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See my post in the "meet the members" topic in the Volvo owners club for my Volvo experiences, spanning nearly 19 years.
One of the local (“try to guess where we get our late model cars”) lots is advertising a 98 S70 T5 with a five speed tranny for $19k. Since I haven’t seen the condition of the car or know the mileage and history, I don’t know whether $19k is a good price or not but I do intend to check it out.
What should I know about this car before I spend my time on it? What are the 70 series show stoppers?
I’d like to know of any major items that would fall into the following categories:
1) Likely to cost us over $500 to get fixed
2) Things that have been known to happen to the S70 that are urgent enough to keep it off the road (in the shop) until it is fixed
3) Things that have been known to happen that are beyond a “do-it-yourself”er’s ability to take care of or diagnose without special tools.
The wife and I have long been lured to the looks of these cars but I’ve heard many horror stories about the S and V series cars. I wonder what might be the reason this car is on such a lot.
I’m lured by possibility of me soon driving a seemingly rare *5-spd* T5 sedan but don’t want to walk onto the lot blind to what should concern me.
Thanks
Looks like I forgot that my quotation marks and apostrophes are not compatible with this forum. Either that or its the parenthesis. Sorry
" quote
‘ apostrophe
) parenthesis
You can use MS Word to compose a post and then paste it here without those oddities if you turn off "smart quotes" - you should be able to find the way to do this by using the Help feature in Word. (I know that the problem is with apostrophes, but I've been told this is still the way to fix it.)
Hope this helps.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
As far as the price, as long as the miles are within reason (i'd say 40K or lower) and its not a bizarre color or have damage or anything, then that's a good price.
I was looking only a couple of months ago and didn't find any for that cheap. One that I did see at $20,700 was in horrible shape and had about 45K miles on it. The sticks seem to get beat up more than the autos. The 3 manuals that I looked at were all in far worse shape than the 4 automatics I drove (and I ended up buying one of the autos as a result). That and I didn't get along with Volvos idea of a manual transmission.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I was hoping for a 'stealth' version
Spoiler, leather, auto tranny, winter package, and sport suspension are all options. Yeah, usually they are fully equipped, but the one I found and bought had no spoiler and no sport suspension (i wish it had the suspension, but couldn't turn down such a clean vehicle for that).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Don
Lynn Flowers
McKinney, Texas
BTW, I just leased an s60 2.4t and it's even better than the s70. The interior space is only slightly tighter, the ride and handling is far superior, the seats are superb.
I'm a first-timer in this discussion. I have questions about a 1998 Volvo S70 with the normally aspirated 2.4L engine. It's an automatic with 68K miles. If you can help out, I'd appreciate it.
- Question 1: "Volvo" approved coolant
- Question 2: Headlight wipers
Again, I'd appreciate any help you can give me with these questions.According to the user manual, the car requires "Volvo" approved coolant, as opposed to plain ol' Prestone or another brand. I was told by a dealership that the "Volvo" coolant had different levels of silicone in the formula for better compatibility with the engine. Can anyone verify this or tell me which name brand coolant I can use in lieu of the "Volvo" approved stuff?
Why don't the headlight wipers work? I though they were supposed to activate when you pull the wiper stalk on the steering wheel forward to wash the windshield. I checked, and the headlight wipers don't budge. I don't think they've ever worked.
Later,
burnsmr4
For your question about the headlight washers... you are correct that they should operate when you use the windshield washer squirters. The motors sometimes go out on the wipers and need to be replaced. I replaced the passenger side one on my 854 T5 last summer, for a cost of $115 and it took about an hour. It wasn't very hard and I imagine it's very similar in the S70 cars. Have you checked the fuses? If they're good, then I'd suspect the motors. When mine went out, it made some noise. I could activate the washers, and with the car running, walk up to the headlight and hear the wiper motor wirring away, trying to go. The gears strip, it seems.
Hope this helps.
/java
we are looking into buying a S70 but am not sure after reading a variety of complaints from few site message boards - would like to hear from you all if there is another model in the 2001 that is better than s70..
thank you,
aran
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Best bet is to go over to the Real World Trade-in board and ask Bill and Terry for their thoughts on the vehicle and what you should be able to get it for.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
She wants something "boxy" and always points out older 850s when we are driving. She seems less impressed with the more aerodynamic S70s, even though they are safer, imho.
My question is this: Assuming that she can live with either model, should I go for a '97 850 and save some cash, or buy a '98-'99 S70?
And if you were timewarped back to the dealer, would you buy the S/V70 model or would you "cheap out" and buy a used 850? (I found a '97 T-5 wagon for $12k and it's sharp!)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
-- failing steering column ring antenna (which receives the signal from the encrypted ignition key)
-- faulty emergency flasher/turn-signal switch
-- failed SRS (airbag) sensor
-- failed electric-window switch
-- loose radio antenna connection
Coincidentally or not, all these problems have been electronics-related. Mechanically, the car has been great. I hope this helps.
Delreybird, your problems seem minor but they are many. My sense is that if I bought a '97 850, these bugs would be worked out already (?)
I'm still not sold on quality, but my '98 Audi has had just as many problems, so I can't complain too loudly.
The 850 I was going to look at this weekend was a no-show and we ended up driving a '98 BMW 528i ($22,900 - more than I want to spend) which was very nice, solid, quiet but, of all things, had broken cup holders. Interesting.
We will continue to shop and I will keep the board posted if any solid (and cheap) Volvos move into the picture.
Anyway.. my car makes a grinding noise which seems like its coming from the rear. On cold or damp days its louder..on warm days you can barely hear it.. I've had it to the dealer a number of times and surprisingly they can hear it faintly sometimes but can't locate it..
It comes on at a certain speed (40 mph) but seems to go away at higher speeds (I think the road noise maskes it at that speed). It doesnt change pitch when speed increases and doesn't go away when i'm breaking or cornering..its just always there..its not a turbo and not AWD...
Does anyone with a similar year/model car have this problem or any suggestions. All help is appreciated!
Thanks
Good luck. let me know what happens.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Anyway, part of the reason I got such a good deal is that it needs new tires within probably 5k. Michelin XGT H4s are the OEM tire? Has anyone run Michelin Energys, or another Michelin on theirs? I will use the car mostly for interstate or major state highway driving, with a bit of fun stuff thrown in, too. Probably 70% interstate/state highway, 10% secondary roads and 20% city driving.
Additionally, I'm an avowed Michelin Artic Alpin fan and a set of those will be purchased for winter, so I guess I'm not looking for all-season tires but rather good spring/summer/fall tires. Quieter is good, too, but that may be a trade-off with wet road grip?
Thank you in advance for taking time to give me your thoughts.
Andy
I'm not sure on my tires. They are probably still the original set. I'll take a look after work and let you know what I have. Whatever they are, I like them quite a bit. Good grip in all conditions. I bought the car with 30K miles, I'm up to 50K (already!) and still don't need to replace them, so they seem to wear well.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks!!
We ordered ours from the factory in spring of 1999. It's a non-turbo, manual transmission model...the only option we ordered was the sunroof. Pewter Silver Metallic, tan (taupe?) vinyl/cloth interior.
We're up to about 55,000 miles now, and this is by far the best car we've ever owned. We have experienced absolutely no major problems to date. The minor problems we've had: Passenger window switch came loose, and was replaced under warrantee. Front blinker buckets replaced under TSB/Recall (not sure which) and headlight bulbs replaced maybe twice.
We replaced the Michelin MXV4's at about 37,000 miles...they still had some tread left, but one took a nail so we replaced all 4 with a set of Continental CH95 all-seasons -- the Continentals handle way better in the dry, and are good in the rain and snow we get up here in northern Mich.
We just had the brakes replaced -- at the 50,000 mile service, the dealership said they were down to the wear limit. They should last longer now that we're not in Indiana, where everyone forced us to use our brakes to avoid hitting them.
We have noticed no rattles. No squeaks, no detaching interior panels, no electronics going haywire. Nothing. The car is as solid as the day we bought it. When a hailstorm/tornado broke a headlight, I found that the car is amazingly easy to work on, as well. (Compared to the GM's I'm used to)
When dirty, the color hides the dirt. When clean, the car *gleams*. The interior fabric is durable with a capital D -- similar to the tough fabric on airline seats. The seats are immensely comfortable, and make 10 hour driving stints downright easy.
With the back and front seats folded down, I've carried an 8' stepladder home from the hardware store with all doors and trunk closed, and a 12' roll of carpet with the last bit hanging out of the trunk. The square design allows the trunk to be totally usable, and allows major passenger room -- adult passengers can ride in the backseat behind me, comfortably.
I would unhesitatingly recommend an S70 to anyone looking for a car, based on our experience.
bringing the car in next week and i'll ask about the wheel bearings..thanks for the idea..will post what I find out
I am bringing it in to my local shop Wednesday but was wondering if anyone had any experience with this type of problem so I can hopefully point them in the right direction.
The shop will be able to tell you if the battery is taking a charge or not.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Shocks:
BILSTEINS! all the way, go with the touring version if you want a comfortable ride. The Bilstein HD is a more sporting shock and is suitible if you get lowering springs. If you want a better ride, I'd replace your springs when you replace your shocks. It makes a big difference.
Tires:
I also run "summer" tires for 3 out of 4 seasons. I've been running Bridgestone S03's for the last month. They are awesome! Great grip and good ride; very quiet too. Do not use these tires when there is any chance of snow or ice!
Batteries:
Quality, quality here folks. Do not skimp and get a generic. Look! especially at CCA (cold cranking amps). For an S70 it should have at least 600CCA, preferable 650. I recently got an Interstate Battery. It works great. You can actually notice less stress on the car when starting on a cold morning!
Good luck with your maintanence issues, and have fun driving or "motoring" your Volvos!
Hope they are right.