Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

top3gun · April 2005

Turns out that 2000 caravans dont have distributor caps and rotors. I checked out the fuel filter and it was in a location that a beginner like me would not be able to replace it. The worker at autozone said that the pcv valve wouldn't need to be replaced, so cross that out also.

I decided to only do the plugs and not the wires because they seem to be in great shape. I changed the plugs. They were in awkward locations, but after playing "Tetris" with the limited tools I had, I got them all out and replaced them.

But the check engine light is still on. Earlier, AutoZone ran a test and it pointed out a "cylinder misfire" which resulted from the plugs. I guess I'll take it back to Autozone to have them run the diagnostic again.

Feel free to reply with some tips or whatnot you think would be beneficial for me. Thanks!

dustyk · April 2005

Yes, we are talking about the same thing. As you described very well, the rotor will become harder in one localized spot. The end-effect is a pulsating that is interpreted by the driver as a warped rotor.

In most cases, not all, I think you'll find that where ever the rotor comes from the casting is OEM. The reason is cost. It's cheaper for the aftermarket manufacturer to buy blanks from the OEM and then finish the rotor as opposed to designing a new casting and molding. If you go to the Brembo site they tell you that they "...start with a factory blank."

Yes, the OEMs will cast identifiers for aftermarket outlets. I would bet this is what NAPA does.

Nice pictures, by the way.

Good luck,
Dusty

vcheng · April 2005

shipo · April 2005

Hmmm, starting with a factory blank... Interesting, I wonder why NAPA has two different rotors for the 1998 Caravan, one being nearly twice the price of the other. Could this be one of the few cases where a manufacturer decided that given the number of vehicles on the road that it might be cost effective to in fact create their own tooling and cast their own?

Best Regards,
Shipo

shipo · April 2005

Thanks guys! ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

fishing1000 · April 2005

Any thing I need to pay attention to so that I dont mess things up when removing the plugs? How long did it take you to replace the plugs?

You may want to check that the electrical wires from the cylinder to the computer that the computer has identified that misfires are in good order. My daughter's escort had a problem with the fuel pressure sensor and everyone told me to replace the sensor. I was not sure because the car was running fine. I did all kinds of tests only later to find out that the problem was a wire that feeds the computer with the pressure signal being cut.

Another thing. Have you checked out the plug wires. Granted that they looked good. But that could be deceiving. A bad wire can be located by turning the engine on at night. If you see some arc along a wire, he wire is bad.

top3gun · April 2005

It took me, a true beginner, approx. an hour to change the plugs. just be sure to put the same wire back to the same place it was.

i checked the wires out at night and saw nothing that would lead me to suspect that the wires are bad. the van is driving much better now.

bosse · April 2005

Hi
Im living in Sweden and Im an owner of a Chrysler Grand Voyager LES, 2000 (3,3 litre v6, automatic) on its 110 kmiles. Im having problem with vibration in the speed range of 45-55 miles per hour. The vibration is rather heavy, in a low frequent (approximately 5 Hz) and appears only when accelerating. My conclusion is that it comes somewhere from the transmission. Is there anybody out there that has a clue what is causing this vibration? If so please tell me what this might be and the approximate cost would be to repair it.
Regards

vcheng · April 2005

1. Torque converter shudder: (check fluid levels in the transmission, right type of fluid, worn clutch packs)
2. Worn CV joints. (check boots, grease, free play)
3. Worn ball joints and/or tie-rod ends. (thorough front end inspection)

cumilyeon · April 2005

We recently bought a 92 grand voyager. It now has been going through belts very frequently. I have replaced the power steering pump and the tensioner pully. Yet the problem still presists.

Any help would be apreciated.

Cumilyeon

cumilyeon · April 2005

I had a similar problem with a different car. I had to replace the ignition module

Cumilyeon

badgerfan · April 2005

Sounds like you must have some sort of pulley alignment problem, which may have occured during the pump or tensioner pulley changeouts. I would try to find a good trustworthy mechanic to check this out.

4101 · April 2005

i have a 96 grand voyger and the front end shakes really badly when doing speeds of 40-45miles per hr. at higher speeds the viabaration is still there but not as noticeable. have any suggestions

vred · April 2005

Asking this for my Brother in law...94 Caravan, 3.0 L engine, 120,000K miles.
intermittent torque converter lock up at idle in gear..causes lurch forward and stall, shop is unable to duplicate problem, seems to happen when cold outside and first started, no codes were found during scan {van has an overdrive lockout button on dash]
Thanks, Ed in Toronto

vcheng · April 2005

Check the tensioner pulley very carefully. I had the belt come off once in six years of ownership, and it was caused by an aftermarket tensioner that was just a tad off alignment. A new OEM part from Dodge cured it.

I compared the OEM and aftermarket tensioners carefully. All the dimensions are spot on correct when you are holding both outside the car. However there is one big difference: The OEM part has the tensioner spring lie flat against the bracket, while on the aftermarket part, the spring is enclosed, and only the stud keeps the tensoner flat once you put on the belt. That, I think, is the reason, the aluminum casing warps just a little, causing the misalignment.

There is a new OEM part where the roller pulley is made of plastic. I am not too keen on this change, but that is one I have on my vehicle now, and so far, so good.

8bobcat8 · April 2005

I have a 2002 T&C AWD with 60K miles. It has been a great vehicle except for the clunky 2-1 coasting downshift and the classic engine lifter valley corner oil leak. I documented the oil leak but refused a warrantee repair because I didn't want the repair possibly screwed up etc. It really doesn't use oil.

Anyway, a question for the forum experts please. In reading this transmission forum, it is somewhat apparent that a DIY transmission oil change might not be prudent. I have the repair manual and it really doesnt mention this loss of prime and control unit reset issue.

Since I do as much of my own service as possible I had thought this oil change would be a piece of cake. What exactly are these issues and what specifically will this loss of prime do if you just drive it carefully (?) and let the transmission adapt? Also, is the DC reset routine built entirely into the tool or do they also get new flash via their intranet hook-up. Does anyone sell a reset tool?

Waiting to get down and dirty with transmission oil,
BobCat

philip84 · April 2005

Dusty,

Thanks very much for your reply. I happended to have changed the fuel cap on my 2001 Town & Country minivan, had the light reset, but I continue to get the light after a few days. Any other ideas?

philip84 · April 2005

I actually changed the gas cap and still get the same light with the same EVAP code. Any ideas out there?

Thanks.

soc2661 · April 2005

I have a 2002 Dodge Caravan that has been sitting up for several months. It has been started from time to time, but not use regularly for 9 months. I had to charge a dead battery to use it today and when I connected the charger the flashers started going and did not stop. The swith inside is off, the falsher in the fuse box has a ground for something running to it. (Looks after market) Could it have something to do with the keyless entery? That isn't working either but I think it needs a new battery. Haven't done much research yet, but open to any suggestions.

soc2661

ebrown · April 2005

Have 101k miles on our 1998 Grand Voyager with 3.3L engine & auto trans.
Car runs and drives great and has caused no probs until 2 weeks ago. Then,
the front wipers came on at random times all by themselves, with the switch in
the OFF position! Had the local Dodge garage look it over and they replaced
the switch. No help there. Then they replaced the wiper motor and it took 2
weeks to get the new motor. Motor was noisy and did not solve IWP. Replaced
motor again but somehow it did not take 2 weeks to get 2nd wiper motor. 2nd
motor is quiet but did not solve IWP. Finally, we got it to act up when the
mechanics could hook a diagnostic computer to it... bingo... bad computer.
Why the wipers have to be controlled by a $500 computer instead of a
separate $3 circuit totally escapes me but that is what we have. Will replace
this week with a new factory computer. Hope that this FINALLY cures this
issue. Other than this, the van has been a real gem. Personally, I think that
this is a sign of over-engineering and making the system more complicated
than it really needs to be and more than it should be for best reliability. Perhaps
with a new computer on board, we can go another 100k with it. Yeah, I know...
dream on... :-)

Ed

jipster · April 2005

Why didn't the mechanics hook the diagnostic computer to it in the first place?
Wouldn't it still have shown bad computer?

amiramon26 · April 2005

I was just wondering if anyone ever had a problem with a 97 GC where the vehicle starts and idles perfectly but when you go to put it in drive and give it gas the vehicle misfires and eventually stalls. I have changed the oxygen sensor (before CC), plugs, cap rotor, fuel/air filters, throttle position sensor and still have the problem. The OBD II reads random cylinder misfires but I cannot figure out what the problem is.

soc2661 · April 2005

Well I figured it out! It was just the battery in the remote. I guess I should have chnged it before posting here.

shipo · April 2005

"Well I figured it out! It was just the battery in the remote. I guess I should have chnged it before posting here."

Battries in the remote? Yikes, I literally just bought (like 20 minutes ago) new batteries to replace the originals for both of the remotes for our 1998, just before reading this post. I wonder how your's could be so warn out in such a short period of time.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jingle1 · April 2005

My 1999 Dodge Caravan just starting having a fuel gauge malfunction. After filling the tank the fuel gauge was all over the place and then the chime and low fuel indicator light comes on every 10 seconds. Having it looked into.

jojo40 · April 2005

I Have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan it is doing the same thing shaking between the speed of 40 and 45mph. However it just started after dodge but another engine in it. the speedometer stop working also and i could not prove to them that it was there fault, and that it was working before they replaced the engine. I took the van to my mechanic he can't figure out what is wrong. He has the same year van I do, and his van is doing the same thing. So if anyone out there has the answer please, please give it up so my kids and I can stop shaking.

thank you,
JoJo40

joon · April 2005

I have a 97' Caravan and the windshield wipers comes on without the switch being turned on. It works once or twice and then it stops. This happens probably once a week or so. This has been going on for as long as I have owned this car (bought it new). Also, although less frequently (once every couple of months or so) my cruise control comes on without the switch being turned on. Have anybody experienced something similar to this? Does anybody know how to fix this? I took my minivan to dealer when it was still under warranty, and since this was an interminent problem, they could not find anything wrong with it.

gmann2005 · April 2005

The AC/Heater fan in the cabin will only blow on it's highest setting - the first 3 settings don't work at all. First thing I will do will be to check the fuse - is this reasonable that the highest setting would work but no other setting and is fuse replacement the first option I should check?

sroth · April 2005

I recently took my 92 Grand Voyager in for a routine oil change and once over. The shop told me it needed a new CV boot. They replaced the drivers side. One week later I had the axle break on that side. The shop says it was caused by faulty motor mounts (something they said can not be diagnosed easily) and that there is no correlation to the work they did. Does this make sense? A different shop told me it was easy to test for "play" in a motor mount and they felt the wear and tear was caused by the jolt to the engine when the axle gave - probably caused by a faulty repair in the first place. Any insight would be GREATLY appreciated. :confuse:

Claires · April 2005

Gmann, You might also want to post your question in the Climate Control Problems: All Cars discussion.

badgerfan · April 2005

This is a very very common problem in that era Caravan. The "ghost wipers" that actuate occasionally on their own lies in the turn signal multifunction switch or in the wiring in the column itself, I cannot remember which it is since it was repaired on our 1996 Caravan under warranty many years ago.

I cannot believe your dealer is unaware of the fix for this, as it has been a very common issue and one they should have encountered and fixed many times by now.

joon · April 2005

Badgerfan,

Thanks for the heads up. I had my minivan serviced at this dealer many times for warranty and out of warranty work and always left very disappointed with their level of customer service. I wouldn't be surprised if they knew about this problem and just "claimed ignorance" perhaps because this was a "low return" type of work for them, specially since it was under warranty, and they already had plenty of cars to service (you gotta service those lemons).

Another problem that has persisted even after several trips to the dealer is the driver's side wind noise. The dealer changed the inside rubber that goes around the door probably three or four times (always under warranty) but the noise never went away. They even sent it to their body shop people to see if the door was bent or something, but to no avail. At the end, they just threw their hands and couldn't figure out what was wrong. That was about the time my warranty expired. When I contacted Dodge's national customer service, they told me that because my warranty had expired, there was nothing else they could do about this.

Needless to say, I'm never buying another Dodge or DC product again. I think DC is coming out with some products that from a design and styling standpoint look appealing, but based on my past experience with my Caravan cannot trust their reliability.

royallen · April 2005

#2642 amiramon, two ignition parts that are possible are plug wires and coil (or some similar part). Wires, however, should cause the same plug to misfire so not likely. Also I had a similar problem with a '96 Intrepid which was an air leak of the intake manifold gasket. Roy

gino45 · April 2005

Gmann,

I had the exact problem with my 2001 Caravan. The fan would work only on the highest setting. The problem was with the fan resistor. The part cost $18Cdn and is located behind the glove compartment. Instructions on how to replace the resistor:
1-Open the glove box and squeeze both left and right sides so that you may get the box side stopper beyond the opening of the dash panel.

2-This will allow the box to open further and allow you access to the resistor.

3-Unplug the electrical connector from the resistor.

4-Unscrew the two screws holding the resistor.

If your new resistor didn't include a new gasket, carefully pull the old gasket from the old resistor and install it on the new resistor.
5-Installation is the reverse of steps 4 to 1.

rubberduck · April 2005

The speedometer quit working on my 91 dodge caravan, when the speedometer doesn't work the day time driving lights and the cruise also don't work. any help would be appreiciated

Thanks

subteach · April 2005

I have a '99 Chrysler T&C that has similar problem. Started one day when car started and then immediately shut down. This happened repeatedly for about 20 minutes then it started and ran. This has been happening intermittently as well as sometimes the instrument failure. I first took the van in to a Dodge dealer who told me I needed a Transmission Control Module but that would be where they would start and it still might not be fixed. I said no thanks and took the car to Aamco who told me I did not need the TCM and referred me somewhere else for electric work. The new place told me I needed a power control module but they didn't want to repair it because they said they had problems with parts from Chrysler. So I took it to Chrysler who ran diagnostics and got a bus message from the TCM and the body control module but said those were both okay. The disconnected all the connectors and put dielectric grease on all connectors. Gave me van back because problem seemed fixed, but I had it less than a half hour before the instrument failure occurred again. So now they are telling me it is the cluster but I don't know. Will post again if they correct the problem.

masterpaul1 · April 2005

Check your owners manual to see if all of these features are connected to the same fuse. If so, the fuse might need replacing. :shades:

rubberduck · April 2005

Thanks for everyones response the fuses are ok,it started out to be intermittent it wouldn't work on start up but down the road a ways it would start. Then it seemed if the van was driving down the road and there was a slight bump it would start to work again until you stopped and turned the key off. After shutting it off sometimes it would work again on start up and sometimes not. Now it hasn't worked for about 2 months. Can't find a good wiring schematic to see where it all connects.

Thanks

chubb2i · April 2005

I am original owner of van with 290,000 miles. Very well maintained, and except for known transmission problems, never left me stranded. I have the Dodge service book.
Current problem: Intermitantly, when engine is warm (at least 5 miles driven), engine stutters, and may quit, but may recover after stuttering for 5-15 seconds and run fine for another 5 minutes or 2 days. Some days no problem at all. No engine trouble codes are generated. Except for tach jumping, I see no other symptoms. (all lights maintain brightness, etc.) With 2 exceptions, I can cure problem by turning ignition off and restarting engine. Problem may occur when at stop light, or on interstate at 70 MPH. When acting up, I have verified fuel pressure at 50PSI, so not a fuel pump problem. I have used an inline spark tester, and problem corresponds to erratic spark. I have replaced plugs & wires with new, and TPS, Idle air controller, coil, wiring harness, and computer with others from junk yard, with no change. I have had it to a service shop, where OBD computer was hooked up within 10 minutes of it just about not restarting (2 exceptions above) and nothing looked out of specs and it ran 45 minutes without a hic-cup.
Problem is similar to that of shelleybabee from Oct 27, 2003, but I do not see the resolution to that post.
Any input would be appreciated.

hayneldan · April 2005

Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?

chuckg · April 2005

If the vehicle bucks and stalls and then starts right up, check/replace your crankshaft position sensor. It's located on the top/side of your bell housing. Also check your camshaft position sensor.

I would guess it's one of those two. Start with the crankshaft. It's not uncommon for them to go bad on Chrysler's.

chubb2i · April 2005

Throttle body is clean. I have kept up with that maintenance.

I replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and will see what happens there. I have not (yet?) replaced crank position sensor. In reading the service book, the cam position sensor seemed to control spark more so than crank sensor.

I had a previous problem (unrelated to this one) where it was hard to start, but once running, did fine. I found a trouble code that the temperature sensor was bad, and replaced that, and the hard start problem was gone. I suspect maybe similar situation here, where a seemingly unrelated component is going bad, and causes the computer to give a weak or no signal to the coil bank and cause stuttering. But I am guessing.
Thanks for input.

Any way to contact shelleybabee from older post, and find her(?) resolution?

Sylvia · April 2005

shelleybabee has their email marked private and has not been in the Forums for quite some time (years).

chuckg · April 2005

chubb- Let us know how you make out.

caravandal · April 2005

I have replaced the same resistor pack on my 2001 Caravan twice. It went out this morning again! I took an old (bad) one and looked at the thermal fuse (metal bodied part looks like a capacitor) to get the rating. For the record, The OEM part ID for the thermal fuse is MICROTEMP KKJAFW G4A15 TP 128c. I researched Microtemp on the web and noticed that the part is no longer listed on Microtemp's website (if you can call it that). The G4 series is apparently discontinued or just not listed. It is supposed to be rated 10 amps, but I think it's more like 4 amps. If 4 amps is indeed the rating, then it is borderline for a 12v DC motor. The inductive load at turn on is probably what is blowing the thermal fuse. DO NOT DESPAIR! I found a replacement thermal fuse at Radio Shack (of all places). The R/S Part Number is 270-1322 and cost is $1.49 US. It has the same 128 Degree Centigrade rating as the original. The Microtemp Part Number(s) is MNMABM G4A00 TF 128c (R/S Specification says it's 10 amps). I was able to remove the steel shield from the assembly to get to the thermal fuse (use a permanent marker to reference the shield, plastic body, and PC board so re-assembly won't be confusing). Snip the original leads just past the bends away from the fuse body. Place the new fuse (with leads bent to fit in place). Then solder in place. BE SURE TO USE A HEAT SINK BETWEEN THE SOLDER POINT AND THE FUSE BODY! I used 2 alligator clips from R/S PN 270-0346 pack of 10 $ 2.79 US, to heat sink and hold in position while I soldered one side, then the other. Before I re-assembled, I used an ohm meter to verify fuse continuity. After I assembled the resistor pack, I re-installed on the Caravan, and viola it works! I now have several spare assemblies (that I have repaired), and can replace if it happens again. If you aren't very good at soldering, you might be able to find someone that can do this for you (for a few beers Ha Ha). Keep the old assemblies so that you can repair them for future replacements. Total cost for repair was $ 7.26 US. That was for 3 thermal fuses and the bag of 10 alligator clips. Much better than $ 13 US for replacement assembly! Good luck, and I hope you get you fan problem sorted out!! Caravandal.... Suwanee Georgia USA.

jeffw1 · April 2005

4/25/2005 My Grand Caravan just started ringing for low fuel on a full tank last week. I have checked fuses but no problems there. Making appointment soon.

vanman10 · April 2005

Since the end of winter and the start of spring my 2000 Caravan has been running rough. This happens in the mornings and once the engine warms up it runs smooth. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil change, timing belt (replaced last summer), tune -up (done last summer). I've also added good quality injector cleaner to a full tank of gas. And still it runs rough and sometimes a little back fire occurs. None of my check engine lights come on. Has anyone experienced this problem.

hayneldan · April 2005

Have you cleaned the throttle body? :confuse:

vanman10 · April 2005

Hi hayneldan.

What and where is the throttle body.

hayneldan · April 2005

If you have a 6 cyl van the throttle body is at the other end of the air cleaner hose atop the engine. unscrew the clamp holding the large black hose nearest the top of the engine. Remove the hose, and you will see a silver throttle body. With the van not running, move the linkage from the gas pedal, or have someone in the van step on the gas pedal. You should see a round valve larger than a silver dollar that opens and closes as the gas pedal is depressed. If it looks dirty around this throttle body or the ports (holes) just behind the valve look clogged or dirty, it needs to be cleaned. Buy some throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner) that will not damage emission controls. Read the instructions carefully and follow the directions on the throttle body cleaner. This cleaning will make the van run smoother at idle and stop stalling if it is dirty. Good Luck.

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