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Comments
This was a base S70 w/ leather and alloys, and a few other options.
these were the last S70's built.
Probably have to check your vin.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thank you for your help, it is very muck appreciated.
Anyway, a '98 GLT will treat you well, IMO. Just keep up with the maintenance. There are common failures you will need to face, like the ABS controller, PCV system, spring mounts, swaybar endlinks, and probably some others I'm forgetting. Although the car only has 47k miles, I would probably replace the timing belt and tensioner now ... age can hurt a timing belt, just like miles.
If you or your son has the ability to turn a wrench, I suggest getting familiar with what is under the hood sooner than later. It can really save you big bucks when it comes to the ABS controller, for instance (typically $800 at a dealer vs $180 to do yourself), or the PCV system (saved myself about $400 last week by doing this myself, too).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks for your responce. I know very little about volvos. I heard they were safe, however i also heard from a one friend that they broke down often. Another friend taht had a Volvo however said he hrdly had any problems. So I appreciate your knowledge and advice. Also neither i or my son are handy with tools.
Thanks
yes, of course there is the safety factor. Its what volvo was built on and stake their reputation on. Luckily, I haven't had to fully test the safety of mine. I did get slammed sideways into the retaining wall on the highway going 80 mph ... and only had a dented fender and 2 scraped wheels .. so that impressed me.
Well, don't let the laundry list I stated give you fear. Every car has its problems. At least the S70 is not prone to major failures like the tranny, head gasket, or what have you. The things that do go wrong are usually fairly minor. But I would make sure you know of an independent mechanic who is familiar with volvos. Dealerships are typically VERY expensive. My indy volvo mechanic is usually about 60%-70% the price of the dealership estimates. Like i said, I do alot of things myself, but sometimes its just not worth my time for the price that he charges.
Oh, and, for the record, my Volvo has NEVER "broken down." Yes, I've had to make repairs, but it has not once left me stranded (knocking on wood). I read alot about S70s from their owners and I can't recall any story of anyone getting stranded EXCEPT when the timing belt or tensioner failed, which is why I suggested changing those immediately. Any other instances were caused by modifications made by the owner.
good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
someone else asked him for the details of this mechanic, and this was his response:
rong642002, "Volvo S70" #852, 22 Aug 2005 5:02 pm
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
possibly a CV going bad.
to test the hub bearing theory, check out the tips on this page:
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.volvospeed.com/maintence.htm
what you are looking for is under Miscellaneous. Its the shift microswitch problem.
Other common problems include the ABS module and, with this number of miles, the PCV system.
what model did you get? Base?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
What to do: Go to Radio Shack and buy the micro lamp type 7219 (SN 272-1092C), 2 bulbs per package at about $1.50. After removing the bulbs from your radio, remove the old bulb elements from the plastic housing and insert the new bulb in it's place. This is tedious as it requires you to chip away the "glue" holding to wire leads in place and wrap the new wire leads in similar fashion. However, I was able to do this with just an exacto knife (be very careful PLEASE).
In a hour or so I had replaced all of my bulbs and should be good for another 100K miles. Please note that many owners (including myself) leave their headlights on all of the time, which probably causes the bulbs to burn-out sooner.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
BTW, what's MAF? Also, according to the manual, the timing belt change is rec. at 105k miles, not earlier. What are your thoughts?
ANYHOO... on to your "snapping" noise. This is also a new one on me. There are lots of suspension issues with the S70s, but I've never heard any of them described like this. The typical problems you'd find in the rear are the spring mounts and the spring clips. The clips are extremely minor. The mounts are a bit more involved, but still won't break the bank. Honestly, though, the mounts give a much deeper clunk sound when bad.
Make sure its not something loose. Maybe a busted exhaust mount? Maybe a loose mudflap? Something like that. Or how about something loose in the trunk? Check where the tire is, too, because something could be hiding under the tire.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
qbrozen, "Volvo S70" #790, 13 Jul 2005 7:09 am
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
THanks in advance
Lisa
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Then the radio needs to left on for 2 hrs, then you can enter the code.
Thanks.
:confuse:
Thanks
On the plus side, the car still rides beautifully, doesn't burn oil, no vibrations, decent mileage (24 mpg mixed city and highway).
Output was 236hp
The normally asipirated engine was 2.4L and 168hp.
You are going to have to find a company or Volvo dealer in Europe and have them send you a set.
You could also just order from IPD.
http://www.ipdusa.com/productscat.aspx?CategoryID=1839&NodeID=5700&RootID=629
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Is it a stick or auto? How many miles? Do you have to keep adding oil? (I presume so if its spitting out black smoke, but just looking for confirmation)
You sure he's not racing the thing?
Aside from the smoke, how is it running?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
We get persistent coughs after driving and the smoke stains the ground below tailpipe. :sick:
How about cleaning the crankcase ventilation system (PCV). Its definitely due with this many miles and can cause excess pressure in the crankcase, which can then cause blowby and ultimately result in a blown main engine seal (YIKES!).
After all that, go and pay for a fuel injection system cleaning. Its not something I usually recommend, but it sounds like you may be a good candidate.
If you aren't burning oil, then I don't see how anyone can recommend replacing the engine. That's premature, to say the least.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
S70's have zero clearance engine's meaning if the belt goes, so will the valves. Find out if the belt has been done, if not get it done SOON.
heck, i would not even be driving that car right now without knowing if the belt was done. If it goes, you can scrap the whole car because it won't be worth it to fix.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you can, when you hear this noise, see if it is coming from the nose of the car on the driver's side. The pump is located under the air filter box.
If this is the case, it means your air pump is starting to fail. This happens because the air pump valve goes bad and allows water in. You can avoid replacing the pump for a while by just replacing the valve. It will prevent further damage. The pump may still go bad, but it will take longer. You'll just have to live with the noise. Once it fails, it will throw a CEL, but it will not affect the driveability of the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S