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A while later I replaced the battery. When I cranked it for the first time with the new battery, the radio lights came on for half a second, but then it blanked.
Any ideas on how I could fix this myself, or should I just buy a new radio?
I went with aftermarket unit a low end Pioneer radio/single CD, bought from and installed by the local big box electronics store. Total cost: about $109 for the radio and $100 for installation and parts.
It works great, the only downside is the buttons and controls are small and not very user friendly, and the display is not bright enough under some daylight conditions, but that is the case with most aftermarket units.
You could however have some other problem associated with power to the unit, but most likely it is in the radio itself.
Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed some light on this situation.
Problem is not continuous, comes and goes. Do not notice any roughness in engine or poor performance. Van drives great.
Some time ago, we replaced: Plugs, Plug Wires, Rotor Button and Rotor Cap. Did not fix problem.
Just took to shop and they checked compression, rechecked all of the above and possibly a few other simple things. Reset codes and drove. Code came back just prior to completion of readiness tests. However, it takes a while for the code to show-up.
The only thing consistent about this problem is that it seems to happen towards the end of the readiness tests. The last time code appeared only had Oxg Heater Test to complete. We had planned to reset and take to emissions after readiness tests and before code appears. Have tried several times now and it seems to repeat.
The shop said that they thought that it is an injector with an intermittent challenge. Took home for the weekend and decided to replace injector in Cyl. #2 myself to speed up process. Problem still there.
Thanks for any ideas or other information.
I had logged the freeze data about a year ago and also a couple times today.
It appears that the misfire detection occurs at 6 mph. I have four data points two from a year ago and two from today. All four froze the data at 6 mph. I think this is significant. Also, the other data tells me that the vehicle is slowing down, i.e. the in-Hg is about 10 and engine speed is about 700 rpm. I ran a test and sure enough at 6 mph at a constant speed or slowing down, rpm is about 700-800 rpm. If accelerating, engine speed is about 1800 at 6 mph.
However, the calculated load is about 25%+. So this does not add-up. The load says that the vehicle is accelerating and the other data says that it is slowing down.
I have the same Airbag light problem. Mine is 1997 Dodge Caravan. Is there recall form that? Would this also cause "Service Engine Soon" light also? "Service Engine Soon" light came first and then Airbag light latter intermittant and goes away by istself.
Two other questions:
1) Is it dangerous to drive like this? Will Airbag go off for no reason? Would airbag work when it is needed?
2) If it is not covered by recall, is it difficult/expensive to fix?
Thank you,
I decided not to spend money on it and, happily, it did work during a recent road trip. But, with a 2001, you may just want to replace yours. Good luck!
When the ignition is switched off the radio continues to play (like it should). When the driver door is opened the radio and clock display are switched off (again, like they should). When returning to the vehicle and switching ON the ignition the radio and clock remain OFF (that's the problem). Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will return the clock and radio to operation - but only temporarily.
This problem is coincident with needing a new battery.
I have checked the accessory relay by switching it with another known good relay without success.
The problem appears to be related to the open-door curoff. Thus far I have not found any information on how this works.
Any suggestions?
Shut off the car, and make sure no accessory circuits are on (ie the radio is off, door lights are off, and also that any door switches are properly adjusted etc.) Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, and then reconnect.
I hope this works for you. It did for my friend. If it doesn't, please post back too.
I have exactly the same problem with my 95 Dodge Grand Voyager. It's been in top the dealer three times to try and resolve and they can't find anything wrong. Eventually the transmission acted like the clutch was slipping when under load i.e. lots of revving with little or no forward motion and a bad burning smell. I sent it into a little transmission shop and he has had the unit apart several times but not able to fix it. He is replacing the unit with a secondhand one. Hopefully that will resolve our problem. BTW I bought the Dodge in Kansas but it now resides in the UK (120k miles later )!
Has anyone gotten anywhere with the instrument panel failure? I have a 98 Grand Voyager. This problem has been going on for 2+ years now. Initially it was very intermittent. Everything would go dead for a few minutes then come back. Over time the period of non functioning has become longer and longer. At one point they were out for 3 months, then came back for a few weeks. Only to go out again. This is very frustrating. I've read the stories of others going to dealers for new body control modules etc and paying over $400 with no resolution to the problem. Here's what I've tried so far:
1. Checked and reseated every fuse and relay in the vehicle
2. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes in hopes of ressetting the BCM. Checked/cleaned all battery connections.
3. Reseated all electrical harnesses under the dash.
4. Tried to find the BCM ground which I read somewhere was located on the passenger side B pillar - couldn't find anything that looked like a ground
Some other interesting details:
1. I definetly lose some engine power/performance when the gauges go out - it's not huge, put don't have the same kind of passing power as when the gauges are working. Very noticeable when trying to pass uphill at highway speeds.
2. Check engine light always comes on when problem starts but then goes off after driving for 10-20 minutes
3. Cruise control still works (minus the dashboard indicator light) normally when the dash goes out.
4. Low fuel audible "ding" still sounds (minus he dashboard indicator light) when the dash is out.
5. Intermittent wipers function somewhat intermittently when the dash is out. They'll swipe a few times, then I have to adjust the timing knob to get them to swipe again.
6. Red LED indicators for A/C, rear wiper, and fresh air bypass flash a constant and consistent on/off with no pattern for about ten minutes when the van is started without the guages working. I had read that these lights can display trouble codes.
I've been trying to find a cause/solution to this problem for over 2 years now. I have yet to read of anyone with a solution - someone please help
Question: 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 mileage: 85000. I also have a problem with my 1994 Intrepid. The engine is a 3.5, with 85,000 miles. The gauges have been working on and off for about three months. The dealer's mechanics have not been able to find the problem as the car is in the shop for the third time. The problem seems to get worse over time. If I pull the battery cable, and replace after a couple hours, the problem will go away for a while. I have even seen the gauges pegged when started, and come to life after about ten seconds. They have replaced the module on the trans, and think it may be another. At about $160/parts per try, I am getting desperate. The problem will occur when the car is cold or hot, sometimes the ignition has to be turned on and off for over twenty cycles before the gauges will work. The air bag light will also come on whether the gauges work or not.
Answer: Without seeing your car, it is impossible for us to help you here. Intermittent electrical problems are the most difficult to find. Your gauges have circuit boards with hundreds of solder joints. If there is just one joint that has moved and cracked the solder, it could cause the problem you described. In addition, an improper ground connection anywhere in the system could be the culprit. We wish we could help you more.
Follow-up: Well, the dealer's mechanic finally found the gauge problem. It was a wire in the ignition harness. At least that was what they told me. The ignition and wiring was replaced, +$400 and the car is running great. It took them a while but they found it. Hope this helps others out there, I feel this problem is very wide spread. Thanks 2CARPROS
To answer your question, it sounds like you may have a failing torque converter or your transmission has slipped and your plates are glazed. Niether one would show typically until the oil viscosity has thinned out to a minimum. If you have paid a service fee and they found nothing, they should be willing to do the second for free if still existing. I would hold them to that.
The greatest lesson I've learned is to get away from typical ATF. No more "special ATF 4" or anything else. Chrystler is not addressing the problems with their products so you have to arm yourself. Go to a good durable synthetic like AMSOIL. It exceeds your warranty and it will double your life. A regular fill is about $50-70 and the flush will probably run you a couple hundred but compared to a $2500 rebuild it is gravy. Typical ATF starts it's break down around 240 degrees. AMSOIL and like products start around 440 degrees.This ensures the molecular thickness is sufficient all the way back to the pan dramatically reducing friction, heat and ultimately wear.
Also, Chrystler is serious about re-torquing the bands every 30, 000 miles. The first time it slips, you are on your way to transmission failure. If you do your own work, one band adjustment is outside the unit, one is inside the unit. If you run AMSOIL, just filter the oil before re-use. Oil never wears out it just becomes too contaminated to do it's job. I would advise all chrystler owners to get a plug kit to install in pan and to use gaskets with rubber impregnated cork (usually found at NAPA). These tips will help you keep a happy van.
I just checked our 1998 GC, and there isn't a spot of rust on either strut tower, inside the engine compartment or underneath in the wheel well. Is there something I'm missing? I'm thinking that if this is a universal problem, our van if any would have it since it began its life in the winter road salt region of northern New Jersey, and now spends its days in southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts.
Best Regards,
Shipo
My 99 has only a few specks of rust at that point, no more than the few others showing up after 6 years in upstate NY.
Until this morning.
Today I started the vehicle and "yahoo" the radio worked (after sitting overnight). But.....I stopped for gas after about a ~25 minute drive. Afterwards the radio and clock would not function.
1. Based upon the Intrepid solution, I would remove the cladding that surrounds the steering column and check for any pinched or bare wires. I have done this before on my '94 New Yorker and it wasn't difficult at all. I didn't need any special tools and I didn't need to remove the steering wheel to get at it. Just take your time and be careful. While in there, I would also replace the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery cable before doing this.
Also, you may want to try banging with your hand on the steering column and moving your adjustable steering wheel up and down. Maybe that will loosen something up.
I had a bad ignition switch on my New Yorker. It did all sorts of strange things to the car. I was told that Chrysler has problems with their ignition switches. Don't know if this is true but the new switch fixed my problems. I had a mechanic track this down, but if it happened again I'd do it myself.
2. I've read posts on this board that people who had electrical problems solved them by replacing the battery. How old is your battery?
Make sure you post back what you did and your solution. This helps everyone reading this board.
I have a 96 Grand Caravan and I am experiencing the same problem. Please advise the solution to this problem. What was the cost? I was wandering if a person could just disconnect the wire (which one? what color) from the sensor, however you would still have the indicating light on instrument panel, however the dinging would go away.
It is driving my wife up the wall.
Thanks,
HuggyBear2
I would try something like this: Go to your local hardware store, and buy several of the largest size fender washers that will fit through the round opening. Then buy a hex bolt threaded all the way to the head, and a hex nut, and assemble the washers to the bolt and tighten the nut. Put the head and washers through the hole, and grab the end of the bolt with a large vise grips pliers, offseting the bolt from the hole center line and pull toward you. You may be able to pull the metal back flush with the frame for a portion of the hole. Move around the circle and do this repeatedly and you probably will be able to bend it back into place. When you put the new rubber bumper back in, use some clear silicone caulk in the rubber bumper groove to hold it in place better. I lost one of these bumpers on our Caravan for no known reason, and when I replaced it, I did this caulk job so I would not lose the replacement. The hole was not deformed on mine, however.
Then stop feeding your kids and wife spinach so they lose some of that strength!
-----An engineer who likes to improvise and save a few bucks wherever possible!
I have a 96 Grand Caravan and experiencing the same problem. Please advise on your fix.
My wife would appreciate it
Thanks,
HuggyBear2
Thanks,
Dealer said the heater/ac needs to be recalibrated "on the computer" for $65.
What a rip off!
Lights stopped flashing in 5 minutes,but they will probably re-flash after new start up.
Dodge shouda made an EEPROM for the settings instaead of a cmos "power down and forget" system. Groan I can't believe they engineered a rip off scheme into the car! :lemon:
If you still remember what the dealer did to fix your windshield wiper problem, I would appreciate knowing as my dealer's techs are stymied. Thanks.
My advice, find a new dealer.
Did you hear any knocking/pounding?
Was there any smoke issuing from under the hood?
Did you smell any burnt smells?
How much oil was left in the pan?
Did the temperature gauge go all of the way to the right?
What year and displacement of engine does your van have?
Having asked all of those questions, if you add oil, and it restarts and is reasonably quiet/knock free, you might have dodged a bullet. So, if it does run reasonably well, the only other thing I would do is to have the compression tested to see if you destroyed the cylinder walls or stuck a valve.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Here is just a small sample:
There is a Technical Service Bulletin issued by Chrysler on Oct. 14,2002 (TSB 23-044-02) on the problem and it covers all minivans build from 1996 until 2000. If you were lucky enough to see it before your warranty ran out it would have been covered. What Chrysler told me was keep the reciept for the repair, if there is ever a recall in the future it would be paid for. Of course there will be no recall unless enough people complain to the National Highway Safety Transportation Agency.
NHSTHA can be found at www.nhtsa.dot.gov. I filed a complaint, you can find it under complaint number 10090457. It's easy and I'd ask everyone with this problem to issue a complaint and tell others who own 1996-2000 Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge mini vans to look for the problem and issue a complaint as well.
The parts number are 05080008-AA and 0580009-AA. The price is 27,65 CAD each. I have been lucky to find them. My dealer had one left side in stock and he found the right side for me at another dealer. They are back order everywhere.
If you want to do the job the way they want you to do it, you will have to buy also a set of aluminium rivets (I don't know how much) and a kind of glue they sell for 70,00$.
I did not use the glue nor the rivets. I used bolts instead. 5/16" by 3/4" long with washers. 6 bolts each side plus 4 self tapping #14 x 1" screws for the side wall.
Need to remove the wipers arms, the cover under the wipers arms, and the pan containing the wiper motor (sorry, I don't know the names of these parts.) I think you dont need to remove the hood as I did.
If you want to do a good job, you should get the strut assembly out of the way. Maybe removing them.
Me, I just lowered them as much as possible by removing the 3 nuts and raising the car.
My job is just a quik fix for an already almost dead car. My 96 voyager has 316000 Km and many other things are falling apart. The motor and the transmission are going. If he run another year, I will be happy.
Took me about 4 or 5 hours to do the job. No more that 2 or 3 if I had to do it again.
If you want to keep your car more than one year, I suggest that you make a better job than this one, removing the strut assembly, using the glue and rivets and putting a lot of rust protection.
There is no instruction available and it is not really needed. The dealer told me that this problem is affecting 1996 to 2000 Caravan and Voyager.