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Acura Legend

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  • jweavjweav Posts: 4
    thank you very much for reading my messege. i have pondered the waterpump being my problem, but again i am thinking it is something else. i talked w/ a guy yesterday and he said something about a heat sending unit that goes to my electric fan... do you know if this unit was mal funcioning if my fan would still come on but not when my car is over heating? also i got to thinking, and the only time my car overheats is after driving the highway and then coming back into town... and it will not over heat when i sit and let it idle...if my waterpump was going out you would think the car would over heat everytime i started it...yes i am going crazy troubleshooting this problem... any input is very appreciated and thanks again for the reply.
  • jweavjweav Posts: 4
    denisem.....my car is a 95 legend w/ 160000 miles. my car is doing the same as yours. i also have replaced all of these things and checked all of these things. if you ask me we might want to drive our cars off a cliff :) just kidding :) anyways, my front fans are also not comming on, so i decided to replace the temp. sensor, well that didnt fix the problem, my fans still will not come on... it seems every time i think i know what the problem is, something happens to prove that theory wrong! i dont have an answer for your problem, but i really do feel for you. it seems the troubleshooting for this problem is enough to drive a person crazy! if you have figured out what is or was wrong w/ your acura legend, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!! i would appreciate it very much.
  • blazablaza Posts: 1
    ok here i go ,
    i bought a 1989 acura legend coupe 2.7 v6. one owner garaged kept.
    all service was up to date except the t-belt was due.

    so i got my mechanic to replace t-belt, w-pump, valve cover & side cvr gskts.
    cost me $512.50.
    when i left the shop i noticed a vibration in steering wheel and the dash.starts about 35 mph and smooths out about 60 mph.
    did not have this problem before so i took the car back. the mechanic looked the car over and started it up ,put it in gear and power braked it in drive and reverse.

    he said that the frt & rear mounts were worn and needed to be replaced.he said they were causing the drive axle to bind. he also balanced the frt tires to be sure
    it wasent them.

    my question is- i know that the right front mount/strut/ has to be removed to access the t-belt frt. cover. and according to my manual it says that if any mounts are to be replaced the bolts on all mounts should be loosend for the engine to sit level.
    and they are to be retightened in a specific order. if not it can cause a vibration.
    the car does not vibrate in park or nuetral , it does vibrate worse on hills.

    is it possible that a bolt could have been left out of compressor or ps pump or atl brkt.or one of the sprockets miss aligned that the t-belt goes around,

    also the t-belt tensioner was ok so they did not replace it,

    so do they have to remove all gears and or sprockets to remove belt ,or just the waterpump.

    any way after reading your forum i ordered a new all metal radiator because of overheating problems with the plastic tanks.

    thanks for your reply, blaza
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    A leaking waterpump is going to cause your coolant to run low and your car to overheat all the time, regardless of highway runs in between or not. However, the pump will obviously leak more if you are on the higway, leave you low on coolant, and cause an overheat situation real fast. A failed waterpump can leave your coolant level the same but still give you an overheating problem.

    As for the sending unit, since you said you were losing coolant I would worry about that. Having the fans not come on at the right time is one thing, but it doesn't account for coolant loss. Having these constant overheats puts you in very real danger of causing some expensive headgasket damage, especially with these engines. Try to track down that coolant loss!

    good luck
  • jafo45jafo45 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a '94 GS sedan with 104,000. Service receipts show head gaskets and new radiator at 84,000. Timing belt and water pump at 92,000. I am becoming concerned as I see so many posts regarding blown head gaskets. I'm wondering what precautions, preventive maintenance, driving habits etc might I observe so as too avoid having to deal with this problem in the future ?
    By the way I love this car and pretty much everything about it. :confuse: I would hope to keep it for some time. Thanks MV
  • brainsellbrainsell Posts: 1
    I just bought my 91 legend from my younger brother , It needed a lot of work I replaced alot of things on the car along with my friend who is the head mechanic at a dealership around here. We found a lot of power when we cleaned the egr pipe it was packed solid with carbon. but I keep the a/c off because the compressor itself robs a lot of hp then again the weather here in ny is a little cooler, Also change the fuel filter that could also be restricting fuel flow.
  • leng05leng05 Posts: 2
    I bought a 1994 legent L last week. it is 89k miles, obviously , the t-belt needs replaced. I plan to replaced by myself, does anybody has the experience and give me some advices? and does the transmission needs flash at 90k? I check the tranny oil is very good.
  • ok, my head gasket has been replaced and my deadlegend is being put back together, i went by the shop to check up on things, and they where getting ready to put in the same plastic OEM radiator after i'd told them i want metal. they say they cant find one(i doubt they looked) and it's on me now to find one. can anybody point me to a gooooooood metal radiator for my 95 legend? please! any suggestions are very appreciated. :mad:
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    No offense meant but if you have a computer and access to google, you should be able to find damn near anything. I just typed "metal radiator acura legend" into google and up came a whole bunch of stuff, with the first or second hit being decent alternatives. If they can't find it, then they are idiots. If they didn't look, at least they are just liars.

    http://www.webradiator.com/autoparts/ACURA/LEGEND.html

    Good luck, hope your legend can get back on the road in good shape
  • legendarylegendary Posts: 1
    1. I also own a 1987 Legend with 177,000 miles which had these same problems.
    I had a chronic gas leak problem at about 125,000 until the car was undrivable.
    The root cause is a manufacturing defect in the fuel injectors, according to a friend who works for an Acura dealer.
    The solution is to replace ALL of the fuel injectors as each will leak eventually.
    The fuel injector problem affects the ignition system causing the car to run rich
    which damages the oxygen sensors over time.
    I recommend ordering Bosch oxygen sensors for this car for $50 over the web and have them installed, front & rear. They have a 50,000 mile lifespan.
    If you do this, the car will run like new. I expect another 50,000 miles and 3 years out of this vehicle.
  • qujaqerqujaqer Posts: 3
    You wouldn't be talking about the steering wheel tilt and telescope controls would you? You can adjust it manuallt or set it to adjust automatically when you insert the ignition key. It's way cool!

    Gary B.
    '94 GS sedan
  • asum2000asum2000 Posts: 2
    the pump is located under the black plastic cover of the timing belt;also, there is a sensor at the bottom of the radiator by the outlet hose.
  • asum2000asum2000 Posts: 2
    ? do the fans come on at all? do they come on with the A/C? there is a senors at the bottom of the radiator by the outlet hose. go to this web site Delray automotive parts and this site will give picture/ location of every part.
  • What makes my 1992 Acura Legend L Coupe release heat and smoke from the reservoir?

    image

    Hi everyone, my name is Alex and I own 1992 Acura Legend L Coupe. At 160k I had timing belt and water pump replaced. At 192k I had radiator and thermostat replaced. On 05-10-05 my transmission stopped working, so I had the transmission replaced as well.

    Finally here is my car problem. When I picked it up, after the transmission was replaced, the mechanic told me that he had to add antifreeze to my reservoir, because it was low. So, I thanked him and left. With the new transmission it drove super nice, later in the evening I decided to drive to my girlfriend who is 109 miles away, as I drove for 20 min non-stop I noticed that my temp gauge is getting hotter and hotter till it started to rise all the way to the red line, so I pulled over to see what is wrong with the car.

    When I came to complete stop, I observer smoke coming out from the left front side, between left fender and left side of the hood. I opened the hood and I saw that there was smoke coming out of the reservoir, so I decide to open the reservoir to let the pressure & heat out. At this point I called my friend who is a mechanic and he did not know what is wrong, so he told me that my thermostat is not opening. I purchased a new thermostat from Acura dealership, after the thermostat was replaced, I noticed that nothing changed, after I drove the car it would still have smoke coming out of the reservoir.

    Only difference now is that, before I changed the thermostat, I would have heat periodically on and off, sometimes when the temp gauge would go up it would not produce heat, because I believe it had air in the system.

    Before I changed the old thermostat, I would notice the needle rise to 75% of the gauge and the heat would disappear, so if I would give it gas or put it in neutral and give gas, then the temp gauge would lower and release heat as it should. With time I would have to do that again and again, because I was told I have air in the system, but I never knew how to get rid of it on this model. Every other car I would just open radiator cap and wait till it is all out and then close it, but it did not work on this Acura.

    Anyways, now I have this car parked and I don't know what to do, One person tells me its head gasket, the other tells me I need another thermostat, next one said it my water pump, well if you add everything together you will understand that there is a lot of money required to fix this, but I know that there is not one drop of oil or any liquid since the day I purchased this Acura.

    I do not know what to do, but hope some one can give me a professional explanation regarding this problem.

    At this point I feel like selling it, because there is no point of this super nice car if I can not drive it. I wish some one could tell me what is wrong, because I do not know. Every mechanic that claims they know what is wrong, they do not know anything. I am afraid to take it to Acura Dealer, because they will take every penny I have. They have done that to me before, so if you know how to fix this problem or what to do, please post it. I really need help.

    I am not cheap, but why spend money on parts that you do not need. If you can please help me, as off now I plan to sell this car, but if I will get it fixed then I will drive it.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Here is a page with some possible causes and how to go about checking them. It sounds like your coolant flow is either interrupted or leaking though. Leaving the radiator cap open and letting the engine run to bubble out all the air in the system should work to remove most (if not all) air in the system. Then it's just a matter of figuring out whether your car is leaking coolant to cause the overheat condition or simply not circulating it (check that water pump!).

    Good luck and let us know what happens.

    http://members.shaw.ca/autocheck/overheatingc&c.htm
  • Thank for the info, I really dont know what to do, but I have no choice except change the water pump and then all the belts.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Sure you have a choice, I would take it to another independent mechanic and have them check the water pump for proper operation. In addition, they should be looking for leaks in the cooling system while under pressure. This is not too difficult, they should be able to do most of it quite easily with a lift.

    good luck
  • Thanks for the update, but I think its only water pump, because it has a new radiator, a new thermostat, there are no leaks anywhere, the car is dry as sahara desert around the engine and under. On this note I wish I had a manual how to change the water pump and timing belt since I will have to remove it to change the water pump. Also I should change all other belts, but I do not have the manual how to adjust the timing or check the tension on every other belt. If you know where I can get the resourse for this please help me out.

    This will be my first time, I always wanted to try, i saw a mechanic do this work but I dont have the same tools and I do not have the manual which guides me step by step what to do.

    Tools I can always purchase, but I dont know where to purchase the right manual to use for this type of repair.

    Thanks for the info. :D
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Changing the timing belt is not something you want to try as your first repair attempt. It takes a few hours even for a skilled mechanic and is a real pain in the rear. That is one of the few procedures I pay to have done on my '90 Accord and the process is similar on the Legends I believe. Doing the water pump at the same time of the timing belt change is obviously a good idea since it is in the same area, as you know. Changing the other belts isn't a bad idea either since you are taking them off anyway.

    Helms Inc. prints true service manuals for most cars. These are the factory service manuals that show in depth repair info. But even for a timing belt change you could probably get away with going to a local auto parts store (Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc) and picking up a Haynes manual for your car. They should have step by step instructions with pictures for this procedure. I like Haynes over Chilton's guides as they seem to have a bit more detail for certain cars. The Helms guide will run you at least $50, whereas the Haynes one will set you back about $25 at worst. The Haynes is much easier to get though, since you can only get a Helms manual via the mail. I got mine used off ebay, but you can also order direct from the company I believe.

    good luck!
  • bobcatmanbobcatman Posts: 51
    Hello, I can point out a few thing to you. Find a good Acura/Honda garage who's worked on this type of car and describe the symptoms. Many guys who don't work on Legends are clueless on this type of car and it's known issues. 2nd, there is bleeder screw right by the upper S shape radiat. hose that's made for bleeding out air. You do this until there's no more bubbles coming out and air is purged out of your radiator which will cause the temp. guage to give a high reading and fluctuate.

    A DIY timing belt change is doable but a pain the butt since you'll need a large breaker bar to get the main bolt off which many car parts store can rent out. Change the t-belt tensioner also, CAM seal and the 3 acces. belts. The Helms manual is the best and most detailed book for repair and well worth the cost. It's online I'm sure or ebay.

    Lastly, to check for a bad head gasket the exhaust will usually give off a whitish smoke and smell of coolant on start up. I'll bet you just have air in the system. In Google type in Acura Legend forums and you'll find the most detailed one with many members who have all the answers in the 1st query.
  • canrus01canrus01 Posts: 1
    I have ’91 Acura Legend L. I have replaced the powered antenna. But when I connect the powered connector to the antenna, the antenna rises. When I turn on the radio, the antenna slides in, when I turn it off, the antenna slides out. Who knows how to fix it?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Looks like you switched a connection somewhere, double-check those power connections!
  • mrmath2umrmath2u Posts: 2
    I just bought a black '90 Legend LS coupe w/ 130k for $2k. It recently had the timing belt/alternator/electrical system/tires/brakes/battery It needs some rust removed and a paint job, but I thought it was a great buy for the price.

    The one thing that bothered me was the trans - it was rough from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th, clunked, and shuddered and clunked at highway speed. I read the pro & cons about power flushing on this board and decided to go with the flush, as well as adding Slick 50 (high mileage).

    95% of all the tranny behaviors have gone. Change your fluid before you judge the state of the trans.

    I love this car.
  • lavndr036lavndr036 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1990 Acura Legend. I was wondering if anyone has done a full or partial synthetic oil change and if so where the results good? The car has high miles, 179,000 and want to put the best oil product in when I get it changed.
    Thanks
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    When you replace the antenna with an after-market unit, you must connect the red and green (or other color) wires to the proper OEM connections on the original antenna plug. ...and keep the black (ground) wire separate. Make sure the antenna mast is in the "down" position before you send power to the antenna. If you use a direct 12v power source, you can test the function by connecting the red and green wires together as the + connection, and using the black wire as the - connection. One colored wire connected will raise the antenna ....the other will lower it. There is an internal relay in the antenna to switch the connection once the antenna is up or down ...this "intelligence" is not provided by the radio. Hope that helps.
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    My 89 Legend has 365k kilometres on the original engine. I put half that on myself over the past ten years ...I've always used the recommended 5w30 oil, but a few months ago switched to the German-made Castrol Syntec 0w30. (Walmart carries it). I have noticed a significant improvement in smoothness and power. Other Acura/Honda users also speak highly of this particular oil. Of course, with the synthetic you'll pay more for the oil, but you can also leave it in longer ...so you should break even over the long run.
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    I think you could have gotten by with replacing only the small top 0-ring on each injector ($12 in parts). These are the first to go, and when they do, will result in minor gas leak at start-up ...along with gas smell from under the hood. If this does not solve the problem, then replacing the other seal rings on the injectors is still a viable option. My 89 Legend sedan with 365k kilometres is still running the original injectors ...I replaced the top 0-rings few months ago. I also did the 02 sensors about a year ago ..used the Bosch units as well. If you get a "check engine" light on hard acceleration, you need to replace the 02 sensors.
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    I think the cons outweigh the pros on the power-flush issue. You're much better off doing a simple fluid change (ALWAYS USE ONLY HONDA/ACURA ATF) ...than risking seal damage with a power flush. Sticky solenoids are a much more common problem in the G1 Legends ...and easier to remedy than the transmission itself. If transmission continues to act up ...you might check the tranny mounts. Sounds like you got a great car at a great price!!!
  • crb2k04crb2k04 Posts: 1
    Today, my Legend over heated. After getting the mess cleaned up and letting the car cool down, I began to inspect it. From what I could tell, there was not a leak anywhere. So I decided to check to see if the fans were working...I started the car and let it run for a while with the A/C on, and the fans never came on. I checked for blown fuses, and could not find any. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Possible a relay, loose wire connection, or bad fans altogether.

    Btw, I have had this car for almost a year now, and I love it. Besides for minor problems (expected for a car with 200k + miles on it), it is very dependable. Thanks.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Check out the Synthetic Oil and Engine Oil discussions as well. There is a line of thought that says it's risky to change to synthetic oil for the first time in an older engine.
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