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Volvo S80

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Comments

  • t6tolert6toler Member Posts: 19
    The issues regarding warm-up do apply to the 2.9 engine. Having the turbochargers does increase the feel of the hesitation because at 2000 RPMs the chargers effect kicks in and gives a dramatic surge when the engine is cold, this mellows as the engine heats up. The transmissions on the 2.9 and the T6 (incidentally, for 2002 the T6 is now 2.9 liters also) are the same, with the T6 simply having the shift control feature available to the driver. Both cars engine management systems are programmed to hold higher RPMs when the engine is cold to help boost the catalytic converter temperature which increases its effectiveness against emissions. These functions can feel 'weird' on today's cars as more and more computers are used to adjust fuel input and to monitor emissions. Please write back to let us know what you find out at your service.
  • peeetepeeete Member Posts: 136
    has anyone had any good/bad experiences with Martin? thanks!
  • dougf2dougf2 Member Posts: 21
    Does anyone else ever have problems shifting out of park? Yesterday my car was towed (not a pretty site) to the dealer because it was stuck in park. It happened before and they said they replaced the shift assembly.
  • driven123driven123 Member Posts: 1
    Love the S80 (2000) but succession of McPherson Strut defects is driving me crazy. RF found defective. Dealer
    refused to replace in pairs, so a few months later, I returned with similar complaints about the LF strut and they replaced it. For the past
    3 months now, the right rear is making noise and when it hits a bump, especially on a curve, it loses a grip on the road.
    Dealer head mechanic had two opportunities to diagnose this, didn't hear it the first time, refused to replace.
    Finally admitted hearing it the second time, but brought in a regional advisor who claimed not to hear it, so they
    dropped the matter altogether. Meanwhile the problem is getting worse. Anyone had this problem? The mechanic also mentioned that there is an unfixable noise in this model year and in 99's from the right front, but this is clearly right
    rear origin in my opinion. Anyone got any ideas?
  • drew31drew31 Member Posts: 4
    Happened to me (2001 S80 T-6) about a month ago. Coming out of parking garage, attendant stopped car, put in Park with windows open and shut off ignition. When I started, could not shift out of Park. Tried (very, very slightly) to move car in case "pin" or whatever was struck; didn't work. Kept turning ignition off then back on, trying to shift, n/g. Finally left it alone for a few minutes (while frantically looking through manual for any hint of what was going on; couldn't find anything). By this time, after maybe 3-5 minutes, tried again, restarted the ignition, and presto - easily shifted out of Park into Drive. Theory (or maybe just wishful thinking): may have been caused by combination of factors/circumstances that Volvo's S-80 security system "recognizes" as a profile of someone attempting to steal the car. While no alarm went off, could be part of Volvo's anti-theft imbedded software/electronic protection. One reason I think this is I used to own a Lexus and when I had picked it up new from the dealer, the salesman spent literally 10-15 minutes outlining the combinations (partly opened windows, unlocked trunk, trying to lock or left open trunk/windows/doors out of logical sequence, etc...) that either freezed the shifter or set off alarm. Also, a friend of mine was with me and on his own mentioned it probably was related to an anti-theft security feature triggered by what it interpreted as an odd sequence. Don't know if this is valid, just thought I'd pass on. BTW, never happened again.
  • yinghyingh Member Posts: 6
    I want to say that I am too a happy owner of a S80 T6. Have it for 41 months, 30K, no problems at all!

    Mine is one of the earliest productions when the car was first introduced, ordered directly from the manuafactuer.

    The only three times I have to take it to the dealer besides its regular services were two trips for headlight bulb replacement (covered under warranty) and the engine fan recall.

    Happy cruising, you all S80-ers!
  • yinghyingh Member Posts: 6
    Has anyone had any experience with car seats on S80?
    I am ordering a anchor hook through my dealer and is wondering which position to install it? The center headrest cannot be removed to accommodate the car seat, so I am thinking maybe one of the window rear seats.
    Please do let me know if you had worked with car seats on S80 before. Thanks!
  • firstvolvo1firstvolvo1 Member Posts: 1
    Help!! I have a 2000 S-80 and have had nothing but Problems with the front end. Dealer did the front bushing "recall", replaced both left and right sway bar bushings, and replaced the steering rack (they slit this cost with me as car is out of warranty-my share was $600). The car still has clunks and bumps in the front end. What can we do? Are their legal channels we can use? Has any one heard if there is a class action suite in the works? I am at my wits end and would appreciate any help comments or suggestions.
    New problem-buzzing coming from engine area under acceleration.
  • steve1947steve1947 Member Posts: 2
    Recently I called my dealer(Kundert Volvo in Hasbrouck Heights,NJ )to make an appointment for the 30,000 mile service on my 2000 S80. I was quoted a cost of $489.95. When I questioned the price I was told that it included a tuneup. I thought tuneups before 100,000 miles had gone the way of the dodo.Plus there is no tuneup listed in the 30k maintenance schedule.What's up?
  • kiiwiikiiwii Member Posts: 318
    $490 sounds pricy. I just did a 30K service. It costed a little over $400 @ Volvo dealer. Make sure you get a coupon. Many dealers have coupons on their web site. Also, don't forget to ask for a free loaner car.
  • pollard2pollard2 Member Posts: 3
    So far my 2000 S80 T6 with 20K miles has been great. Now I want to tune it up a little bit. Can anyone shed light on cold air intakes, different exhaust, tuning the fuel air mix? Looking for some more horses, but also need to get the torque up as well. Rollie? Any thoughts or references would be great.

    --Spolla
  • kiiwiikiiwii Member Posts: 318
    K&N air filter is probably the easiest and least expensive way to increase performance. My friend tried it and said the increase was noticable.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    Prolly a bit late.. but call Montclair for a quote.

    Talk to Herb Wiley or Pete.

    Bill
  • rms409rms409 Member Posts: 10
    What octane gas is recommended for the S80 2.9? My salesman said 93, but a friend of mine said that since it wasn't turbo or a high performance car like a Camaro or Corvette, I could probably use 89 octane without a problem. He said the 93 might even be hurting my valves.

    So, does anyone know any specifics on this?

    Thanks.
  • billiam70billiam70 Member Posts: 54
    The 2.9 only requires Regular Unleaded, nothing more. The T6 requires the Premium because of the turbo engine. The basic rule of thumb is for any car that is designed to run on regular unleaded, putting in anything higher is just a waste of money. My previous S80 2.9, that my aunt now owns, has only ever received regular unleaded, even to this day with 40,000 miles.
  • t6tolert6toler Member Posts: 19
    Every engine that Volvo produces for North America is designed and REQUIRED to use a minimum octane of 87. Using this octane will not harm any Volvo engine whether turbocharged or normally aspirated. For OPTIMUM performance 91 or higher can be used. Optimum means smoother running and idling, more responsiveness, and slightly higher available horsepower. All these engines have knock sensors that detect if there are detonation problems and then the computer can direct the valve timing to progress or retard to compensate. A higher octane fuel will then decrease the chance of knock and allow the engine to operate to its intended efficiency without having to compensate for spark knock. I have a T6 and I use Chevron 92 octane. Using the 87 would be fine but I don't mind spending a bit more (even in California) for the mostly "perceived" performance increase.
  • paltingpalting Member Posts: 26
    "Using this octane will not harm any Volvo engine whether turbocharged or normally aspirated"

    I disagree. Every engine is designed to work under optimun conditions. It can compensate for less than optimum conditions, but that would result in compromises. Not only compromise in performance, but probably compromise in reliability and longevity. I have a T6. I do not believe that running this engine with a retarded ignition timing over the long haul when it was specifically designed to work at a specific ignition timing with 92 octane will not do it damage.
  • t6tolert6toler Member Posts: 19
    But who ever drives under "optimum" conditions? Light engine knocking (which I have never had a problem with in any of my Volvos) is not harmful in the long run according to most manufacturers. I can specifically think of Chevrolet and Ford who say that as long as the knocking goes away with increased engine load that there is no danger.
    Volvo turbo engines for North America are not "required" in any way to use an octane higher than 87. I should think your owner's manual can be the last word on that. If you own a turbo, or normally aspirated for that matter, and consistently run it with 87 octane and don't experience knock, ping or starting problems there is no definitive reason to spend more money on a higher octane unless you feel it might provide better performance. An octane number indicates the fuel's resistance to premature detonation. A higher value, a higher resistance. In a cylinder the fuel and air are injected as the piston moves down. Then as the piston returns to the top of the chamber the valves close and the fuel/air is compressed. When the piston reaches the top a spark is generated and the mixture violently ignites and forces the piston down, creating power. If the engine is a high compression engine and is run on low octane fuel the fuel ignites due to the high compression and heat before the piston gets to the top and the plug fires, that is knocking, pinging, and that sort of stuff. Volvos turbo engines are not high compression. The non-turbos are a higher compression but are engineered, by way of knock sensors, to be perfectly fine when used with 87 octane. Testing has shown that a car recommended to use 87 that is run on 92 will have barely any HP or driveability change for the better and can actually decrease in performance. Whereas an engine "required" by the owner's manual to use 92 will decrease in performance, albeit a small amount, when run on 87.
  • landlockedlandlocked Member Posts: 14
    When I purchased my T6, I asked my sales person specifically about what grade gas to run in the car. She said that regular unleaded is perfectly fine, and that the higher octane gases mostly just cost more. I use regular unleaded exclusively and have not experienced anything wrong with the car whatsoever. Always starts fine, never pings or knocks, and I am consistently able to get ahead of traffic when I want to.

    Spend your money on other things.
  • paltingpalting Member Posts: 26
    I haven't been to this thread for a while, but these are the most uninformed posts I've read so far.

    The Volvo S80 T6 REQUIRES an octane rating 0f 91 RON. To anybody who says otherwise, my advice, RTFM!! And as far as I know, in the US or anywhere else in the world, 91 octane is NOT regular fuel. Go ahead. Use regular octane despite what is recommended. I for one would like to know the litany of problems you can develop. At least, it will happen to you, not me.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    The T-6 requires premium fuel like most any Turbocharged car.

    At the very best, you'll get reduced performance. At the worst, serious engine damage.

    And, if they can prove that it was caused by using improper fuel, damage that the warranty might not cover. You got some dangerous advice I am afraid.

    But then, it isnt MY car. My T6 gets premium.

    In some countries (Generally in Europe) octane ratings are far higher. But, heck, look what they pay for fuel! (over $1.00 a LITRE!)

    Bill
  • execuguyexecuguy Member Posts: 2
    I have just had 2 experiences in which my S-80 would not shift. On start-up in the am. It would not shift out of Park. 5 minutes later after I had read an re-read the relevant parts of the manual. It shifted as if there had never been a problem.

    1 week later at my garage at work , it would not shift out of the forward gears or reverse. Volvo service acame and we managed to push it so we could drive it out of the garage. Then after a 20 minute cruise home (forward was no problem) , it shifted to P easily.

    I think I hate this car.
  • rms409rms409 Member Posts: 10
    execuguy,

    This problem was mentioned in some previous posts -- go to Posts #954 & #956. I think these may help you possibly shed some light on your frustrating experience. I think once you understand the workings of the Volvo, you will not hate the car, but come to really appreciate the beauty of it. Don't give up. The people on this board are very knowledgeable about this vehicle and can assist you greatly with questions and problems that might come up.

    Hang in there!
  • rms409rms409 Member Posts: 10
    I had posted a little while back regarding the octane level to use in the S-80 2.9. Well, thanks for everyone's input on it. I finally checked the manual [which, incidentally someone else who had posted had recommended and done as well]. The manual recommends an octane of 91 or higher for Volvos in general. So, I guess I better "play by the book," although it would've been nice to save some $$ and use a lower octane.

    Better to be safe than sorry.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    In a NON TURBO S80 you can use Mid-Grade and be fine...

    Bill
  • scottc3scottc3 Member Posts: 137
    Hi All,

    Been months since I've been here. I see octane discussions, I use the highest I can get. I change the old every 5K miles, and use Mobile 1, synthetic. My car is turning 45K miles now, and no real issues. 2 recalls, done under warranty. I've had to pull the radio out twice for a stuck CD, and other than this, it's running very well. I have replaced the plugs at 30K miles, used Autolite.. no issues. Had the transmission fluid changed at the factory, and replaced the front break pads at about 30K miles (but dealer said I did not have to do once they looked at - but it was there, up on the rack, so why not). I have no real complaints, but I'm not sure I'd buy another one - just personal opinion, no hard reason. I really like the handling of our BMW 535, and it's got 125K on it, and running great. I do like the S80 on long trips.. it's really great, but corning leaves a bit to be desired for me.

    I won't sell the car, as it seems to be a good one, but may - at some point - give to my wife, and I'll get something else.

    Good luck to all.

    Scott
  • bhuckbhuck Member Posts: 1
    If that happens again with your shifter,
    pop off the fuse cover on the driver side of
    the dash. Pull fuse #21, replace fuse 21,
    start car, and drive away.
  • pbinkley1pbinkley1 Member Posts: 3
    I normally drive my S80 2.9 pretty mellow but every now and then when I hammer it at a green light or an on-ramp. During hard accelerations, it feels like the tranny is slipping in between 1st and 2nd, and 2nd & 3rd. I get a pretty significant vibration coming from the tranny, not to mention the loss of power as the guy in the Civic EX blows by me. The car has 30k on it and is in the shop now for the third time being looked at. I was told that it might be due to the "adaptive transmission" getting into a mellow driver "mode", and then when I hammer it, it tries to handle the shift lightly, but there is too much power going to the tranny. The funny thing is, when I step on it at every opportunity, the car eventually starts shifting smoothly again. So I hope they can fix it otherwise I'm going to get some speeding tickets to keep it shifting properly. Has anyone else experienced this and had it fixed successfully?
  • paltingpalting Member Posts: 26
    I have the dreaded '99 edition of the S80 T6. Fortunately, I have not had any of the "dreaded" traits. It has always been sweet since brand new.

    The adaptive mechanism is slow to respond. It does take several shifts and several stop and go before it adapts to aggressive driving. Funny, it seems to adapt quicker to mellow driving. I have found that for the occasional sprints of hard driving that I subject the car to when I drive it, it is simpler to use the manual shifting capabilities of the auto trans. Shifts are quick and solid near the red line. The Volvo is a wolf in sheeps clothing. Despite front wheel drive and auto, the acceleration is awesome. My T6 has beaten a BMW 530i in a straight drag race!!!

    Anyway, back to the topic. I have found that after several runs up and down aggressively in manual mode, the car is now adapted to aggressive when I resume full auto. I believe the T6 and 2.9 share the same auto tranny, so they should behave simillarly. So, next time that Civic EX comes up, go manual and leave him staring at your VOLVO logo, heh-heh-heh.
  • pheephee Member Posts: 2
    I always use premium in my S80 2.9 even though the dealer said regular was OK. I was told the same when I bought a 960 in '92, which had a similar engine. However, in '97, I burned some valves which cost over $2500 to repair. It appears the detonation sensor was so good in the 960 that it never pinged. The same dealer said that the S80 also would run on regular, but this time I'll follow what both cars' manuals say, i.e. at least 91 octane.
    By the way, does anyone else have problems with their car surging at idle?
  • delmangdelmang Member Posts: 1
    Had the surging at idle problem on my 2000 S-80 2.9 with 73K miles. Dealer cleaned throttle module ($100) and no more problems.
  • n1tyhn1tyh Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I'm looking at purchasing a 2000 Volvo S80, 2.9 (fully loaded with leather interior) that is off-lease with 85,000 miles. I know, rather high. Selling price is $17K. He came off his selling price (obviously not by much). This is a used car lot in town (good reputation) who only specializes in off-lease cars with higher mileage.

    Other car I'm looking at is an Audi A6 with 53,000 for $18,500.

    Any comments regarding the Volvo S80's performance as it approaches 100,000 miles would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks,
    Steve O.
  • kkatkkat Member Posts: 6
    2000 S80 2.9 34,000 miles:
    At idle, the engine speed sometimes swings wildly -- down to 600 rpm then up to over 1000 rpm and then down again. It's very noticable to everyone in the car. I have earlier noticed some light cycling (maybe a 100 rpm move) that I think is associated with the air conditioner, but this is much more severe. Has anyone else experienced this? of course, it is intermittent, and won't perform for the dealer.
  • rms409rms409 Member Posts: 10
    I just got my 2002 S80 2.9 this past Spring, so I don't know how it performs on the road under snowy/icy conditions. It doesn't have all-wheel drive, but rear wheel drive. All my other cars in the past have had front wheel drive. What can I expect from the Volvo under these driving conditions. Safe to drive?

    I'd appreciate any input from those who have driven their Volvo under such conditions.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    Your 2002 S80 is front wheel drive. How did you get the impression it was rear wheel drive?
    I found it not quite as good in snow as other front wheel drive vehicles with narrower tires.
  • kiiwiikiiwii Member Posts: 318
    Does S80 have "S" (sport) mode switch? My good old 960 has that. The car shifts a bit more aggressively if you turn it on.
  • pheephee Member Posts: 2
    Message 982 above says that the dealer's cleaning of the throttle module corrected the problem. I plan to try that remedy myself. As you noted, it seems to occur only when the A/C is running and when both the ambient temperature is high and engine has gotten to operating temperature. I had it to the dealer twice for this problem, the last time citing the technical service bulletins dealing with this problem elsewhere on this site. Neither visit cured the problem, but it does seem to go away in the fall.
  • paltingpalting Member Posts: 26
    "Does S80 have "S" (sport) mode switch? My good old 960 has that. The car shifts a bit more aggressively if you turn it on."

    The S80 does have a switch, but it is a "W" switch. It is for bad road conditions such as ice, where the tranny starts in 2nd gear and modulates the power more to prevent wheel spin. As to aggressive vs Mz. Daisy mode, the tranny supposedly adapts automatically.
  • dongsterdongster Member Posts: 4
    I have 1999 S80 2.9 w/ 54000 miles on it.
    I hear click and clunk noise on my suspension when I go over the bump.
    The probloem is that I don't hear anything after about 30 minutes of driveing or I have somebody on the passenger seat. It might be ball joint or just loosen nuts and bolts. What do you guys think? I don't want to take my car to the money hungry dealer and pay for the new ball joint but it is actually tightening the bolts and nuts...
  • hsnovicehsnovice Member Posts: 1
    I paid $173.00 for a 10,000 mile inspection at my dealer. I never had a foreign car before so I do not know what to expect although I think this is ridiculously high. Wondering what is normal and if an oil, filter change will suffice at 15,000? Thanks for your input.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    You can reduce your expenses immensely if you study the scheduled maintenance recommendations and requirements charts in your warranty manual, and perform the "easy stuff" yourself (or have it done at an independent service facility).
    At the first scheduled service (7500 miles), I checked all of the fluid levels, lubricated various contacting surfaces, and added distilled water to the battery. I had my dealer change the oil only, to ensure I had evdence of compliance with minimum warranty requirements. Total cost: $40.

    At 15,000 miles, I also changed the pollen (cabin) filter, intake air filter, and front brake pads. Another $40 charge at the dealer.

    When I reach 30,000 miles, it will be more expensive, because the brake fluid must be changed to keep the warranty in force. With my last Volvo, I paid $50 for that procedure in addition to the oil change.
  • rms409rms409 Member Posts: 10
    Somehow I got the impression from the salesman at the dealership that the car was rear wheel drive. I even questioned if he meant front wheel drive, and he said it was rear wheel drive. I could be mistaken, but somehow that point stuck with me about the car. I went with the car inspite of that, figuring it's one of the best and safest ones on the road.

    I am enjoying the car immensely!
  • fasrfasr Member Posts: 6
    i own a 1997 jeep grand cherokee limited with 77,000 miles. i've spent $3,500 maintaining it so far in 2002 with one problem after another. i have reached my capitulation point with this vehicle. i am looking at getting a 2000 volvo S80 T-6. i am also considering a cadillac seville STS and a lexus GS 300. but i really like what i've read about the volvo. the most important features my next car should have are reliability, longevity, and quickness. my jeep has failed to deliver these qualities. i would really appreciate any advice on considering purchasing the S80, or the lexus and cadillac. what are the pros and cons? thanks a lot.
  • doctordickdoctordick Member Posts: 36
    Yesterday I had a bit of a start. Suddenly, the "Service Urgent" message appeared with the amber "!" also lit. Got into the Volvo dealer this morning and they found a malfunctioning throttle electronic control. They replaced it and downloaded a software update on my car ("99 S80) at no cost, due to extended warranty on emission system (to 70K or 7 years--I'm at 56K).

    I've never seen mention of a "Service Urgent" message here before, so I thought you all might be interested. The service manager never had seen it either.

    Still love the vehicle. rld.
  • gerry14gerry14 Member Posts: 12
    Does anyone know what is meant by message: "Bulb failure position light" (may not be exact). This has come on a couple of times--the first time when I had lost a headlamp. When the lamp was replaced, the message was gone. But it has come back a couple of times. I never see anything wrong with any lights, and after a day the message goes away. Any ideas?
    Gerry
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    "Position light" is Volvo-speak for what we call "parking" lights in the USA. These are all of the exterior lamps that turn on in the center position of the headlight switch (even with the ignition off). The current through some of the bulbs is continuously monitored. The most likely cause of the message is either an intermittent connection in a tail lamp socket, or a tail lamp that is dim or about to fail. At night turn your headlight switch to the center position, and look carefully at the 2 side-by-side tail lamps on each side. If one is slight dimmer than the other (or out), replace it and clean the socket contacts. It all look OK, just clean the contacts.
  • lakepersonlakeperson Member Posts: 6
    The stated contractual price for my 2000 S80 at end of lease is $24000, rather high, I think, even though it has a navigation system (2.9 model I read earlier on this board that one owner reported volvo finance lowering the stated price on his contract. Does this happen often? Can one negotiate with volvo finance for a lower purchase price?
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    Absolutely. When the lease was about to expire on my last Volvo, I received an unsolicited phone call from VCNA who offered to sell me the car at $1500 less than the residual. It was a 1998 S70 and the residual was $18,200 in 2001. I could have probably purchased it for $16,000.

    I decided to lease a new one instead.
  • squadronleadersquadronleader Member Posts: 11
    We bought an S80 without the navigation system. Does anyone know if it can be retrofitted by the dealer, and if so, what it might cost?

    Also, does anyone have a non-Volvo navigation system they use?

    Thanks for the help!
  • chodginschodgins Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 S80 T6 with 27K miles. Less than a month ago, it got its fourth transmission. #2 lasted seven months, #3 lasted seven months, and I have no reason to believe #4 will last more than seven months. Needless to say, I'm convinced the car is a lemon. I've started a dialog with the regional Volvo guy to trade it in and get another. Any comments or suggestions?
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