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The 91 I found is at a dealer. It's a metallic white color with tan leather interior. It has a few nicks on it that the dealer will repair. Otherwise, the exterior is clean. It's an eye catcher. It certainly caught my eye driving by. Anyway, the interior is very clean. There is a flaw or two in the top of the leather seat in the rear, and something semi-corrosive was spilled in the arm-rest storage compartment. Other than that, it's clean.
I sense a minor adjustment may be needed in the drivers side door, as it gave me a little difficulty opening it a few times. The door seal is worn as well.
The Bose stereo definitely has a problem. I used th fader and balance to check all the speakers. The rear drivers side definitely has a problem, and perhaps the drivers door speaker as well.
Inside the trunk, the fiber wall on the back appeared to have been removed for some reason, and was not replaced correctly. I'm not sure why. Perhaps someone was trying to fix the stereo? I read here that others have had the same problem with the Bose stereo.
The rear passenger door has flecks of cream paint overspray on it, I assume from a repair done to the door panel, though I can't find it.
It has Bridgestones on it, in good shape, but road and wind noise are noticeable.
The engine compartment is spotless.
When leaving a stoplight, I can feel a slight chatter as the rpm's go from 600-1000. I'm worried about a tranny problem. Could this just be something like exhaust? I've never heard an automatic chatter.
Overall, it's a very clean car that needs a little bit of attention. I'm tired of looking at buying other people's problems. Too many junkers in dark colors on the market (I live in a hot sunny climate). I need white or pastel colors. My current Honda is black, so I know why people sell them in the winter.
The dealer claims retial to be $13,900. The Kelley Retail value is $13,360. Edmunds lists the car at $10,282 clean, $11,230 in excellent condition, which would have to include the paint fixes, the stereo fix, the door and seal fix, and a checkout of the potential tranny issue. (Why such a difference between Edmunds and KBB? I find this to be fairly common between the two.) Still, that's $2670 lower than their ask price. The salesman is nice, seems honest and direct, and we talked about $12,000, though not seriously. The private party price on the car would be more like $9,000, though this would be a very desirable car at that price. It wouldn't last long.
Does anyone have any input on the potential tranny issue or stereo issue, and what the repair costs could be? I like the car, but it is 10 years old. What's a fair price?
I take off slowly from a stop light, and somewhere between 600-1000 RPM's, I get a vibration that sounds like clutch chatter from a standard transmission, which this is not, but that's what it sounds/feels like. Was that your experience?
http://www.boserepair.com/
From experience (and research) I know of following COMMON problems w/ Legends:
1) Cracked radiator top
2) Transmission mount
3) Door lock actuator (had to replace mine)
4) ABS/TCS speed sensor(s) (bad on mine, don't feel like replacing it)
5) Master window/door switch (replaced mine - $380 ouch!)
Regarding maintenance - the timeing belt/water pupm is a biggie here. Recommended at 90K -> dealers usually quote between $700-$900, although I had mine done for $450 (bought my own parts, and had my mechanic change them).
exceptionally well. The exterior and interior are very good as well. The car has about 90000 miles on it. I know the Legend has a very good reputation, but should I worry about the mileage?
If it's an AT you're talking about you should get that checked out. I experienced similar chatter in 3rd/4th (sort of like driving over a washboard) but I ignored it thinking it was just rough road. A year later my tranny needs to be rebuilt, and the service tech asked if I ever experienced that washboard-like chatter sensation. He said that's the first indication of a possible tranny wearing out - something about the torque converter not staying locked?
You should investigate maybe having the AT fluid power flushed to get rid of the old fluid in the converter. Regular drain and fill AT servicing doesn't empty the converter - but be warned - the Acura tech doesn't recommend due to "sensitive" internal valving in the AT unit. Maybe they were just saying that to get me to bite for the $2500 rebuilt unit. I ended up selling the car instead.
Thanks again for the assistance! You guys(?) are the best!
PS. Check the rear engine mount (transmission) before purchase and radiator (cracks in plastic)
(which really is ground zero for Legends).
As far as the car you found, the vibration could be anything from an engine mount to a loose heat shield. They should also have no problem fixing the dents for you.
1993 with only 21,790 miles on it!!It is from a family member so i know the service history.
I am concerned that although it has low mileage,it still is a 8 year old car that is not under warranty.
Should i keep this car? Or should i sell it ?
I am currently driving a 1996 Volvo 850 with 65,000 miles on it.
I do not know alot about acuras, i would really appreciate alot of info about this car to help me make a intelligent decision.
If you really want to get more info about the car, take sfearing's advice and visit forums.legend.org.
It's got to be one of the better, more civilized forums out there in the cyber space...
I test drove a 92 with 124K miles several months ago, and I liked the way it drove. It felt like a very refined Accord. Right now, I drive a 96 Camry XLE V-6 with 47K miles. Edmunds put the value of the 47K Camry the same as the 96K mile Legend.
The problem is what I've posted about before. At low speeds, especially when turning right at low speeds, I hear what I describe as a rumble. At first I thought it was coming from the tires, brakes, or right (psgr) side front, but now I think it may actually be in the steering somehow. No vibration in the steering wheel, though. Front end was checked no less than three times - cv joints are supposedly okay, brakes are new x two months. After reading earlier posts, dealer checked out the heat shield for a different rattle, but rattle not fixed. I'm leaving that one alone until or unless it gets worse, but I'm worried about this rumble sound. And it wasn't the transmission mount that they replaced either--that was causing that dragging feeling when backing out and a big clunk when going over a driveway bump or speed bump, and that was fixed after they replaced that part. Any ideas on whether this is a steering problem or what?
Also, had brakes done because I was hearing a kind of a throbbing noise (woom-woom-woom) while going down the highway - it's beter, but not gone on the passenger front. They replaced the pads and turned the rotors. Any ideas on what the noise I'm still hearing is? Could they have messed that job up too (lots of problems with bad work on timing belt replacement)?
One more mechanical thing - I now have to find someone new to work on this baby. Should I go to the dealer in this area, or should I use a Honda mechanic the people I work with have recommended?
By the way, an earlier post asked about finding a GS coupe 6-speed. Around the time I bought mine (1998) I know there was another one similar in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Mine is pearl white. And yes, these cars were a limited edition. I got lucky. Good luck finding yours.
if it has automatic climate control, it's most likely LS or GS... If the engine has written "Type II" on it - the car is a GS.
Also, I believe the body molding on L is black, wheras LS and GS have body matching color...
W/ the car having 94K miles, you should find out if the 90K service was performed (mainly timing belt/water pump). If done at the dealership, these two will set you back ~$700/800 (I had mine done by local mechanic - ~$450 using Acura OEM parts).
Yes, there are no 6 speed GS coupes, but ... there are 6 speed GS SEDANS...
Btw, can I be your friend ??? I would love to get my hands on 6 speed... I only have '91 I auto
Regarding mechanic - if you can find someone cheaper than the dealer (yet qualified) I would definitely do it. If needed, you can easily pick up OEM parts on-line (from www.ahmotor.com or www.asian-auto-parts.com). I am fortunate to know someone who is really good and CHEAP (working out of his garage)...
What are OEM parts? Are they substantially cheaper than just letting the mechanic get the parts and then do the work all at once?
How is your 91 holding up? Did you have any ideas on the problems I described? Any info is appreciated!
Regarding OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)parts - these are REAL, Honda-made parts, which are usually better quality than aftermarket stuff (like you buy at Pepboys, Autozone, etc...).
As far as my '91 goes - it's almost been perfect (4 years/70K miles of ownership).
The car now has 114K, and the only problems I've had w/ it are as follows:
1) CV boot (replaced under extended warranty)
2) Door lock actuator (warranty)
3) Master window/door switch ($~280 - that one hurt:))
4) Left Rear wheel speed sensor - ABS doesn't work (the part is ~$120, and requires about 1hr of work w/ right tools). I haven't changed it yet, don't care for ABS...
That's about it! Not too shabby for a 10 year old car...
As far as your problem goes, I don't know ... but, as I mentioned in one of my earlier posts - check out forums.legend.org Unlike this board, there is lots of activity there - ~2000 registered members (50K posts), many of whom are quite knowledgable (several Acura mechanics...)
For others who may read this, I, too, had the door actuator problem, but so far no speaker problem. I also had the antenna mast (under warranty, thank goodness) plus some others, but overall, it's a car worth putting money into.
As goral mentioned, there is a body molding that's body color on the LS but it's not the door edge guard, it's the very bottom of the front clip, the very bottom of the rocker panel and the very bottom of the rear bumber cover. In addition, the LS has traction control, climate control, a power passenger seat and 16" wheels. The Coupe L did not have these items.
I had a '94 Coupe L. One of the coolest things about that car was how the rear windows go down. When is the last time you saw that in a coupe?
If the amp has built in line level convertors, then you can use the signal out and go
directly into the amp.
If not, then you need to use line level convertor ($10), where you would need 2,
one for the rear and one for the front.
I have the premium deck runinng a HiFonics 4 channel amp and RF amp running a
single 12" sub.
Soon I will be buying a Legend and I have a few questions I was hoping some of you could answer.
First of all I am planning on buying a 1993-1995 Black on Black Coupe and I wanted to know which year the 230hp engine came into the picture? If, for example, the 1993 Coupes had that engine, did only some in that year have the 230hp and others with the 200hp? How about with 1994 or 1995?
Also which year did they start having the 3rd Brake light as part of the Trunk, was it 1994 or just in 1995? And do you know of any mechanical or structural problems that were in the 1993 Model that was fixed in the 1994 and 1995 models?
Thanks in advance for your help!!
All Coupes 93-95, Sedans 94-95 only GS trim
Don't know about the 3rd brake light.
The differences are mainly cosmetic between the 93 and the 94-95 coupes (front bumper). I think the 94-95 LS coupes are the only ones with traction control.
This car has had a couple of repairs, 2 radiators, power windows replaced, boots etc. But the biggest problem I cannot get fixed is the Bose unit. When cold the left side has static. After it warms up it is o.k. Has anyone had this and remedied it?
Other than this it has been a great car.
My only problem is what do I replace it with in 3 years. I hope the new RL is more like a Legend so I can buy a used one.
http://www.boserepair.com/
Why would a timing belt and water pump cost $800 to replace? This is not one of those engines that the water pump is driven by timing belt, and the thought is " while you are at it to replace the belt, might as well replace the water pump."
Another thing about Legends; How can I tell 93, 94, or 95 models apart?
I read somewhere that the timing belt/water pump is a 6 hour job (going "by the book").
I'm thinking of buying a 1992 Aura Legend I Coupe 2-door, only one owner. Car looks very fine but has the odd problem where the engine "hiccups" or "misses" sometime after starting out in the morning or when coming home at night. This car is in San Francisco Bay Area, so we are not looking at weather extremes. Problem comes and goes. Owner has had car into dealer many times trying to figure out the problem, and final advice has been to ignore the problem! According to owner, if the problem is going to occur, it occurs at the same place in the commute each day, which would make you think it has something to do with the engine warming to a given temperature... I don't know for sure.
Has anyone in this Aura community heard of a problem like this.
Appreciate any info or pointers people might have.
Patrick.
Also, you might want to check out the price of Auto insurance before you purchase a 95 Legend. I priced a 95 Legend Coupe 2dr LS with my insurance company (Farmers) and it was $615 every 6 months, she told me it had a rating of "8", which I guess is pretty high in the Auto insurance world. I compared the 95 to a 91 Legend Coupe which was $370 every 6 months. Hope you find the one your looking for!!:)
I own a used 93 Legend coupe and has 62K on it... I bought it 3 yrs ago with 33K on it... Can anyone tell me when do I need to replace the timing belt and the water pump ??
thanks for all the info and I learned a lot reading th posts....