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Volvo S70

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Comments

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    could be a base SE.
    This was a base S70 w/ leather and alloys, and a few other options.
    these were the last S70's built.
    Probably have to check your vin.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    and that lag you are referring to is probably the time between you stepping on it and the transmission downshifting.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • chumbucketchumbucket Member Posts: 2
    I am considering purchasing a 1998 S70 w/47000 miles for my 17 year old. Is the car safe and reliable? What problems should i look for or expect. The car looks clean.
    Thank you for your help, it is very muck appreciated.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    wow! 47k miles? That's remarkably low. Hope you run a carfax to double-check that figure and make sure it hasn't been rolled back.

    Anyway, a '98 GLT will treat you well, IMO. Just keep up with the maintenance. There are common failures you will need to face, like the ABS controller, PCV system, spring mounts, swaybar endlinks, and probably some others I'm forgetting. Although the car only has 47k miles, I would probably replace the timing belt and tensioner now ... age can hurt a timing belt, just like miles.

    If you or your son has the ability to turn a wrench, I suggest getting familiar with what is under the hood sooner than later. It can really save you big bucks when it comes to the ABS controller, for instance (typically $800 at a dealer vs $180 to do yourself), or the PCV system (saved myself about $400 last week by doing this myself, too).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • chumbucketchumbucket Member Posts: 2
    qbrozen,
    Thanks for your responce. I know very little about volvos. I heard they were safe, however i also heard from a one friend that they broke down often. Another friend taht had a Volvo however said he hrdly had any problems. So I appreciate your knowledge and advice. Also neither i or my son are handy with tools.
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    no problem.

    yes, of course there is the safety factor. Its what volvo was built on and stake their reputation on. Luckily, I haven't had to fully test the safety of mine. I did get slammed sideways into the retaining wall on the highway going 80 mph ... and only had a dented fender and 2 scraped wheels .. so that impressed me.

    Well, don't let the laundry list I stated give you fear. Every car has its problems. At least the S70 is not prone to major failures like the tranny, head gasket, or what have you. The things that do go wrong are usually fairly minor. But I would make sure you know of an independent mechanic who is familiar with volvos. Dealerships are typically VERY expensive. My indy volvo mechanic is usually about 60%-70% the price of the dealership estimates. Like i said, I do alot of things myself, but sometimes its just not worth my time for the price that he charges. :)

    Oh, and, for the record, my Volvo has NEVER "broken down." Yes, I've had to make repairs, but it has not once left me stranded (knocking on wood). I read alot about S70s from their owners and I can't recall any story of anyone getting stranded EXCEPT when the timing belt or tensioner failed, which is why I suggested changing those immediately. Any other instances were caused by modifications made by the owner.

    good luck.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • bedivolbedivol Member Posts: 1
    I have a s70 and have used Volvo Villa ....expensive and not great service. Can you give me the details of the person you are using? Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I wouldn't hold my breath for an answer. That poster has not been on the board in almost 6 months. But, maybe this will answer your question:
    someone else asked him for the details of this mechanic, and this was his response:
    rong642002, "Volvo S70" #852, 22 Aug 2005 5:02 pm

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • romo1romo1 Member Posts: 3
    It does not happen all the time, but every so often when slowing down to stop. usually starts as i slow down from 30 to 15mph. Click,click,click, click. Replaced front rotors and pads. Checked all wheel sensors, calipers, ect. all o.k. Still clicks! Any explanations? Thanks 99 S70 65K
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    clicking is odd. the only other thing i've had to replace on mine is the hub bearing assemblies. But those gave a grinding noise when turning, with or without brakes applied.

    possibly a CV going bad.

    to test the hub bearing theory, check out the tips on this page:
    http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jwsigjwsig Member Posts: 1
    I am new to the group and was wondering if there was anyone with advice for loose inside door panels. The driver and passenger panels will practically lift right off from the bottom when doors are open. Back seat panels are beginning to loosen a tad also.There are no clips to pop panels onto that I can see, but there seems to be a green substance on inside door frame between door and panel. Don't know if this was adhesive that has gone bad or what. Would appreciate any ideas.2000 S70. Thanks..jwsig
  • colos70colos70 Member Posts: 1
    How do you replace the flasher unit on a 1998 Volvo S70?
  • tim15tim15 Member Posts: 10
    I bought a 1998 Volvo S70 today for my daughter, mainly because it will be a safe car. It currently has 110K on it, but runs well. One minor problem... To shift out of park, I must push the shift lock override button. Any ideal why? Also, any common problem area with this model? I'm hoping I can get a few thousand trouble free miles out of it. Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    here is a good site for you to read:
    http://www.volvospeed.com/maintence.htm

    what you are looking for is under Miscellaneous. Its the shift microswitch problem.

    Other common problems include the ABS module and, with this number of miles, the PCV system.

    what model did you get? Base?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • frivolvofrivolvo Member Posts: 1
    anyone know where to get the LED bulbs when they burn out. I've remvoed them and been to autoparts store and Radio Shack w/o luck...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    hmmmm... i don't know. i always heard radio shack was the place. well, i found this quote on another board, so hopefully the part numbers will help you find a place online to buy them.

    What to do: Go to Radio Shack and buy the micro lamp type 7219 (SN 272-1092C), 2 bulbs per package at about $1.50. After removing the bulbs from your radio, remove the old bulb elements from the plastic housing and insert the new bulb in it's place. This is tedious as it requires you to chip away the "glue" holding to wire leads in place and wrap the new wire leads in similar fashion. However, I was able to do this with just an exacto knife (be very careful PLEASE).
    In a hour or so I had replaced all of my bulbs and should be good for another 100K miles. Please note that many owners (including myself) leave their headlights on all of the time, which probably causes the bulbs to burn-out sooner.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • oculus1oculus1 Member Posts: 6
    I just bought a used 1999 S70 with 80k miles, and it runs great. I'm curious as to why the engine turns off with a slight shudder whenever I turn it off. Starts smoothly though. Any ideas?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    hmmm.. well, i don't have a definitive answer for you, but I do hope you have a service history on the car. If not, with 80k miles, you need to go over EVERYTHING with a fine-toothed comb. It needs the timing belt, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter replaced. Service the tranny, check the wires, and, since its a '99, clean the MAF.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • oculus1oculus1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, gbrozen, for your input. I have the old records. In fact, the car was serviced regularly as per standard recomm. The last service was done at 75k miles, i.e. just a few months ago.

    BTW, what's MAF? Also, according to the manual, the timing belt change is rec. at 105k miles, not earlier. What are your thoughts?
  • oculus1oculus1 Member Posts: 6
    Another quirk I've noticed in the same car ('99 S70). I occasionally hear this sharp snap-like sound, sounds just like a small rock hitting the windshield, whenever the car goes over a bump or an incline. Seems to be coming from the rear (? the rear right side?). But doesn't happen everytime, only occasionally. Is it something minor involving the struts, eg lubric, or worn bushing?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    ok ... 105k could be right. I know they kept changing the interval from the early '98s on up. For instance, early production 98s require, if i remember correctly, 75k, while later ones require 95k. There is a conspiracy theory, however, that there is no difference that should require an extended term for the belt and volvo merely started stretching the interval to look better to potential buyers. I do know that they changed from mechanical to hydraulic tensioners mid-98, though.

    ANYHOO... on to your "snapping" noise. This is also a new one on me. There are lots of suspension issues with the S70s, but I've never heard any of them described like this. The typical problems you'd find in the rear are the spring mounts and the spring clips. The clips are extremely minor. The mounts are a bit more involved, but still won't break the bank. Honestly, though, the mounts give a much deeper clunk sound when bad.

    Make sure its not something loose. Maybe a busted exhaust mount? Maybe a loose mudflap? Something like that. Or how about something loose in the trunk? Check where the tire is, too, because something could be hiding under the tire.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    oh yeah... the maf. Ok, i think this post pretty much covers it. i kind of mispoke when i said maf (mass air fuel sensor). its pretty much the same idea, though.

    qbrozen, "Volvo S70" #790, 13 Jul 2005 7:09 am

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mhlnlisam67mhlnlisam67 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 S70 and just had some work done on it - I need to reset the radio and its asking for a code to do so - I do not have the manual - vindictive ex husband swiped it outta my car! Can :P anyone help :)
    THanks in advance
    Lisa
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    your dealer can.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    You have to get the radio code from Volvo.
    Then the radio needs to left on for 2 hrs, then you can enter the code.
  • kelviekelvie Member Posts: 1
    sjaz . . . did you ever find your sun visors? Have the same issue, except now the dealer wants considerably more!
    Thanks.
  • victore64victore64 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I've got the same sound. It sounds exactly like you describe. I think it's coming somewhere from the dashboard area, on a passenger side.
    :confuse:
  • oculus1oculus1 Member Posts: 6
    Actually mine seems to be coming from the rear area
  • jayzivjayziv Member Posts: 3
    Dealer told me that sterring rack and boot are damp and that I will need to replace for $1200. Currnet mileage at 65k on my 98 any suggestions or alternative to this costly repair..
    Thanks
  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    Again, this is a common Volvo S-70 problem (according to my independent Volvo repair place)- I have a 1998 S-70 (non turbo) now with 108K. At about 85K, the power steering fluid drained out (big mess) but I was able to drive it without PS (good exercise!!!) to the repair place. They dropped the "stack" and repaired it for "only" $200, but said that it is more common to have to replace the whole thing for the $1,200 that you mentioned. So far no new leaks. But my radio needs replacement and one of the power windows goes down slowly, again both common problems to this model.

    On the plus side, the car still rides beautifully, doesn't burn oil, no vibrations, decent mileage (24 mpg mixed city and highway).
  • ctvolvo_ownerctvolvo_owner Member Posts: 1
    Looking for recommendations for a good Volvo shop in Fairfield County, CT. I have a '98 S70 GLT that needs a good caretaker :-)
  • asikaasika Member Posts: 8
    Just bought a used 1998 S70 Turbo and the roof liner is separating and coming loose above the rear passengers. Any ideas what caused this and how to remedy the situation?
  • mbaronembarone Member Posts: 1
    Could somebody please tell me the difference between the s70 awd and the T5. Engine wise. is the engine different or just a higher pressure turbo.
  • asikaasika Member Posts: 8
    S70 (S for sedan and 70 for model size) AWD (all wheel drive)comes with a standard 2.4L, DOHC five cylinder engine with twenty valves and 162 hp at 6,100 rpm and the S70 T5 puts out as much as 246 hp with the same engine size.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    The S70 T5 was a 2.3L I5.
    Output was 236hp
    The normally asipirated engine was 2.4L and 168hp.
  • fejj89pufffejj89puff Member Posts: 1
    Sorry if i messed some thing up by posting this iam new and dont know how to properly ask a question. Iam looking for the side parking lights on the headlights of a volvo s70. i have found many sights which offers them but iam looking for them without the side yellow reflector. please help. thank you.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    those are the euro spec lights.
    You are going to have to find a company or Volvo dealer in Europe and have them send you a set.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    maybe I'm misunderstanding, but it sounds like you are referring to clear corner lenses. I see those on Ebay all the time.

    You could also just order from IPD.

    http://www.ipdusa.com/productscat.aspx?CategoryID=1839&NodeID=5700&RootID=629

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • yhwh4meyhwh4me Member Posts: 4
    I suspect my young adult ruined the engine in this 1998 S70 GT by using poor quality regular gasoline even after several warnings. The sensor was replaced and several mechs looked and said dump the card. Black smoke (no oil leak apparent) continues to invade passenger compartment and environment. It was purchased used and is still bank owned. Is a rebuilt engine recommended? :cry:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I had no problem running regular in my '98 T5, so the GLT certainly should have no problem with it. Just exactly what are we talking about when you say "poor quality"? It would have to be REALLY poor. Like stalling and sputtering poor, in which case, I don't see how the car would be driveable with that gas in it.

    Is it a stick or auto? How many miles? Do you have to keep adding oil? (I presume so if its spitting out black smoke, but just looking for confirmation)

    You sure he's not racing the thing?

    Aside from the smoke, how is it running?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • yhwh4meyhwh4me Member Posts: 4
    It does stall at times. 120K miles. I recommended a name brand gas like Mobile,Exxon,BP,..not GAS brand. No excessive oil use.

    We get persistent coughs after driving and the smoke stains the ground below tailpipe. :sick:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Hmmmm... black smoke without burning oil. Well, that means its not burning the gas properly. Have you done a full tune-up? (wires, plugs, filters, etc)

    How about cleaning the crankcase ventilation system (PCV). Its definitely due with this many miles and can cause excess pressure in the crankcase, which can then cause blowby and ultimately result in a blown main engine seal (YIKES!).

    After all that, go and pay for a fuel injection system cleaning. Its not something I usually recommend, but it sounds like you may be a good candidate.

    If you aren't burning oil, then I don't see how anyone can recommend replacing the engine. That's premature, to say the least.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • oculus1oculus1 Member Posts: 6
    Hi folks. Since we're on the topic of fuel octane rating, my 1999 S70 (base) owner's manual says it'll run on regular 87 octane, but recommends 91. I've switched between 89 and 91, with no difference in performance or fuel consumption that I could tell. Have never tried 87 octane though. Any thoughts/experiences? Anyone suffered pings/knock with 87? Any long-term harm in using 87 or 89 rather than 91?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    As I said, I ran 87 in my T5 for years with no problems. So your base model should certainly be just fine with it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • 99reds7099reds70 Member Posts: 2
    hi, new member here, have a 99 s70 with about 118,000 miles. just went in for an oil change at a local volvo servicer and he mentioned getting the timing belt replaced? i know the manual suggests this at 105k, and i cant remember what all i have done to it. it runs great, but wondering how much of an issue this timing belt really is. thanks :confuse:
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    well, if the belt has not been replaced, then you are on borrowed time.
    S70's have zero clearance engine's meaning if the belt goes, so will the valves. Find out if the belt has been done, if not get it done SOON.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    listen to vmax!

    heck, i would not even be driving that car right now without knowing if the belt was done. If it goes, you can scrap the whole car because it won't be worth it to fix.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • 99reds7099reds70 Member Posts: 2
    hey, got the timing belt replaced, no problems, but this volvo is expensive. and now the service place mentions a slight high pitched whine when the engine starts and this might be the alternator??? i do hear a higher pitched whirring noise when i first start the car, but then it goes away after just a couple seconds. ever heard of such a thing??
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    yes, there is a very good chance it is the air pump.

    If you can, when you hear this noise, see if it is coming from the nose of the car on the driver's side. The pump is located under the air filter box.

    If this is the case, it means your air pump is starting to fail. This happens because the air pump valve goes bad and allows water in. You can avoid replacing the pump for a while by just replacing the valve. It will prevent further damage. The pump may still go bad, but it will take longer. You'll just have to live with the noise. Once it fails, it will throw a CEL, but it will not affect the driveability of the car.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • asikaasika Member Posts: 8
    Thanks to this forum; I took my 1998 Volvo S70 to the mechanic to have both the timing belt and water pump replaced. The car has 127K miles and I have no history to fall back on. This mechanic(and I trust him) said it was the wise thing to do. Yep, this car is expensive.
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