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Also as mentioned, the use of Dexron/Mercon ATF will inevitably cause you a problem, either minor or major.
The "limp in mode" describes a transmission default mode in case of certain failures. Basically the transmission will start and stay in second gear with the transmission shift lever in the "DRIVE" position.
There are a number of reasons why the transmission will go into the limp mode. Low or high hydraulic pressures are the primary reason. Low hydraulic pressure could be caused by a clogged transmission filter or a failing transmission pump.
Based on the description of your symptoms the transmission is slipping and it could be something as simple as an exceptionally dirty transmission filter. The problem with this is that usually by the time a clogged filter shows up as a problem the transmission has already experienced damage from previous poor fluid flow because of it.
If there's anytime that you needed a real, real honest service repair place, it's now. Many transmission shops will seize upon the opportunity to sell you a complete rebuild when it may not be necessary.
Best of luck,
Dusty
We also were feeling a shudder on stopping and deceleration.
They replaced valve body and pan. ( this is what the invoice says)
I asked why after just having the transmission flushed but no one could tell me.They also said the transmission had gone into limp mode.
We bought the van(2002 Caravan) in May 2003 with 34,000 km and it has been a big problem all along.
Dusty
I've seen the inside of a transmission ,it has a lot of small passages and check balls that could cause problems if they get clogged up. Maybe, we should just change the fluid and filter and forget the flush.
We might be creating more problems by doing "over" maintenance on our transmission. Remember, if you change the filter and fluid, you have to make sure to keep everything clean. If you get some old gasket material or lint from a shop rag in the transmission pan, you can mess up a transmission.
If it isn't broke, don't fix it!
But,,, less then a 1000 miles later, I now have some severe shifting issues, and the check engine light comes on. Also, since the car has 37000 miles on it, the dealer who rebuilt the tranny said I need a new one and I have to pay....
Anybody know what the procedure is to get Chrysler to make good on one of these transmissions that has been problematic since under warranty?
Who knows what the fix may be??? I have had the sender replaced once.
Thanks wijoco. I took it to a different Dodge dealer (West Covina Dodge). They replaced the idler pulley and solved the noise problem.
"Right Rear (or just) Upstream O2S Stays at Center" with the explanation "Neither rich or lean condition detected from the oxygen sensor". I assume that this means one of the two oxygen sensors is malfunctioning. Which one is it? The manual references a Downstream Heated Sensor and an Upstream Heated Sensor. The later is pictured as installed on the exhaust manifold. I can find no description or service procedure for a Downstream Sensor. Is there only one?
Thanks in advance for any help.
"P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)"
Your service manual may be correct however, especially if it is a Chrysler factory shop manual.
The "downstream" O2 sensor will be found by following the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds, down towards the muffler/catalytic converter. You will see a wire going to it just like any other O2 sensor.
The P0134 simply means that the sensor output voltage isn't varying at all. Because of the age of your vehicle, this code might mean a poor electrical connection somewhere in the O2 sensor circuit back to the computer.
Good luck,
Dusty
Actually WIJOCO
is probably correct. I think that both definitions are pointing to the same thing. "Right rear" could be the Chrysler shop manual's way of saying "bank 1." Bank 1 would be, I think, at the rear of your engine compartment on a Chrysler mini-van. In either case it sounds like it would be the O2 sensor nearest the cylinder head.
I also agree with wijoco on the likely cause. I have seen very, very few O2 sensors go completely dead or steady-state. The one's that Chrysler has used in the past usually fail by going "lazy," meaning they don't react in a linear fashion to the rise in temperature. It usually is an open connection between the sensor and the computer, or a shorted wire (like wijoco said, to the exhaust manifold).
Chrysler use to pack their computer connectors with grease and I don't ever recall seeing a poor connection there, but if there is more than one connector between the sensor and computer, those would be a much more likely cause. The first one I'd check would be the connector at the sensor itself. That one is more prone to being degraded by corrosion from the environment.
Best regards,
Dusty
My question is this: How do you remove the plastic cover over the spare tire release nut? I tried to pry it up, and unscrew it, but neither way seemed to work. The owners manual just said to remove the cover, but didn't detail how to do this, and I don't want to damage it.
Thanks,
Frank
Thanks,
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By 80k, the A/C lost its refrigerant. There was a hissing sound from the vents when we would turn it on as the charge was leaking, and after a little while, it stopped making the noise and failed to cool at all. There is zero pressure in the system right now; I'll get it fixed in the spring if I'm unfortunate enough to still own it.
Last night (at 81k miles) the brake warning light flickered twice. Haven't looked into that one yet; don't really want to.
This is the newest vehicle I've ever owned (by 8 years and 60k miles). My other car is an '87 BMW 528e that I purchased with 149k and is going to turn over 195k tomorrow. The ownership cost between the two doesn't even begin to compare - it has cost me almost as much just to repair the Plymouth as it has to purchase AND maintain the BMW. I've had the Plymouth less than a year and the BMW almost three. It's even more painful when I consider that the BMW beats the Plymouth by 50% on fuel economy.
I'm getting ready to unload the Plymouth. Where is the incentive to "Buy American"?!? I'm most likely to look at "Japanese" SUVs - I still won't get good mileage, but the reliability should be on par with my BMW.
Our 97 GC LE with 129K has been a great van. No transmssion or electrical problems. Although it has not been as reliable as our old 89 Mazda MPV, but it has been OK. Never left us stranded. There is no rust or any type of leaks. Great van on long trips. It gets 23-24 miles on the highway.
I would like to fix the fan before selling it. The kids are grown and my wife does not need all that room anymore. She is done driving mini vans after 14 years.
Thanks,
Joe
Royallen,, thank you for your reply, I will check and report back.
Joe
My wife is on year 19 of minivan driving and I doubt if she will ever drive anything else. Our kids are almost out of the coup as well, but that room sure comes in handy occasionally, and she likes to be sitting up high in a minivan rather than a car, so a minivan will be in our future for many years to come.
On the other hand, you wouldn't want to take your wife, kids and suitcases on vacation in a corvette. That would really take the fun out of driving.
If people actually read their owner's manuals (which are written at a 5th-grade level) there would be only half as many posts on boards like these.
Our local Amoco station has worked on this van constantly (that's another sad story) and has checked the fuses and the electrical connections and has been unable to fix the problem other than to suggest taking it to a dealer.
I am not about to sink any more money into this turkey and prefer to drive at night with a small flashlight aimed at the dashboard to keep from speeding if nobody can come up with a better idea!
Is this lack of illumination a design "feature" or does my vehicle have an electrical defect? I will be seeing the dealer's service department in a couple of days.
Dash lights not coming on could be a dash light control switch moved to the "OFF" position. This switch could also malfunction leaving the lights off. A repair option other than a dealer would be an auto electric specialty shop. Roy
Thanks.
My buddy hit some pavement with the oil pan on his 96 caravan. Upon inspection, the oil pan is dented but doesn't leak, but it seems that gasket is leaking.
Does anyone have anything to relate to replacing an oil pan gasket?
Do you just put the new one in and tighten the screws, or is there any kind of glue you should use?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
Anyone heard of this in a brand new van? It has been very cold here,but I do warm it up for 10-15 min before I drive it. Just curious.