The preloaded calipers are about $65 each and the rotors run close to $50 each. These are for aftermarket parts at a local parts store. If the price does not include the rotors then I would try to get them to come down on the cost of the rotor installation. There is almost zero extra work to replace rotors on modern vehicles once the calipers are removed (they almost fall out on their own).

pmacey · August 2002

The price included only one rotor (and tire rotation) as they say only the driver side caliper locked up, trashing just that side's rotor

As mentioned, they said the calipers 'should' always be replaced in pairs.

I got a higher price (by $20) from another major tire center, seems Mavis's price is the best so far, from the local tire shops

rstc · August 2002

Bought a 99 Ltd with 39000 miles on it. It has TIGERPAW APW tires on it in excellent condition. Was getting a deal on GoodYear REGGATA-2's. $150 for all 4 after trading in the APW's. Is it worth it ?
Also need your expert advice on the following:
1) Hear a very strange buzzing sound from the rear at exactly 50 mph. Is this normal ??? The van is FWD.
2) There seems to be a slight vibration in the steering. Got the tires balanced but problem is still there.
Thanks in advance

backy · August 2002

>>> ... this seems typical of what I've read about Chrylser brakes, every 15-20K miles needing replacement of pads/rotors...agree? <<<

Not in my experience. My '91 Caravan (SWB, base model, non-ABS, 14" wheels) went 40k miles before it needed new front pads. Rear brakes never needed servicing in 59k miles. My '99 GCS (16" wheels, ABS) has not had the brakes serviced in 33k miles, and still had lots of pad/shoe left at 30k checkup. Note that both vehicles are driven mostly in town, lots of stop-and-go.

busterdog · August 2002

Backy, what do you mean by IMO?
Also, what is meant by checking out the maajor components/ Please be specific as to what that means...? Also, what kind of mileage do they get? The car I am considering was a fleet vehicle whatever that means out of Plainview, NY - is the cold up ther bad for car?
THANKS! Please any more comments on a 99GC Sport? and the 29 N package?

pmacey · August 2002

backy: Not sure if somewheres around the '98 model year (3rd generation/4th generation?) if something changed in the hardware re: the braking system, but I did various google searchs on 98 voyager and brakes, and it was much more the norm to have short rotor and/or pad problems (and some complaints of short life on calipers as well) than abnormal...something about auto-sensing wear or auto adjustments coming into play.

Even though the Mavis tech said the same thing as above, I took it with a grain of salt as these techs are also part salesman.

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