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Four days later, we bought a loaded 1999 GC SE MSRP $27,490 for $22,590. Zero problems until 35,002 miles when coolant leak was noticed. Dealer replaced both head gaskets under warranty the next day and no more problems. Average fuel economy was 23.4 MPG for the 37,240 miles driven until we traded it in on a NEW 2002 Chrysler T&C eL on January 26, 2002.
Since it was such an exceptional vehicle, our daughter and son-in-law purchased from the dealer as soon as we traded it in.
We know dozens of people who own DC minivans and only 2 have had problems: Julie of Dallas, Texas had a used 96 T&C LXi that had an A/C problem so they looked at all minivans and did not like any as well as the T&C so they traded it in on a used 99 T&C Limited. They did purchase an extended warranty.
Dale and Heidi have a 96 T&C LXi they use to tow a large trailer. The van transmission had to be repaired at 180,000 miles and the water pump was recently replaced at 240,000 miles. They feel the DC minivan is the best vehicle for their needs.
I am pleased to read that DaimlerChrysler minivans now have very few problems and are recommend now by Consumer Reports along with the Odyssey and Sienna.
We miss the feature when we drive my sister's very nice 2001 Odyssey EX. They love to travel and have us drive the Odyssey home from the airport when they leave and drive it back to pick them up a week later when they return.
On a test drive for the 01 Ody EX, the odometer read 34.8 miles. On an exact repeat of the drive in our 99 GC SE immediately afterward, the odometer of the GC read 34.0 miles. After buying the 02 T&C eL we drove it on the same exact route and it read 33.8 miles. Apparently our gas mileage would be even better in our DC minivans if the odometer read "high" as in my sister's 01 Ody EX.
I can tell very little difference in the quality of ride in any of the 3. The T&C is the quietest of the 3 with the Odyssey very slightly noisiest. The Automatic Temperature of the Ody EX works flawlessly but I think the feature causes the vehicle to burn more gasoline as my brother in law does not get mileage as high as we do in the DC minivans. However, he may be a more aggressive driver and thus the lower mileage.
We set cruise at 75 MPH when my wife and I travel alone on I-15 to and from Anaheim but 65 MPH when there are 6 of us in the vans.
Thanks!
There could also be a cable damaged so that it will not permit sufficient electricity to properly operate the starter.
The transmission went into limp mode at 36021 miles and the check engine light came on. (21 miles after the warranty ran out!!)
Luckily I purchased an aftermarket 7/100kmi bumper to bumper warranty from Heritage.
Drove it 4 miles to the dealer in limp mode(dealer said to do this instead of getting it towed).
Dealer said the input speed sensor was bad.
Also said the output sensor should be replaced because when the input sensor goes bad the output sensor soon follows. (sounds fishy to me but since the Heritage warranty will pay I don't care)
The main point of this post is because the dealer says the transmission fluid smells burnt. He suggests replacing the fluid and filter ($115).
I parked the vehicle within a few hundred feet of first seeing the check engine light.
I checked the transmission fluid before even calling the dealer. It did not smell burnt and was not discolored.
I have done my own vehicle maintainance and most repairs for about 30 years so I know a little about what to look for.
My question is why after driving the vehicle only 4 miles to the dealer in limp mode the fluid had a burnt smell?
Especially since an external speed sensor was the original problem.
Any comments from the mechanics out there about this?
I've had Hondas, Chryslers, Mercurys, and now a Dodge. I've driven Fords, Pontiacs, and Chevys. I like my Dodge GC just as much as I did the Honda.
And the 'gimmick' trunk lid... you've got to be joking. I have kids and do a lot of home improvement hauling. That power liftgate, which I wouldn't have ordered had I spec'ed the vehicle, has been the most useful feature on the car. Nothing like it when you've got an armload of supplies...especially when it's raining!
E Schlene
West Lafayette, IN
The sliding door has "plungers" at both front and back of the sliding door. The plunger at the *back* of the door was causing my problem. The metal on which it pushed had gotten slightly dented-in over the years and was no longer pushing the plunger quite enough. I used a few layers of masking tape to "build up" the metal where the plunger pushes it.
The problem went away. Of course I don't expect the "repair" to last too long, but long enough for me to think of how to fix it more permanently. And the price wasn't too bad.
Good Luck!
van while we were on vacation in
Wisconsin...we took it straight
to a 5 star dealer where they
said it was an emission problem.
They smoke tested it but found
nothing. They reset it and said
we might not have tightened the
gas cap sufficiently but that it
wouldn't hurt to drive it. This
was on a Wednesday. We were on
our way home on Monday when the
light came on again. We had driven approximately 800 miles and had half a tank of gas. It
happened both times the first time the ignition was turned on
in the morning. We have made an
appointment for next week to take
it in again. Has anyone had this
problem? If so, would appreciate your input...thanks
Since the original gas cap on the 02 T&C looked exactly like the original gas cap on our 99 GC, we took the locking gas cap off the 99 GC and put it on the 02 T&C. Obviously, the locking gas cap that worked fine on the 99 GC was NOT adequate for the more sensitive systems of the new 02 T&C.
We got a NEW locking gas cap for the 02 T&C and have had no more OBD light come on and the van now has 9600 miles on the odometer.
for a new cap. So far, this is
the only problem. We averaged
25 mpg on our trip to Northern
Wisconsin. Wish the sport came
with leather seats and a power
lift trunk...it would sure help!
Otherwise, love the van...
A car such as the one you describe is about worth it's salvage value and will cost you much more than that between the time you buy it and when you discover the only way to get rid of it -- now that ist is a 'salvaged car' is either to sell it to salvage yard or drive it back into the nearest river.
You will find nothing but continual problems with any car that has been submerged. Recommend strongly that you take anything you are considering buying to a trusted mechanic (even the brand name dealer's mechanic - but not one who works for the dealer where you are considering the purchase) for an inspection.
Monty
Pete
I did not want he awd at irst however it does include the rear disc brakes (not available on fwd) and load leveling suspension (impossible to find on fwd models used or new).
I think I got a steal of a deal but just want encouragemtn/opinions. I jumped on this one because reasonably-priced es models are few and far between (only other one available in the DC area was a fwd model with 80k miles for $14k.)
As for body integrity, this van drives solidly and quietly (no squeaks/ratles). It feel much more solid and has much fewer creaks and ratles than my parents' '99 Silhouette.
If you think te price is too high, shop around. Where I live (DC metro area) '99 GC Sport models are comon (they were dodge's big seller at that time). When I went looking I found many sports but few Es models (what I wanted). See my post above yors.
As for seats, I have not played wth the seats on mine yet (just bought the van Friday) but have many friends who have these vans. The back seat would be impossible for most woman to handle (I am an average-built man and the seat is a chore for me to handle). The captains chairs are easy to remove but can be tricky to reinstall (watched a salesperson fumble with one in a 2002 model. If you buy this van and need cargo space, I recommend removing he middle buckets and roling the back bench up to the middle postion.
Hope this helps
BTW, where are the caravan owners to answer our posts. I would love to ear other's opinions on the deal I got.
Mavis told me they like to use loaded calipers and are sold only in pairs...price quote including install, tax, etc, would be $219 (single rotor was $79 installed)
I've never done brake work myself, and know you can probably buy the parts much cheaper...how good a price is Mavis giving me? Same at Goodyear, or any other major tire store? Cheaper at a local gas station?
BTW, 46K miles, had the pads and rotors replaced at 29K...this seems typical of what I've read about Chrylser brakes, every 15-20K miles needing replacement of pads/rotors...agree? (We have the base model with 14 inch tires, no ABS)
Thanks in advance
As mentioned, they said the calipers 'should' always be replaced in pairs.
I got a higher price (by $20) from another major tire center, seems Mavis's price is the best so far, from the local tire shops
Also need your expert advice on the following:
1) Hear a very strange buzzing sound from the rear at exactly 50 mph. Is this normal ??? The van is FWD.
2) There seems to be a slight vibration in the steering. Got the tires balanced but problem is still there.
Thanks in advance
Not in my experience. My '91 Caravan (SWB, base model, non-ABS, 14" wheels) went 40k miles before it needed new front pads. Rear brakes never needed servicing in 59k miles. My '99 GCS (16" wheels, ABS) has not had the brakes serviced in 33k miles, and still had lots of pad/shoe left at 30k checkup. Note that both vehicles are driven mostly in town, lots of stop-and-go.
Also, what is meant by checking out the maajor components/ Please be specific as to what that means...? Also, what kind of mileage do they get? The car I am considering was a fleet vehicle whatever that means out of Plainview, NY - is the cold up ther bad for car?
THANKS! Please any more comments on a 99GC Sport? and the 29 N package?
Even though the Mavis tech said the same thing as above, I took it with a grain of salt as these techs are also part salesman.