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Volvo S70

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  • Ahh- Not the turbo. I'll take a look and see what I can find. Thanks.
  • We purchased a 1998 volvo s70 for our daughter and it has been a really good little car. We recently put new tired on it and had it tuned up. We had the spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Not long after that we got an error P335 for the crankshaft position sensor. We have replaced this sensor and cleared out the code. The car ran much better, but then the check engine light came back on with the same code. Could this code trigger a different sensor?
  • 1999 S 70 who know how hard it is to replace the fuel pump and is it something that can be done by a non mech also the ABS Mod for the S 70 is not as big a cost as you think you can buy complete and life time warr. $75.00 to $99.00 shiping inc. from a place call Reman in Ma. it only takes 4 small bolts and one plug and your done so do not pay the $750 to $1,600. they all want very easy to do anyone can do it
  • i have a 2000 volvo s70 that just started acting up...it has 198,000 on it. it will start for a few seconds...then sputter like crazy then die.... i tried the jumper on the fuel relay... no difference. i did get it running by gingerly spraying ether in it .... as long as i gave it a squirt...run fine...if i stopped... dead...no check engine light... looking at the fuel filter i see that a small hose has a crack...i did have a po442 or 443 code a while back...thought it was the gas cap...might be this hose ... but anyway.....helppppp
  • also when its sputtering.... the upshift light flashes....
  • could be two things... check your fuel pump... amd we had same problem with bad wire to comp. comp. will heat up and shut down car.
    Jim
  • mykids98volvomykids98volvo Posts: 3
    edited August 2011
    My daughter's car had a similar problem and the code that popped up 443. We initially changed the crankshaft position sensor and still pulled the same code. We took it to the dealer and they said that the flywheel was rusty and the sensor could not sense the position of the flywheel. The dealer changed the flywheel (expensive) and the car runs fine now. It does not die or sputter or anything.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    When is the last time the MAF was changed (common failure point on this year)?

    If no fuel is coming out of that cracked line, it isn't the problem.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Do you get an error showing the crank shaft position sensor? My daughter's car would die at stoplights and we changed the crankshaft position sensor and that did not cure the problem. We ended up having to replace the flywheel because it was rusty and the sensor could not read it. After that it runs like a dream.
  • Hi Fellas!

    I am really in need of some sound advice (and from a real Volvo expert and not some guy at O'Reilly's who just wants to get in my pants...).

    Ok- I bought my 2000 Volvo S70 SE last year as a way to eliminate car payments so I could pay off my student loans for awhile. It was either buy this junk or get on a pole... And mama didn't raise a pole dancer...

    So here I am, one year later, with a car that is so tempramental I'm wondering which one of us is the real [non-permissible content removed] here. About 6 months ago the ABS and Check Engine lights would come on every now and again, but usually, they would just come on briefly. About two months ago they just stayed on. The car started to shake pretty bad if I was stalled at a light and would kinda jerk when I gave it some gas. I took it to my local dealership and there were a lot of signals that were coming back to them when they hooked it up to the computer, so they cleared it out so that they could identify exactly what was wrong. Two weeks later the ABS light and Check engine light came back on, and they explained that I needed a new ASB Control Module - which would cost me close to $2k. The damn car is only worth $3200. I googled ABS Control Module and got the idea to kinda wedge a piece of plastic between it and the box next to it (I got the idea from this website http://www.carinstructions.com/volvo-s70-v70-abs-module/). It was running much better for about two more weeks, but now my car is really acting PMS'y.

    Now, the car barely wants to start, and really whines before it decides to actually ignite. I sometimes have to push the gas to rev it up a bit. Three times it has stopped while I was driving (like from a stop position) and just died in the middle of the intersection. I have to shut it off and start it again. Today - and this is the scary part- it seemed like it didn't want to brake when I hit the brakes and then I smelled a strong gas odor. She sputtered and sputtered until I put her in park and once it was in park I saw the gauge on the transmission thing go from 1 to 8 -- AND I WAS IN PARK WITH NO FEET ON ANY PEDALS! After I came back from my appointment, she started up fine. The trouble is, the damn car started shaking again just as I was pulling into my driveway. I called a buddy of mine who suggested it may be a throttle body issue - but from my research - that has nothing to do with the ABS stuff.

    I know it sounds like my poor little car is a piece of $#!t, but it's mine -- and she's all I got. Until I get squared away with ole Sallie Mae, I really want to preserve her. I like my car and she looks pretty good -- but as you men know -- there are a lot of hot girls out here with messed up insides, and my poor Volvo is one of them.

    PLEASE HELP!!! I just need to know what to expect or how I can do this myself. I'm a broke, recently graduated young woman and Im surrounded my incompetent men who know nothing about cars - especially Volvos. Any ideas are appreciated!! :)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    edited April 2012
    You have 2 different problems here. The ABS has NOTHING to do with how the car runs (quite likely, however, the shaking of the car corresponds to the ABS light because the ABS light is caused by cracks in the board of the module, which are opening up as the car shakes). And, yes, you need to replace the module. HOWEVER, you don't need to pay $2k. There is a gentleman who rebuilds them better than new for less than $200.

    And... actually, while searching for that fellow, I came across this place. So $100 for the service. You do have to remove and mail it, but the instructions are right there on that site. You can drive the car without the module, BTW, you will have brakes, just not antilocks, so be careful.

    Your buddy is on the right track on the poor running issue. The 2000 S70 has a notoriously bad MAF sensor (just like a notoriously bad ABS module). However, it also has a poorly designed ETM, which is quite a bit more expensive.

    Where did you get the car diagnosed. Was it a volvo shop? It doesn't sound like it. Next time, you need to go to a volvo dealer or specialist. It takes very specific and expensive software to properly read all the codes on your car.

    The first thing you can try is unhooking your battery for 30 mins. During that time, also unhook your MAF. If, upon rehooking up your battery and starting the car, it runs better, then you need a new MAF. Again, you can drive your car this way, but don't do it for long. It will run with an improper Air-Fuel mixture, causing poor mileage and poor conditions for your plugs, O2 sensors, and catalytics.

    If it doesn't clear up, then you are very likely in need of an ETM. For a temporary fix, check out this video. And, just like the ABS module, there are places that will rebuild the ETM for far cheaper than replacing it (not to mention replacing it also requires a trip to the dealer to code the new unit to your car ... so avoid that and have yours rebuilt).

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,867
    Wow. I seriously wish these forums had a "like" or "thumbs up" option. Thanks for taking the time, q, to provide such comprehensive and money-saving advice!

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    no problem. I just hope its enough.

    vivica, the S70 really can be a great and reliable car. It has a couple of common problem areas, which I believe you are currently experiencing. Once those are sorted, it could last quite a while longer.

    You didn't state how many miles it has, though. Please also be aware that you HAVE to change the timing belt and tensioner every 75k miles. The manual states you can go longer, but I wouldn't risk it. Like just about any modern car, it will destroy your engine if it breaks.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • cjustcjust Posts: 1
    volvo s70 1998 is it a turbo? How can i find out, i have been to 2 different mechanics and they don't know.
    i need to replace the neutral safety switch but the parts are totally different on the turbo and non turbo models. I have a four door sedan , automatic.
    thank you
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    edited April 2012
    There are several ways:
    1. the badge on the trunk.
    2. the sticker under the hood.
    3. look at the engine itself. Look at this pic of a turbo engine. The large black hose going over the top-right side of the engine comes from the turbo back to the intercooler. If you don't have that hose, you don't have a turbo. You can also look at the back of the engine where that hose begins and see the turbo down there.

    image

    Here is what appears to be a standard 2.4 non-turbo:
    image

    By the way, there are 2 possible turbo '98 S70s: a GLT, which is a light-pressure turbo 2.4 liter 5-cylinder, and a T5, which is a high-pressure turbo 2.3-liter. Your parts may be different between those, as well, so check that underhood sticker to see if its the 2.3 or 2.4.

    Oh, and finally, FIND NEW MECHANICS!!! The fact that they can't tell is just.... WOW!!!

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • milady1812milady1812 Posts: 1
    I'm looking at getting new tires for my 1999 S70 GLT. Does anyone have any recommendations? I'm in Oklahoma so there's a lot of rain and occasionally a bit of snow and I'm looking for an all season sort of tire. Thanks for any help!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    Continental DWS

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • My 1998 Volvo S70's A/C stops blowing cold air after about an hour. When I turn off the A/C and turn in back on 10 minutes later, the air is cold again. I took it in for servicing and had the freon checked, no leaks. The mechanic told me that the compressor may be failing, repair estimate $1100. Does this sound right? Could it be fixed without replacing the whole compressor?
  • willybeewillybee Posts: 4
    Just bought a 2000 S70 GLT on Long Island with a bit under 98,000 miles. Paid just less than $4000; I figured I'd put a few thousand into it, and still have a great car for a buncha years and another 100,000+ miles. After 400 miles, she really reminds me of my favorite all-weather Highway Beast, an '88 Eagle Premier (FWD), America's most misunderstood vehicle, 'cept my Eagle had even better seats, and a bigger trunk. And the rear windows went all the way down. :shades:
    Put a quarter-million miles on 'er, joke is: went through only two sets of tires and original brakes; heck the only time they touched pavement was in a parking lot. (Actually, six sets of tires)

    Here's where we're at with the New Beast:
    1. Timing Belt, Idler and Tensioning pulleys, and Water Pump scheduled for this week. Serpentine belt too, while they're in there.
    2. Brakes all around, including reman calipers and new hydraulic lines.
    3. Struts, mounts, bearing plates, spring seats, stabilizer linkages. Rear Shocks replaced.
    4. Oil change, of course.

    Unresolved, as yet, issues of priority: (HELP !!) :confuse:

    1. Headlights lousy. I mean like as bad as running at night with DRLs (Daytime Running Lights) only.
    Blindly spent $60 for 55w Xenon Bulbs to little avail, then found same on eBay for $10-20....
    Is it worth getting crazy and gettin' 100w bulbs with HID ballasts and stuff ??? HELP !!
    Hey, when the Turn Signals and Parking Lights put out more Lumen stuff than the Headlights, sumptin' ain't right. Bulbs seein' 12V engine off; 14V running.
    Disabled the DRL function wit da little screw on the Headlight Switch; that seems to help some, but not nearly enough. Lens and particularly reflectors a bit dull, but I've seen way worse that pump out mucho more light onto da road. Even at the Dealer's lot. :confuse:

    Researching aftermarket replacement headlight assemblies, I found one site that even had a decent installation video:
    How To Install Replace Headlight and Bulb 98-00 Volvo C70 S70 V70 1AAuto.com
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW1SA8e6aRw&feature=plcp

    Metallic coatings of plastic reflectors have evolved quite a bit over the last 12 years, so $350 OEM assemblies, even with the typically Glass Lenses, don't seem to be a prudent expenditure. Even $125-150 aftermarket and crashed-up car parts places (used to call dem "Junkyards") Imma not jumpin' at.
    Made the same era; same mediocre reflector coating.

    Learning to re-aim them myself; bought the 2000 Volvo Service manual on CD for twenty bucks, installed the .vmx viewer, but itsa wantin' me to be a Service Manager/Salesman instead of giving me schematics and diagrams and drawings and stuff. HELP !! :confuse:

    2. Engine sometimes surging a bit at 30-35 mph at minimal load/rpm's. Similar surge, and even hesitation at 5 mph and coming off the line gently. Like in a parking lot or from a Stoplight. ETS light (Electronic Throttle Sensor ??) came on for a bit once, then went out; the inexpensive code reader of the nice guy that I bought New Beast from showed no codes to be read/confused over. :confuse:
    First thought was perhaps intermittently clogged fuel filter ?? Don't even know where it is yet.
    Then, readin' through about 15% of these Posts, vacuum leak is added to my list, which also includes O2 sensor possibilities. HELP!! Is "MAF" some sort of Mixture: Air/Fuel chip ?? What's the Part # ?? Where is it ??

    3. Front Cup Holders are nearly worthless. Doesn't seem to be anyplace else to put one. Currently getting by with one designed to wedge between seats; got it between seat and center console; any other suggestions ???

    4. New tires all around at end of Summer. Original Michelins from Costco ?? Someone posted Continental DWS or GWS, but any other recommendations ?? Slightly bigger diameter or width ??

    Anything else I should put on my list of stuff schedule and to budget for ???

    THANKS !!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    1. Look into Euro lenses. They are clear as opposed to the US hatchmarked versions. If you want more light then that, buy separate driving lights. I did that on my '98 and mounted them down in the foglight holes.

    2. ETM is a very very common failure on these. The one big weak point (along with the ABS module). You can get it rebuilt with solid state and much more reliable components, but it isn't exactly cheap. I believe around $500, IIRC.

    3. I dunno.

    4. I agree with continental DWS if you can afford it.

    If the aforementioned ABS module every goes south on you, there is a place that rebuilds them for far far cheaper than a replacement unit. So just keep that in mind.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • willybeewillybee Posts: 4
    Thank you kind folks for your replies. Some apparently regular contributor, a Klaus fellow, has also suggested that 2004 C70 lenses are clear, and will fit my dear Beast. I will look into both. The cross-hatched, fresnel effect lenses diffuse the damn beam so much that I can't even discern a cut-off line for aiming them.
    The damn reflectors are way worse than the dull (unburnished) side of aluminum foil in brightness.

    I'll look further, but somewhere in the postings are links to the places that rebuild both ETM and ABS modules....betcha this Klaus guy has them on speed dial, or on Bookmark bar of his browser !!

    BTW, I couldn't figure out what currency abbreviation IIRC bees; mebbe like a Royal Canadian second-series ?? Had to look it up !!

    Timing Belt, appurtenances, and Wa Wa pump are definitely the priority for this month's budget, with Serpentine belt squeezed in.

    If you're following, Mr. Klaus, I'd like your opinion on Tranny fluid flush. I've heard and read everything from, "Don't ever think of cracking the pan or plug; new fluid will curse the tranny" :confuse: , on through drain and replace half or one third per week or month and run it for the week or month.
    Decant to re-use the drained fluid ??? One guy, perhaps a heavy drug user, said to make sure to put back the gritty stuff for friction properties.
    Several different fluids have been held in reverence. One guy claimed gloatingly loving fastidiousness to doing it a quarter of capacity at a time. What up wit dat ?? Let da tranny brain acclimate gradually ???

    Haven't tried this new beast in slick wet or snow/ice yet, but I did love the degree of control that my Eagle's (had a Volvo-made engine) ZF-4 tranny gave. Better than driving a stick. Wonder if the "W" mode be the same ??

    Again, thanks to the Community that I've just stumbled into.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    It absolutely positively needs the trans fluid changed. No, I wouldn't "flush" it at this point, but definitely change it. I found with my T5 that it started acting a little funny at 60k miles. Fluid change fixed it. Then had to change every 30k after that.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • willybeewillybee Posts: 4
    Thanks for your kind advices.
    What worries me about tranny is the wild spectrum of advice. One of my five Chevys, my S-10 P/U, had Dealer Svc. (Drain, replace fluid, and filter) at 50k to stay within warranty. At 100k, done by a tranny shop Owned by a guy who eventually turned into a Meth addict and skipped town. Starting at 115k, three rebuilds (twice towed w/o drive shaft disconnect) and a new tranny got me through 160k and into 240k..........Different tranny shop (but Owner perhaps also a heavy Drug user) done tole me about making sure to put back some of the gritty fluid for friction property retention !!
    Actually, two Volvo Owners, whose vehicles I had looked to purchase, with 134k and 119k, told me about the "never touch the tranny fluid or crack the pan curse/hex" thing. They did concur with Timing Belt replacement, so I ditn' think they were completely bonkers on drugs.
    Culling through the bewildering madness, it seems to make sense to drain half or less when cold, to remove precipitated particles, but replace and run with what ?? Half decanted fluid/half fresh, or straight fresh? Fresh Factory fluid from Dealer, or Dextron III ???
    Is this procedure intended to wash out the hydraulic pressure sensors and lessen the necessity of replacing the filter ??

    Suspension and Brakes: Done.

    Timing Belt, appurtenances, Water Pump, and Serpentine Belt: Next Week

    Headlights, whatever the solution, end of August.

    Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires budgeted for September.
    T'will run 'bout $500 installed.

    Watched the little Throttle Body clean-out video last night; don't know if this will help, as I'm seeing Tach bounce at idle and low load 30 mph cruise only 5-10% of the time during a third of my trips.
    My Mechanic says he won't touch it, 'cause the Magnetti Merilli (sp?) ones have such problems that Volvo issued a recall advisory, and upon failure, will replace at up to 100,000k. (after begging or threatening; which one works best for a Second Owner that isn't an attractive woman ??)
    Anyone got contact info on the rebuild house handy ??

    Also saw a Cabin Air filter replacement video. Hey, two screws and twelve bucks ?? Even my alcohol-addled mind can handle that.

    Still hate the Cup Holders. Have found the part at crashed-up car joints for $11-$25 vs. OEM/Dealer $35-$55; I can't believe how many windshield wiper motors have apparently survived accidents protecting the people behind them.
    None of my extensive collection of re-usable beverage containers will fit properly. Work-around of buying new containers; one nice SS one that fits snugly has horrible thermal insulation properties; way worse than Dixie cups; hey that's why they were On Sale for $2.50 each. Just bought two nice 7" and 10" tall ones for $7 and $20, but they're Pepsi-can dia. narrow to the point where they'll flop out when Turbo kicks in.
    What, do I have to do, search for damn Metric coffee cups too ??

    Otherwise, startin' to love New Beast.

    Willybee
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,268
    edited July 2012
    Those S-10s had faulty transmissions, so I wouldn't hold that up as a measuring stick.

    I think this whole business about transmission fluid not getting changed is a conspiracy by the dealers. :blush:

    Seriously, though, case in point is my BMW. BMW says lifetime fluid... never touch it. Oddly enough, however, I can buy the fluid and filter from them for just this purpose. hmmmm... Secondly, the manufacturer of the transmission, ZF, says it SHOULD be changed every 50k. Now, who would you believe? The company that built the transmission? Or the company who just bought it and put it in their car?

    I just did a real brief search to see if I could find aisin-warner's recommendations on this transmission, and I came across some interesting comments from a mechanic. take a read for yourself.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • willybeewillybee Posts: 4
    Thanks for your kind advices.
    What worries me about tranny is the wild spectrum of advice. One of my five Chevys, my S-10 P/U, had Dealer Svc. (Drain, replace fluid, and filter) at 50k to stay within warranty. At 100k, done by a tranny shop Owned by a guy who eventually turned into a Meth addict and skipped town. Starting at 115k, three rebuilds (twice towed w/o drive shaft disconnect) and a new tranny got me through 160k and into 240k..........Different tranny shop (but Owner perhaps also a heavy Drug user) done tole me about making sure to put back some of the gritty fluid for friction property retention !!
    Actually, two Volvo Owners, whose vehicles I had looked to purchase, with 134k and 119k, told me about the "never touch the tranny fluid or crack the pan curse/hex" thing. They did concur with Timing Belt replacement, so I ditn' think they were completely bonkers on drugs.
    Culling through the bewildering madness, it seems to make sense to drain half or less when cold, to remove precipitated particles, but replace and run with what ?? Half decanted fluid/half fresh, or straight fresh? Fresh Factory fluid from Dealer, or Dextron III ???
    Is this procedure intended to wash out the hydraulic pressure sensors and lessen the necessity of replacing the filter ??

    Suspension and Brakes: Done.

    Timing Belt, appurtenances, Water Pump, and Serpentine Belt: Next Week

    Headlights, whatever the solution, end of August.

    Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires budgeted for September.
    T'will run 'bout $500 installed.

    Watched the little Throttle Body clean-out video last night; don't know if this will help, as I'm seeing Tach bounce at idle and low load 30 mph cruise only 5-10% of the time during a third of my trips.
    My Mechanic says he won't touch it, 'cause the Magnetti Merilli (sp?) ones have such problems that Volvo issued a recall advisory, and upon failure, will replace at up to 100,000k. (after begging or threatening; which one works best for a Second Owner that isn't an attractive woman ??)
    Anyone got contact info on the rebuild house handy ??

    Also saw a Cabin Air filter replacement video. Hey, two screws and twelve bucks ?? Even my alcohol-addled mind can handle that.

    Still hate the Cup Holders. Have found the part at crashed-up car joints for $11-$25 vs. OEM/Dealer $35-$55; I can't believe how many windshield wiper motors have apparently survived accidents protecting the people behind them.
    None of my extensive collection of re-usable beverage containers will fit properly. Work-around of buying new containers; one nice SS one that fits snugly has horrible thermal insulation properties; way worse than Dixie cups; hey that's why they were On Sale for $2.50 each. Just bought two nice 7" and 10" tall ones for $7 and $20, but they're Pepsi-can dia. narrow to the point where they'll flop out when Turbo kicks in.
    What, do I have to do, search for damn Metric coffee cups too ??

    Otherwise, startin' to love New Beast.

    Willybee
  • You are lucky. I'm going to pay $1774 for mine. They changed the expansion valve and the clutch as well. Mine is a 2000 model with low millage.
  • Is their a kit to replace the electronic throttle body to cable operated? Has anyone broke the electronic throttle body down to find what cause the problem in the system, what does the manufacture has to say? :mad:
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