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Mitsubishi Galant

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Comments

  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    BUT- Nissan has issues putting 246lbs through its front wheels, so it seems logical to expect that torque steer may be an issue on the Galant as well. Also, what will the increased weight of an engine that is 1.4L larger than the base engine do to the cars handling?

    Purely opinion: Displacement, while a very patriotic method, IMO, isnt always the best way to equip a vehicle with strong, refined accleration. Honda impresses me a bit more.

    ~alpha
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    Why not tune the 3.0L engine for more power? Why go to an engine that's almost 1 liter bigger. Again, it's a truck engine. As much torque as it has that doesn't mean it's the best choice for a sedan.
  • sambates69sambates69 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Mitsubishi Galant that keeps stalling -- First the car wouldnt move and when I took it to the dealer he said it was a transmission problem. Cost me close to 3k to get that done.
    A few months later the car started having intermittent problems with starting and stalling etc. I took it to a transmission guy who said he couldnt find anything wrong, and then took it to the dealer twice and he said he couldnt find anything wrong either ' unless it acts up when I drive it'. The car kept stalling erratically and finally when I took it back to the dealership for a thirs time he said that the 'computer' and distributor have to be replaced. Cost? $1490!!
    The car has done a 100,000 miles...
    What do you guys think I should do? Should I retire the caar and get another one, or shoould I get this repaierd? And if so, should I try another mechanic or stick with the arrogant, offhand and incompetent Mitsubishi dealership...

    I appreciate your help
  • vadim_stvadim_st Member Posts: 13
    Sambates69, IMHO: keep the car, forget about the dealer, find an old [Italian] mechanic. Also, it looks like you may have trouble with wires, and not necessarily the computer, and that could be a pain to locate and fix. Dealers won't bother, I am afraid.
  • 2002gtz2002gtz Member Posts: 5
    I'll pose the same question that I did earlier, does anybody know if installing Eibach springs on a 2002 GTZ will void out the warranty? If I do install the springs, will I have to install anything else or just have the wheels aligned?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    More than likely, your warranty would be voided on the suspension only. Meaning, your shocks, springs, bushings, wheel bearings, and tire rods would no longer be covered under warranty, if the dealer can prove your alteration caused the problem. However, they could not void the warranty on anything else. If you install the springs, you shouldn't need to do anything but a wheel alignment.
  • oskwioskwi Member Posts: 88
    I have a 1996 Galant S that was a former lease...I bought it with 10,800 miles in 1999 loaded with leather, moonroof, CD/tape, power l/w, etc. I have over 174,000 miles on it now and have had very few problems with it...the biggest concern has been a radiator cap ($14) and some burned out switches that I replaced myself once the parts came in! Most of my driving is highway and in Buffalo, NY, where the winters are long and harsh! Recently, I have some clunking in the right front side of the car when I am traveling between 15-30 mph over bumps in parking lots or in the road. The steering is still tight, though! It is NOT the tiebars (replaced numerous times under a recall), wheel bearings (done at 98,000), tires (new ones every Thanksgiving weekend regardless because of the snows), calipers, rack & pinion steering,etc. You name it, it has been maintained or ruled out. A dealership during my travels in TN thought that it was the strut bushings...the struts were actually hitting the metal frame, they thought. At my home dealership, they assumed the same thing, and $600 later, the problem is still there! The struts have never been replaced and they weren't leaking so I don't think they were really worn...as I mentioned, ALL of my driving is highway, and the highways here really aren't that bad, all things considered. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding what this might be? I am in the process of buying another car...but this car will become my mother's car and I want to make sure it is safe. Any information would be greatly appreciated! I have been reading info. on this site for quite some time and finally broke down and logged in.

    P.S. I am still considering a new Galant or a Mazda P5...I think I want something I can transport things in...being a graduate student, the price is a major concern. I have read wonderful things about the P5 and lackluster reviews about the Galant...Consumer Reports gives it a poor in reliabilty. My question is "What's unreliable with the new ones?" My 1996 has been a real champ and I haven't seen too much negativity regarding the newer ones on this site, or any others for that matter. I'm wondering what Consumer Reports sees that I obviously don't. Please fill me in!
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Are you sure CR has given the most recent Galant a "Poor" rating? I thought it got an average mark. You can find out for yourself why if you look at the reliability table for the Galant in the April 2003 auto issue, then compare that to the statistical average model table that is provided in the beginning of that section.

    ~alpha
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I can almost guaranty you its the struts. 174k is a lot of miles on a shock, regardless of where those miles were accumulated. Typical struts last a max of 150k and they start loosing effectiveness long before they fail completely. You may think the car still handles tight but I guaranty you will notice a big improvement in shock control and handling once you replace them. Worn out struts will clunk without visible leaks. I suggest you replace them. You should have let them replace the shocks when they disassembled them to replace the strut bushings. It would have saved you a lot of money. Another possible source of the noise is a worn out CV joint but usually those will click as you turn in addition to clunk over bumps. Good luck.

    As for the new Galants, they are very reliable cars. Early models had issues with warped front rotors and a few interior rattles. Overall though, their mechanical reliability is top notch as long as you replace the auto tranny fluid every 30k. The engine is the same one you have now, so if you had good luck with it, you shouldn't expect anything different. You might want to look into the Galant DE if you want high value and reasonable list of features. They were offering a 3k rebate, making them about 14,500 new, in April. At that price, it's hard to ignore the Galant's value.
  • oskwioskwi Member Posts: 88
    Thanks for the prompt reply. In response to Intonge18, I did replace the struts and there is still the noise. You are right, though, regarding the overall steering and response after the new struts were put on...much better. I'm still concerned about the safety issue. Many would say to dump the car, but financially it has been a phenomenal car and my mother likes it better than her 1994 Corsica...a complete piece of junk with two transmissions, three air conditioning systems, several ABS sensor replacements, two new stereos, etc. That was a bad experience and one of the reasons I decided to "buy foreign" if that truly exists anymore! I have been very pleased, especially on a then poor undergraduate student, now graduate student's budget!

    As for alpha01, I am looking at the 2002 CR sheet for the Galant and it says in the opening sentence "The Galant's reliability has deteriorated, so we can no longer recommend this otherwise capable car..." I was shocked when I read this, and from different postings I've read, I don't see too much wrong with this car. Occasional brake wear and wind noise are things I can live with, especially having come from a Chevy. I will take your advice and track down the most current review.

    Thanks
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Have you changed the ball joints, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings? The ball joints are separate from the ball joints that are part of the tie rod and can cause clunks. I'm just trying to throw out every possible solution to see if it's been done. There is a slim possibility you have a bad engine mount. Have you ever heard the clunk when accelerating and than suddenly taking your foot off the throttle or when coming to a stop? Ever heard the clunk while turning? A clunk heard during any of those 3 situations points to a bad engine mount, which is highly possible with so many miles on your car.

    My suggestion would be to keep it. If it's been making the clunking noise for awhile and there is no ill effects to its handling, than it should be fine. It definitely has to be better than the Corsica!!
  • oskwioskwi Member Posts: 88
    Thanks for the info regarding the ball joints and sway bar bushings. I'll definitely look into this further with the dealership...that's one of the problems with this car. If you are in need of service, and it is rare, you are at the mercy of the dealership technicians. There are private people who refuse to work on my car, and, after having one of them look at a steering vibration problem many miles ago, actually ended up screwing up my alignment. This particular person thought it was an alloy wheel problem, when in actuality, the wrong size tire was put on from my original car purchase! Go figure! I hope to have someone look at my car again and I'll keep you posted. If you come across anything else, please let me know. Thanks!
  • bagladiebagladie Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Galant. Would probably not buy one again. I have high mileage (50,000) so I have no warranty left. Rotors had to be replaced at 28,000 but am now experiencing the same problems as before with the brakes (excessive shaking, wondering if I am going to be able to stop). My heater has also decided not to work. It starting making a grinding noise about a month or so ago and now does not work at all. The A/C works great though. Am looking for any insight as to what could be wrong with my heater. Thanks.
  • oskwioskwi Member Posts: 88
    I posted last week regarding some clunking from the passenger side front of my car. I recently read a TSB regarding a recall for the lower ball joint replacement from 03/01. This was definitely not done to my car. Could this be the cause of the clunking?? Let me know what you think!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Yes, it could be. That lower ball joint is the one I was referring to in an earlier post. It connects the hub assembly to the control arm.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Brake pulsation is caused by overtorqueing wheel lug nuts, a very common practice by mechanics. For detailed information, see the article I wrote at:

    http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm

    Mr. Vivona
  • purp3purp3 Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2000 ES 4cyl Galant with 44,000 miles on it. Before this car, I owned a 92 Toyota Paseo. I've been having problem with the rotors warping on my Galant. I bought my Galant new. In 44,000 miles I've had to have the rotors turned 3 times. My Toyota didn't need the rotors turned for 88,000 miles. This should show that I'm not an aggressive breaking driver. I'm thinking my rotors are defective on my Galant. Anyone else experience the same problem? Any help you can provide would be great! Thanks... The last time I had them turned, I haven't had the tires rotated or anything where they might have tightened the lugs to tight and they are still becoming warped.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Everytime you have the rotors turned, the rotor's metal decreases in thickness, thus making it more susceptible to warping. The Galant's rotors are known to warp easily if care isn't taken when putting the lug nuts on (an impact wrench should not be used on this car). There is even a TSB for the correct way to torque the lug nuts. I'm friends with the local Mitsu dealer's service shop foreman and he said the rotors are a common problem on the Galant and Eclipse.
  • purp3purp3 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for your input! So, the lugs have to be hand tightened huh when they are put back on? No impact wrench at all? Impact wrenches were used on the Toyota I had. I think this is a quality issue don't you? I'm going to look into getting new rotors and when the tires need rotated tell them not to use an impact wrench and see how it goes. I will let the Mitsu dealer know that there is a TSB on how to torque the lugs. I get my rotation done at Walmart so I will have to let them know not to use an impact wrench and also how to torque the lugs. I'm getting frustrated with the rotors. If I can't get it fixed to my liking I'm going to get rid of the Galant.
  • cxshortiecxshortie Member Posts: 15
    I am having the same exact problems with my heater. It has to make this clicking/grinding noise before it turns on the next air level even after I switch to the desired comfort level!
    They put a new mode motor in the car, but that didnt help.

    Last week after they said it was fixed, the temperature control was on cool so I changed it to heat and nothing happened! Four days later, when I turned on the car, I heard the clicking noise and finally the heat came on...then this weekend when I was too warm, I turned to cool air and nothing happened...so I am waiting for the clicking noise until i can take it to the dealer.

    Besides that, I have the "normal" Galant squeaking and rattling, i really do like the car, but all this is starting to get on my nerves. I am hoping this stuff will be fixed with the 2004 Galants...I'll wait at least until 2007 to find out!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Supposedly, the correct way to torque the lug nuts is with a hand operated torque wrench, set to the proper torque specification. Mitsu dealers are aware of this, but like my friend said, they only use the proper procedure when the regional rep comes in and does an inspection because it is too time consuming otherwise. The rotor design is a little flawed on this car (however, it makes them much easier to replace), but honestly, the mechanics are as much to blame. Your Toyota may not have used a "floating" rotor design which can make them more susceptible to warpage. The only thing that holds your rotors securely in place is the lug nuts (the two bolts that hold the caliper in place help, but not enough). If any side of the rotor is tightened to a different torque than the opposite side, you will run into uneven pressure and eventually, warpage.

    I know what you are going through though. I had a 93 Diamante that warped it's rotors twice in a short period of time. I had the new rotors turned once and than retorqueing the lug nuts after I got it home from the local tire shop kept the problem at bay (some of the lug nuts were real tight and others were not, thus the source of my problem). My 02 Lancer hasn't had any warpage problems in 23k, and I attribute that to the fact I rotated the tires myself and no air gun has touched the car. I wouldn't let the rotors ruin your whole enjoyment of the car. If that is your only problem, I would get the current rotors replaced and just take care in how the lug nuts are tightened and I think your problem would stop.
  • mich2001mich2001 Member Posts: 9
    I have continiuos noise on rear wheels,when vehicle start accelerated over 5-10 miles/pre hour.I am using Kelly charger tires on back.
    I am wondering,if somebody have same problem?
    Or I have just wrong tires?
    Very appreciated for your help guys.
  • lawman1967lawman1967 Member Posts: 314
    My car was worse. At 13K miles the left front pad was worn (the right was at 90%), meaning a defective caliper. The caliper was replaced under warranty, but they would only turn the rotors, not replace. I figured (correctly) that any amount of friction that could wear a new pad down to the sensor in only 13K miles is severe enough to seriously overheat the rotor.

    I was proven right at 20K when the steering would shudder under breaking. Imagine my lack of surprise when only the left rotor was badly warped!

    It took mention of small claims court for them to replace my rotors, and would you believe they expected me to settle for just the left one? Anyway, I got two new rotors and HOPEFULLY my break problems will be over.
  • 2002gtz2002gtz Member Posts: 5
    I'm looking at lowering my 2002GTZ with some aftermarket springs. Does anybody know the pros and cons for installing either Spring, Progress Technology or Eibach Springs? Which one would be the best for a better stance and less body roll without interfering with the interworkings of the wheelwell?
  • cbnearlacbnearla Member Posts: 28
    Anybody know what's up with this site? Seems like it has been down since last Thursday.
  • oskwioskwi Member Posts: 88
    Well, I finally had the car in for service regarding the clunking...the ball joints were already done so that was not the culprit. So far, a tranny mount and two engine mounts have been replaced but to no avail. They thought the engine mounts were making the noise because a couple of Eclipses came in with the same type of sound. Everything else is tight as can be...maybe it's something internal. Anyway, I told the dealership to keep the car another day so that this problem can be spotted and corrected. So far, I've done repairs totaling about $1000 that fixed absolutely nothing...all this on a graduate student's poverty level income...can't wait to be done with my Master's...onward and upward to my next poverty level wage...that of a school counselor! :) I would love to unload this car but the money I would put down has to go towards a move from Wisconsin to New York this summer. I really hope the economy stays sour until I can get back home and purchase a car with some kind of great financing deal...I know that's pretty selfish of me, but I need a cheap payment until graduate school is done! Any info. anyone has would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
  • 2002gtz2002gtz Member Posts: 5
    Hey, still clunking; ever thought about joining the Army?
  • dunworthdunworth Member Posts: 338
    I had a Galant rental up here in Toronto for 3 days. This is a really nice driving car. It was the base ES version with the large 2.4 L four.

    It was roomy, powerful enough for highway driving and yielded about 39 mpg (imperial gallon)/32.5 (US gallon). It did not exhibit any squeaks or rattles and I was impressed with the overall build quality. I liked the crisp exterior (IMHO better than the current Accord,Camry or Altima)but the interior design was a bit dull.

    These are new up here in Canada (Mitsu has only been here about a year). I see a few Lancers around but the Galant is rare. I think they are well priced and cheaper than the Accord/Camry. I myself drive a Honda and Toyota which are a bit nicer inside but the Mitsu appears to offer good value. It would definitely be on my shopping list if I was in the market for a midsize.

    A question for anyone on this board. I believe this car shares a platform and the 2.4L engine with the base models of the Chrysler Sebring, Hyundai Sonata and Kia Optima/Magentis. Can anyone confirm that this is true?. Is the engine a Mitsu? It this a reliable car? Is the Chrysler version as good (we have more dealers for these).
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    The 2.4 liter engine in the Galant is not the same engine that's in the Sebring sedan or the Sonata/Optima. In fact, none of these engines are related. The platforms aren't related either. However, the Galant does share its engine and a modified version of it's platform with the Sebring coupe. The engine in the Galant and Sebring coupe is a Mitsu design. Does that help clear up the confusion? Mitsu cars are very reliable and well-designed. You should check them out when you look for a new car.
  • gejuancgejuanc Member Posts: 1
    Does this price seem typical for a 2001 Galant used? Those of you that have experience with the 2001 Galant, have you had any major problems? If so, what kind?
    2001 MITSUBISHI GALANT, auto, pwr., 55K, green w/gray int., tint, $5900,
  • dunworthdunworth Member Posts: 338
    Thanks for the post. You were correct. I found this on the Ion board.

    I had stopped looking for here thinking that the board had gone quiet.

    The reason I asked is that in the 1980s the larger 4 cyl engines in Chrysler were Mitsu and nearly all Hyundai stuff was Mitsu based as well. My last Hyundai had that company's own Beta 1.8. As you said, the current Galant and Sebring share a Mitsu platform.
  • vonnyvoncevonnyvonce Member Posts: 129
    Have a 95 4 cyl. which was throwing alternator, A/C and power sterring belts off. Noticed the bottom pulley was not in line with the others. Took a look at it and found the outer part totally loose. I pulled it off and found a rubber cover over the inner pulley. What's the fix for this. Seems like the rubber is glazed and not grabbing at all????
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Seems a bit low. What trim line (DE, ES, LS, GTZ)? Which engine? Any other major options?

    Have you looked computed the used price using the 'net tools available at Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book?

    I've a 99 LS V6 with 76K miles. The 01 isn't particularly different. Mine has been quite reliable and has had only a very few minor issues. Scroll back a bit and you'll see my latest posting on the reliability I've gotten.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • kostadinovkostadinov Member Posts: 11
    hi there!

    I am having a problem with reprogramming a new remote for my galant 2002...we have just one remote with the keys..and since both me and my wife are driving,I decided that we need a second one...
    Got the new remote from ebay for $10...and was so happy until the dealer I got the car from/carmax/...asked me for 75 dollars to do the reprogramming.....was told that it is an hour job...and there are many steps to be performed via the computer and so on....
    I just don't accept that..it is electronic stuff and don't think will take more than 5 min to do the task...anyway..
    if someone knows a better and cheaper way of doing that...please let me know....

    To all others....please verify the cost of the reprogramming before you buy a new one...

    In carmax I was told that they would'ev charged me 100 dollars for the remote itself and additional 75 for the reprogramming.....
  • cbnearlacbnearla Member Posts: 28
    Go to www.thegalantcenter.com and search the forums for keyless entry. There was a thread recently on programming them
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    We were able to find instructions to program a remote for a 1996 Civic EX. They didn't work but you might have better luck with the Galant. I think $75 is a little severe since a local Honda specialist programmed the remote for free with a fairly minor service.
  • kostadinovkostadinov Member Posts: 11
    thanks for the answers,I have spent hours on thegalantcenter.com....and i found something....I just cannot get myself to believe it's going to work..... in the dealership they told me the computer needs to be plugged in...and so on...and now after reading this stuff with pressing the hazard lights 6 times and doing the task within a minute...I am just afraid I might damage the working remote and then they will charge me 150 to do both of them..anyway....
    there is another slight problem now...
    when the AC is on I noticed some vibrations on the stearing weel that desappear right afeter I svich the AC off.....I wander if this is normal...I know that running an AC is quite a task ...just don't want to think that it will be so notiseably...with my lovely Galant in Burgundy....
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    It is normal to feel a little more vibration through the steering wheel when using the AC.

    Reprogramming the remote is an odd procedure in most cars. For instance, my 97 Altima required I have all doors closed, lock the door with the power door lock switch, insert and take out the key from the ignition 10 times within 10 seconds, than the emergency flasher lights would flash twice, and than you pressed any button on the remote. It sounded quite ridiculous to me and neither I nor the dealership could get it to work initially. I finally figured out I was inserting the key too fast and programmed the remote successfully for free. So, if the directions you found sound equally odd, don't worry it's normal. Give it a try if the person said it works!
  • kostadinovkostadinov Member Posts: 11
    thanks ,Ingtonge18....now I feel like I am not the only one.....
    Will give it a try very soon....at least it is worth to save some bucks,isn't it?
    I'd like to share something else,though!
    It is my front lights this time....the glass that covers the lights is scratched so badly...firrst I taught it is because the previous owners had been driving mostly on the motorway - the car has 17000 miles after 17 months from the 1st registration...
    and then I had a better look on the bonet and on the front bumper... and I couldn't find any scratches...isn't it an odd fact...
    now I am wandering how these scratches got on my front lights???
    I dunno,I just try not to think of this car so much...but i got obsessed,I am afraid. Used to drive an 1994 Galant in my previous place,in London,UK...and was so hapy with the old one...now I just got the dream of my life...G8 from 2002 and I have to fight my five for a bit of driving...otherways my daily transportation consist of a 2001 Ford Ranger EDGE.....and I hate Ford....this one just was terribly cheap that I couldn't resist not buying it....it was 3500 bellow KBB and almost 4000 bellow the similar Rangers in Carmax
    Considering that I am new resident to the USA with no credit history at all....shouldn't complain too much,should I!
  • enginerustenginerust Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES w/ 23 miles on it. I did not check over the car before buying it as far as outside appearance or under the hood as I thought I should not have to do that w/ it being a new car - the car should have been perfect. Had it been a used car I would have checked it out thoroughly. Anyway - - There were scratches on the drivers side window - a rust spot on the door panel and rust starting on the rear driver side door. Then I looked under the hood and about fell over. The head gasket is PURE rust - there is rust all over the engine block - I'd say half of the things under the hood have rust on them. I took the car back to the dealer and said this is absolutely unacceptable - he told me that it's normal - nothing under the hood looked out of the ordinary to him. How the hell can a 2003 w/ 23 miles be rusted under the hood????? I asked to see under the hood of another Galant and that too had rusty parts but not as bad as the one I have. Has anyone else had this problem???? I know cars will eventually rust but a new car should not be this way. I had a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse w/ 159,000 miles on it that wasn't rusted. If Mitsubishi is selling cars w/ rusted parts I don't know how that can be acceptable. If anyone out there has had a similar problem please let me know.

    Thanks!
  • kostadinovkostadinov Member Posts: 11
    Hi there!
    Just checked and confirmed that the material for the engine's block is CAST-IRON!!!This is why it is rusty, 2 days are more than enough to get rust on anything that is cast-iron,especially if you live in high humidity and temperature area!There isn't nothing to worry about as long as the block is rusty,the trouble starts when it gets oily!
    I am not sure about the body,though!It is galvanized and it is covered by some warranty against rust,7 years and 100 000 miles....."Every 2003 Mitsubishi comes with extensive coverage to ensure your satisfaction, including a 3-year/36,000-mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty; a 5-year/60,000-mile Powertrain Limited Warranty; and a 7-year/100,000-mile Anti-Corrosion/Perforation Limited Warranty."-this is from the following link:

    http://mitsubishicars.com/galant/specs.html

    If I were you I would go and ask for exchange if your galant has rust on the body,cos' it is covered by the warranty,and as the body is galvanized,the rusty spots will get worse once they have started to apeare.....and one of the reason could be some deep scratch or ding that has broken the galvanized layer on the body,once this layer is broken the corrosion is on immediately and it's very difficult to be stopped.
    I would suggest that you examine the paint work around the rust spots to determine whether there has been some painting or not. This will show that the brand new car had been scratched and re painted prior to selling and eventually you are the owner now. Very close look and touch will show you re spraying,there always will be some traces left no matter how professionally the touch up is,in your case it looks like an amateur's job!
    Let me know if this helps,thanks!
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    cast-iron block? Must be an old design. Most newer Japanese engines use aluminum.
  • kostadinovkostadinov Member Posts: 11
    yeap! 1994 is the year when this engine..4G64...2.4 liters was introduced....
    it means the engine is so well designed that it doesn't need any changes,this is what I think!
    They gonna moved it to Lancer 2004,will change something on the head to get some extra HPs and there you go - 10 years old engine is still up end running!!!
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    The real reason is Mitsu is so broke they are struggling for R&D money. That's why they resorted to using a truck/SUV engine in their mid-size sedan.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    We so enjoy your remarks in Mitsu forums...not! Seriously, why don't you stick with Honda forums since you never have anything nice to say about Mitsu.

    As for your comments, doens't Honda use an enlarged version of the Accord engine in the Odyssey, MDX, and RL?? So why exactly are you slamming Mitsu for sharing an engine between their trucks and cars? Truck, car, doesn't matter! We aren't talking about a huge V8 and 3.8 is a common size for a V6 over at Ford and GM. Everyone is trying to cut costs by sharing as many components as possible. Besides, if Mitsu was that hard up for cash, they would have simply continued using the 3.0 and 3.5 V6s they already have rather than designing a new 3.8. Also, there is nothing wrong with using an engine design for a long time. It just proves its a reliable long lasting design. VW spends plenty of money on R&D and have new tech engines and yet they still use the same 2.0 that was introduced in 1993, itself based on the 1.8 liter dating all the way back to 1983. The 1995-97 Accord V6 was in fact the same V6 used in the 86-91 Acura Legend. I could go on and on with examples. So, please, quit trying to come up with lame excuses to slam Mitsu because you only end up showing your lack of knowledge and your bias for Honda cars.
  • marcinmarcin Member Posts: 64
    nice reply! ;-)

    marcin
    '99 Galant ES
    4cyl. / 93k mi
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Anonymousposts was a bit hard edged, but what I think he was getting at is that the 3.8 was designed for use in Mitsus truck models, some of which are actually trucks, and do not have underpinnings based on cars (think: Monteros). The Honda situation- they designed an engine for cars, then adapted it for use in car based minivans and sport utility vehicles.

    "It just proves its a reliable long lasting design. VW spends plenty of money on R&D and have new tech engines and yet they still use the same 2.0 that was introduced in 1993, itself based on the 1.8 liter dating all the way back to 1983."

    Thats not a very good example, IMO, as that engine is undeniably anemic in all its applications, and fuel economy suffers as a result. 115hp and no overabundance of torque (like Mitsu's much better Lancer engine) from 2Liters in 2003 doesnt cut it. This is an engine that should have been upgraded years ago. The Honda 2.7 also failed miserably, IMO, in its Accord application, though it was decent engine.

    My concern with the 3.8 in the Galant is how weight dist. will affect handling and fuel consumption. I am not sure, but I would imagine the 3.8 is significantly more weighty in the nose than previous Galants. I think the engine itself is good, though, and torque is a good thing.

    Have you received any new info on the 04 Galant? I signed up for news releases and brochures and junk via a postcard that I got at the NYIAS, but havent heard anything yet.
    ~alpha
  • kostadinovkostadinov Member Posts: 11
    hei guys!
    Could anybody tell me why I can't get more than 18 miles per gallon with my Galant???The advertised rates are anything between 21 and 28.
    By the way, does anybody know why the mitsu from the link is available just in Europe???It is nice one though!

    http://www.parkers.co.uk/choosing/car_reviews/main_review.asp?mod- el_id=1037
      
    also they have some trucks over there...like L200..see the link below!!!

    http://www.mitsubishi-cars.co.uk/l200/

    I wonder why there isn't GDI engines available to the US modifications..... thus are so economical that you will get surprised,and powerful too!
    Have a look here:

    http://www.parkers.co.uk/choosing/performance/performance.aspx?mo- del_id=1037

    please bare in mind that the British gallon is 4.5 liters and the US one is 3.78 liters
    and this is what an GDI engine does...I guess the block is 4G63,that is well known over here,The GDI magic is in the head of the engine!!

    If you want to know more about GDI...have a look here, it is rather interesting!!!

    http://www.mitsubishi-cars.co.uk/features/gdi.asp
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    My point was only in that some engines are used for long periods of time due to their stout reliable nature, not because the company can't afford to design something new. The Golf 2.0 is anemic (although actually feels pretty peppy in town up to 60mph, even with an automatic) and outdated but its an extremely reliable engine. Aside from a piston ring problem on some 00 models that caused oil burning, VW could count on the 2.0 to be long lasting and reliable (the rest of the car was a shot in the dark). Same goes for the 2.4 in the Galant. This engine is reliable and only slightly underpowered (it was one of the more powerful engines until the past 2 years). Having an iron block doesn't make it junk and doesn't say Mitsu is broke.

    Regarding the 3.8 V6, this engine was designed for both truck and car applications, just like Honda did with the 3.5. The fact one of its applications is a frame based SUV doesn't mean the V6 isn't suited for car duty. This is a SOHC 24 valve V6, not a pushrod 12 valve V6 like GM uses in their small trucks. The frame based Montero and Montero Sport used the same 3.5 V6 that was put in the Diamante luxury car. So how is the 3.8 any different? Anonymousposts is trying to make it sound like the Galant will be carrying around some massive unrefined trucky engine, but that simply isn't the case. Thus my problem with his statements. However, I too am curious to know what kind of mileage this engine will get. I'm sure it will be lower than the Accord/Camry but it should't be too far off. I'm not worried about weight distribution though because the new Galant is substantially larger so the weight gain up front should be evened out all around.

    I haven't received any new info on the Galant. I'm interested though since I'll be looking to trade in the Lancer in another year. Right now the Outlander has my vote, but it would be nice to get a V6 sedan.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    You need to give your engine some time to break in. Your mileage should improve around 5k. My Lancer initially got as low as 22-23 mpg in the city and it was rated at 24. Now, at 25k, I consistently get 26-27 mpg in the same drive. My mileage started improving right around 5k.

    As for the GDI engines, Mitsu couldn't bring them here due to the high sulfur content in our gas that would ruin the special catalytic converters required for these engines. They will continue to stay overseas until we start to reduce our sulfur.
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