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Mitsubishi Galant

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Comments

  • boston14boston14 Member Posts: 111
    I have a 2000 ES and today I got a 91 Camry LE V6 loaded with the work with only 53,000 org miles and mint conditon for 7200. It was one of those owners who like me gets really picky about everything about their cars. I hope when my Galant gets up in miles and yrs I could sell it at a decent price.
  • 4u24u2 Member Posts: 17
    silverride, I'm glad that you're happy with the Altima, and made the right purchase decision for you. Unfortunately, you may have wanted to consider safety in your comparison. The Galant is much safer than the Altima.

    I went to the Nissan dealership to look at the Altima, but it felt and looked tinny. Perhaps, that's the reason for its marginal safety ratings.
    Additionally, I have side-impact airbags on my Galant.

    I am unsure of your criticism of the Galant's handling and ride. Many auto journalists from leading auto publications (Car and Driver and Consumer Guide) have applauded the Galant for these exact characteristics.

    Also, the Altima is not as fast as my ES V6. This engine is also much smoother than the coarse 4 banger in the Altima. The 4 cylinder Galant that I test drove was very smooth.

    The Galant offers 16" tires, as well. Perhaps, you test drove models that didn't offer the 16" tires.

    The past body style of the Altima was decent. But the current design of the Altima is worst than the blandmobiles from Toyota (Camry) and Honda (Accord).

    The Galant is hard to beat.
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    i purchsed mine's from don herring mitsu in texas thru the mail. it was about $50 or so. The car doesn't roll as much when you take a corner fast. I'm personally glad I got it. I think their website is www.donherring.com
  • flarearrowflarearrow Member Posts: 9
    Hate to burst anybody's bubble, but have you people seen these...

    http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/news/messages/878.html

    http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/editorial/features/mitsubishi/index.html

    I've driven the Galant at Edmunds Live and thought the car was a great performer, great alternative to Camry and Accord, and the styling is much better than Camry and Accord. But now I'm wary of Galant and Mitsubishi.
  • purp3purp3 Member Posts: 24
    Funny how not many people in this forum have talked about the brake problems on their 99 Galants! I love my car and would recommend it to anyone that is looking for one in its class! I think it beats Toyota, Honda, and Nissan by far!
  • sobright1sobright1 Member Posts: 78
    Earlier this year I wrecked my '90 Gallant with 183,000 miles on the odometer. It was the finest car I have ever owned. My wife is still driving a Mitsubishi LRV with 130,000+ miles, also a wonderful car. However, (just my opinion) any perspective Mitsubishi buyer should be aware of two substantial and long standing flaws in these vehicles. The go through brakes faster than any car I have ever seen. My own experiences have not been much unlike those cited in post 424 above. After performing brake job after brake job, on two occasions I replaced every part of the front brake system, which generally bought me a bit more time before another trip to the shop. Also, the automatic transmissions keep transmission shops in business. My Gallant went through two and my wife's LRV is on tranny number two which is weak again) right now. I strongly recommend that anyone who purchases a Mitsubishi product with an automatic transmission immediately install an oil cooler and change the transmission fluid every 25,000 miles. I don't know what to suggest could be done about the brakes. Oddly enough, having said all this I looked an new Gallants today. From extensive research on and off the web I am absolutely certain that either the Camry or Accord is, maintenance wise, a much better car but they are unfortunately BUTT-ugly.
  • flarearrowflarearrow Member Posts: 9
    Unfortunately, we live in an imperfect world.
  • shawn99v6shawn99v6 Member Posts: 4
    What Aftermarket Sport shocks are available for the >1999 Galants?
  • aes1519aes1519 Member Posts: 19
    I'm new to posting but have been studying the various messages for a while now. I'm buying my first new car and it's been agonizing. I like the looks of the Galant and the fact that it's not an accord or camry. The reason for my post is that these messages about the brakes and the often-replaced auto transmissions have me a bit leary about reliability. Sobright1 -- when did you need the 1st and subsequent transmis. & how often did you need new brakes? Knowing I might have this car for a while, I'd like to get an idea of what kind of maintenance I might be looking at in the next 3-5 years.
  • texrobintexrobin Member Posts: 13
    One thing you need to consider about all message boards, you are going to always hear more bad than good. People like to voice their concerns more than their good experiences. It's just human nature, I'm guilty of the same thing. I'm going on 5500 miles on my 2000 Galant. I have absolutely zero complaints about the car so far. I love it! IMO, I got the best car for the money I spent.
  • sobright1sobright1 Member Posts: 78
    Let me be clear, I was not attempting to voice "more bad than good" in my previous post. I cannot emphasize enough how much I loved and enjoyed my '90 Galant. I have gleaned much information from these forums and I just wanted to help pass on knowledge that might help other owners or potential owners make an informed decision and avoid potential problems. Having owned nothing but Ford products in the 20 years prior to purchasing my Galant, the Mittsubishi was hands down a much better automobile in virtually every aspect. By the way, I traded in a one owner Grand Marquis with only 60k miles on my Galant. However, bringing up potential brake problems, those same types of problems which were apparently covered up for years by Mitsubishi, is only being truthful based upon my own experience and, from all I have read, based upon the experience of many others. Regarding the transmission, I should have listened to my mechanic when the car was new and he recommended that the tranny fluid be changed often. Looking back, I consider this advise a vailed attempt to warn me of the weakness of the transmission. To answer your question regarding the transmission failures. My first rebuild was at @110k miles when the slippage got so bad that I could not get the car out of my own garage, the next was @140K when the torque converter went bad causing an odd shimmy (it would shake every 1/4 miles and only in overdrive. Before I figured out the problem I had replaced two rims attempting to solve the problem). Both times, the transmission began to malfunction perhaps 10K miles before the rebuild and both times I was able to buy more time by changing fluid. - Let me emphasize again, I learned something from my mistakes. Never tow anything, no matter how light in overdrive (I have a small john boat that I occasionally towed with my Galant). Spend the $50 to $100 dollars on a transmission cooler and change the fluid/filter often. I believe that, had I done these things, my original transmission would have lasted longer. For the record, I also needed a new starter at @120K, a new motor mount at @130K, and a new computer at @180K. The interior trim on the driver's headliner was also a poor fit and, though was replaced twice by the dealer under warranty, never fit correctly and kept falling down. The passenger side window was also very slow.

    By the way, the transmission on my wife's LRV first malfunctioned at @105K miles. The first problem occurred while on a trip and while attempting to accelerate up to speed getting on the expressway. Suddenly the engine reved and the transmission disengaged. The splines inside the torque converter completely stripped out. We had to be towed and repaired on the road. By 125K miles the same problem occurred again this time requiring a complete rebuild. Right now this vehicle needs another brake job, AGAIN! Other than these two problems, the LRV has been wonderful. It has the all practicality of the PT Cruiser only with more room, with a better engine, but sadly without the style. Despite the problems, if they still made them I would buy another LRV tomorrow.

    What was good about my Galant: Luxurious, comfortable, quiet, roomy, and long wearing interior, easier egress than many larger cars, cup holders/controls perfectly located, smooth ride, 26 mpg everywhere, excellent cruise control, dependable - though not necessarily overly powerful - air conditioning, lumbar support, relatively powerful and dependable engine, better looking than the competition, and a trustworthy and skilled service department at my local dealer. If the still made them in red there would already be one in my driveway problems and all.
  • sobright1sobright1 Member Posts: 78
    Man, sorry to hear about your experieces. The theme is common though, brakes, transmission, and a few other various parts. It appears that Mistubishi let quality slip throughout the 90's (reliability charts in Consumer's Report magazine bear this out). Perhaps the newer models will reverse this trend. For what it is worth, I have yet to see a rebuilt transmission that had the reliability of the original and it is really tough around here (near Memphis) to find a transmission shop that really knows what he is doing. However, I think that the dealer is nailing you on their repairs. I have never paid more than $1200 for a transmission rebuild, nor have I paid more than $200 for a brake job unless I replaced the rotors and calipers (which I typically did myself). Run from that dealer and find an independent shop. I also may have some insight into some of the problems with the brakes. Apparently brakes on some other makes are failing prematurely too. For example, if you visit the Nissan Maxima forum you will see similar complaints on the new models. Apparently many of the problems stem from the repair shops or dealers using an air wrench to tighten the lug nuts (common in the industry since the early 60's)instead of a torque wrench. The lug nuts not only hold the wheel on but also secure the rotor as well. Apparently, not tightening these lugs in a star pattern or applying too much pressure to one side before tightening the other plays a large part in these failures. Now for the hard part, unless you do all repairs yourself, can you imagine the look you are going to get from the tire installer at lets say Sam's, COSTCO, NTW, etc. when you request the use of a torque wrench instead of an air gun given that customers are typically lined up for service? Typically when I go to these types of places for alignment or new tires I feel good if the nuts are not cross threaded.
  • ultratechultratech Member Posts: 142
    Dude, those prices you're paying for repair are kind of high, unless you're using OEM parts and fixing it at the dealership .. this is what I pay around for most of my family's car around here in Independent Shops using Aftermarket stuff.
    -Timing belt, water pump, and hoses around it : $260
    -Brake pads (front) and turning rotors: $60
    -Change the rotors (front): $90
    -Computer in the transmition : $400
    -Head gaskets and rebuilt of head: $650 , or $800 for ORM parts.
    -Radiator: $250
    -front Axles: $120
  • amitsuowneramitsuowner Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the advice on the brakes - I'll avoid air wrenches. As far as the repairs, I had all of them done at Mitsubishi Service Centers all over the US (I'm a military officer). So my repair record may serve as somewhat of a sample of Mitsubishi service prices in Pennsylvania, New York, Washington and Virginia. I thought Mitsubishi service centers, although more expensive, had more credibility and could be trusted to do more reliable work, especially since they work exclusively on Mitsubishis. By the way, the 2nd transmission was not rebuilt - it was brand new, straight from the factory, and it too just failed after only 39,000 miles!
  • sobright1sobright1 Member Posts: 78
    I fully understand the military lifestyle as my father is a retired Navy chief of 30 years. Luckily, most of the time he as either stationed near Memphis or at sea so my family managed to, for the most part, stay put. Regarding the transmission, I considered a new transmission when mine failed but was advised at the dealer that NEW transmissions were not available and that any transmission I might order would be a "factory" rebuilt model. Either way, I share your frustration. Rather than continue to belabor the topic (I guess we have made our point) I am going to move on to another forum (probably Toyota Avalon, Nissan Maxima, or Hyundai GX300). I might add that I do so after a test drive of a new Galant (4 and 6) yesterday. In my opinion, they just aint what they use to be. I do wish all of those happy Galant owners the best of luck though.
  • rodmcpodrodmcpod Member Posts: 3
    I am very close to buying a car, and before I read all this discussion, the 2001 Galant GTZ was at the top of my list. But now I am having second thoughts. I am looking for a little information on reliability.

    For those of you that have had the new model galant (post 1999), can you give me your thoughts now about the good, the bad, and the ugly (I already know about the nasty wood trim).

    If you were to do it again, would you reconsider?

    Thanks.
  • marcinmarcin Member Posts: 64
    I would buy it again!
    Yes, I have some minor issues but EVERY car does. And at least I have a car with spankin' personality, not a lame looking Camcord :)
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    I brought a'99 GTZ so far no problem. This yr my wife just got herself a '00 GTZ-no problems with that one either.
  • js28js28 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2000 ES Galant last October 1999, and now it's November 2000 and it has over 13,000 miles on it (thru heavy New York City traffic; snow; potholes; and some plain-old open road country driving). Suffice to say, it still looks and feels like a NEW car to me. If you want to go to the repair shop, buy another car, 'cause the Galant is worry-free driving. It even got hit from behind by a Ford Aerostar Minivan not more than 3 weeks after I bought it and, aside from a few very minor scratches below the bumper, no damage was done and I felt like someone had just tapped me lightly on the shoulder. Besides, I've gotten nothing but compliments on it from my family and friends who have driven with me in it. And though I can't say how it will perform in 5 years (I have a 3-year lease), I can say that it is safe, easy to drive, handles well, and looks a lot sportier than the other comparable midsize cars I've checked out at the dealerships.
    Hope this helps if you are considering a smooth-to-drive car, with nice safety features, and don't want to spend more for the higher-end luxury cars.
  • ultratechultratech Member Posts: 142
    If you bother to scroll back like 200 posts or so, you should have an idea... Lots of complains as well as lots of compliments.. BUT remember if you car works perfect, you won't even bother to come to tell us about it... the only time you may come is when you develop some complain ...
    so for every complain, I'm sure there is 1000 compliments .. It's like car accidents on the freeway .. You will never hear on the radio about Cars running SMOOTH !!! only when cars break down !!

    btw, I bought my ES last Nov 99 , 4000 miles so far...

    If you really want proven realiability, go get a camry or accord that every one and their dog drives.
  • boston14boston14 Member Posts: 111
    2000 Mazda Protege ES 5 speed. I test drove one for a second car choice and let me tell you its is one sweet little ride. I thought the seats fit like a glove and the seating position and the great visibilty with the tight handling and sweet clutch and smooth revs were enought to make me get one. I think It is the most underrated car out there. I test drove the auto and it sucked peroid. This car comes to life with the stick and its like a different car with the 5 speed. For those out there who cant afford a new Galant, try a Protege ES stick and you will fall in love with it.
  • boston14boston14 Member Posts: 111
    I just want to praise a great product thats all.
  • ultratechultratech Member Posts: 142
    Hey, i know you bought your car about the same time I did Nov 99 .. Too bad you're changing cars .. although not a bad choice, my sister has a protege since 94 and it's been good and reliable, not to mention gas efficient....
    but this time do your homework before going into the dealership, don't make the same mistake you did last time with the galant ... Good Luck.!
  • boston14boston14 Member Posts: 111
    I just cant seem to park that size of a car well in a tight gargare or parallel park in well. When I go downtown or a place thats has parking problems, I take my 82 Corolla that I die in during the summer with no AC. I got two offers for my 9,800 mile 2000 ES 4 cyl and it was 12,000 and 10,000!!! OUCH! unless my name changes to Bill Gates JR I might have to get a 2nd mortgage to get another new smaller car.
  • ultratechultratech Member Posts: 142
    Just imagine the tax you paid $2000? which is gone, then add tax for the protege again , $1500? you're already off like $3500 only in tax .. not to mention big time depreciation on the galants ... so the switch may end up costing you like $8000 ... or more ..
    so unless you go marry Bill Gates' daughter (if he has any) LOL !!! :-), then it may be of your best interest to stick to the galant for some more years..
  • amitsuowneramitsuowner Member Posts: 16
    Here's an update:
    Mitsubishi refuses to budge (surprise, surprise) to cover any costs of my transmission replacement. Customer service is useless. To recap: the first replacement was at 62,000 miles (at which time I had a Mitsubishi service center put in a Mitsubishi-factory transmission), now 39,000 miles later the new transmission is inoperable. The dealer wants $650 to diagnose it! Customer service wants nothing to do with it, and were rude in my phone conversations with them. So much for customer care and reliability...
  • amitsuowneramitsuowner Member Posts: 16
    You want some '99 Galant feedback:
    My father has a 99 Mitsubishi ES. It has warped rotors all the time. It seems like they only last about 3,000 miles or so. And his car has < 15,000 miles. Interior construction is cheap also. Both front door handles have cracked already and are in need of replacement. On my 95 Galant, I leaned on the door armrest once while driving and cracked it. I'm not THAT big (195lbs).

    Anyway, my advice is to avoid the Galant like the plague. Mine is sitting in my driveway with it's 2nd broken transmission in ~100,000 miles and I still owe a lot of money on it.

    I've spent over 6,700 dollars in repairs to it (including a the parts bill for a rebuilt transmission now) in the past 2 years, since 60,000 miles. If you plan on keeping the Galant over 60,000 miles, you might as well buy a Mercedes Benz, financially speaking.

    Actually the Chevy Impala is looking good right now: ~23,000 loaded (much less expensive than the Galant), it's a full size sedan, 200 hp, and you get to deal with honest American service stations and dealerships.
  • ultratechultratech Member Posts: 142
    Well, if you make up your mind of not getting a galnt... just make sure not to buy any other american car neither, they suck as bad or worst .... everyone i know has problems with their american cars (ford, GD, chevy, etc)
    If you're not convinced with the mitsus , try toyota, honda, or nissan .. or any german car.
  • shawn99v6shawn99v6 Member Posts: 4
    thank you vac23, I got my stress bar from the place you posted and installed it in 15 minutes. All factory parts. very happy now
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    You're welcome. I'll send you my bill for my services :-)
  • msnmsn Member Posts: 2
    Hello Town Hall participants!

    I&#146;ve been reading and enjoying your comments for many months now, albeit it&#146;s been mostly in the Nissan Sentra group. I&#146;ve been delaying a purchase of a Sentra SE for roughly a year now, just waiting for the right moment to come along.

    Two months ago, I purchased a 2001 Galant &#147;ES, V6&#148; for my wife. Quite by accident, I fell in love with the car and the idea of settling for the Sentra SE was all but history.

    Well, I&#146;ve put all of my eggs into one basket as of today. I put a deposit down on a low mileage, one owner (verified via CarFax), used 2000 Galant, also an &#147;ES, V6&#148;. I&#146;m sure hoping that I don&#146;t experience the same troubles some of you good people have encountered. A double whammy of this sort would be crippling.

    Now on to my question, &#147;Puzzling Options?&#148;
    Since I researched the purchase of my wife&#146;s car, I was somewhat familiar with the options that are available on the 2000-2001 ES V6. Normal options for this trim do not include LEATHER INTERIOR or CASSETTE/CD stereo, however the car that I place a deposit on has these items and they are factory. It does not have anything else outside of what come standard on the ES V6 trim. The car was originally purchased in Texas.

    Does anyone have any ideas how these unusual options made it into this car? I&#146;ve searched Edmunds, CarPoint, and Mitsubishi sites and these aren&#146;t even listed as being available for this trim. I noticed that post #31 referred to purchasing an &#147;ES 4-cyl&#148; with unusual options as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    MSN
  • emp31emp31 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '87 galant and it's got auto suspension
    in that you can switch to sport or normal
    suspension and I believe it's got air/gar shocks
    that automaticaly adjusts. My problem is that if
    I
    were to replace these shocks, they costs $350 or
    so a piece. For a car this old, I really don't
    want to spend this much money. Does anyone know
    if
    I can replace them with regular shocks? I've
    contacted mitsubishi and a local mitsubishi repair
    shop and they haven't been helpful. The car rides
    as if it doesn't have any springs or shocks. It's
    like riding a go-cart when you hit bumps. It just
    bottoms out.
  • sobright1sobright1 Member Posts: 78
    Some of those odd option lists are due to local dealers. I know of one Memphis dealer that added leather seats and a few other goodies to base ES models...... Regarding reliability, have you noticed that most of those who rave about their Gallants still have relatively low miles? Admittedly, they are comfortable and fun to drive..... On American cars, the earlier post was unfortunately correct. According to Consumer's Reports, Ford has the best frequency of repair among the big three. How sad. A friend of mine has a '97 F150 with 150K miles that no dealer can fix, much less diagnose. It has run terribly for over two months. One Ford dealer put @$800 worth of parts on the truck then, when that didn't fix the misfire, told him that he needed a new engine. A second dealer did the same telling him that he had zero compression on cylinder six. My own compression test, which I might add was very difficult to do due to very poor design (the back cylinders are actually under the firewall) revealed @150 pounds of compression. Don't even kid yourself into thinking that the 1-800 numbers to Ford, as listed in the owner's manual, will do any good. Chances are the guy answering the phone will barely speak English, will not connect you with a supervisor, and will only take your name and number, never to be called. In summary, the Gallant is a much better car than its American counterparts but is still way, way behind the industry leading Hondas and Toyotas (ugly though they may be), which are followed closely by Nissan, Suburu, then Mazda and Mitsubishi (probably a tie between these last two).
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    I drive a 99 Galant ES, I took my car to the dealer to let them know about some vibration that I feel in the steering wheel between 70-80 mph ( not while braking ), first they thought it was the tire balance (tried the balancing did not work), then I showed them that there was a recall on my steering wheel box, first they didn't know of any recall, but when I asked them to run the VIN#, they found the recall, they looked at the car they said every thing is Ok with the box, but my vibration could be to a defect in the tires, well, last week I went a head and replaced all my tires with new tires, and the car is still has the vibration between 70-80 mph,
    does anyone have any ideas what is causing this vibration, (I don't want to keep on buying stuff for the car that It don't need), could a warped rotor (that a lot of people are talking about)cause this vibration.

    any help will be appreciated.

    regards
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    Did they check the front end & made sure everything is nice and tight? I bad ball joint or tie rod will cause vibration in the steering wheel.
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    yes, they said that every thing else was solid
  • mitsugirlmitsugirl Member Posts: 1
    As for no one commenting on the long term reliability of the Galant, I have a '92 with 220k (no that's not a typo) that I would love to clone. We bought it used and cheap in college with 80k and replaced the clutch at 180k. After 2 kids, a dead deer and six snowy winters I'm having a hard time finding another car/suv/anything that I can replace it with. I've been eagerly reading reviews and posts for a month but all that information hasn't helped. I really enjoyed the new one I drove but the stuff about the company looks a little shaky. Well, you guys keep up the banter. I'm still on the look out for another "put in gas, change oil and drive forever"-mobile.
  • amitsuowneramitsuowner Member Posts: 16
    Yes. I had the same problem on my 1995 Galant LS - vibration around 70mph. I got that taken care of with my 90k service which cost me $1028. The problem was engine and transmission mounts. I think the dealer will charge somewhere between $400 and $500.
  • quikgtzquikgtz Member Posts: 2
    I had my wife's 99GTZ in three times for the same vibration...first time there was a horrible noise to go with it. Replaced wheel bearing(after having to waint two weeks for a new one to come in)...no fix. Second time for recall...no fix. I turned around and got a tech to ride with me. He got nervous at 85mph when he could hear my watch jingling. Third time they checked alignment and balanced all the tires. Vibration went away. All this happened between 7k and 10k. We're at 19k now without it returning....however in my next post, I'll talk about that awful noise coming from the rear deck!
  • quikgtzquikgtz Member Posts: 2
    Our 99GTZ has a bad squeek and or clunk coming from either the rear seat or back deck and glass. Our dealer is primarily Pontiac...so they are not really much help. I've never even seen a ES v6 on the lot. Any ideas?
  • workathomeworkathome Member Posts: 13
    All right everyone.... what the heck is that noise coming from the rear interior deck??
    Sounds like the glass rattling, but then you go back there and you can't duplicate it. Is it the deck moving, the child safety locks
  • harrisot00harrisot00 Member Posts: 2
    In my 2000 GTZ I can't yet identify the sqeek coming from the back end, but mine appears to be directly tied to torquing the body - if you drive over a bump with only the driver's wheels, I hear it when the rear wheel goes over.

    Just some quick thoughts on some of the items mentioned on the forum:
    Automatic transmission durability - change the fluid every 15k miles. Transmissions are like people, some die young and some very old. In some cases there is a cause (poor diet, lack of exercise) and sometimes not. If you change the fluid every 15k miles and drive like an adult, you are statistically much better off.
    Front end vibration - the most usual cause is tires. Make sure they are BALANCED and ROTATED regularly. There are a host of mechanical problems that can also cause this. You can eliminate some of them if you jack up the car, grab one of the front tires 180 degrees apart, push with one hand and pull with the other. Depending upon where you grab and whether it moves, you may be on the right track.
    Rotor wapage - rotors typically warp because they are unable to appropriately handle the heat generated while braking. Looking at my 2000 GTZ, I can say the brakes are not underdesigned. Nobody with a 1999-2001 Galant will have enough miles to have worn a rotor thin yet. This leaves us with a more unusual cause for rotor warpage - improper torque on lugnuts. This is a common problem on my other car. Try to make sure that mechanics do not use an air-wrench to but your wheels back on!
  • sobright1sobright1 Member Posts: 78
    All of the above posts concerning vibration are absolutely correct. You might first try taking the car to another balance & alignment shop. Unfortunately not all shops know what they are doing and the problem sounds most like either an alignment or balance problem. Additionally, Gallants tend to brake motor mounts with some frequency. My local dealer keeps them in stock. There is at least one other possibility, admittedly a long shot, that has not been mentioned. Believe it or not the torque converter in the transmission can malfunction and cause just such a vibration. On my last Gallant, after several attempts to align/balance the tires, I replaced rear wheels, rear wheel bearings, then the front motor mount, yet the problem persisted. Finally I noticed that the vibration only occurred while using overdrive and cured the problem by having the transmission rebuilt (again).
  • mpevznermpevzner Member Posts: 41
    I have a 99 ES V6. I complained about the vibration to the dealer. The dealer said the following: We do not guarantee that your car even run at 80 mph. The speed limit is 65, so if there's a problem that we can reproduce at 65 we'll try to fix it. So your car may be falling apart at 67 miles per hour - they wouldn't give a $h!t. The speed limit is 65 :( My 2 cents on the reliablity of american cars: I have an '87 Wrangler Jeep. Runs like a champ. Gives me no trouble. Bought it for $2K from a friend :) Anyway, Mitsubishi builds cars that don't run, airplanes that don't fly and tanks that are unusable for any kind of combat. Sounds like a real looser to me. I wouldn't buy any mitsubishi product ever again, neither a car, nor a TV nor anuthing else that has a "triple diamond" on it. Being a Galant owner I would strongly discourage anybody from buying a Galant.
  • boston14boston14 Member Posts: 111
    For those who cant decide to buy the Galant or not? I have a word of advice. Dont buy the thing new. They are good wheels but have awful resale value just like the Fords, GMs and other domestic cars. Let someone else take the 4 to 5 thousand first yr loss. I got my new and will never never get another new car again. The closest maybe is one that is 1 yr old and under 12k. I tried to trade mine in and got 12500 max for my 2000 Es 4 cyl with only 10k. Please if you buy the Galant new there is going to be hugh pain come trade in time or private sale.
  • dallastexasdallastexas Member Posts: 4
    I am thinking about buying a new one tomorrow, but reading all the problems you all have been having is making me rethink it.
    Thanks
    Cary
  • eanderson2eanderson2 Member Posts: 1
    On Sept.22 I took delevery of a 4cyl.ES. It's great looking car thats very stately in appearance and a roomy cabin to boot.However, after about 300 miles the SRS airbag indicator came on and lasted a full weekend. I took it back to the selling dealership to have it checked, of course the light went out before I got there.They hooked a handheld computer up to it and it showed a problem with the passenger front or side airbag. They said there was nothing they could about it because the srs light was not on at that time. Since then this has happend twice and even left the car with them,still no luck. Tonight, it came on again. This is driving me nuts.The dealership tells me it has to be there and the SRS light has to on,despite a computer code of RHSIDE A/B 272. Please help!! I hate that I already regret this purchase. Eric.
  • dallastexasdallastexas Member Posts: 4
    I am now leaning towards not buying one. I think if I put a few hundred dollars of repairs in my car I can get a few more years out of it.
    How much did you pay?
  • amitsuowneramitsuowner Member Posts: 16
    I was looking at buying a 92 used honda civic to replace my crappy 95 Galant LS. Get a load of this: My fully loaded (leather interior, 6-CD changer, moonroof, etc.) 95 Galant LS is worth less than a 92 Honda Civic!!! I guess that should come as a surprise though. Ladies and gentlemen, the "looks" of the Galant is not even close to being worth the trouble. Get an Accord or Camry. After reading the above posts, buying a Galant would simply be irrational.
  • amitsuowneramitsuowner Member Posts: 16
    By reading my above posts, you all know I have suffered from severe reliability problems with my Galant, and now with the tranmission broken I do not know what to do. I have a 93 Grand Cherokee with over 102,000 miles on it which runs great and requires little maintenance, and could survive with only one car. So how do I get rid of my Galant. It has devalued quicker than I could pay off the loan (I'm about $2500) upside down in the loan, and I can't stand the thought of spending an extra penny on fixing it. I definately want to get rid of it, but the question is how, and everyday I keep it, its losing value quicker than most cars. I am going to have trouble selling it with a broken transmission. What should I do? Should I trade it for a honda or fix it and try to sell it...?
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