Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

gami · May 2004

My family have bought Dodge cars/minivans most with Mitsubishi engines in the past 20 years (always brand new, Newport, Colt, Avenger, Caravan and Voyager). On the 1997 Voyager the transmission failed at 79,000 miles (repair cost $1,375.00). Replace timing belt, Replace tensioner, Replace two cam seals, Replace one crank seal, Thermostat, Replace water pump, Drain radiator and flush at 87,000 ($500). At 101,000 Factory recall to replace clock spring. Other routines are brake pads/linings/drum repair and or replacement. We always change oil/filter at 3-4000 miles, A/T fluid/filter every 30,000 miles. Have not replaced spark plugs ever since. Voyager now have 102,200 miles and are planning to purchase 2005 Caravan XLT and probably will keep the old one for some time as back up. I can not say I am very happy with the routine repairs but are there any other Dodge owners having great success with less maintenance? Any comments is greatly appreciated.

vcheng · May 2004

Now has about 64000 miles. Other than routine (oil/filter every 5 k, and spark plugs, tires and brakes once) I have had to replace the high note horn ($20), tensioner (about $60), left rear wheel bearing (about $170).

So far it has been reasonable. I will try to post a summary of all costs if I find the time, I have all the receipts since day one.

badgerfan · May 2004

I think the bearing in my serpentine belt tensioner pulley is starting to go out, as it is making a bit of noise. I managed to quiet it down with a squirt of WD-40 but I don't suspect this will be a permanent fix. The spring tensioner function works OK, just the pulley bearing itself seems to be noisy.

Anybody replace this as a do it yourself project? If so, any tips? Does the hex head that is available on the end of the pulley centerline which is used to release belt tension with a wrench also unscrew to make remove the pulley, or does the whole pulley and arm have to be replaced as a unit?

vcheng · May 2004

...pulley and arm is one unit, secured by a single bolt that is accessible from below the engine, and should be done with a cold engine only.

The procedure is basically remove the belt, crawl underneath, undo the bolt, put on the new tensioner, and then replace the belt.

Don't forget to also check out the idler pulley that also has a bearing.

badgerfan · May 2004

Thanks for the tip. Sounds like not too tough a job. I replaced the belt myself about 6 months ago, so as long as I can access the single bolt for the pulley and arm, it shouldn't be too tough.

What other pulley are you talking about? I assume you mean a different non-tensioning idler pulley that redirects the belt to the other belt driven components?

I am 99% sure that just the tensioner pulley is noisy, as once I got a little WD-40 into that pulley, everything else was quiet.

vcheng · May 2004

the other pulley I was referring too. This is located towards the front, over the AC compressor, and is about the same size as the tensioner pulley, only that it does not have the arm and spring tensioner bit attached to it. This comes off the from of the pulley with a bolt (ie the right side of the vehicle).

If WD40 quietened the noise, it may not be the tensioner pulley. Sometimes, the grooves and the ridges, with wear, will make that noise too.

If the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley goes bad, it makes a characteristic sound that usually does not respond to things like WD40. Sometimes, the pulley loses just a bit of alignment, and that lead to a thrown belt when for example driving through a rain puddle.

In any case, this is not a difficult job.

Some hints: Ramps make things easier. Wear long sleeves. Work on a cold engine. The tensioner pulley bolt cannot be seen, but can be felt with fingers. Make sure you get the socket (15 mm I think) on right, otherwise it will be hell to remove if you strip the corners. Check the new tensioner for any roughness on the seating surface, as even a small amount of casting excess will make the belt likely to be thrown off.

Good Luck.

badgerfan · May 2004

Thanks again. I am well aware of the perils of working on a hot engine.

I have done some further research and it appears that one can buy the tensioner pulley only without the arm and spring, at least on an aftermarket basis. I will probably take a look at the parts before buying to decide which route to go

I used the plastic tube nozzle on the WD40 to attempt to just get it into the bearing area, so I don't think the pulley grooves got lubed. Don't want to lube a belt if I can help it, not prudent to lube something that isn't supposed to slip.

royallen · May 2004

My report is for a '95 Caravan 3.3L 4 sp auto: bought 1/99 @ 47000, now @ 104000; 3/00 lifetime front bk pads $32 replaced again 2/03, water pump & belt 7/01 $180, 9/01 windshield $194, AC service 4/03 $72, again 4/04 $90. Remainder are preventive maintenance, tires, battery, etc. Over all as good as any car I've owned except the paint is a weakness with several spots pealing off. Roy

michael700 · May 2004

I've got a 2001 T&C Limited and it has an A/C condensation leaking into the front passenger compartment. This occurs whenever we drive for more than 1 hour with the A/C on. It doesn't leak when it rains, unless the A/C is on for more than 1 hour. :-)

I've taken it to the dealer several times:

1st time the drain hose was cleaned out, this did nothing.
2nd time the drain hose was replaced with a longer hose according to the TSB on this vehicle. This fix was done late in the summer. The leak didn't occur again that summer, but don't remember that it was ever called to serious duty again that season.
3rd time (following summer) the dealer spent 2-3 days trying to get the vehicle to leak--they let the vehicle idle with the A/C on high. This did not cause the leak to occur. My theory is that the leak only occurs when the vehicle is in motion and the water is draining back against the body of the vehicle and not just dropping straight to the ground. The dealer wasn't interested in my theories and thought I was wasting his tech's time trying to find a leak. He even suggested that the water was the result of one of my kids spilling a glass of water!

Any ideas?

gami · May 2004

Check A/C for proper Freon charge and proper air circulation.(1) If the A/C is insuficiently charged there is tendency for the system to accumulate more condensate. The amount of condensate probably is more than the drain line can handle. Check A/C evaporator case insulation. If the A/C evaporator is not well insulated, condensation will form on the outside of the evaporator case which will eventiually drip to the floor.(2) Poor air circulation is caused, among other things, by partially plugged evaporator coil. Air will bypass through the drain pan and could dislodge the condensate out and over the case on to the floor. This will happen when the car is in motion.
This problem happened on my voyager 1997 where the evaporator is located on the top of the front passengers left leg.(3) Check for cracks on the evaporator coil case plit joint. Hope this will help.

cuddlyduddly · June 2004

The left dash speaker in my 2002 GC buzzes intermittently, and quite loudly. Been to the dealer SEVERAL times and they can never find or fix the problem. Basically they are just telling me tough luck. Has anyone had this problem, what was the cause and how was it fixed?

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tomtomtom · June 2004

take out that speaker and replace it with any speaker you can find to see if the buzzing still there. If not, you know what the problem is then. The speakers at the dash or in the rear (car) are the easiest to be damaged by the sun so that might be the case.

leomc · June 2004

My 2000 Voyagerr runs great and is very reliable with no problems....except- the disc pads wear out every 6000-7000 miles. I have tried different pads and have replaced the calipers. Does anyone else have this problem??

hansienna · June 2004

Do you live in hilly country?
A friend's 99 GC has 64,000 miles on original disc pads.
Obviously the type driving is the most important factor in disc pad or drum brake shoe lining wearing out prematurely.

dustyk · June 2004

Leo,

Six to seven thousand miles on front pads is premature wear. There are a number of things that could be influencing short pad life.

*Poor pad quality or incorrect pad type -- Many people are reporting low pad life with ceramic or organic composition pads. The factory originally installed semi-metallic material and that's what should be on your vehicle. There is also a wide degree of quality range with semi-metallic as well.

*Poor rotor surface condition -- Vehicles driven short distances in high humidity or wet environments will often suffer from rust scuzz build up on the rotor surface. This inhibits stopping and aggressively expends pad material in order to stop the vehicle.

*Sticking or frozen calipers -- If you've replaced them very recently they're probably okay, but the dust boots can become damaged from stones or other debris that could cause the piston bore to take in moisture and rust prematurely.

*Defective master cylinder -- Yes, it happens. If the pressure valve sticks the brakes will stay partially applied all the time.

*Defective brake hoses -- As the material ages and is sofened by brake fluid, the rubber hose from the frame to the caliper can become constricted and hold pressure at the caliper even though the brake pedal has been released. This is usually common with vehicles that are older than five or six years, but I've seen it on some that weren't that old.

*Conditions/Driving Habits -- If you live in hilly country you will not get the optimum mileage out of brakes. If you tow heavy trailers or carry heavy passenger or cargo loads, this will have a bearing on brake life, too. However, the miles you're reporting are still too low in my opinion. With no offense intended, one must examine the driving habits of all the drivers who use this vehicle. Fast drivers and pedal-riders can expect excessively short pad life.

Best regards,
Dusty

leomc · June 2004

Yes-The hilly country is San Francisco, but I should get more life out of pads.

Thanks for the response.

leomc · June 2004

Thanks for the info. San Francisco is pretty hilly.

flcaravan203 · June 2004

2003 Caravan with 15,000.

Check engine light came on Friday morning. Then, the temperature guage started jumping up and down, one second it was normal, the next it was near the red mark. Took it to the dealership. They said the temp sensor was bad. They replaced it but it still had the problem.

Now for the strange part. I started to drive it home and the RPM s were jumping up and down. I had to push hard on the brake at the first red light to keep the van from lurching forward. Most of the warning lights also flashed on and off. I started from the red light and the van jolted back and forth and I could barely excellerate. Barely got it back to the dealership. It's there now but they aren't even sure what the problem is.

stever · June 2004

Pretty odd - someone over in Got a Quick, Technical Question? may have some ideas.

Steve, Host

bluebomber98 · June 2004

Well I did it. I just purchased a 2003 Grand Caravan Sport with 22,000KM. The van did NOT come with an owners manual.

Does anyone know how you program the garage door opener remote button in the overhead console?

Also, can anyone tell me what the round button rocker switch (marked l and 0) at the bottom of the right hand side of the center radio/heater console is for?

Thanks

hayneldan · June 2004

Go to www.homelink.com to learn how to program garage door opener. I cant find the switch you mention on my 03 or in my 03 manual. Can you be more specific? There are 3 rows of controls on the center console, the top row controls the front seat heaters rear window wiper and hazard switch. The second row is the radio CD Tape player. the third row is the heater Ac panel. Below that is a storage cubby or DVD player.To the left are two power outlets and the pull out cupholders. Below that is the main large storage bin. No other round rocker switch is on our 03 ES, or in the owner's manual.???????

bluebomber98 · June 2004

Thanks so much. The van has aftermarket Pioneer DVD player in the large storage compartment. It also has a "black box" which has two AC outlets under the drivers seat. The switch I am referring to is at the top right hand corner of the storage cubby. It is almost directly beneath the "windshield defroster" icon. The switch must be aftermarket. When I move it from the "O" to the "l" position, the radio reception cuts out almost as if the antenna is being disconnected. I know what shop installed the electronics. I will ask them.

bluebomber98 · June 2004

The rocker switch is for the DVD sound. It puts the soundtrack through the radio at 89.1 FM.

stever · June 2004

Don't get caught in the rain without a manual:

link

Lost manuals must be common to Grand Caravans :-)

Replacements are available - try a net search or check eBay. Dodge has them too (some models) for $10 US at Dodge.com in the owners section.

Steve, Host

duke87nuke · June 2004

I just had my 2nd battery go out - both in under 18 months! They were in a 2001 T&C LXi with the tow package, so they're the slightly bigger MOPAR 600 amp batteries with a 60 month warranty. Both times it happened with no warning - we got back in the car and it wouldn't start at all and the battery would not take a charge. The 1st time I could barely jump it and nursed it to the dealer who swapped me a new one under warranty. This time, it wouldn't a jump at all & it was Sunday, so I had to go get a new one at Sears and put it in myself. Luckily I was around both times. I do not expect a new van to be stranding my wife & 3 kids.

I live in Atlanta so heat is the main thing that could impact battery life. Both batteries devloped some sort of internal fault and would not take any charging current. Is this a common problem with MOPAR batteries or does it have to do with the T&C's electrical system? Anybody ever had Chrysler reimburse them under the 60 month pro-rated battery warranty for purchasing a non-MOPAR battery when it left them standed?

gak · June 2004

I've got a 2003 Dodge GC sport with 10,600 miles on it. I've had all sorts of problems right out of the box with this van, here's the list in the order of occurence:
1. Scratched on delivery (2 dealer visits to fix)
2. Windshield wiper fliud reservoir leaks
3. Antilock wheel sensor
4. Transmission problems- put in drive and take of then it acts like its in neutral, after a few seconds drops back into drive with a clunk ( 3 trips untill they replaced the front pump?, claimed a DC service bulletin covered the problem)
5. A/C - Replaced the Compressor (4 trips and counting) but if the car sits for a day or 2, when I first turn on the A/C, a loud Clunking sound is heard (not even close to being normal sounding). One time I was going about 10-15m/hr and turned the A/C on, the whole front of the van shuddered. This only happens the first time it is turned on, if I turn it off and then on again, everything works properly.
6. Power Steering Hose ruptures
7. Transmission is acting up again but only once and not as bad as before???

The van is NOT abused at all, maintenance performed by dealer, no towing. All the transmission and A/C problems only seem to show themselves after the van sits for a day or two. The van doesn't see that much use, it sometimes sits for 5 days without being used, this is when the last transmission slip occurred. Anybody have any thoughts about this, is this a canidate for the Lemon law??? In spite of all this I really do like the car but I'm starting think I should take the hit and get rid of it.

jag · June 2004

I bought my van new in 2002, and have had nothing but problems from the start. The dealer replaced the rotors and pads at 4000 miles due to severe pulsing. They claimed that it came from sitting on the dealer lot too long, but little did they know that I special ordered the van and picked it up within 2 days of delivery from a different dealership. I'm at 28,000 miles now, and just replaced the pads and rotors again!!!!

I had a major leak from a defective seal in the transmission. Cov. under warranty

New alternator and serpentine belt, 27,000 miles. (No Towing).

New Right tie-rod replaced. Cov. under warranty.

Heat vents were not calibrated correctly, and I still cannot get my left leg area to get warm even after driving 12 miles or so. Tough Luck for me I guess.

Roof Rack whistles constantly. Dealer cannot fix. Very annoying if the radio is not playing.

Front right Goodyear tire is thumping already.

I am completely unhappy with this van. I am currently shopping for a new vehicle, and I will be losing my but because the trade-in value is so low. Buyer Beware!!!!!

pasi100 · June 2004

I have a 2002 Voyager w no problems so far (30k miles, 1st battery), until this morning. I tried to turn on the engine but nothing happened ("klak") except that the lights went off and on, wipers moved up and down but slowly, the lights inside the car also went on and off, and my CD box changed CDs continuously. This indicates that the battery was not completely flat. However, power windows did not work, nor the radio. And the engine did not start. I thought the battery is dead so I used my other car to boost the "flat" battery. And it worked; the engine started immediately. I drove ca. 20 min w/o problems. And then comes the strangest part; when I increased the rpm to 3000, all lights started to flash in the tachometer!!!

Then I drove my car in my garage and turned off the engine and started it again. Nothing happened again, except the same story (klak, lights went off and on like grazy, wipers moved up and down but slowly, the lights inside the car also went on and off, and my CD box changed CDs continuously but power windows did not work, nor the radio).

My neighbour said this has nothing to do w the battery.

Very weird.

Any views?

stever · June 2004

Check the battery :-)

Steve, Host

crkeehn · June 2004

Have the battery and charging system tested.

badgerfan · June 2004

I changed the idler tension pulley last week. Bought an aftermarket part from a Checker Auto parts store. Their internet price was less than the price in the store, but they gave it to me for the internet price that I had printed out, which was a little less than $20. This was for the pulley only with the bearing, not the tensioner assembly part.

It went in OK and seems to have quieted the intermittent chirping and clicking. The biggest problem was getting the serpentine belt back on all the pulleys, which took a while, but eventually worked out with a bit of patience.

yumi · June 2004

We have a 2002 Caravan that was converted to handicapped accessible by Braun. Power steering went dead while we were on highway. Imagine you have to steer a heavy steering wheel while driving by hand!

It was nothing to do with conversion. Totally Dodge's problem.

I wish Honda Odyssey can be converted. I will switch right away.

hansienna · June 2004

Before you switch, be advised that there are also many problems being reported with the Odyssey here in the Town Hall.

duke87nuke · June 2004

Definitely sounds like the battery - see my earlier post. I saw the same symptoms, but mine didn't recover as yours did. Sounds like you have an internal battery fault that has probably not fully shorted ooutthe battery yet.

upshift · June 2004

My 2003 T&C has intermittent short and extended period losses of transmission, headlights, wipers, HVAC, dashboard warning lights and gauges, door locks, etc. The problems manifest in a variety of ways. For example, sometimes it is just loss of shifting for a few seconds, sometimes for 100 miles. Sometimes no headlights when I turn on the vehicle. The problems frequently start when I turn the headlights on while the car is moving. Dealers replaced wire harness, transmission controller, and checked wiring several times. DTC "upshifted at speed".
Have you experienced similar problems? Any ideas on what is wrong?

bradestokes · June 2004

The window is stuck open. Trying to use power controls to open or close results in motor noise, like it's running/worknig but the window is "off the track". I pulled the door cover off but didnt see anything that "jumped out at me". Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

hayneldan · June 2004

could be a loss of ground to the body control module.

Kirstie_H · June 2004

Yes, mr. kirstie_h had the body control module replaced on his 300M last week because of the exact same symptoms... only he waited too long, and totally lost power (engine too) while driving. I'd check it out ASAP. If you're under warranty, this is included.

kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

upshift · July 2004

Chrysler SARS has recommended that the shift interlock be replaced.

geream · July 2004

I have a 2001, Chrysler Town & Country Limited. The last month or so (Summer Season), I have noticed that when I leave the van sit for a while after driving to work, then come back to start it after work, the radio volume is 50% or so higher than when I turned the engine off. The volume is controled by buttons on the back of the steering wheel or by the radio knob, itself.

Has anyone else experienced this, or have a fix?

andrelaplume · July 2004

Mind if I ask what you 03 Caravan cost? Are you getting an extended warranty?

dho · July 2004

My 1994 had front end shaking/vibration between 35 & 40mph. The vibration is not as noticable at lower and higher speeds. Sometimes if the tire is out of round, the vehicle will wobble. This will occur at all speeds though. The problem is a worn cv joint. I replace both the driver and passenger side axles and now the van doesn't shake anymore. Both axles had a bad inner cv joint.
Cost my about $150.00 in parts.

xingze_cai · July 2004

The trim on the right side of my Dodge Caravan was losing recently, I bought the trim adhersive tool from a local store and apply it to my car, however, it seems it does not help at all. Can anybody give any suggestions here?

Thanks!

fhohio · July 2004

My 1999 Caravan's battery died without warning a little after 3 years. The replacement, which was not Mopar, just died this weekend. It didn't make it 2 1/2 years. I don't know if all of the dome lights, etc. take a drain on the battery over time, but I have heard that the batteries for these vans tend to have short lives. For whatever this is worth....

gthorson · July 2004

For the past two weeks, my 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager has been slipping into limp-in mode (i.e. locks into 2nd gear) when accelerating at low speeds. When I do so, the "Check Engine Soon" light comes on. If I shut off the car and restart, the transmission will function properly for a short period, but if I continue to drive at slow speeds followed by acceleration, it will again go into limp-in mode. If I can get to high speeds (above 40 mph), it will perform fine until I slow down to lower speeds and again need to accelerate. My repair facility is confused. When they hooked up the van to the computer, they got a low voltage to the transmission message. They then proceeded to change a relay switch (no success) and today replaced the transmission module (again no success). Any recommendations?

hayneldan · July 2004

Had the same problem with my 99 Intrepid. Dealer changed both input and output sensors on the trans and it is fixed.

bluebomber98 · July 2004

Pas de problem Andre.

We bought our 2003 Grand Caravan Sport (with aftermarket power take off and DVD player) for $22,369 Canadian (approx 16,750 US) It had 21,800 Kilometers (about 13,000 miles)

We since have taken it on two long weekend trips, one with three people and one with six people aboard with no problems yet whatsoever.

We did take additional extended warranty. I did not want to do it. I have lost money on extended warranties on the last two vehicles I purchased extended warranties on (a 95 Sable and a 00 Focus) but my wife wanted to do it. After 31 years, I tend to do what she says.

mistelle · July 2004

I have been looking for a mini-van I can trade my 98 Chevrolet Malibu for. The dealer showed me 99 Plymouth Voyageur. Does anyone know anything about this make and any problems with the 99's? Someone said there were problems with transmissions in some years.

Thanks!
Mistelle

bunny · July 2004

Is .30/mile a fair buy back user fee?

badgerfan · July 2004

Mistelle,

I suggest you read back in all the Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country Edmunds discussions, then take a big aspirin as your head will be swimming!

Chrysler has had some minivan transmission problems in the past, but not as widespread as some would have you to believe and the newer ones I believe have rectified whatever problems there were in the past. By 1999, I think you will be getting a good one. Our 1996 has been fine, now at about 78K miles.

There are also about four different engines and maybe at least three different variations of transmissions in vans of that era. Very common is the 3.3 liter V-6 with 4 speed automatic. I would stay away from the 4 cylinder version as I think it is underpowered, not because of any particular known problem.

Otherwise, I would look for a low mileage one that has not been abused. You may be able to get maintenance records if the car was dealer serviced. You could also pay an independent mechanic to check it out before purchase. Good luck!

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